Last Updated: June 22, 2026
Montana is one of the largest and least populated states in America — and one of our absolute favorites. On this leg of our Pacific Northwest loop, we pushed east from Walla Walla, Washington through northern Idaho before crossing into Big Sky Country. We would have loved to revisit Glacier and Yellowstone, but with New England fall foliage and a Florida winter on the horizon, we had to keep moving. What we did find along the way — a hidden ghost town, a cave carved by ancient seas, and a sandstone pillar signed by Lewis and Clark — more than made up for it.
Coeur d’Alene, Idaho
Visitor Information — Blackwell Island RV Park: 800 S Marina Dr, Coeur d’Alene, ID 83814. Phone: (208) 664-4941. Full hookups, waterfront sites available. Tubbs Hill: Trailhead at the end of 3rd Street, Coeur d’Alene — free 2.5-mile loop trail along Lake Coeur d’Alene. Coeur d’Alene Cellars: 206 N 9th St, Coeur d’Alene, ID 83814. Website: cdalenecellars.com.
Our first stop after leaving Washington was Blackwell Island RV Park in Coeur d’Alene — a nicely situated full-service park right on the water. The best waterfront sites book up well in advance, so we didn’t score one of those, but even the inland sites were pleasant. The park sits on an island in the Spokane River just minutes from downtown.
The park had lovely walking trails along the water — wildflowers in bloom and easy access for Jake to stretch his legs.
The waterfront restaurant nearby had a clever solution to their bird problem — coyote decoys mounted on dock posts. We’d never seen that approach before, but it seemed to work remarkably well.
Coeur d’Alene is one of those towns we could genuinely imagine settling in — a beautiful lake, a walkable downtown, and a quality of life that’s hard to argue with. The Tubbs Hill trail is an easy 2.5-mile loop right along the lake shore, with sweeping views of Lake Coeur d’Alene at every turn. It’s accessible, scenic, and well worth an hour or two.
We really enjoyed Coeur d’Alene Cellars. They source their grapes from Washington — smart, given Idaho’s limited wine grape production — and the wines were genuinely good. A charcuterie board and a flight of reds made for a perfect afternoon stop.
Missoula, Montana
We’d been to Missoula the year before and liked it enough to come back. We returned to Jim and Mary’s RV Park, which has large, tree-shaded sites — exactly what you want in summer. Missoula sits in western Montana at the confluence of several mountain valleys, just 45 miles from the Idaho border, and has the lively, outdoor-focused energy of a university town.
The Clark Fork River runs right through the heart of Missoula, and on a hot summer day it becomes the city’s living room. Brennan’s Wave is a man-made standing wave in the river that locals surf and tube — a quintessential Missoula experience that perfectly captures the town’s outdoorsy spirit.
A Carousel for Missoula is one of those unexpected downtown gems. Entirely volunteer-built, it’s one of the fastest hand-carved carousels in America — the horses are beautifully crafted and each one tells a story. Worth a stop even if you’re not traveling with kids.
We took a scenic drive north through the Seeley-Swan Valley to Seeley Lake — a gorgeous stretch of road through forested mountains and glacially carved lakes. Lunch was at a rustic cabin café whose walls were plastered with local humor. The kind of place that feels absolutely right for where it is.
Ten Spoon Vineyard and Winery is a Missoula institution — they source some grapes locally and some from Washington, and the result is a surprisingly good lineup for a state not typically associated with wine. The grizzly bear artwork on the wall sets the Montana mood perfectly.
Garnet Ghost Town
Visitor Information: Garnet Ghost Town is located approximately 30 miles east of Missoula off Highway 200, then 7 miles down a dirt road on Bear Creek Road. Managed jointly by the BLM and the Garnet Preservation Association. Open: Summer season typically June through September for self-guided tours; winter access by snowmobile only. Admission: approximately $3/person. Website: blm.gov — Garnet Ghost Town.
Gold was discovered here in 1898, and almost overnight the population swelled to over 1,000 people. By 1905, only 150 remained. Not long after, the town fell silent entirely. Today Garnet Ghost Town is one of the best-preserved ghost towns in the American West, managed by the BLM, with dozens of buildings still standing and an astonishing number of artifacts left in place.
What makes Garnet special is how much remains inside the buildings — mining tools, cast iron stoves, furniture, even a sewing machine. Walking through feels less like visiting a historical exhibit and more like stumbling onto a town that everyone simply walked away from one afternoon.
Jake was a very good sport about the boardwalk tour. We explored saloons, hotels, and residences, piecing together what daily life must have looked like during the gold boom. It’s a quietly remarkable place — off the beaten path enough that it never feels crowded, and well worth the dirt road drive to get there.
Three Forks, Montana
Three Forks sits at one of the most geographically significant spots in North America — the point where the Gallatin, Jefferson, and Madison Rivers converge to form the Missouri River. The Missouri is the longest river on the continent, eventually draining into the Mississippi and on to the Gulf of Mexico. Standing at the headwaters and tracing that journey in your mind is a genuinely humbling experience.
We stayed at Camp Three Forks, which offered full hookups and good satellite access — everything we needed for a comfortable base to explore the area’s surprisingly rich concentration of attractions.
Madison Buffalo Jump State Park
Visitor Information: Madison Buffalo Jump State Park is located approximately 23 miles south of Three Forks on Buffalo Jump Road off US-287. Managed by Montana Fish, Wildlife & Parks. Admission: Free. Website: stateparks.mt.gov — Madison Buffalo Jump.
For nearly 2,000 years, Native Americans used this limestone cliff to hunt bison — stampeding entire herds over the edge to provide food, hides, and tools for their communities. Standing at the base of that cliff and contemplating the scale and ingenuity of this practice is one of those moments that reframes your sense of history on the Great Plains.
Lewis and Clark Caverns State Park
Visitor Information: Lewis and Clark Caverns State Park, 1111 Lewis and Clark Caverns Rd, Whitehall, MT 59759. Phone: (406) 287-3541. Cave tours are required — tours run approximately 2 hours. Admission: approximately $12/adult; check for current pricing. Open: May through September. Website: stateparks.mt.gov — Lewis and Clark Caverns.
With outside temperatures in the high 90s, stepping into the caverns — a cool 46°F year-round — felt like a gift. Lewis and Clark Caverns is Montana’s oldest and most visited state park, and the cave system is genuinely spectacular. The guided tour winds through chambers packed with stalactites, stalagmites, helictites, and cave popcorn formations.
We could have stayed underground all day. The cave tour is approximately two hours and involves some crawling through tight passages — worth every bit of it. Don’t miss this one.
Bleu Horses
The surrounding hillsides around Three Forks are home to real horses — and 39 steel ones. Artist Jim Dolan created the Bleu Horses installation, a collection of life-size steel horse sculptures painted blue and scattered across the landscape. They’re surprisingly moving, especially at golden hour when they catch the light against the big Montana sky.
Billings, Montana
Billings is Montana’s largest city at over 100,000 people — which, by Montana standards, feels positively metropolitan. The Yellowstone River flows through the area, and the rimrock cliffs that frame the city’s northern edge give it a dramatic, distinctly Western character.
We stayed at the original KOA — the very first one ever built, right here in Billings in 1962. The sites are long, full-hookup, and satellite-friendly. It’s still a KOA, which means it comes with the expected amenities and the expected crowds, but the history is a fun footnote.
Pompeys Pillar National Monument
Visitor Information: Pompeys Pillar National Monument, 3039 US Highway 312, Worden, MT 59088 — approximately 28 miles east of Billings. Managed by the BLM. Admission: approximately $7/vehicle. Open: May through September. Phone: (406) 875-2400. Website: blm.gov — Pompeys Pillar.
The Lewis and Clark Expedition traveled approximately 3,700 miles from Illinois to reach Astoria, Oregon. On the return journey in 1806, Captain William Clark climbed this sandstone butte to survey the surrounding landscape — and left behind something remarkable.
Clark carved his name and the date — July 25, 1806 — into the sandstone face of the pillar. It remains there today, protected under glass, and is the only known physical evidence still visible along the entire route of the Lewis and Clark Expedition. Standing in front of it is one of those quietly extraordinary moments that travel occasionally delivers.
We wrapped up Billings with a tasting at Yellowstone Cellars and Winery — a local gem whose owner was personable, passionate, and making genuinely good wine at reasonable prices. Like the wineries in Yakima, Washington, he sources his grapes from the Yakima Valley AVA, proving once again just how far that Washington wine region’s reach extends.
Practical Tips
Garnet Ghost Town requires advance planning. The 7-mile dirt road access means low-clearance vehicles may struggle. Summer is best for visiting; the site is typically open June through September. Arrive early — the site is small and parking is limited. It’s easy to spend two to three hours here without realizing it.
Book Lewis and Clark Caverns tours in advance. Cave tours fill up quickly in summer, especially on weekends. The tour involves some tight passages and a steep uphill hike back to the parking area — wear comfortable shoes and bring a light layer, as it’s 46°F inside year-round regardless of the heat outside.
Coeur d’Alene waterfront sites book early. Blackwell Island RV Park’s best sites along the water go fast. If you want a waterfront spot, reserve months ahead. The island location also means good walking access to the lake regardless of which site you land in.
Pompeys Pillar is a quick but meaningful stop — plan about 90 minutes. The boardwalk trail to Clark’s signature is short and accessible, and the interpretive exhibits along the way provide excellent context for the Lewis and Clark Expedition. Located 28 miles east of Billings, it pairs naturally with a day trip east toward the Yellowstone River valley.
Montana wine is worth exploring. Ten Spoon in Missoula and Yellowstone Cellars in Billings both punch above their weight. Neither is a destination winery in the Walla Walla sense, but they offer a genuine taste of Montana hospitality and are worth an hour if you’re in either city.
