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Traveling Huntleys

Inspiring travel stories, tips, and guides from a couple exploring the world one destination at a time.

Bluff, Utah: Valley of the Gods, Natural Bridges & Ancient Cliff Dwellings

April 26, 2018 by Michael Huntley

Last Updated: May 24, 2026

Bluff, Utah is a small historic town in the heart of southeast Utah’s canyon country, just an hour’s drive from Monument Valley and perfectly positioned as a base for exploring some of the region’s most spectacular and least-visited landscapes. Listed in 1,000 Places to See Before You Die, Bluff sits along the San Juan River at the doorstep of Bears Ears National Monument and puts you within easy reach of Valley of the Gods, Natural Bridges National Monument, Goosenecks State Park, ancient Anasazi cliff dwellings, and miles of open BLM rangeland. We arrived in our Newmar motorhome — and were immediately welcomed by the local open-range cattle who have no concept of traffic laws.

Herd of open-range cattle on the road in Valley of the Gods, Bluff, Utah

Valley of the Gods

Red rock butte and mesa rising above the valley floor, Valley of the Gods, Utah

Valley of the Gods is reached via a 17-mile unpaved loop road off Highway 261. The road is passable for most passenger vehicles in dry conditions, but no big rigs — it’s steep, has tight turns, and is bumpy in stretches. The valley is managed by the BLM as part of Bears Ears National Monument, and dispersed camping is allowed at no charge. There were a handful of campers spread across the valley when we visited, but it never felt crowded.

Tall sandstone rock formation rising from the desert floor, Valley of the Gods, Utah
Jeep on the four-wheel-drive gravel loop road, Valley of the Gods, Utah
Isolated sandstone tower and buttes, Valley of the Gods, southeast Utah
Red rock mesa and open rangeland, Valley of the Gods, Bears Ears National Monument

The rock formations are strikingly similar to Monument Valley — tall reddish-brown mesas, buttes, and towers that rise dramatically above the valley floor. The difference is the solitude. Valley of the Gods draws a fraction of the crowds, yet delivers scenery that is every bit as breathtaking.

Rock formations glowing amber at sunset, Valley of the Gods, Utah
Wide view of sandstone mesas and open sky, Valley of the Gods, Utah
Colorful red and orange sandstone towers at golden hour, Valley of the Gods, Utah

We went a second time at sunset, and the rocks turned deep amber and red — easily worth the return trip. Valley of the Gods lies within Bears Ears National Monument, which was restored to its full 1.36-million-acre size in 2021 and is now jointly managed by the BLM, the U.S. Forest Service, and the Bears Ears Commission representing five affiliated Tribes. Other than the roaming cattle, we didn’t spot any other wildlife.

Bluff, Utah

Vintage truck with Cottonwood Steakhouse sign, Bluff, Utah

Bluff, Utah is a small town listed in 1,000 Places to See Before You Die. With a population of just a few hundred people, it punches well above its weight as a base for southeast Utah exploration. We ate at the Cottonwood Steakhouse — a classic Western roadhouse with a casual atmosphere, friendly staff, and very good brisket and ribs. It’s exactly what you want after a day of hiking in the red rock.

Bluff Fort

Sandy Huntley standing inside a teepee at the recreated Bluff Fort, Bluff, Utah

Bluff Fort tells the story of one of the most remarkable pioneer journeys in American history. In 1880, seventy Mormon families answered a mission call to establish a settlement in southeast Utah. They spent six months cutting a wagon road through the wilderness, including a harrowing descent through the Hole-in-the-Rock — a 1,200-foot crack in a cliff above Lake Powell — before finally reaching the San Juan River and founding the town of Bluff.

Original pioneer bed on display at the recreated Bluff Fort, Bluff, Utah

The original Bluff Fort has been faithfully recreated on its historic site and is free to visit. The complex includes period homes furnished with authentic artifacts, a gift shop, and a film about the Hole-in-the-Rock Expedition. It’s a surprisingly moving experience — well done and undervisited.

Herd of open-range cattle blocking the road in Bluff, Utah

There were cows everywhere in Bluff. The area is open range, so even though barbed wire fences line the roads, cattle regularly wander across highways — sometimes appearing around blind corners. Jake, our dog, goes completely crazy over cows and spent most of the drive whining out the Jeep window.

Cottonwood RV Park

Newmar motorhome and Jeep toad parked at Cottonwood RV Park, Bluff, Utah

Cottonwood RV Park is well situated for exploring the area — centrally located in Bluff with views of the surrounding canyon walls. We had a large pull-through site with 50-amp service, 60 psi water pressure, sewer hookup, and decent internet. It wasn’t crowded during our stay, which made it easy to come and go for day trips.

Butler Wash Ruins

Ancestral Puebloan cliff dwellings at Butler Wash Ruins, Bluff, Utah

Butler Wash Ruins is one of the most accessible Ancestral Puebloan sites in the Bears Ears region. The trail is about a half-mile round trip with minimal elevation gain, ending at a viewpoint overlooking a well-preserved cliff dwelling built around AD 1200. The site includes kivas, storage rooms, and living quarters tucked under a deep sandstone overhang. Dogs are welcome on leash — which meant Jake got to come along.

Small natural arch and spring pool near Butler Wash Ruins, Bluff, Utah
Sandy Huntley on the trail at Butler Wash Ruins, Bluff, Utah

Just above the ruins, a small seasonal creek had carved a natural bridge through the sandstone — a bonus find on an already rewarding hike. Jake scaled every rock he could find on the way back. The trail is unmarked in places, so pay attention on the return.

Bright red Indian paintbrush wildflowers blooming along the Butler Wash trail, Bluff, Utah

Indian paintbrush wildflowers bloomed in vivid red and orange along the trail — a nice contrast to the buff-colored sandstone.

Sand Island Petroglyphs

Sand Island Petroglyph panel with Kokopelli and animal figures, San Juan River, Utah
Close-up of ancient Anasazi petroglyphs carved in sandstone, Sand Island, Utah
Wide section of the Sand Island Petroglyph panel showing multiple figures, Utah

The Sand Island Petroglyph Panel stretches along nearly 100 yards of sandstone cliff face just west of Bluff — one of the largest and most accessible rock art sites in the Four Corners region. The carvings were made by multiple cultures over thousands of years, including Archaic, Basketmaker, and Ancestral Puebloan peoples. Figures include Kokopelli, bighorn sheep, hunters, and abstract designs. It’s a free, easily walkable site managed by the BLM.

San Juan River at Sand Island BLM campsite, near Bluff, Utah

Sand Island is a BLM campsite on the San Juan River, just west of Bluff, and a popular put-in point for multi-day river trips through the canyon.

16 Room Cliff House

16 Room Cliff House Ancestral Puebloan ruin tucked into sandstone alcove, near Bluff, Utah

The 16 Room Cliff House is one of the lesser-known Ancestral Puebloan sites in the Bears Ears region — and one of the most rewarding to find. It sits in a shallow sandstone alcove above the San Juan River, its mud-and-stone rooms still largely intact after 800 years. There are no signs, no trail markers, and no rangers. Getting there requires some route-finding and a willingness to scramble, but the payoff is a site you may well have entirely to yourself.

Ancient painted handprints on the sandstone wall inside the 16 Room Cliff House, Bluff, Utah
Stone and mud rooms of the 16 Room Cliff House viewed from below, Bluff, Utah
Ancestral Puebloan masonry walls inside the 16 Room Cliff House alcove, Bluff, Utah
Interior rooms and doorways of the 16 Room Cliff House, near Bluff, Utah

One of the highlights is a section of painted handprints on the back wall of the alcove — a striking reminder of the people who lived here. Getting to the individual rooms requires scrambling up a couple of poorly defined paths, but most of the structure is visible from below.

Natural Bridges National Monument

Sipapu Bridge, the largest natural bridge in Utah, Natural Bridges National Monument

Natural Bridges National Monument was Utah’s first National Monument, designated in 1908. It protects three of the largest natural bridges in the world, all carved by the streams of White Canyon. The 9-mile scenic drive connects overlooks for all three bridges, and hiking trails descend into the canyon to reach each one up close. The monument is also one of the first International Dark Sky Parks in the world — stargazing here is exceptional.

Sipapu Bridge is the largest of the three — 220 feet tall with a span of 268 feet. Sipapu is a Hopi term meaning “the place of emergence,” the portal through which the Hopi people believe their ancestors entered this world.

Kachina Bridge spanning White Canyon, Natural Bridges National Monument, Utah

Natural bridges are formed by running water carving through canyon walls; arches are formed by seeping moisture and frost. Kachina Bridge is named after the petroglyphs and pictographs of dancing Kachina figures carved on its base by the Ancestral Puebloans.

Owachomo Bridge, the oldest and thinnest of the three bridges, Natural Bridges National Monument, Utah

Owachomo Bridge is the oldest and most delicate of the three — just 9 feet thick at its thinnest point. Its Hopi name means “rock mound,” a reference to the distinctive rock formation on top of the bridge.

Horse Collar Ruin, ancient cliff dwelling above White Canyon, Natural Bridges National Monument, Utah

The Horse Collar Ruin is an Ancestral Puebloan cliff dwelling named for the distinctive shape of its doorways. The area has been occupied since 7000 BC, and the ruin itself dates to around AD 1200. It’s visible from the canyon rim and accessible via a short hiking trail.

Goosenecks State Park

Aerial-like overlook of the entrenched meanders of the San Juan River, Goosenecks State Park, Utah

Goosenecks State Park offers one of the most dramatic geological views in the American Southwest. The San Juan River has spent millions of years carving a 1,000-foot-deep canyon through the Colorado Plateau, creating a series of tight switchbacks — entrenched meanders — where five miles of river covers just one mile of ground. The overlook is reached by a short paved road off Highway 316. The park charges a $5 per-vehicle day-use fee, and primitive first-come, first-served campsites are available for those who want to stay for the sunset or the stars.

Practical Tips for Visiting Bluff and Bears Ears Country

When to visit. Spring and fall are the most comfortable seasons in southeast Utah. March through May and September through October bring mild days, cool nights, and the soft, low light that makes the red rock glow — the same conditions that drew us here in April. Summer temperatures regularly climb into the upper 90s and beyond, and shade is scarce at the ruins and overlooks. Winter is quiet and can be strikingly beautiful, though the higher road into Natural Bridges occasionally closes for short periods after snow.

Getting around. Bluff sits at the junction of US-191 and US-163, an easy paved drive from Monument Valley, Blanding, or Cortez, Colorado. Many of the area’s best sites, however, lie down unpaved roads. The Valley of the Gods loop is a 17-mile dirt road that passenger cars can usually handle when dry but that turns slick and impassable when wet — and it is no place for a large RV. The nearby Moki Dugway, a set of steep gravel switchbacks on Highway 261, is spectacular but should be avoided by anyone towing or driving a big rig. A high-clearance vehicle is helpful for reaching backcountry sites such as the 16 Room Cliff House.

Fees and access. Several of the area’s highlights cost nothing to visit: Valley of the Gods, the Sand Island Petroglyph Panel, Butler Wash Ruins, and Bluff Fort are all free. Natural Bridges National Monument charges a $20 per-vehicle entrance fee good for seven days, with the America the Beautiful pass accepted and electronic payment now required. Goosenecks State Park charges a $5 per-vehicle day-use fee. Always check current conditions and seasonal closures with the BLM or the National Park Service before heading out.

Where to stay. We based ourselves at Cottonwood RV Park in the center of Bluff, which kept day trips short in every direction. Bluff also offers several lodges and inns for travelers without an RV. For a more rugged night, dispersed camping is free in Valley of the Gods, and both Sand Island and Goosenecks State Park have primitive campsites with unforgettable views.

Respect the ancient sites. The cliff dwellings, petroglyphs, and artifacts around Bluff are fragile and remain sacred to the region’s Indigenous peoples. Never climb on walls, touch rock art, or remove anything you find — federal law protects these places, and even the oils on a hand can permanently damage ancient pigments. Leave every site as you found it for the travelers and descendants who come after you.

Make it part of a bigger loop. Bluff rewards a longer southern Utah itinerary. It pairs naturally with the towering scenery of nearby Monument Valley, and travelers continuing west can string together Bryce Canyon, Zion National Park, and the slot canyons around Kanab into one unforgettable canyon-country road trip.

Frequently Asked Questions

Where is Bluff, Utah?

Bluff is a small town in San Juan County, in the far southeastern corner of Utah, sitting along the San Juan River where US-191 meets US-163. It is roughly an hour north of Monument Valley and about two and a half hours south of Moab.

What is there to do in Bluff, Utah?

Bluff is a base camp for some of southeast Utah’s best canyon country: Valley of the Gods, Natural Bridges National Monument, Goosenecks State Park, the Butler Wash and 16 Room Cliff House ruins, and the Sand Island Petroglyph Panel. In town, historic Bluff Fort tells the story of the Hole-in-the-Rock pioneers, and the San Juan River is a popular launch point for multi-day float trips.

Do you need a four-wheel-drive vehicle for Valley of the Gods?

Not necessarily. The 17-mile Valley of the Gods loop is a graded dirt road that most passenger cars can handle when it is dry. It becomes slick and impassable after rain, however, and it is unsuitable for large RVs. High clearance is helpful, and four-wheel drive is reassuring if the weather has been wet.

Is Valley of the Gods worth visiting if you have already seen Monument Valley?

Yes. The scenery is remarkably similar — towering reddish mesas, buttes, and spires — but Valley of the Gods is free to enter, far less crowded, and allows free dispersed camping. Many travelers find the solitude makes it every bit as memorable as nearby Monument Valley.

How much does it cost to visit Natural Bridges National Monument?

Natural Bridges National Monument charges a $20 per-vehicle entrance fee that is valid for seven days, and the America the Beautiful interagency pass is accepted. The monument is open 24 hours a day year-round and is one of the world’s first certified International Dark Sky Parks, making it an exceptional place for stargazing.

Can you bring dogs to the ruins and trails near Bluff?

Leashed dogs are welcome on the short Butler Wash Ruins trail, where our dog Jake happily joined us. Pet rules vary from site to site across Bears Ears country, so it is always worth checking ahead before you set out.

When is the best time of year to visit Bluff?

Spring, from March through May, and fall, from September through October, are ideal — mild temperatures, comfortable hiking weather, and beautiful light. Summers are very hot with little shade, while winters are cold but peaceful and uncrowded.

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Filed Under: USA, Utah Tagged With: 16 Room Cliff House, Anasazi, Bears Ears National Monument, Bluff, Bluff Fort, Butler Wash Ruins, Goosenecks State Park, Natural Bridges National Monument, San Juan River, Sand Island, Sand Island Petroglyphs, Utah, Valley of the Gods

About Michael Huntley

Travel photographer and blogger at Traveling Huntleys. Documenting adventures across the American Southwest and beyond since 2016.

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