Last Updated: May 2026
Cape Town was our base for the entire Africa trip — we flew in through Johannesburg, used the city as our hub between the safari legs, and flew home from here. It is one of the most beautiful cities we have ever visited. The setting alone is extraordinary: Table Mountain rising over the city, the Atlantic on one side and False Bay on the other, and miles of dramatic coastline stretching in both directions.
More Quarters
We stayed at More Quarters, a boutique hotel in the heart of Cape Town’s De Waterkant neighborhood. We had a one-bedroom luxury apartment with a full kitchen, dining area, good wifi, cable TV, and a bathroom with both a soaking tub and a separate shower. The location is excellent — everything reachable on foot, by car, or by Uber.
The staff were exceptional in the way that genuinely attentive hospitality is exceptional — they noticed things. When we had to leave before breakfast service started, they had a packed breakfast and coffee waiting at the front desk without us having to remind anyone. Parking in central Cape Town is difficult, but the staff managed our car, moving it to a closer spot in the evening when spaces opened up. 24-hour security throughout. There is a shuttle service available, though we had a rental car. One memorable moment: at turndown the staff tuck a hot water bottle under the sheet to warm the bed on chilly evenings. Sandy found hers unexpectedly and let the entire floor know about it.
Boulders Beach
About 30 miles south of Cape Town near Simon’s Town, Boulders Beach is home to a thriving colony of African penguins — and it is worth every minute of the drive. We went early to avoid traffic heading the other direction and arrived easily. The public beach alongside the colony has free access, but the penguins are mostly on the managed section; we paid the entrance fee, which was modest, and it was completely worth it.
A well-maintained wooden boardwalk winds through the nesting areas and down to the beach. The penguins are completely habituated to visitors — they waddle across the path, nestle under the boardwalk, and ignore you entirely while they go about their business. Photography is easy and rewarding. It was genuinely crowded when we visited; go as early as possible. There are bathrooms at the entrance, a small gift shop, and adequate parking, with a few tourist stalls outside the lot.
Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve
The Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve — part of Table Mountain National Park — was a highlight of the entire trip. The drive through the reserve is spectacular on its own: fynbos-covered hillsides tumbling to the sea, ostriches wandering alongside the road, and the light changing constantly over the ocean. Allow a full day.
Cape Point — Old Lighthouse
At the tip of the peninsula, the parking area sits below the old lighthouse perched high on the cliffs. You can hike the steep staircase to the top — strenuous but absolutely worth it — or ride the Flying Dutchman Funicular if you’d rather save your legs. We hiked up.
The old lighthouse is no longer in service — it sits too high above sea level for ships to see its beam through the mist and bad weather that often envelops the point. A lower, newer lighthouse was built further down the cliff and handles the actual navigational work. From the old lighthouse on a clear day the views are dizzying: sheer cliffs dropping hundreds of feet to the ocean on both sides, rugged rocks below, and the horizon in every direction. We also learned something here: Cape Point is not where the Atlantic Ocean meets the Indian Ocean. That distinction belongs to Cape Agulhas, about 100 miles to the east — the true southernmost tip of Africa.
Back at the parking area, a baboon had claimed the gift shop roof and was watching proceedings with complete authority. The gift shop staff seemed entirely accustomed to this.
We had lunch at the Two Oceans Restaurant just below the parking area. Despite the crowds — this place fills up with tour buses — the service was attentive and the food was genuinely good. The views of False Bay from the restaurant are sweeping and beautiful.
Cape of Good Hope
A short drive from Cape Point brings you to the Cape of Good Hope itself — the dramatic rocky headland at the southwestern tip of the peninsula. There are hiking trails, information boards about the history of the cape and the sailors who rounded it, and a rocky beach that is genuinely spectacular. We spent time just sitting on the rocks watching the waves and the birds. It is one of those places that feels significant — historically, geographically, and visually.
Chapman’s Peak Drive
On the drive back north toward Cape Town we passed the current working lighthouse below Cape Point, then took Chapman’s Peak Drive toward Hout Bay. It is one of the great coastal drives in the world — a road blasted into the sheer face of a mountain, winding above the Atlantic with nothing but cliff above and a long drop below. It is nearly impossible to keep your eyes on the road. Go slowly and stop often.
Victoria & Alfred Waterfront
We visited the V&A Waterfront one evening. It is an impressive development — a working harbor surrounded by restaurants, shops, a large mall, and sweeping views of Table Mountain. We chose to have dinner and get an early start the next morning rather than fully explore it, so we can’t offer a thorough review. But the atmosphere on a clear evening, with the mountain lit behind the city and the harbor full of boats, was genuinely beautiful. It is worth at least an evening stroll and dinner.
Visitor Information
Getting There: Cape Town International Airport (CPT) is served by direct flights from several European hubs and by connections through Johannesburg (O.R. Tambo) from elsewhere. Most international visitors connect through Jo’burg. The airport is about 30 minutes from the city center by car or taxi.
Getting Around: A rental car gives you the most flexibility for the Cape Peninsula — Boulders Beach, Cape Point, and Chapman’s Peak are all much easier with your own transport. Uber works well within the city and to/from the waterfront. For the Winelands, a car is essentially required.
Practical Tips
Best Time to Visit: Cape Town’s peak season is the Southern Hemisphere summer (December–February), which brings warm weather and long days but also large crowds and higher prices. We visited in May — early autumn — and found it uncrowded, pleasantly cool, and visually striking with the fynbos still green. Spring (September–November) is also excellent.
Baboons: The Cape Peninsula baboon population is large, habituated, and genuinely bold. Keep car windows closed when parked near Cape Point. Do not feed them or leave food visible in your vehicle. They will get into an unlocked car without hesitation.
Cape Point timing: Tour buses arrive mid-morning and the site gets very crowded by late morning. Go early — gates open at 7 am — and you’ll have the trail to the old lighthouse nearly to yourself.
Boulders Beach timing: Similarly, arrive early. By mid-morning in peak season the boardwalk becomes very congested. The penguins are most active in the cooler morning hours in any case.
Currency: South African rand (ZAR). Cape Town is reasonably priced by international standards — excellent restaurants, activities, and accommodation are all good value. Credit cards are widely accepted.
Safety: Cape Town is a wonderful city, but like any major city it has areas and situations that require common sense. Stick to well-traveled areas after dark, use Uber rather than hailing cabs off the street, and keep valuables out of sight in your car. The tourist areas — Waterfront, De Waterkant, the Winelands, and the Cape Peninsula — are generally very safe and well-patrolled.
