Last Updated: June 22, 2026
Voyageurs National Park sits in the far north of Minnesota, right at the Canadian border — a sprawling water wilderness named for the French-Canadian fur traders who paddled these lakes and portages in birchbark canoes centuries before there was a park here at all. Unlike almost every other unit in the National Park system, Voyageurs is primarily a water park. There are no grand scenic drives, no paved trails to the overlooks. To see it properly, you need a boat. We were happy to oblige.
Driving Through Minnesota
From North Dakota we turned east into Minnesota, heading for the lake country of the far north. The drive delivered an unexpected treat — mile after mile of sunflowers in full bloom lining the highway. We eventually found a turnoff barely wide enough to squeeze our 63-foot rig and Jeep into position near a field and captured this image. Some photo opportunities require patience; others just require stopping.
The Pines of Kabetogama
Visitor Information — The Pines of Kabetogama: 9880 Gamma Rd, Kabetogama, MN 56669. Phone: (218) 875-2199. Full hookups, lake access, boat rentals available nearby. Website: kabetogama.com.
We stayed at The Pines on Lake Kabetogama — a full-service resort with decent wifi and gorgeous lake views from the site. The layout was, to put it charitably, creative — it had the feel of something designed spontaneously over drinks at the local bar rather than on paper. But the lake view more than compensated, and the location was ideal for getting out onto the water each morning.
The resort had installed a row of decorative fire hydrants along one of the paths — apparently for the dogs. Jake surveyed every single one with great thoroughness. One can never have enough options.
Voyageurs National Park
Visitor Information: Voyageurs National Park, 360 Highway 11 East, International Falls, MN 56649. Phone: (218) 283-6600. Admission: $20/person (7-day pass). The park is accessible by boat only — no roads enter the interior. Boat rentals are available at resorts along Lakes Kabetogama, Namakan, and Rainy. Open: Year-round; water access typically May through October. Website: nps.gov/voya.
Because the park’s interior is accessible only by water, we rented a 20-foot pontoon boat to spend the day exploring Lake Kabetogama’s islands, coves, and boat-in destinations. The lake is enormous — 25,000 acres — and the shoreline feels genuinely wild. No roads, no cars, just water, pine forest, and sky in every direction.
Jake, as it turned out, is firmly a land dog. Even on glassy-calm water with barely a ripple, he was not a fan of the engine vibration underfoot. He spent most of the day stationed at the bow with a look of dignified concern, which was its own form of entertainment.
Bald Eagles are a regular presence on the lakes, though they kept their distance — which is where a long telephoto lens earns its place in the bag. We also spotted white pelicans, cormorants, and gulls working the shallows. The bird life alone makes a day on the water worthwhile.
Ellsworth Rock Gardens
One of the most rewarding boat-in destinations on Lake Kabetogama is Ellsworth Rock Gardens — accessible only by water and entirely free to visit. Between 1944 and 1966, Jack Ellsworth and his wife Elsie spent every summer here, painstakingly arranging thousands of rocks into sculptures, terraced gardens, and cairns across a lakeside hillside. Wildflowers grow among the stonework, and a dock makes it an ideal picnic stop. It’s one of those places that feels almost impossibly serene.
Kettle Falls
Visitor Information — Kettle Falls Hotel: Accessible by boat only — approximately 30 miles by water from the Kabetogama Lake boat launch. Phone: (218) 240-1724. The hotel operates a restaurant and bar open to day visitors arriving by boat. Website: kettlefallshotel.com.
Kettle Falls was once a natural waterfall on the Vermilion River — a significant portage point for the voyageurs and later for loggers. The falls were dammed in the early 20th century to control water levels, but the name stuck. The rushing water through the dam’s spillway is still dramatic, and the location — tucked between Lake Namakan and Rainy Lake at the Canadian border — is wonderfully remote.
Kettle Falls Hotel opened in 1913 — built to serve the loggers, bootleggers, and fishermen who worked this remote corner of the Boundary Waters Wilderness. The National Park Service acquired the hotel in 1976 and did extensive renovations. Today it’s a popular weekend destination for boaters — a cold drink on the porch after a long day on the water feels exactly right.
Voyageurs left us with a deep appreciation for America’s northern border country. There are still places here that feel genuinely untouched — lakes ringed with pine forest, no roads in sight, loons calling across the water at dusk. Every small community we passed through had history, warmth, and a quiet pride in where they live. It’s easy to understand why people who find this place don’t leave.
Practical Tips
Rent a boat — there’s no other way. Voyageurs is a water park. Without a boat, you’re limited to the visitor centers and a handful of short land trails. Pontoon rentals are available at resorts along Lake Kabetogama and are the best way to access Ellsworth Rock Gardens, Kettle Falls, and the park’s many backcountry campsites. Reserve your rental well in advance for summer weekends.
Plan a full day on the water. Ellsworth Rock Gardens and Kettle Falls are both rewarding destinations, but they’re not close together. Map your route in advance and build in time to explore coves and islands along the way. A full day on the water goes quickly.
The Pines of Kabetogama is a solid base camp — full hookups, lake access, and close to boat rentals. Book early in summer. The site layout is unconventional but the lake views compensate.
Bring a telephoto lens. Bald Eagles, osprey, loons, white pelicans, and great blue herons are all common on the lakes, but they won’t let you get close. A long lens makes all the difference for wildlife photography on the water.
Visit Kettle Falls Hotel for lunch or a drink. The boat ride is long but the remote setting and historic character of the hotel make it worthwhile. Check the hotel’s schedule before heading out — hours vary by season.
