Last Updated: May 2026
After 30-plus hours of travel — California to London to Johannesburg to the bush airstrip at Skukuza — we made the short drive through the South African bush and arrived at Lion Sands Narina Lodge in Kruger National Park. We sat down for lunch and watched an elephant walk by. After all those hours in the air, it was the perfect welcome to Africa.
Lion Sands Narina Lodge
Lion Sands Narina Lodge is located inside Kruger National Park, in the Sabi Sand Game Reserve along the Sabie River — and it is exceptional. We were in lodge #2, which sits tucked away in complete privacy with a private plunge pool, a large open-air patio, an enormous claw-foot bathtub, and both indoor and outdoor showers. The king bed was pillow-top, draped in mosquito netting, and looking out through floor-to-ceiling glass into the bush. Baboons on the roof became routine.
The main lodge has a wine cellar stocked with an excellent South African selection, a full bar, and every comfortable corner you could ask for. The food was extraordinary — think flame-grilled impala filet in a red wine reduction, paired with a Pinotage from Stellenbosch for lunch. We would go back without hesitation.
The Safari
The wake-up call came at 5:00 am. Fifteen minutes later, staff escorted us through the dark to the main lodge — it was cold, and we were reminded that predators are active at that hour. Coffee, tea, juice, and muffins were waiting. By 5:30, we were loaded onto the open Land Rover with our guide Simon and tracker Isaac, wrapped in jackets, hats, and a blanket provided by the lodge. What followed each morning and evening was extraordinary.
One thing that surprised us about Kruger: the animals are largely habituated to vehicles. The Land Rover is neutral to them. This gives you an intimacy you simply can’t get at more remote, less-traveled reserves — you can be feet away from a lion and it will barely glance at you. (When we traveled to Botswana afterward, the animals were noticeably wilder and shyer, which had its own magic. But for sheer closeness, Kruger is unmatched.)
Warthog
Warthogs were around but not easy to photograph — they were usually moving quickly, tails straight up, or disappearing into the brush just as we found them. We managed a few decent shots, but they kept us working for it.
Lion
At sunrise we came across a lone young male lion. He walked directly toward the Land Rover — no hesitation, no alarm — passed within a few feet of my lens, and kept going as though we weren’t there. One of those moments you don’t quite believe while it’s happening.
Spotted Hyenas
Not far from the lion we found a clan of spotted hyenas. They are more impressive in person than their reputation suggests — heavily built animals weighing around 130 pounds, with that unmistakable sloping hindquarters, and jaws capable of crushing bone. They are highly social and surprisingly effective hunters, not simply scavengers. Simon told us they watch the sky for circling vultures to help them locate kills, and that there is no love lost between lions and hyenas — if the two meet, the interaction is never peaceful.
White Rhino
Some animals showed no concern whatsoever for the vehicles. This white rhino grazed and walked calmly between the Land Rovers as though we were fence posts. We spotted our honeymooning fellow lodge guests in the background, sharing the same stunned expressions we had.
Greater Kudu
The greater kudu is a magnificent antelope — bulls weigh between 420 and 600 pounds, and the females between 260 and 460. The males carry extraordinary spiraling horns that can reach up to three full turns by the time they are six years old. We saw them in small groups, usually in the thicker bush.
Leopards
Leopards were my favorite, and Kruger delivered them daily. Some were distant or draped high in acacia trees, partially hidden. But several gave us long, open views — a couple of times on or near a kill. They are stunning animals: fluid, unhurried, and utterly indifferent to the vehicles watching them. Most of these images were shot at focal lengths between 300mm and 500mm.
Elephants
Elephants were a near-constant presence. Huge herds moved back and forth between the bush and the Sabie River throughout the day. We never tired of watching them — whether it was a lone bull browsing at close range or an entire family herd arriving at the water in the early morning light.
Giraffe
We saw giraffes occasionally — they tended to appear, watch us with calm curiosity for a few moments, then move off with that unhurried, rolling stride. Even when you’ve seen them in zoos, seeing them in the wild at full height against the African sky is something else entirely.
Hippopotamus
The Sabie River held a good number of hippos, and Simon took us close to the water’s edge for a better look — while making clear we should keep our distance. Hippos are among Africa’s most dangerous animals, far more aggressive than their placid, semi-submerged appearance suggests. From the Land Rover we watched them surface, grunt, and jostle in the shallows.
Lion with Cubs
The single most dramatic sighting of the trip: a female lion with her two cubs and a fresh impala kill. She was feeding when a large herd of elephants came through, heading to the Sabie River. The elephants paid her no special attention — but their sheer number and mass pushed her and the cubs back from the kill until they had passed. Then she returned. We watched the whole thing from the Land Rover without breathing.
Zebra
We only saw a few zebra and wildebeest — Simon explained that May is not the peak season for them at Kruger; the larger herds move through at different times of year. Still, even a handful of zebra against the dry-season grass made for good photographs.
Birds
Simon and Isaac were focused primarily on the Big Five — lion, leopard, rhino, elephant, and Cape buffalo — but they made a point of identifying and discussing every animal, bird, snake, and plant we encountered. The birdlife alone was extraordinary. Bateleur eagles, hornbills working termite mounds, white-backed vultures circling above a kill, ground hornbills stalking through the grass. A whole ecosystem visible at once.
Sundowners & Evenings
At the end of each afternoon safari, Simon and Isaac would find a beautiful open spot and pull over. Drinks were produced from a cool box in the back of the Land Rover, and we’d sit in the open air watching the African sunset with the bush going quiet around us. It was the perfect transition between the intensity of the drive and the evening ahead.
Back at the lodge, the evenings were just as indulgent. A hot bath by candlelight with champagne and chocolates, the sounds of the bush coming in through open windows, then dinner served outdoors under the African sky with the distant calls of whatever was moving out there in the dark.
The Staff
Everyone we met at Lion Sands was genuine, warm, and deeply knowledgeable. We had long conversations with staff members about their lives in Kruger — their families, their hobbies, what it means to live and work in such a remote, wild place. There was a real love for the park in every conversation, which made the whole experience feel less like a resort stay and more like an invitation into someone’s home territory.
Visitor Information
Location: Lion Sands Narina Lodge is situated within the Sabi Sand Game Reserve, which shares an unfenced border with Kruger National Park in Mpumalanga, South Africa. The Sabi Sand is considered one of the finest game-viewing areas on the continent.
Getting There: We flew into O.R. Tambo International Airport in Johannesburg, then took a short connecting flight to Skukuza Airport inside Kruger. From there it was a brief drive through the reserve to the lodge. Skukuza is the most convenient bush airport for the Sabi Sand lodges.
Website: lionsands.com
Practical Tips
Health — Malaria: The Sabi Sand and greater Kruger area is a malaria zone. Antimalarial medication is strongly recommended. Consult the CDC’s South Africa travel page for current recommendations before your trip, as these can change.
Health — Vaccinations: Check the CDC for current vaccination recommendations for South Africa. Routine vaccinations should be up to date. Hepatitis A and typhoid are commonly recommended for travel to sub-Saharan Africa.
Best Time to Visit: The dry season — roughly May through September — is widely considered the best time for game viewing. Vegetation is thinner, water sources concentrate animals, and cooler temperatures make early morning drives more comfortable. We visited in May and conditions were excellent.
Clothing: Early morning game drives are cold, particularly in the dry season. Bring warm layers — a fleece or light down jacket, hat, and gloves. The lodge provides blankets on the vehicle but it can still be genuinely cold at 5:30 am. Afternoons warm up considerably.
Photography: A 200–500mm telephoto lens is essential for bird and predator photography from the vehicle. A monopod or beanbag rested on the vehicle door significantly improves stability. Bring plenty of memory cards — you will take more shots than you expect. If thinking about changing a lens in the vehicle, don’t because of dust. Its better to bring two camera bodies.
Currency: The South African rand (ZAR) is the local currency. Most lodge costs will be settled in advance or billed to your room; it is worth bringing some rand for tips, which the staff genuinely appreciate.
