Last Updated: July 2017
From Québec City we turned east, following the Saint Lawrence River toward the tip of the Gaspé Peninsula — one of the most scenic drives in eastern Canada. The peninsula juts into the Gulf of Saint Lawrence for nearly 200 miles, with the river on one side and the mountains of the Chic-Chocs on the other. It took us several days to reach the far end, with stops along the way that ranged from a campground disaster to some of the best hiking we found all summer.
Saint Lawrence River
The Saint Lawrence is the primary drainage outflow for the entire Great Lakes Basin, carrying water from Lake Ontario northeast through Québec to the Gulf of Saint Lawrence. It begins as freshwater but becomes progressively saltier as it widens toward the gulf — by the time you’re driving the Gaspé coast, you’re effectively looking at a sea. The Norse may have been in this region as early as the 11th century. John Cabot explored the Gulf of Saint Lawrence for England in the late 1400s. The river’s European history accelerated in 1535 when French explorer Jacques Cartier, searching for a northwest passage to Asia, found his route blocked by the Lachine Rapids southwest of Montréal. He’d arrived on the feast day of Saint Lawrence and named the gulf accordingly.
Saint-Fabian
We only planned one night here en route to the eastern peninsula, and it turned into one of the more stressful evenings of the trip. GPS led us astray finding the municipal campground, and when we finally arrived, the entry road had severely overhanging branches. While maneuvering into the site, our front tires sank about a foot into soft ground between two pads — we were resting on the front axle, which is as bad as it sounds. After digging out around the tires, three nearby campers showed up with firewood to shim under the wheels and help us drive out. We nearly called a tow truck.
Once we’d relocated to a site with working 30-amp service, we thanked our rescuers with a few six-packs of craft beer — they were in town for a Bryan Adams concert in nearby Rimouski. After two hours of chaos, we finally relaxed with wine and one functioning AC unit. We’d wanted to hike at Parc National du Bic, which sits right in this area, but ran out of time. Worth adding to your itinerary if you’re passing through.
Mont-Louis
The drive from Saint-Fabian to Mont-Louis was spectacular — the Saint Lawrence to the north, rolling farmland to the south, and a succession of small towns strung along the riverside highway. It’s the kind of scenery that keeps you pulling over.
Along the way we passed through Sainte-Flavie, an artsy community where a remarkable installation emerges from the Saint Lawrence at low tide. The sculptures appear to be cast from driftwood originals — figures rising from the river, ghostly and slightly morbid, with a raw, crude quality that makes them oddly compelling. They feel like they belong to the water.
Mont-Louis itself was first settled by 12 families in 1697, originally prized as one of the best locations on the Saint Lawrence for cod fishing. Summers are pleasant but short; winters are long and brutally cold. Sandy found beach glass along the rocky shore and Jake discovered he very much enjoyed the water.
We stayed at Parc et Mer Mont-Louis — 50-amp, water, and sewer with good ocean views and a large, level gravel pad. The campground had cut down all the surrounding pine trees to improve satellite reception and expand the pad areas; not particularly attractive or private, but the ocean views and perfect levelness made it very practical. The uncrowded rock beach was a bonus.
Parc National de la Gaspésie
From Mont-Louis we made a day trip inland to Parc National de la Gaspésie to hike toward Mont Jacques-Cartier, the highest peak in southern Québec. The park occupies the Chic-Choc Mountains — a northern extension of the Appalachians — and is one of the few places in eastern Canada where caribou and woodland caribou still survive at lower elevations. The trail was well-maintained and the scenery was excellent, though the number of other hikers that day likely kept the moose and caribou at a distance. We didn’t spot any, but the landscape more than compensated.
Gaspé
We stayed at Camping Griffon — the owner greeted us by immediately assessing whether we’d fit under a low-hanging branch at the site entrance, decided we wouldn’t, and cheerfully cut it down. We were apparently the tallest RV they’d hosted. The tradeoff was worth it: the trees provided excellent wind protection (the previous open campground in Mont-Louis had made sitting outside nearly impossible), and the site had 30-amp service, good water pressure, free wifi, and reasonable privacy between spots.
Leveling was a challenge — the pad sloped enough that we needed five inches of blocks under the front jacks, which lifted the wheels off the ground. Our Jeep weighs around 3,000 lbs; the RV front axle supports 17,000. It’s a bit like balancing five Jeeps stacked on wooden blocks. The campground has beach access via steep stairs, and the beach itself was uncrowded and lovely. One notable quirk of this latitude: the sun starts rising at 3:30 AM. Crazy, but beautiful.
Québec, it turns out, takes a more relaxed approach to public restroom privacy than we’re used to in the States — no doors, just pick a side. One step closer to the unisex bathroom future.
The lighthouse near town is still operational. We had lunch at a nearby restaurant surrounded by sculptures — the Gaspé area seems to produce a disproportionate number of talented artists, and driftwood is clearly the medium of choice along this coast.
Forillon National Park
Forillon National Park occupies the very tip of the Gaspé Peninsula — 94 square miles of forest, waterfalls, sea cliffs, salt marshes, sand dunes, and the eastern terminus of the Appalachian mountain chain. Created in 1970, the park preserves both the natural landscape and the remnants of the fishing communities that once lived here, with several restored buildings staffed by interpreters in period clothing from the height of the cod industry.
Beaver
The beaver is Canada’s national emblem for good reason — Jacques Cartier first traded for beaver pelts here in 1534, and the fur trade those pelts sparked drove European commercial interest in North America for the next two centuries. Beavers are the second largest rodent in the world (after the capybara), weighing 33–77 lbs and reaching up to four feet in length. Primarily nocturnal and semi-aquatic, they’re one of the few mammals that actively engineer their environment. We came across a large lodge in the park — in winter, outside temperatures can drop well below freezing while the inside stays in the low 50s°F. They don’t hibernate; they spend the winter under the ice, feeding from a cache of submerged branches. We also caught a glimpse of the back end of a black bear disappearing into the woods.
La Chute Waterfall
La Chute is a 55-foot waterfall tucked into the forest — an easy 0.6-mile hike from the trailhead and well worth the short walk. The water was absolutely freezing, which Jake confirmed by refusing to put a single paw in. The falls aren’t heavily promoted but are one of the quieter, more rewarding spots in the park.
Cap-Bon-Ami
Cap-Bon-Ami was the highlight of our time at Forillon — dramatic sea cliffs dropping to a cobble beach, with views north across the Gulf of Saint Lawrence that stretch to the horizon. The wooden staircase down to the beach is steep but manageable, and the beach itself rewards the effort.
Parc du Bourg de Pabos
Parc du Bourg de Pabos is an excellent park just south of Gaspé in the town of Pabos Mills, and a worthy final stop on the peninsula. Our site was enormous — easily large enough for two RVs. We hiked to a nearby river and fell in with a local from Québec who spends his summers here; he gave us an impromptu guided tour of the surrounding area. The park has extensive hiking trails, three beaches, beautiful coastline, and a few good bars and restaurants close by.
Visitor Information
The Gaspé Peninsula is a significant drive from Québec City — plan at least 4–5 days to do it properly. Parc National de la Gaspésie is accessible from Highway 299 inland from the coastal road; check sepaq.com for trail conditions and campsite reservations. Forillon National Park requires a Parks Canada day pass; details at pc.gc.ca. Camping Griffon in Gaspé town is RV-friendly with reservations recommended in summer. Parc du Bourg de Pabos in Pabos Mills is less well-known but excellent; lebourgdepabos.com has details. The Sainte-Flavie sculpture installation is free and roadside — impossible to miss driving east on Highway 132.
Practical Tips
Highway 132 follows the Saint Lawrence coast around the entire peninsula — it’s one of the great scenic drives in Canada. Allow time for spontaneous stops; the small fishing villages are worth exploring. Dogs are welcome on most Forillon trails but check current regulations at the park entrance. Cap-Bon-Ami is best in morning light; arrive early to have the beach to yourself. The municipal campground in Saint-Fabian is convenient but has soft ground near some pads — scout your site before pulling in. Gas stations thin out significantly past Mont-Louis heading east; fill up when you can.
