Last Updated: May 25, 2026
It was a five-hour drive from Colorado to the Black Hills of South Dakota. We rolled through the verdant, grass-covered hills of Colorado and Wyoming, with Jake on the lookout for antelope, prairie dogs, and cattle the whole way. As we crossed into South Dakota, the hills turned pine-covered and the roads grew curvy — prompting plenty of reminders from Sandy to slow down.
The Black Hills
Even though it was Memorial Day weekend, the area was not crowded, and we spotted numerous buffalo calves. The Black Hills are an isolated mountain range rising from the Great Plains in western South Dakota. From a distance the hills appear dark because they are blanketed in pine trees. Gold was discovered here in 1874 by an expedition led by Lieutenant Colonel George Armstrong Custer, triggering the Black Hills Gold Rush. The Great Sioux War of 1876 — the last major conflict of the northern Great Plains — followed soon after, and ultimately led to the United States seizing the Black Hills from the Lakota and breaking up the Great Sioux Reservation.
Beaver Lake Campground, Custer, South Dakota
The campground is nestled in the trees. The owners were very personable and kept the place well maintained, and our site sat on the end, spacious and private. We had 50-amp service, 60-psi water pressure, sewer, and good internet. During our stay, a pair of robins decided the Jeep’s front tire was the perfect nesting spot — even though we drove the Jeep every day.
Custer State Park
Custer State Park is South Dakota’s first and largest state park, home to pronghorn, deer, elk, mountain lions, and coyotes. It is a picturesque landscape of rolling green grass and pine-covered hills.
The park is home to a herd of around 1,300 bison. Each year at the famous Buffalo Roundup, held the last weekend of September, cowboys and park staff drive the herd in, and several hundred animals are later sold at auction to keep the population healthy and balanced.
The park’s well-known feral “begging burros” are happy to be hand-fed carrots, and Jake enjoyed watching the tail-flicking prairie dogs pop in and out of their burrows.
The Needles Highway (Highway 87)
The Needles Highway is a 14-mile stretch of twisting road through the Black Hills, with incredible scenery of granite rock spires. It threads through several narrow rock tunnels that only one vehicle can pass through at a time, so a little patience — and a small vehicle — goes a long way.
Crazy Horse Memorial
Crazy Horse was an Oglala Lakota war leader who fought at the Battle of the Little Bighorn in 1876. Henry Standing Bear, an Oglala Lakota elder, recruited sculptor Korczak Ziolkowski and commissioned the memorial. Work began in 1948, and the carving remains a privately funded work in progress — the immense face was completed in 1998, and crews have since moved on to the arm, hand, and the horse’s head and mane. It is still far from finished.
Mount Rushmore
Conceived to promote tourism in the region, work on Mount Rushmore began in 1927. The sculptures were originally meant to depict the four presidents from head to waist, but a lack of funding ended construction in 1941. The National Park Service took the memorial under its jurisdiction in 1933. Today Mount Rushmore is an iconic symbol of the United States and draws around two million visitors a year.
Deadwood
Because of the Black Hills Gold Rush, the settlement of Deadwood sprang up illegally in the 1870s on land granted to the Lakota people under the Treaty of Fort Laramie. The town drew gamblers and prostitutes, its population swelled past 5,000, and lawlessness was rampant. Wild Bill Hickok and Calamity Jane both frequented Deadwood. In 1876, Wild Bill Hickok was shot dead by Jack McCall while playing poker; McCall was eventually hanged. The notorious Al Swearengen ran the town’s saloons and vice trade through the late 1800s.
Gold mining in the area did not finally cease until 2002. Gambling was legalized in 1989, which revitalized the town, and today Deadwood’s entire downtown is a National Historic Landmark.
Sturgis
Even though the Sturgis Motorcycle Rally isn’t until the first full week of August, there were still plenty of motorcycles in the area — understandable, since the well-maintained, winding roads through the Black Hills would be a dream to ride. The first rally was held in 1938, organized by Clarence “Pappy” Hoel and the Jackpine Gypsies Motorcycle Club. Today the rally draws hundreds of thousands of riders, with an economic impact estimated near $800 million for South Dakota.
We had lunch at The Knuckle Saloon. There was so much more to see in the Black Hills, but we ran short on time after spending so long in Denver — bummer! The Black Hills are gorgeous, and this is definitely an area we could see ourselves living in.
Practical Tips for Visiting the Black Hills
Getting there. The Black Hills sit in far western South Dakota. Rapid City is the region’s main hub and has the closest airport, while the town of Custer makes a central base for exploring the southern Hills. We arrived after a five-hour drive from northern Colorado through eastern Wyoming.
Custer State Park. A park entrance license is required and is valid for several days. The scenic Wildlife Loop Road is the best place to see bison, pronghorn, and the famous begging burros — early morning and evening offer the best wildlife viewing. The free Buffalo Roundup, held the last weekend of September, is a spectacular event but draws big crowds.
Scenic drives. The Needles Highway (Highway 87) and Iron Mountain Road are narrow and winding, with one-lane granite tunnels. Drive slowly, and if you are towing or driving a large RV, check tunnel clearances first — many big rigs cannot fit. Both roads typically close for the winter.
Mount Rushmore and Crazy Horse. Mount Rushmore has no entrance fee, but there is a parking fee per vehicle; in summer, stay for the evening lighting ceremony. The Crazy Horse Memorial is privately funded and charges admission, which also covers the Indian Museum of North America at the visitor complex.
When to visit. Late spring through early fall is the prime season. If you are not attending the motorcycle rally, avoid the first full week of August, when the Sturgis Rally fills lodging across the entire region and sends prices soaring. Late May and September are quieter and still beautiful.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is there to do in the Black Hills of South Dakota?
The Black Hills pack in Mount Rushmore, the Crazy Horse Memorial, Custer State Park, and the scenic Needles Highway, plus the historic towns of Deadwood and Sturgis. Nearby Wind Cave and Jewel Cave national parks and Badlands National Park are also well worth a visit.
How many days do you need in the Black Hills?
Three to five days is a good starting point. That allows time for Mount Rushmore, Crazy Horse, a full day in Custer State Park, the scenic drives, and an afternoon exploring Deadwood — with more days if you want to add the caves or the Badlands.
Is there an entrance fee for Mount Rushmore?
There is no entrance fee to visit Mount Rushmore National Memorial, but a parking fee is charged per vehicle. The parking pass is typically valid for the rest of the calendar year, so keep your receipt.
Where is the best place to see bison in the Black Hills?
Custer State Park is the best spot, with a herd of around 1,300 bison. Drive the 18-mile Wildlife Loop Road slowly, especially at dawn or dusk, and you are likely to see bison, pronghorn, deer, and the park’s friendly burros.
Is the Crazy Horse Memorial finished?
No. Carving began in 1948 and continues today as a privately funded project. The face was completed in 1998, and work has since focused on the arm, hand, and the horse’s head. There is no firm completion date.
When is the Sturgis Motorcycle Rally?
The Sturgis Motorcycle Rally is held during the first full week of August each year. It draws hundreds of thousands of riders, so book lodging far in advance — or plan your visit for another time if you prefer a quieter trip.
