Last Updated: May 2026
Leaving the warm embrace of family in Barton, Vermont, we pointed the Airstream south and west into the heart of upstate New York — a region we’d largely bypassed on previous road trips but had always meant to explore. What followed was one of the most packed and rewarding weeks of our entire 2017 New England circuit: digging for Herkimer diamonds along a rushing river, navigating the rolling vineyards of the Finger Lakes wine country, hiking through a gorge with nineteen waterfalls, and finally standing at the edge of one of the greatest natural wonders on earth.
Upstate New York surprised us at every turn. The landscape shifts dramatically as you move west — from the foothills of the Adirondacks to the long, glacier-carved lakes of the Finger Lakes region, and then north to the thundering spray of Niagara Falls on the Canadian border. If you’ve written off New York State as just a place you drive through to get somewhere else, this route will change your mind.
Herkimer Diamond Mines KOA
Our first stop was the Herkimer Diamond Mines KOA near Herkimer, New York, and it turned out to be one of the most scenic campgrounds of the entire trip. The sites sit right along a gentle river, and the sound of moving water is your constant companion. We had a 30-amp full-hookup site with a beautiful view, and the fall foliage was just beginning to peak — the maples and birches along the riverbank were blazing gold and amber.
The campground’s wildlife was something else. Canadian geese had claimed the riverbank in large, confident numbers — parading past campsites with the kind of entitled swagger that only a Canada goose can manage. Squirrels were equally bold, and Jake, our Labrador, was in absolute heaven. He spent every outdoor moment nose-down in the fallen leaves, tracking invisible creatures while we marveled at the color around us.
The star attraction, of course, is in the name: the Herkimer Diamond Mines. The area around Herkimer has been producing double-terminated quartz crystals since the 18th century, when they were first discovered by the Mohawk people. These natural quartz crystals are so brilliant and faceted that they earned the nickname “diamonds,” and while they’re not actually diamonds, they are genuinely beautiful. You can pay to dig for them yourself at several mines in the area — a surprisingly satisfying way to spend a morning.
Finger Lakes Wine Country
From Herkimer we made our way west to the Finger Lakes — eleven long, narrow lakes gouged out by glaciers during the last ice age, arranged like the fingers of an outstretched hand across central New York. The region is one of the most underrated wine destinations in the United States, producing world-class Rieslings and increasingly serious Cabernet Francs and Pinot Noirs in the cool-climate conditions that mirror parts of Germany and Alsace.
Waterloo Harbor Campground on Seneca Lake
We set up camp at the Waterloo Harbor Campground on the northern shore of Seneca Lake — the largest and deepest of the Finger Lakes — and it proved an excellent home base. The campground sits right on the water, and the views across the lake were stunning in the October light. Jake discovered that geese had a presence here as well, though the lake geese proved considerably more evasive than their KOA counterparts.
Winery Strategy: Pick One Lake and Do It Well
There are over 100 wineries in the Finger Lakes region, spread across multiple lakes. Our advice, hard-won after one ambitious morning of attempting the impossible: pick one lake and do it well. Each of the major lakes — Seneca, Cayuga, Keuka, and Canandaigua — has its own wine trail with a cluster of tasting rooms. Seneca Lake alone has over 30 wineries on its shores. Trying to cover multiple lakes in a single day means spending more time in the car than in the tasting room, which is exactly the wrong ratio.
We focused on Seneca Lake and had a wonderful time working our way down the eastern shore, stopping at wineries that caught our eye. Most tastings run $5–10 and are waived with a bottle purchase. The Rieslings here are the real deal — dry and semi-dry styles with that electric minerality you simply don’t find anywhere else in the country. We came away with several bottles that made the rest of the trip considerably more pleasant.
Watkins Glen State Park: Nineteen Waterfalls
At the southern tip of Seneca Lake sits Watkins Glen State Park, and it is an absolute must. The two-mile Gorge Trail winds through a narrow, sheer-walled canyon cut by Glen Creek over thousands of years, passing nineteen waterfalls along the way. Some of the falls cascade directly over the trail; in places, the path is carved right into the rock face with the waterfall tumbling a few feet away. It feels like a different world entirely — cool and mist-filled and ancient, the kind of place that makes you forget there’s a parking lot at the trailhead.
The gorge is not stroller or wheelchair accessible, but it’s manageable for most hikers — the trail is mostly stone steps and bridges, and the round trip is gentle enough for an afternoon outing. Sandy declared it one of the most beautiful walks of the entire trip. The fall foliage framing the gorge rim above us added a layer of color and drama that we couldn’t have planned if we’d tried.
Niagara Falls
From the Finger Lakes we drove north to Niagara Falls — a place we’d both been to in our youth but had never experienced together as adults. Niagara is one of those landmarks where you think familiarity will diminish the impact, and then you arrive and realize that photographs have been lying to you your entire life. The sheer volume of water — roughly 85,000 cubic feet per second going over the American and Horseshoe Falls combined — creates a roar and a spray that you feel in your chest long before you see the falls themselves.
A few quick facts worth knowing: Niagara Falls is not one waterfall but three — the American Falls, Bridal Veil Falls, and the Horseshoe Falls straddling the US-Canada border. The Horseshoe Falls carries roughly 90% of the water flow and is by far the most impressive. The falls have been eroding upstream at a rate of about one foot per year, though modern water diversion for power generation has slowed that considerably. And yes, people have gone over in barrels — roughly 20 people have attempted it since 1901, with about half surviving. We were content to watch from the shore.
Maid of the Mist
The Maid of the Mist boat tour is the essential Niagara experience, and it absolutely lives up to its reputation. The boats load from both the American and Canadian sides and motor directly into the spray at the base of the Horseshoe Falls. They hand you a blue poncho at the dock and you’ll need every inch of it — by the time you’re in the basin below the falls, the mist is blinding and the noise is overwhelming in the best possible way. You are genuinely inside the falls at that point, surrounded by churning white water on three sides. It’s one of those experiences where language falls short.
The Canadian Side: Better Views, No Question
If you have the option, cross into Ontario to see the falls from the Canadian side — the difference is significant. The American side puts you at falls-level on the rim, which is dramatic in its own right, but the Canadian side gives you a full panoramic view of the entire complex: both the American Falls and the sweeping arc of the Horseshoe. You can see the shape, the color of the water, and the true scale in a way that simply isn’t possible from the US side. It’s worth crossing the border just for this perspective, even if you only stay an hour.
Branches of Niagara Campground
We stayed at the Branches of Niagara Campground on Grand Island, New York, which sits in the Niagara River between the US mainland and the falls. It’s an excellent choice for the area — quiet, wooded sites, full hookups, and a manageable drive to both the American and Canadian sides. The campground is nicely laid out with plenty of trees for shade and privacy, and we had two peaceful nights despite the proximity to one of the most visited tourist destinations on the continent.
Beef on Weck: A Buffalo Classic Worth Seeking Out
While you’re in the Niagara and Buffalo area, you owe it to yourself to try a beef on weck. This is a western New York institution that deserves far wider recognition than it gets: thin-sliced roast beef piled high on a kummelweck roll — a soft Kaiser roll crusted with caraway seeds and coarse salt — served with horseradish and au jus for dipping. The salt and caraway on the roll is the secret; every bite has a savory crunch that turns a good roast beef sandwich into something genuinely memorable. Buffalo is more than chicken wings, and this sandwich is proof.
We found a solid version near the falls, though locals will correctly tell you that for the definitive beef on weck you need an old-school bar or deli in Buffalo proper. We’ve added that to the list for next time — and there will absolutely be a next time for this part of New York.
Visitor Information
Herkimer Diamond Mines KOA
The Herkimer Diamond Mines KOA (801 State Route 28, Herkimer, NY) sits along the West Canada Creek with full-hookup sites, a pool, and direct access to the adjacent Herkimer Diamond Mines attraction. The mines charge a separate admission fee for digging (typically $10–15/person). Dog-friendly with excellent river access. Full hookups with 30-amp and 50-amp available.
Waterloo Harbor Campground
Waterloo Harbor Campground (2170 State Route 414, Waterloo, NY) sits on the northern shore of Seneca Lake with waterfront sites and easy access to the Seneca Lake Wine Trail. Full hookups available. Centrally located for day trips to Watkins Glen (35 minutes south) and multiple wineries along both shores. Pet-friendly.
Watkins Glen State Park
Watkins Glen State Park (1009 N Franklin St, Watkins Glen, NY) charges a small parking fee. The Gorge Trail (2 miles one way) passes all 19 waterfalls. Arrive early in summer to avoid crowds; fall is the best time to visit for foliage and manageable visitor numbers. Note: dogs are not permitted on the Gorge Trail.
Niagara Falls & Maid of the Mist
The Maid of the Mist operates from both the US side (Niagara Falls State Park) and the Canadian side (Niagara Parks). Tickets run approximately $20–25/adult; ponchos provided. Boat tours run spring through fall — verify seasonal schedules before visiting. Crossing to the Canadian side requires a valid passport or NEXUS card; allow time for border wait at the Rainbow Bridge.
Branches of Niagara Campground
Branches of Niagara Campground & Resort (2659 Grand Island Blvd, Grand Island, NY) offers full-hookup wooded sites on Grand Island in the Niagara River. Approximately 15–20 minutes to both the American and Canadian sides of the falls. Pet-friendly, clean facilities, easy highway access.
Practical Tips
Finger Lakes wine strategy: Focus on one lake per visit — Seneca has the most wineries and greatest variety; Cayuga has the oldest wine trail in New York. Most tasting rooms are closed Mondays and Tuesdays in the off-season, so check hours before driving out.
Niagara in fall: October brings significantly smaller crowds than summer, and the surrounding parks look spectacular with fall color. Some boat tours operate on reduced schedules in October, so verify operating dates before planning your visit.
Crossing to Canada at Niagara: The Rainbow Bridge is the most convenient crossing but can back up 30–60 minutes on busy days. The Lewiston-Queenston Bridge to the north is typically faster. Have passports ready; NEXUS holders can use dedicated lanes.
Herkimer diamond mining: The adjacent gift shop sells crystals if you’d rather skip the digging, but the mining is genuinely fun — especially with kids. Bring gloves; the rock is hard and requires real hammering. Wear clothes you don’t mind getting dusty.
Beef on weck: For the definitive version, make the drive into Buffalo proper. Charlie the Butcher, Schwabl’s, and Bar-Bill Tavern are all widely cited as the best. The detour is worth it.
