Last Updated: June 20, 2026
Crater Lake National Park is simply breathtaking. The north entrance and most of the hiking trails were still closed under snow, but we came anyway. We left the wineries of the Willamette Valley and headed for the mountains — and Oregon’s volcanic heart.
Crater Lake National Park
The drive in and out was smoky from a lightning-started fire and a prescribed burn nearby. We were relieved the smoke didn’t affect the vistas of the lake itself.
Crater Lake is Oregon’s only national park, established in 1902. It fills the caldera of Mount Mazama, a 12,000-foot volcano that collapsed in a cataclysmic eruption approximately 7,700 years ago — one of the largest volcanic events in North America in the past million years. At 1,949 feet, Crater Lake is the deepest lake in the United States and the ninth deepest in the world. Its extraordinary clarity and vivid blue color come from the purity of the water and its great depth.
The rim of the caldera sits at around 8,000 feet — which explains the lingering snowpack even in late June. The views from every overlook along the Rim Drive are extraordinary.
On the road back toward Crescent, Oregon, we came across a couple of Bald Eagles taking full advantage of a roadkill deer. Nature’s cleanup crew at work.
We stayed at Big Pines RV Park in Crescent, Oregon — full service and private, with satellite reception threading through the trees. The mosquitoes, however, were enormous and ravenously hungry. We were glad we only booked two nights. The sunsets made up for everything.
Down the road was the Mohawk Restaurant and Lounge — stuffed with an astonishing collection of wildlife taxidermy and memorabilia. Their burgers weren’t bad either.
Newberry National Volcanic Monument
Newberry National Volcanic Monument is a genuine treasure and one of Oregon’s most undervisited wonders. Created in 1990 and managed by the Deschutes National Forest, it encompasses over 54,000 acres of lava flows, obsidian fields, lava tubes, hiking trails, and crater lakes — all within the caldera of the massive Newberry Volcano, one of the largest shield volcanoes in the continental United States.
The Big Obsidian Flow — one of the youngest lava flows in Oregon at approximately 1,300 years old — is carpeted with jet-black volcanic glass. Native peoples traveled hundreds of miles to obtain this obsidian for tools and trade. Unfortunately, the road to Paulina Peak was still closed due to snow, but the lava fields and caves were fully accessible.
We hiked Lava River Cave — a continuous lava tube formed approximately 80,000 years ago when the outer crust of a lava flow hardened while molten rock drained out beneath it, leaving a hollow tunnel stretching nearly a mile. The walk in was absolutely peaceful and silent. The walk out was considerably less peaceful — we encountered several families who apparently felt the need to talk constantly.
The cave maintains a constant 42°F year-round — a refreshing contrast to the 85°F outside. The Forest Service rents powerful lanterns for just $5, which is essential — personal flashlights barely dent the absolute darkness inside.
A few bats live in the cave. Otherwise, the tube is entirely silent — one of the most unusual hiking experiences we’ve had.
We also hiked to Benham Falls along the Deschutes River — a powerful and photogenic set of rapids through a basalt canyon, ringed with spring wildflowers. Jake was thrilled with every mile of it.
Bend, Oregon
Bend is one of the most livable cities in the American West — snowcapped Cascade mountains to the west, high desert to the east, the Deschutes River threading through town, and an extraordinary concentration of outdoor recreation, craft breweries, wine bars, and restaurants. We immediately understood why it has become one of Oregon’s fastest-growing cities.
Mt. Bachelor ski area was closed for the season, but substantial snowpack remained well into late June — a reminder that the Cascades operate on their own schedule.
Downtown Bend is wonderful — an incredible range of boutique shops, wine bars, craft breweries, and restaurants packed into a walkable district. And yes, also a Costco, which we needed.
We stayed at CrownVilla RV Resort — paved sites, huge pull-throughs, full service, and decent wifi. The trees were too dense for satellite, but they allowed vehicle washing, so the Jeep got another bath.
Tumalo Falls is about 12 miles from Bend — an 89-foot waterfall accessible via a short, easy trail from the parking area. The trail continues another four miles up to Happy Valley for those wanting a longer hike. Jake stretched his legs happily on every foot of it.
Twenty miles northwest of Bend is the town of Sisters — a charming Western-themed community with the Three Sisters and other Cascade peaks as a constant backdrop. We stopped at Cork Cellars for a fig and olive tapenade with grilled vegetable flatbread. Delicious, and the owner was genuinely welcoming.
Crater Lake and Bend were both beautiful — it was easy to understand why people have flocked to live here. Bend averages nearly 300 days of sunshine a year, which feels like the opposite of everything we’d experienced on the Oregon coast.
Visitor Information
Crater Lake National Park entrance is at Rim Village, Crater Lake, OR 97604. Phone: 541-594-3000. Website: nps.gov/crla. Admission: $35/vehicle. The park is open year-round, but only the south rim is accessible in winter and spring — the north entrance and most rim trails typically reopen around late June to early July depending on snowpack. Check road conditions before visiting. Newberry National Volcanic Monument is managed by Deschutes National Forest. Phone: 541-383-5300. Website: fs.usda.gov. A Northwest Forest Pass ($5/day) or America the Beautiful pass is required. Lava River Cave: $5/adult admission; lanterns rented for $5 at the cave entrance. Tumalo Falls is approximately 12 miles west of Bend off Skyliners Road; a Northwest Forest Pass is required for parking. CrownVilla RV Resort (Bend): 1600 SE Paulina Hwy, Bend, OR 97702; crownvillarv.com. One of the finest large-rig RV resorts in the Pacific Northwest.
Practical Tips
Check Crater Lake road conditions before visiting — the north rim typically opens around the July 4th weekend, and snow can close viewpoints and trails well into summer even in normal years. The south rim and Rim Village are accessible from late May in most years. Arrive at Crater Lake early — the parking areas at Rim Village and key overlooks fill by late morning in peak season. Early morning also offers the best light and mirror-like lake reflections. Bring layers to Crater Lake — at 7,000–8,000 feet, temperatures can drop 20–30°F from the valley even on warm summer days. For Lava River Cave, wear a warm jacket (42°F inside regardless of season) and rent the Forest Service lanterns — personal flashlights are genuinely insufficient for the mile-long tube. Allow 1.5–2 hours round trip. Bend is very popular in summer — book RV sites and restaurant reservations well in advance. CrownVilla is an excellent base for the whole area. Sisters is worth a half-day visit; combine it with a drive on the McKenzie-Santiam Pass Scenic Byway for stunning Cascade views. Mosquitoes around Crescent, Oregon can be severe in June — bring repellent and consider a citronella option for outdoor evenings.
Frequently Asked Questions
How deep is Crater Lake and how was it formed?
Crater Lake is 1,949 feet deep — the deepest lake in the United States and ninth deepest in the world. It formed approximately 7,700 years ago when Mount Mazama, a 12,000-foot volcano in the Cascades, erupted catastrophically and collapsed into its emptied magma chamber. The resulting caldera gradually filled with rainwater and snowmelt over thousands of years, with no inlet or outlet rivers. Its extraordinary clarity — visibility up to 142 feet — and the famous vivid blue color come from the purity of the water and its exceptional depth. The lake has no tributaries and is replenished entirely by precipitation.
What is the Lava River Cave at Newberry National Volcanic Monument?
Lava River Cave is a lava tube — a natural tunnel formed approximately 80,000 years ago when the outer crust of a flowing lava stream hardened while molten rock continued draining through the center, eventually leaving a hollow conduit. At nearly a mile long, it is one of the longest accessible lava tubes in Oregon. The cave maintains a constant 42°F year-round, regardless of outside temperature. It is pitch black inside — the Forest Service rents powerful lanterns ($5) at the entrance, which are essential. Admission is $5/adult. Wear warm layers even in summer and allow 1.5–2 hours for the round trip.
What is Bend, Oregon known for?
Bend has become one of the most celebrated outdoor recreation cities in the American West. It sits at the eastern edge of the Cascades where high desert meets mountains, giving it an unusually diverse array of activities: world-class skiing at Mt. Bachelor, whitewater kayaking and fly fishing on the Deschutes River, hundreds of miles of mountain biking trails, hiking, rock climbing, and golf. Downtown Bend has also developed a remarkable food, craft brewery, and wine scene for a city of its size. With nearly 300 days of sunshine per year and quick access to Crater Lake, Newberry Volcanic Monument, and the Three Sisters Wilderness, it’s easy to understand why Bend has been one of Oregon’s fastest-growing cities for decades.
When do Crater Lake’s hiking trails open after winter?
Crater Lake receives an average of 43 feet of snow per winter — one of the highest snowfall totals of any national park in the country. The south rim entrance and Rim Village are accessible from late May in most years. The north entrance road and the full Rim Drive loop typically open around the July 4th weekend, though heavy snow years can push this back to late July. Most hiking trails above 7,000 feet follow a similar schedule. The park’s website (nps.gov/crla) posts current road and trail conditions, which is essential to check before planning a visit. Caldera views are spectacular even in June with snow on the rim.
