Last Updated: May 28, 2026
From White Bird, Idaho we drove south to McCall — a scenic few hours alongside the Salmon River canyon, full of twists, turns, and stunning gorge views. Surprisingly, not a single cabinet came open. We spent a relaxed week at the McCall RV Resort before continuing south to Bruneau Dunes State Park, home to the tallest single-structured sand dune in North America and some of the darkest skies in Idaho.
McCall, Idaho
McCall sits on the southern shore of Payette Lake at 5,021 feet elevation — a genuine all-seasons resort town with a small-town feel. At around 3,000 residents it has all the amenities you need without losing its character. We arrived in mid-September when the nights were cool, the days were warm, and the first fall color was beginning to show in the trees. The town records one of the highest average snowfalls in Idaho, making it equally popular with skiers in winter and hikers, boaters, and mountain bikers in summer.
The U.S. Forest Service operates its McCall Smokejumper Base here — one of the elite smokejumper training facilities in the United States, established in 1943. Smokejumpers parachute directly into remote wilderness fires that are inaccessible by road, and McCall’s location in central Idaho puts it at the heart of some of the most fire-prone backcountry in the American West. We watched a Forest Service helicopter dipping water from the river for active fire suppression nearby.
McCall RV Resort
The McCall RV Resort was outstanding. Our site pulled in directly facing the North Fork Payette River with 50-amp service, sewer, cable, excellent water pressure, and very good internet. Having the river right out the front window made the entire stay.
Each evening we watched the sunset paint the river gold. The clubhouse was enormous — indoor pool, sauna, private showers, and a hot tub with adult-only hours from 8–10 p.m. We essentially had it to ourselves every time.
Every day, large herds of mule deer wandered through the park. They paid absolutely no attention to the RVs — or to Jake.
The North Fork Payette River outside our site was busy with wildlife. We watched osprey diving for trout and Great Blue Herons working the shallows. Geese, ducks, and a kingfisher rounded out the daily bird parade right outside the door.
Salmon River Brewing Company
Salmon River Brewing Company is a McCall institution. They pour very good craft beers and carry local wines, and the patio looks directly out over Payette Lake. The fish tacos were exceptional. We arrived just in time to catch the last of the sunset over the water.
Little Payette Lake
A short drive from McCall brought us to Little Payette Lake — quiet, beautiful, and far less visited than its larger neighbor. We spotted a sage grouse on the way in, though wildlife was otherwise scarce during this visit. A lovely detour worth the short drive.
Near the McCall Airport we came across a retired motorhome and a wingless DC-3 — two old travelers that looked like they had seen a lot of miles. DC-3s were the workhorse aircraft of the early smokejumper program, and McCall’s aviation history runs deep.
Visitor Information — Visit McCall: Address: 301 E Lake St, McCall, ID 83638. Hours: Monday–Friday 9 a.m.–5 p.m. Phone: (208) 634-7631. Website: visitmccall.org.
Bruneau Dunes State Park, Idaho
Bruneau Dunes State Park sits in a remote desert bowl in southwestern Idaho, and it contains the tallest single-structured sand dune in North America — rising about 470 feet above the surrounding Snake River Plain. In late September we had the park nearly to ourselves, which only added to the otherworldly atmosphere of this remote and remarkable place.
We scored an end site facing directly toward the dunes — 50-amp service, good water pressure, excellent satellite reception, decent internet, and a dump station on site. Waking up with the sand dunes out the window never got old.
We spent hours hiking the dunes. The climb is deceptively tiring — loose sand makes every step twice as hard as it looks. The views from the top are unforgettable. Jake was in his element and could have gone for miles.
Evenings brought stunning sunsets, with the light turning the dunes gold and amber. We also spotted a bull snake working its way up a steep dune face — Idaho’s largest snake, and completely harmless to humans. Watching it struggle upward through the loose sand was both comical and impressive.
Near the visitor center stands a human sundial — you become the gnomon and your shadow tells the time. It was overcast when we tried it, but a faint shadow still appeared. Bruneau Dunes is officially a low-light area, and a small on-site observatory was built from donations by local astronomers. It is one of the few state park observatories in the country.
On a clear night, the Milky Way over the dunes is extraordinary — minimal light pollution and a vast open desert sky combine to make this one of the finest stargazing locations in Idaho. Unfortunately, the night the observatory was open, heavy cloud cover rolled in. We are still glad we captured this shot.
Visitor Information — Bruneau Dunes State Park: Address: 27608 Sand Dunes Rd, Mountain Home, ID 83647. Hours: Dawn to dusk; observatory open select evenings (check schedule). Admission: $5 per vehicle. Phone: (208) 366-7919. Website: parksandrecreation.idaho.gov/parks/bruneau-dunes.
Bruneau Canyon
A short drive from the dunes brings you to Bruneau Canyon — a dramatic, near-vertical-walled gorge carved by the Bruneau River through Snake River Plain basalt. The region was named for Canadian fur trapper Pierre Bruneau, who explored this remote country in the 1820s.
We had the canyon nearly to ourselves — a striking contrast to the crowded national parks of the previous months. The road out passes warning signs that Mountain Home Air Force Base uses the surrounding area as a bombing range for the next 12 miles. That may explain the sparse crowds. The canyon itself is spectacular, and well worth the detour.
Practical Tips
At McCall RV Resort, request a river-facing site when you book. The North Fork Payette River views, wildlife, and nightly sunsets from a front-facing site are exceptional — sites away from the river are far less memorable.
Hiking the Bruneau Dunes is more strenuous than it looks. The loose sand makes every step twice as hard — what appears to be a short climb to the top is a real workout. Go early in the morning before the desert heat builds, and bring more water than you think you will need.
Check the Bruneau Dunes Observatory schedule before your visit. The observatory is open select evenings, staffed by volunteer astronomers, and the views through the telescopes on a clear night are exceptional. The Idaho State Parks website posts the current schedule.
McCall in mid-September is nearly ideal timing. Summer crowds are gone, temperatures are comfortable, and the first fall color is appearing in the trees. For winter visitors, the Brundage Mountain Resort above town provides excellent skiing and snowboarding from late November onward.
The bull snakes at Bruneau Dunes are harmless. Idaho’s largest snake is non-venomous and plays a valuable role controlling rodent populations. Treat them with respect and they will go on their way. Rattlesnakes also inhabit the area, however, so watch where you step off-trail.
Salmon River Brewing Company in McCall is best around sunset. The patio faces Payette Lake and the light in the hour before sunset is spectacular. Arrive 30–45 minutes before and plan to linger. The fish tacos are not to be missed.
Frequently Asked Questions
What makes Bruneau Dunes State Park unique? Bruneau Dunes contains the tallest single-structured sand dune in North America, rising approximately 470 feet above the desert floor. Unlike most dune systems where the formations migrate over time, the Bruneau dunes are remarkably stable — anchored in place by competing winds that blow from opposite directions with nearly equal force, holding the dunes in position for thousands of years.
What is a smokejumper, and why is McCall’s base significant? Smokejumpers are elite wildland firefighters who parachute directly into remote wilderness fires inaccessible by road. The McCall Smokejumper Base, established in 1943, is one of only a handful of such facilities in the United States and plays a critical role protecting Idaho’s vast backcountry. McCall’s central location in the most fire-prone wilderness in the American West makes it strategically essential.
Is McCall worth visiting outside of summer? Absolutely. Brundage Mountain Resort above town provides excellent skiing and snowboarding in winter. Spring and fall offer smaller crowds, lower rates, and spectacular scenery — the fall color in September and the changing light on Payette Lake are particularly beautiful. McCall’s dining and recreation infrastructure is strong year-round.
Why is there an Air Force bombing range near Bruneau Canyon? Mountain Home Air Force Base, located roughly 20 miles north of Bruneau, operates the Saylor Creek Bombing Range across parts of the surrounding high desert. Public roads pass near the range boundary where signs warn of potential hazards from training operations. The road to Bruneau Canyon and the canyon overlook itself are open to the public and safe to visit.
What is the Bruneau Dunes Observatory? The Bruneau Dunes Observatory is a small public astronomical observatory built on the state park grounds with donations from local astronomers. It is operated by volunteers and open select evenings during the camping season. The park’s designation as a low-light area makes it one of the finest stargazing locations in Idaho — on clear nights the Milky Way is easily visible with the naked eye.
What wildlife is typically seen at McCall and Bruneau Dunes? At the McCall RV Resort we saw large herds of mule deer daily, osprey and Great Blue Herons fishing the North Fork Payette River, and geese, ducks, and a kingfisher outside our door. A sage grouse appeared near Little Payette Lake. At Bruneau Dunes we encountered a bull snake on the dunes — Idaho’s largest snake and completely harmless — and the desert around the canyon supports jackrabbits, coyotes, and raptors including red-tailed hawks.
