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Traveling Huntleys

Inspiring travel stories, tips, and guides from a couple exploring the world one destination at a time.

Sierra Nevada Road Trip: Hawthorne, Mono Lake, Lake Tahoe & Truckee

May 13, 2019 by Michael Huntley

Last Updated: June 18, 2026

The Sierra Nevada mountain range was just stunning after heavy winter storms dumped a lot of snow. Even though snow was badly needed, it closed roads to attractions like the ghost town of Bodie, California.

Long straight road heading west toward the snow-covered Sierra Nevada Mountains, California

The Sierra Nevada

Snow-capped Sierra Nevada mountains reflected behind the blue waters of Lake Tahoe

The Sierra Nevada runs about 400 miles in a north-south direction, primarily in California with the Carson Range extending into Nevada. The range is home to amazing national parks including Kings Canyon and Sequoia and Yosemite. It was the site of the California Gold Rush in the 1840s and ’50s, and Lake Tahoe is renowned for its world-class ski resorts. The western foothills are studded with wineries producing some of California’s finest wines.

Hawthorne, Nevada

Sandy Huntley aiming a Thompson submachine gun at the Hawthorne Ordnance Museum, Nevada

From Las Vegas we headed north through Beatty to Hawthorne, Nevada. The world’s largest military ammunition storage depot is located here — the Hawthorne Army Ammunition Plant, established in 1930, spans over 147,000 acres with hundreds of underground bunkers visible from the highway.

Michael Huntley MD, standing next to a WWII-era tank at the Hawthorne Ordnance Museum, Nevada

The Hawthorne Ordnance Museum was pretty amazing, and admission is free. The museum was established in 2002 and preserves the military history tied to the depot.

Sandy Huntley sitting in a WWII Willys Army Jeep at the Hawthorne Ordnance Museum, Nevada

Numerous volunteers from different eras of military service were present to answer questions and enthusiastically encouraged visitors to pick up weapons, climb into the tank, or take a seat in the jeep. A truly hands-on experience you don’t find at most museums.

Walker Lake

Walker Lake with the Sierra Nevada mountains reflected in the calm water, Nevada

Just north of Hawthorne is Walker Lake, Nevada’s largest natural lake within the state. Like Mono Lake, it’s a terminal lake with no outlet — the Walker River feeds it but has no drainage. Locals told us it has very few fish because of its high salinity, which has increased significantly over the decades as agricultural diversions upstream have reduced inflow and caused water levels to drop. The dramatic mountain backdrop makes it a striking stop along US-95.

Mono Lake, Sierra Nevada, California

Mono Lake with snow-covered Sierra Nevada mountains rising sharply in the background, California

Mono Lake is one of the oldest lakes in North America — roughly 760,000 years old — located along the eastern Sierra Nevada. It’s a saline lake with no natural outlet, which causes high concentrations of salt and minerals to accumulate over time. The lake’s salinity is two to three times that of the ocean. It supports an extraordinary food web of brine shrimp and alkali flies, which in turn make it a critical habitat for over two million migratory birds each year.

Osprey nesting atop a tufa tower at Mono Lake, California
Cliff Swallow perched on a tufa tower at Mono Lake, California
Canada Goose grazing at the edge of Mono Lake with snow-capped Sierra Nevada mountains, California
Tufa limestone towers rising from the surface of Mono Lake, Sierra Nevada, California

The iconic tufa towers are limestone formations that grew underwater for thousands of years, where calcium-rich freshwater springs met the carbonate-alkaline lake water. As water levels dropped — dramatically accelerated in the 20th century when the Los Angeles Department of Water and Power began diverting Mono’s tributary streams — the towers were exposed. A landmark conservation battle in the 1990s led to new water rights protections that have helped stabilize the lake’s levels.

Lake Tahoe, Sierra Nevada

Sandy Huntley and Jake at the shore of Lake Tahoe with snow-covered Sierra Nevada peaks behind them

Lake Tahoe straddles the California-Nevada border in the Sierra Nevada at 6,225 feet elevation. It’s 22 miles long, 12 miles wide, and 1,645 feet deep — the second deepest lake in the United States. The water is famously clear; on a calm day visibility extends more than 70 feet. In spring with the snow still heavy on the surrounding peaks, it was breathtaking.

Snow-dusted pine trees along the shoreline of Lake Tahoe, Sierra Nevada
Storm brewing over Lake Tahoe with choppy waves and dark clouds, Sierra Nevada

There are numerous world-class ski areas surrounding the lake — Palisades Tahoe (formerly Squaw Valley), Heavenly, Northstar, Kirkwood, and many more. In summer, Lake Tahoe is equally popular among hikers, cyclists, kayakers, and boaters. It’s one of those rare places that draws crowds in every season.

Minden, Nevada

Yellow-headed Blackbird perched in the wetlands near Carson Valley Inn, Minden, Nevada

We stayed at the Carson Valley Inn, which has a casino and RV park just east of the Sierra Nevada in the Carson Valley. Minden is a small, charming Nevada town — a nice contrast to the busy ski resort atmosphere. The wetlands nearby were productive for birding; this yellow-headed blackbird was one of several nice finds during our walks with Jake.

Truckee, California

Retro ski mural painted on a building in historic downtown Truckee, California

We really like this small mountain town. Founded as a railroad hub in 1863, Truckee has a beautifully preserved historic downtown with great restaurants, breweries, and galleries. The one downside for our RV — diesel prices were noticeably higher here than across the Nevada border. California fuel taxes are among the highest in the nation, and you feel it in the mountains.

Coachland RV Park

The Huntleys' Newmar Dutch Star motorhome and Jeep at Coachland RV Park among snow-dusted pine trees, Truckee, California

There was still snow on the ground but the roads were clear. Jake enjoyed watching squirrels again — a welcome change from the desert landscapes we’d been driving through for weeks.

Visitor Information

Mono Lake Tufa State Natural Reserve — The Mono Basin National Forest Scenic Area Visitor Center is located at US-395 N, Lee Vining, CA 93541. Phone: 760-647-3044. The South Tufa area charges a small day-use fee (America the Beautiful passes accepted); check current rates at parks.ca.gov. The visitor center is open seasonally — call ahead or check the website before visiting. Lake Tahoe has no single entrance fee; for trip planning, visit visitlaketahoe.com. The Hawthorne Ordnance Museum is free and open most days at US-95 in Hawthorne, Nevada — check hawthorneordnancemuseum.com for current hours.

Practical Tips for the Sierra Nevada

If you’re driving through in spring, check road conditions before heading out — Bodie State Historic Park and many mountain passes can remain closed well into May after a heavy snow year. For RV travelers, the Sierra Nevada grades are steep: US-395 through the Owen’s Valley east of the range is generally easier than the western approaches over Donner Pass (I-80) or Tioga Pass (SR-120, seasonal). Gas up in Nevada before crossing into California — fuel prices jump significantly at the state line. Mono Lake is best visited in early morning for calm water and bird activity. At Lake Tahoe, parking in summer is challenging; consider arriving early or using shuttles along the south shore.

Frequently Asked Questions

What are the tufa towers at Mono Lake?

Tufa towers are limestone formations that grew underwater for thousands of years where calcium-rich freshwater springs bubbled up through the alkaline lake water. As water levels dropped — both naturally and dramatically accelerated by 20th-century water diversions to Los Angeles — the towers were exposed above the surface. Some rise 30 or more feet above the lake. They’re unlike anything else in North America.

Is Lake Tahoe worth visiting in spring?

Absolutely. Late spring (May–June) can be ideal — ski resorts are winding down, summer crowds haven’t arrived yet, and the snow-capped peaks against the impossibly blue water are stunning. Some hiking trails may still have snow, so check conditions before planning specific hikes. The lake itself is accessible year-round along the shoreline.

Is Bodie Ghost Town worth visiting?

Yes — Bodie State Historic Park is one of the best-preserved ghost towns in the American West, with about 200 original buildings still standing in “arrested decay.” It sits at 8,375 feet elevation on the eastern side of the Sierra Nevada near Bridgeport, California. The access road is unpaved and remains closed by snow well into spring — call ahead or check parks.ca.gov for current road status before making the trip.

What is the Hawthorne Ordnance Museum?

The Hawthorne Ordnance Museum preserves the military history of the Hawthorne Army Ammunition Plant — the world’s largest military ammunition storage facility, established in 1930 and spanning over 147,000 acres. The museum opened in 2002 and is staffed largely by veterans who bring the exhibits to life. Admission is free, and visitors can handle weapons and climb into vehicles. It’s a surprisingly rewarding stop if you’re passing through Hawthorne on US-95.

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Filed Under: USA, California, Nevada Tagged With: California, Hawthorne Nevada, Lake Tahoe, Mono Lake, Nevada, Road Trip, RV Travel, Sierra Nevada, Truckee

About Michael Huntley

Travel photographer and blogger at Traveling Huntleys. Documenting adventures across the American Southwest and beyond since 2016.

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