Last Updated: May 2026
Leaving Cape Breton we traveled south through New Glasgow and on to Peggy’s Cove — and from there worked our way along the southern and western shores of Nova Scotia through Halifax, Truro, and ultimately Spencer’s Island on the Bay of Fundy. This stretch delivered some of the trip’s most memorable experiences: a tidal bore raft ride, 36-foot tides, a ghost ship mystery, and the best seafood chowder of the summer.
A note on New Glasgow: the Cranberry Campground had over 80% seasonal occupants, undrinkable water (too saline — new well, per the owners), no usable Wi-Fi, and an absolutely relentless mosquito population. They hadn’t been sprayed in some time. Even in strong wind, wearing long sleeves and jeans with repellant applied, we were getting bitten right through the fabric. We relied heavily on the Executioner for those that made it inside. West Nile virus is present in Canada — only about 100 cases were reported in 2016, but still. Not our finest campground.
Peggy’s Cove
King Neptune Campground near Peggy’s Cove gave us one of the best ocean-view sites of the entire summer. We had 30-amp service, intermittent Wi-Fi, and a dump station only — but the view more than justified it. We watched seagulls, cormorants, and a seal from site 26.
Driving around Peggy’s Cove was stunning — picture-perfect around every corner. Unfortunately it rained for part of our stay, which kept some of the tourist buses away at least. Peak season in Nova Scotia means Peggy’s Cove arrives by the busload, but the scenery earns every visitor it gets.
The village itself doesn’t take long to walk — rustic, compact, a few places to eat. We had a fabulous seafood chowder at Rhubarb restaurant. Highly recommended.
Halifax
Halifax was established by the British in 1749 as both a military and commercial counterweight to the French-occupied Louisbourg in Cape Breton. The global Seven Years’ War broke out between France and England in 1756, but the North American conflict — the French and Indian War — had already begun in 1754. The Treaty of Paris in 1763 ended French colonial presence in the region, laying the foundation for the modern country of Canada.
Maritime Museum of the Atlantic
The Maritime Museum of the Atlantic is genuinely worth the time. The collection spans small boats, an extraordinary range of maritime artifacts, and beautifully crafted model ships. The Titanic and Halifax Explosion exhibits are particularly well done — Nova Scotia was directly involved in the recovery of Titanic victims, and the connection between Halifax and that disaster runs deep.
The Halifax Explosion
On December 6, 1917, the French munitions ship Mont-Blanc, loaded with explosives, collided with the Norwegian vessel Imo in Halifax Harbour. The resulting explosion was the largest man-made blast the world had seen to that point — approximately 2,000 people were killed and more than 9,000 injured. Over 900 eye injuries occurred, many resulting in blindness, due to people watching the initial fire through their windows when the blast wave hit. This quilt was made to commemorate the event.
Many from the Boston medical community came to aid the injured. In gratitude — a tradition that endures to this day — Nova Scotia sends Boston a Christmas tree each year.
Piracy
Piracy was considered so serious a crime that the punishment went beyond execution — it was ritualistic. A special Admiralty Court tried and executed pirates, and after hanging on the beach between high and low tide, the bodies were tarred and displayed in iron chains called a “gibbet” at the harbour entrance, as a warning to other mariners.
Theodore Tugboat
Theodore Tugboat was a Canadian children’s television series that began in 1989, inspired by the Halifax waterfront. The show follows Theodore and his floating friends in The Big Harbour, where every vessel has its own personality and role in the community. The actual tugboat is moored at the Halifax waterfront.
Truro
Truro is the geographic hub of Nova Scotia — centrally located and used by us primarily as a base for exploring the Shubenacadie Tidal Bore and as a midpoint to our next destination. We stayed at Scotia Pines Campground: 50-amp, water, and sewer, but no view, barely usable internet (someone fixed it as we were pulling out after four days — naturally), and too many trees for Dish satellite.
Shubenacadie River Runners — Tidal Bore Rafting
We were lucky to snag spots with River Runners on a sunny day with a very high tide — ideal conditions. Despite the attractive wetsuit, we got absolutely soaked. What an incredible experience.
The Shubenacadie River starts as a low, muddy, slow-moving river with sandbars and mud islands — almost inert. Then you hear it coming. The tidal bore arrives as a 2–3-foot wave pushing upriver from the Bay of Fundy, and as that inflowing water covers the sandbars, turbulent rapids form all around you. Within three hours, the tide had risen over 40 feet and the same rapids had completely disappeared, the river now a calm inland sea.
Victoria Park
Victoria Park is a 400-acre woodland park in the middle of Truro — a genuine surprise. Well-maintained trails, a brook running through with a couple of small waterfalls. A welcome contrast to the campground situation.
Spencer’s Island & the Bay of Fundy
Spencer’s Island drew us for one reason: the Bay of Fundy tides. The Bay of Fundy has the highest tidal range in the world, and Spencer’s Island sits right on it. We watched 36-foot tides come and go during our stay — the beach transforms completely twice a day. Spencer’s Island was also formerly one of Nova Scotia’s premier shipbuilding ports, with more than 30 vessels constructed on its cold, wind-exposed beach by skilled craftsmen of the Fundy Shore.
The most famous vessel ever built here was the Amazon, launched in 1861. After seven years on the trade routes she was sold, refitted, and renamed the Mary Celeste. On November 7, 1872, she set sail from New York under Captain Benjamin Briggs, bound for Genoa with a cargo of 1,700 barrels of pure alcohol. On board: the captain’s wife Sarah, their two-year-old daughter Sophia Matilda, and a crew of seven.
Twenty-seven days later the Mary Celeste was found drifting in the North Atlantic — undamaged, no signs of struggle or piracy, every personal effect in place. Coats on hooks, tobacco on the tables, loose change on the surfaces. Every person on board had vanished without a trace. A judicial hearing in Gibraltar raised accusations of murder, mutiny, and insurance fraud, but nothing could be proven. The captain, his family, and the entire crew were never seen again. The ship sailed on for another decade before wrecking off Haiti in 1885, plagued by a reputation that made finding willing crew nearly impossible.
The tidal photos below were taken at roughly one-hour increments — the transformation of the shoreline is remarkable.
Old Shipyard Beach Campground
Our site overlooked the Bay of Fundy directly. Fifty-amp service, 45-psi water pressure, and sewer — the pad was a bit muddy and not perfectly level, but large. Good Dish satellite reception. Internet was very slow but would eventually load a page.
Spencer’s Island Lighthouse stands adjacent to the property. Built in 1904 at a cost of $645.87 using day labour, the wooden tower stands 33 feet from base to ventilator. Decommissioned in 1987, acquired by the Spencer’s Island Community Association, opened to the public in 1991, and reactivated as a working light in 2006 with Coast Guard permission. Our summer guide Brittany knew the full history and shared it generously.
Bald eagles appeared on the beach every day — a reliable constant along the entire Bay of Fundy shoreline.
Cape d’Or Lighthouse
We drove out to Cape d’Or Lighthouse and the adjacent Cape Chignecto Provincial Park. The lighthouse was established in 1875 to warn mariners of the notorious tidal rips at this headland — now automated, with the old keeper’s house converted into a restaurant. The view from the cliff edge over the Bay of Fundy is dramatic.
Below the lighthouse, a driftwood beach stretched for what seemed like a mile — enormous bleached logs piled and sorted by the tides into a natural sculpture garden.
Wild Caraway Restaurant
Wild Caraway is an old home operating as both a two-room B&B and a restaurant — relaxed, friendly, and colourful. The seafood pasta at lunch was absolutely delicious. One of those off-the-beaten-path finds that makes the detour completely worthwhile.
Visitor Information
Peggy’s Cove is about 43 km southwest of Halifax on Route 333. Peak season (July–August) brings very large crowds — arrive early morning or late afternoon for better light and fewer people. The lighthouse is an active aid to navigation; the black zone on the rocks is strictly off-limits due to rogue wave risk.
Maritime Museum of the Atlantic is on the Halifax waterfront at 1675 Lower Water Street. Open year-round; entry fee applies. Allow 2–3 hours minimum. The Halifax Explosion exhibit alone is worth the visit.
Shubenacadie River Runners operates tidal bore raft tours from South Maitland, about 45 minutes from Truro. Tours run on incoming tides only; schedule changes daily. Book in advance — high-tide days fill quickly. Expect to get completely soaked regardless of the wetsuit.
Spencer’s Island is on the Bay of Fundy about 30 km west of Parrsboro. The Old Shipyard Beach Campground is rustic but the tidal views are unmatched. Cape d’Or Lighthouse and Wild Caraway Restaurant are about 20 km further west — a worthy half-day excursion.
Practical Tips
Bay of Fundy tides: Check tide tables before planning anything along this coast. The difference between high and low can exceed 40 feet — beaches that are fully submerged at high tide are vast mudflats at low. Jake loved exploring at low tide; keep dogs leashed near tidal bore areas as currents are powerful.
For RVers: King Neptune near Peggy’s Cove is ocean-view camping at its best — worth sacrificing full hookups for. Old Shipyard Beach at Spencer’s Island has 50-amp and sewer but is on the rustic side; level your rig carefully. Avoid Cranberry Campground in New Glasgow.
Mosquitoes: Along this stretch of Nova Scotia in late August they can be genuinely severe. Carry repellant, a screen for the RV door, and a good electric swatter. Coastal sites with sea breezes are noticeably better.
