Last Updated: July 2017
After our San Diego interlude, I rejoined Sandy on the East Coast and crossed the border from Vermont into Canada without any drama. The border agent asked about weapons, our occupations, and the length of our stay — nothing about food, wine, medications, or Jake’s rabies certificate. We may have under-packed the wine.
Old Québec City
Old Québec is one of those places that exceeds its reputation. The European charm is real — cobblestone streets, stone fortifications, flower-lined plazas, street musicians, sidewalk cafés, and elevation changes that keep revealing new views. The city of over 530,000 sits at Cape Diamond, where the Saint Lawrence River narrows sharply; the word Kebec in an early Indigenous language means precisely that: where the river narrows. Samuel de Champlain founded the settlement in 1608, making it one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in North America.
The fortified stone ramparts encircling the old city are the only remaining city walls north of Mexico City in the Americas — a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a living piece of military history. Québec is also the undisputed cradle of francophone culture in North America. Nearly everyone speaks French first, but most speak English as well; a simple s’il vous plaît parlez-vous anglais reliably produced a smile and a warm conversation.
The city’s history is layered with conflict. The Anglo-French War (1627–1629) was fought partly over control of Québec. During the four French and Indian Wars (1689–1763), the city served as headquarters for raids against New England settlements and was ultimately captured by the British in 1759 at the Battle of the Plains of Abraham. The Act of Union of 1840 merged Upper and Lower Canada into the Province of Canada, though the country remained a British colony until the Statute of Westminster in 1931, and didn’t achieve full independence from the United Kingdom until the Canada Act of 1982.
We loved the murals dispersed throughout the city, the flowers overflowing from every window box and plaza, and the street musicians and jugglers performing in the squares. It felt genuinely alive in a way that tourist-heavy old cities don’t always manage. We took a guided walking tour departing from the Visitor Center — informative and a fast way to get oriented — and Jake was, extremely well-behaved.
Our tour guide shared a memorable detail: at one point in Québec’s history, property taxes were assessed by the number of windows in a building. The practical response from some homeowners was to simply brick them up — which explains a few of the oddly windowless facades you still see today.
Outdoor lunch was wonderful — dogs are welcome at many of the sidewalk cafés — and Sandy had a salmon and spinach crêpe that she’s still talking about.
Only in Québec: a woman was ill on the sidewalk while her friend stood beside her, calmly eating ice cream and watching the world go by.
Parc de la Chute-Montmorency
A short drive from the city, Parc de la Chute-Montmorency is home to one of the most impressive waterfalls in eastern Canada. Named in honor of the Duc de Montmorency, viceroy of New France and admiral of both France and Britain, the falls drop 272 feet — notably taller than Niagara, though narrower. Parking is available at both the top and the bottom. A cable car makes the ascent easy (and dog-friendly), but if you’re inclined toward a wet stair climb, the views on the way up are exceptional. We rode the cable car with Jake and had a meal at the restaurant at the summit.
A suspension bridge traverses the gorge just above the falls — Jake was transfixed by the zipliners shooting past below. The zipline runs directly in front of the falls and is very affordable; it’s one of the better adventure experiences we’ve come across at a natural attraction.
Tall Ships Rendezvous Québec 2017
Our timing turned out to be exceptional. Québec City was hosting the Tall Ships Rendezvous 2017, a major international sailing event organized to celebrate the 150th anniversary of Canadian Confederation. Visitors could board dozens of magnificent tall ships from nations around the world while hundreds of their crew competed in seamanship challenges. The St. Lawrence waterfront was transformed.
After Québec City the Rendezvous 2017 fleet moved on to Halifax before racing back across the Atlantic for a finale event in Le Havre, France. Canadians, it turns out, have a great sense of humor — the signage, crew banter, and general atmosphere around the event made for one of the most entertaining afternoons of the trip.
There was so much to take in. A week in Québec City would barely scratch the surface.
Boys will be boys.
Visitor Information
Old Québec City (Vieux-Québec) is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Québec City Tourism Visitor Center offers guided walking tours and is the best starting point for first-time visitors. The old city is compact and walkable; most major sites are within the fortified walls. Parc de la Chute-Montmorency is located about 10 km northeast of the city center — easy by car or bus. The cable car, zipline, suspension bridge, and restaurant all operate seasonally; check sepaq.com for current hours and pricing. The Tall Ships Rendezvous is an occasional event tied to major anniversaries — watch for future editions.
Practical Tips
Most businesses and restaurants in Old Québec operate primarily in French; English is widely spoken but making the effort with a few French phrases goes a long way. Dogs are welcome on most terrasses (sidewalk patios) — just ask. The cable car at Montmorency Falls is dog-friendly and worth taking at least one way; the staircase descent gives a different and excellent perspective on the falls. Parking inside Old Québec is limited and expensive; the lots just outside the walls are more practical. For the border crossing from the US, Canadians do not require proof of pet vaccination for dogs, but carry documentation anyway.
