Last Updated: May 2026
From Kootenay in British Columbia, we traveled north to Banff National Park in Alberta, Canada. Established in 1885, Banff is Canada’s oldest national park and one of the most visited in North America, welcoming over three million tourists annually. It is easy to see why.
Banff
Address: 224 Banff Ave, Banff, AB T1L 1K2. Hours: The park is open year-round; the Banff Visitor Centre is open daily with seasonal hours. Admission: CAD $10.50 per adult per day or CAD $21.00 per vehicle per day; Parks Canada Discovery Pass accepted. Phone: (403) 762-1550. Website: pc.gc.ca/banff.
The town of Banff itself is a genuine delight — walkable, charming, and packed with excellent shops, bars, and restaurants for when you need a break from the scenery. We were even able to have our mail forwarded to the local post office, which made an extended stay feel almost like home.
Surrounding the town are stunning mountain views in every direction, the iconic Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel, and the beautiful Bow River winding through the valley.
We had lunch at Nourish Bistro, a beloved vegan restaurant in downtown Banff with a wonderfully bohemian atmosphere. The wild mushroom ravioli was delicious — one of the best meals of the trip.
Bow Falls
Bow Falls sits just downstream from the Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel — a short, easy walk along a scenic riverside trail. The turquoise colour of the Bow River is extraordinary, fed by glacial meltwater from the surrounding peaks. One of those simple stops that stays with you.
Banff Gondola
Address: 100 Mountain Ave, Banff, AB T1L 1B2. Hours: Open daily; hours vary seasonally — check the website before visiting. Admission: Adults approximately CAD $66; youth CAD $33; check website for current pricing. Phone: (403) 762-2523. Website: banffjaspercollection.com/banff-gondola.
The Banff Gondola rises 698 metres up Sulphur Mountain in just eight minutes, delivering you to a 360-degree panoramic view of six mountain ranges. At the summit there are several kilometres of interpretive boardwalks, an educational cosmic ray station, and the excellent Sky Bistro restaurant.
Lunch at the Sky Bistro was excellent — good food with an unbeatable view of the Bow Valley far below. While we ate, bighorn sheep grazed on the ridgeline just outside the windows. Only in Banff.
Bow Valley Scenic Parkway
The Bow Valley Scenic Parkway (Highway 1A) is the 48-kilometre alternative to the Trans-Canada Highway between Banff and Lake Louise, and it is far superior for wildlife viewing and scenery. Along the way we came across a black bear feasting on roadside vegetation — always a thrill. The parkway passes through dense forest, meadows, and alongside the turquoise Bow River.
Johnston Canyon
Johnston Canyon is a must-do. The trail follows catwalks bolted into the canyon wall above Johnston Creek, leading first to the dramatic Lower Falls and then on to the equally impressive Upper Falls. We went late in the afternoon when the crowds had thinned considerably — a smart move, as the parking lot fills well before noon in summer.
Numerous smaller cascades line the trail between the two main falls. Jake was more interested in the chipmunks darting across the path than the waterfalls, but we appreciated both.
Tunnel Mountain Campground
Tunnel Mountain is the closest campground to Banff townsite and one of the largest in the Canadian Rockies. Sites book up more than six months in advance — we had to juggle three different site assignments across a week because that was all that was available when we booked seven months out. Hookups are 30-amp only (no 50-amp), with water and sewer but no cable or internet. We were able to get a satellite signal. A note for US travelers: Verizon limits data to half a gigabyte per day while roaming in Canada — just enough for maps, weather, and email.
Hiking trails radiated in every direction from the campground. We frequently had deer wandering through the sites — they are remarkably relaxed around people here.
Hoodoos
A very short walk from the campground leads to an overlook above a set of hoodoos — tall, narrow columns of eroded rock standing above the Bow River valley. They pale in comparison to Utah’s hoodoos, but the mountain backdrop more than compensates. Worth the ten-minute detour.
Lake Minnewanka
Lake Minnewanka is the largest lake in Banff National Park and one of the most dramatic — a deep, wind-swept reservoir backed by the sheer faces of the Fairholme Range. It is just a short drive from Tunnel Mountain Campground and well worth an afternoon visit.
Near the lake we encountered a herd of female bighorn sheep with their lambs — relaxed and completely at ease with visitors, offering wonderful close-up photography opportunities.
Lake Louise
Lake Louise is named after Princess Louise Caroline Alberta, the fourth daughter of Queen Victoria — and the lake lives up to the royal name. Its legendary emerald colour comes from glacial rock flour suspended in the meltwater that flows down from the Victoria Glacier. The lake is one of the most photographed locations in Canada, and deservedly so.
An easy, mostly flat trail runs along the lakeshore and then climbs into the backcountry toward the Plain of Six Glaciers — one of the most spectacular hikes in the Rockies. Even a walk just along the lake takes your breath away at every turn.
Plan to arrive early — the parking lot was full by 8 a.m. when we visited. Park shuttles run from the Lake Louise Ski Resort overflow lots in summer, which helps, but arriving at first light is the best strategy for both parking and photographs.
The Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise anchors the eastern shore of the lake in grand style. Built by the Canadian Pacific Railway — which was instrumental in establishing Banff in its earliest years — it remains one of the great grand hotels of Canada. We had a wonderful lunch on the patio with the glacier staring down at us. Well worth a visit even if you are not staying there.
Practical Tips for Banff National Park
Book Tunnel Mountain far in advance: Tunnel Mountain Campground and other Parks Canada campgrounds in Banff sell out six months or more in advance. Log on to the Parks Canada reservation system on the first day reservations open and book immediately. Flexibility on dates and site types gives you the best odds.
Arrive early everywhere: Lake Louise parking fills by 8 a.m., Johnston Canyon is packed by mid-morning, and the Banff Gondola can have long lines by 10 a.m. in summer. An early start — 6 to 7 a.m. — transforms every experience in this park.
US data roaming: Major US carriers significantly throttle or cap data while roaming in Canada. Verizon limited us to half a gigabyte per day — enough for maps and email but not streaming. Download offline maps before crossing the border and consider purchasing a local SIM or a Canadian travel plan for extended stays.
Dogs on trails: Unlike US National Parks, leashed dogs are allowed on most frontcountry trails in Banff. Jake thoroughly enjoyed Johnston Canyon and the Bow River trail. Check the Parks Canada website for any specific trail restrictions before heading out.
Currency and payments: All prices in Canadian national parks are in Canadian dollars, typically 20–30% less expensive than equivalent US prices depending on the exchange rate. Most establishments accept US credit cards without issue, but carry some Canadian cash for smaller vendors and campground fees.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is the Banff Gondola worth the price?
Yes — it is one of the best investments in Banff. The gondola ride to the summit of Sulphur Mountain takes just eight minutes and delivers a 360-degree panoramic view of six mountain ranges. Add in the Sky Bistro for lunch, the summit boardwalk, bighorn sheep grazing at the top, and the interpretive centre, and you can easily spend three to four hours up there.
Is Johnston Canyon worth the hike?
Absolutely — it is one of the best short hikes in the Canadian Rockies. The lower falls are about 1.1 kilometres in; the upper falls are 2.7 kilometres. The catwalk trail bolted into the canyon wall is unique and spectacular. Go late afternoon to avoid the worst crowds, and note that parking fills by mid-morning in summer.
What is the best time to visit Lake Louise?
Arrive at first light — ideally before 7 a.m. The lake is at its most magical in the calm of early morning when the surface is glassy and the Victoria Glacier is lit by the rising sun. Parking fills by 8 a.m. in peak season. Summer shuttles run from overflow lots if you arrive later, but an early start is the best strategy.
How far in advance should I book Tunnel Mountain Campground?
Book as soon as reservations open — typically four to six months before your desired dates on the Parks Canada reservation system. Sites are extremely limited relative to demand and regularly sell out within hours of opening. If you miss the initial window, check frequently for cancellations. We booked seven months out and still had to take three separate site assignments across a week-long stay.
What wildlife can you see in Banff?
Banff has exceptional wildlife. On this trip alone we saw black bears on the Bow Valley Scenic Parkway, bighorn sheep at Lake Minnewanka and at the top of Sulphur Mountain, and deer in the campground daily. Elk, moose, wolves, coyotes, and grizzly bears also inhabit the park — elk are frequently seen right in the town of Banff, particularly in fall.
Is the Chateau Lake Louise worth a visit if we are not staying there?
Definitely. The hotel’s patio restaurant overlooks the lake and the Victoria Glacier — one of the great views in the world while eating lunch. The lobby and public areas are also stunning. Even a coffee on the terrace is worth it for the experience. Reservations are recommended for dining in peak season.
