Last Updated: May 2026
On our way to Gettysburg we stopped in Harpers Ferry, West Virginia — a small town of about 300 people that changed hands eight times during the Civil War and never fully recovered. We paired it with a day trip into Frederick, Maryland, where we stumbled into one of the most unexpectedly gripping museum experiences of our trip.
Harpers Ferry KOA
One of the least scenic campgrounds we stayed at. No trees or bushes between the pads — and while we were there they cut down the few that existed. We arrived on a Thursday when the park was a quarter full; by Friday night it was completely packed. Wifi was fine until it filled up, then it became nonexistent. Water pressure and pedestal power were great. A kid was driving a large remote-control car around the RV area and Jake went absolutely nuts watching it — he couldn’t figure out what it was but desperately wanted to chase it. The best thing about this KOA is that the National Historical Park is literally next door.
Frederick, Maryland
Driving to Frederick, we crossed through three states in under two minutes — West Virginia, Virginia, and Maryland — and over two rivers, the Potomac and the Shenandoah. Frederick had a UPS store to mail one of Michael’s Nikon lenses for repair, plus good shopping. Chestnut trees were in bloom. We had a nice lunch overlooking the river.
National Museum of Civil War Medicine
This is a painting of the first operation performed under ether — a small tumor removed from a patient’s jaw. By the time of the Civil War in 1861, ether and chloroform had already been in use for general anesthesia. Chloroform was non-flammable (ether was highly flammable) but both caused severe nausea and were hard on the liver. During the Civil War, these inhalation anesthetics became indispensable and were used in over 95% of surgeries — most of which were amputations.
Unfortunately, there was a very fine line between adequate anesthesia and death.
Three out of four operations were amputations.
The mortality rate varied by the location of the amputation. It doubled after 48 hours post-injury due to infection — so earlier amputation was always better than waiting. Antibiotics, blood transfusions, sterile operating rooms, electrocautery, and modern wound care didn’t exist, on the battlefield or anywhere else. For abdominal or chest wounds, the only treatment was morphine, water, and hope.
Of the 620,000 soldiers who died in the Civil War, two-thirds died from disease — typhoid, malaria, diarrhea, dysentery, pneumonia, appendicitis, erysipelas. Even though there were age restrictions and physical examinations for recruits (over 300 women enlisted without anyone detecting them), many soldiers brought STDs, poor dentition, and other conditions with them. One lasting benefit of the war was medical advancement: the ambulance and triage system were created, hospital wards improved, prosthetics advanced, and surgical technique made significant strides.
Handling the dead presented its own challenges. If the family wanted the body returned, embalming was performed and billed to the family. The fluid was typically injected through an artery and could include arsenic, bichloride of mercury, zinc chloride, creosote, turpentine, and a red dye to restore natural coloration. Michael being a physician and anesthesiologist enjoyed the museum.
Harpers Ferry National Historical Park
The Harpers Ferry National Historical Park spans West Virginia, Virginia, and Maryland. Many of the original buildings have been restored and it’s a pleasure to walk the streets reading about the town’s history. It was once a thriving industrial community. The town changed hands eight times during the Civil War, and the combined toll of war and repeated flooding meant it never recovered.
The Appalachian Trail Conservancy is headquartered here — we saw plenty of through-hikers with fully loaded packs. St. Peter’s Roman Catholic Church sits high on the hillside with stunning views of the river valley. There are places to stay, a couple of boutiques, and a few restaurants.
John Brown
Called an abolitionist who believed in the violent overthrow of slavery, Brown led a small group of men to seize the federal Armory and Arsenal at Harpers Ferry on October 16, 1859, intending to arm a slave rebellion. They captured workers at the Armory and cut the telegraph wires — but critically, they let a train leave town. Brown hoped to trigger a massive uprising; instead, locals trapped his group inside the Armory building and the train crew promptly alerted the military. General Robert E. Lee arrived two days later and captured Brown. He was tried, convicted, and hanged. Many historians believe the raid hastened the Civil War’s inevitability.
Thomas Jefferson
Jefferson passed through Harpers Ferry in 1783, viewed the Potomac from a large rock, and described the site as “perhaps one of the most stupendous scenes in nature.” We had to see for ourselves. He would have passed out if he’d seen the Grand Canyon.
Visitor Information
Harpers Ferry National Historical Park charges an entrance fee; the America the Beautiful annual pass covers it. The lower town historic district is walkable and free once inside. Parking is at the visitor center — shuttle buses run to the historic district during peak season. The National Museum of Civil War Medicine in Frederick, MD charges a modest admission and is one of the most underrated museums on the East Coast. It’s small but completely absorbing — budget two hours minimum.
Practical Tips
Harpers Ferry is at the confluence of the Potomac and Shenandoah Rivers — the views are excellent from Jefferson Rock, which requires a short but steep climb. The town gets crowded on weekends; a Thursday or Friday arrival gives you the historic district nearly to yourself. Frederick, Maryland is about 25 miles east and makes an easy day trip — the Civil War Medicine museum alone is worth the drive. If you’re building a Civil War history itinerary, pairing Harpers Ferry, Frederick, and Gettysburg over three to four days covers the major themes exceptionally well.
