Last Updated: July 6, 2026
St. Marks National Wildlife Refuge was established in 1931 to protect the wintering grounds for migratory birds — making it one of the oldest national wildlife refuges in the United States. Encompassing over 68,000 acres of coastal marshes, tidal flats, pine flatwoods, and open Gulf waters along the Apalachee Bay, St. Marks is one of the finest wildlife destinations in the entire southeastern United States. From Manatee Springs, it was an easy three-hour drive north to Crawfordville, Florida — and worth every mile.
Wildwood Golf and RV Resort
Wildwood Golf and RV Resort sits just a few miles from St. Marks National Wildlife Refuge and about fifteen miles south of Tallahassee — close enough to make a Costco run, which on a long road trip qualifies as a genuine luxury. The park offered full hookups and reasonable wifi. But the real revelation was something we noticed in the first hour after parking: five resident white squirrels living in the trees around the sites.
These are not albino squirrels — a distinction worth making. Albinism produces pink eyes from a complete absence of pigmentation. These squirrels had perfectly dark eyes, which identifies their condition as leucism — a partial loss of pigmentation that affects the fur but not the eyes or other tissues. They are a variant of the common eastern grey squirrel, and their white coloration, while striking to us, is genuinely dangerous for them in the wild. Without the camouflage of grey fur, they are far more visible to hawks, owls, and other predators. Partly because of this, truly leucistic white squirrels are rare. Michael, of course, treated the challenge of photographing five skittish, predator-wary white animals moving through dappled shade as an entirely reasonable way to spend the better part of two days.
Visitor Information — Wildwood Golf and RV Resort: Located at 3180 Coastal Highway (US-98), Crawfordville, Florida 32327. Full-hookup RV sites with wifi available. The resort sits adjacent to a golf course and offers a comfortable base for visiting St. Marks National Wildlife Refuge (about 15 minutes south) and Tallahassee (about 20 minutes north). Visit wildwoodgolfrvresort.com for reservations and current site availability.
St. Marks National Wildlife Refuge
The main wildlife drive through St. Marks — Lighthouse Road — runs about seven miles from the refuge entrance to the lighthouse at Apalachee Bay, passing through a remarkable sequence of habitats along the way. Impoundments managed for waterfowl, tidal creeks, pine flatwoods, salt marshes, and open bay all stack up within a few miles of each other, creating incredible biodiversity in a compact area. The technique for finding wildlife here is the same as in any great birding refuge: if there are cars pulled to the side of the road, something is there. The birding community at St. Marks is warm and knowledgeable — fellow visitors consistently pointed out species we might have missed and helped with identifications. We spotted active Bald Eagle nests with eaglets, which were distant but unmistakable through the lens. The number of nests in the area made us wonder how many breeding pairs of eagles call this refuge home.
American Alligators were everywhere along the impoundments and tidal channels — as they tend to be wherever freshwater and warmth coincide in Florida. We genuinely never tire of seeing them. There is something deeply primordial about watching a large alligator lying perfectly still in the winter sun, as ancient and patient as the landscape itself. St. Marks is one of the places where alligators and migratory birds share the same narrow stretches of water, often within yards of each other — and somehow, most of the time, everyone coexists.
St. Marks is a premier birding destination on the Florida Panhandle, and the day we visited delivered exceptional variety. A male Vermilion Flycatcher was the undisputed star of the outing — a brilliant, flame-red bird that looks like it belongs in the American Southwest or south Texas, not the Florida panhandle. A knowledgeable birder stopped to share the sighting and confirmed what we suspected: Vermilion Flycatchers are genuinely rare here, well outside their normal winter range. Finding one at all is the kind of surprise that makes a day of birding memorable for years. Michael made the most of the encounter.
An immature Yellow-rumped Warbler worked the brush nearby — one of the most abundant winter warblers in the eastern United States, and still beautiful for its familiarity. Yellow-rumped Warblers are unusual among warblers in their ability to digest the waxy berries of bayberry and wax myrtle, which lets them winter much farther north than most of their relatives. In Florida they are a common winter presence, and a useful reminder that even the “common” birds reward a closer look.
A Glossy Ibis worked the shallows of one of the impoundments — a bird that looks entirely dark and unremarkable at a distance, but in good light reveals extraordinary iridescent plumage of bronze, chestnut, and metallic green. Glossy Ibis are expanding their range northward in Florida and the Southeast, and St. Marks sits within the heart of their current wintering and breeding territory along the Gulf Coast.
A Common Gallinule (formerly called Common Moorhen before the American Ornithological Society updated the name in 2011) picked its way along the marsh edge — recognizable by its bright red and yellow bill shield and the white flank stripe that flashes as it moves. These are confident, noisy birds that rarely hide, and they are present in the refuge’s managed wetlands year-round.
A Tricolored Heron hunted along the tidal channel edges — one of Florida’s most elegant wading birds, with its slate-blue and chestnut plumage offset by a crisp white belly and a long, pointed bill perfectly adapted for quick strikes at small fish. Tricolored Herons are active, dynamic hunters compared to the statue-like patience of Great Blue Herons — they dart, lean, and rush after prey in a way that is always engaging to watch.
A Belted Kingfisher perched on a branch over the water — rattling its distinctive dry, clattering call before dropping in a steep dive that barely disturbed the surface. Belted Kingfishers are one of the most reliably entertaining birds to photograph: they sit conspicuously in the open, are intensely focused on the water below, and when they dive, they commit completely. St. Marks provides perfect kingfisher habitat wherever the impoundment edges meet clear, shallow water.
Visitor Information — St. Marks National Wildlife Refuge: The refuge is located at 1255 Lighthouse Road, St. Marks, Florida 32355, approximately 18 miles south of Tallahassee. The refuge is open daily during daylight hours; the visitor center is open Monday–Friday 8:00 AM–4:00 PM and weekends 10:00 AM–5:00 PM (seasonal hours may vary). A vehicle fee is charged for entry. Lighthouse Road is the main wildlife drive, running approximately 7 miles from the entrance to the lighthouse. A spotting scope or binoculars are essential — many of the best sightings require distance viewing. Dogs must be kept on leash and are not permitted on some trails. For current birding reports and refuge conditions visit fws.gov/refuge/st-marks. Phone: (850) 925-6121.
St. Marks Lighthouse
The St. Marks Lighthouse stands at the southern end of Lighthouse Road where the marsh meets Apalachee Bay — a striking white tower that has guided mariners through these shallow Gulf waters since 1842. It is actually the third lighthouse built on this site; the original 1829 structure and a second 1831 replacement both failed due to poor construction and the challenging conditions of the soft coastal ground. The current tower, built with stone quarried locally and set on a raised foundation, has stood for well over 180 years.
During the Civil War the lighthouse was a strategically important position, and Union and Confederate forces fought over control of it multiple times. Confederate forces removed the Fresnel lens early in the war to deny Union ships a navigational aid — a tactic used at numerous Gulf Coast lighthouses. The tower survived the war and was restored to service afterward. It was automated in 1960 and continues to serve as an active navigational aid for Apalachee Bay today. The lighthouse is listed on the National Register of Historic Places and is one of the most photographed landmarks in the Florida Panhandle.
Visitor Information — St. Marks Lighthouse: The lighthouse is located at the southern terminus of Lighthouse Road within St. Marks National Wildlife Refuge. It is accessible via the refuge road (vehicle entry fee applies). The tower itself is not open for climbing, but the grounds around the lighthouse are open and offer excellent views of the bay, tidal flats, and surrounding marsh. The lighthouse area is one of the best spots in the refuge for shorebirds and wading birds, particularly at low tide. There is a small picnic area and restrooms near the parking lot.
Practical Tips for St. Marks National Wildlife Refuge
Time your visit for winter or fall for the best wildlife viewing. St. Marks is famous for its autumn monarch butterfly migration — typically peaking in mid-October, when millions of monarchs congregate in the trees along the coast before crossing the Gulf of Mexico. Winter (December through February) brings large concentrations of waterfowl, shorebirds, Bald Eagles, and wintering songbirds. Spring migration brings an entirely different cast of species. Summer is the quietest season for wildlife but the best for wildflowers and wading bird breeding activity.
Drive Lighthouse Road slowly and stop often. The wildlife along the seven-mile drive between the entrance and the lighthouse is the main event. Drive at walking pace, scan every impoundment edge, and stop whenever you see other vehicles pulled over — the birding community here is generous and will often wave you over to share a sighting. A morning visit on a calm day is ideal, as wind can make the impoundment surfaces difficult to read and birds less active.
Bring a spotting scope if you have one. Many of the refuge’s best subjects — eagles in nests, distant waterfowl concentrations, shorebirds on the tidal flats near the lighthouse — require long-distance viewing. Binoculars are the minimum; a spotting scope opens up a significantly richer experience. Michael uses a 500mm lens and still felt the urge for more reach in several spots.
Wildwood Golf and RV Resort is an excellent base. It sits close to both the refuge and Tallahassee, offering easy access to the wildlife while keeping big-city conveniences — including a Costco — within a short drive. The resident white squirrels are an unexpected bonus that will likely consume more of your time than you planned.
The white squirrels at Wildwood are wild and very skittish. They are not hand-tame and will not approach for food. Their entire survival strategy is to stay out of sight. Photographing them requires patience, slow movement, and a telephoto lens. Do not attempt to corner or chase them — not only will it fail, but stressed white animals in an RV park are more vulnerable to the red-shouldered hawks that also live in the area.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is St. Marks National Wildlife Refuge known for? St. Marks NWR is known primarily as a world-class birding destination and one of the premier monarch butterfly migration stopover sites on the Gulf Coast. Established in 1931 as a wintering ground for migratory waterfowl, it now protects over 68,000 acres of diverse coastal habitats. The refuge hosts hundreds of bird species annually including Bald Eagles, wading birds, shorebirds, waterfowl, and a remarkable variety of wintering songbirds. The St. Marks Lighthouse at the end of the main wildlife drive is the refuge’s iconic landmark.
When is the best time to visit St. Marks NWR for birding? Winter (December through February) offers the greatest overall species diversity, with large numbers of ducks, shorebirds, and birds of prey including Bald Eagles. Fall (mid-October) is spectacular for the monarch butterfly migration. Spring brings waves of neotropical migrants passing through on their way north. Each season delivers something different, and the refuge is worth a visit at any time of year.
What wildlife can you see at St. Marks National Wildlife Refuge? The refuge supports an extraordinary diversity of wildlife year-round. Birds commonly seen include Bald Eagles, Ospreys, Roseate Spoonbills, Tricolored Herons, Great Blue Herons, Glossy Ibis, White Ibis, Wood Storks, numerous duck species in winter, and a wide variety of shorebirds and songbirds. American Alligators are present throughout the freshwater and brackish wetlands. River otters, white-tailed deer, and the occasional black bear are also resident in the refuge.
What is the history of the St. Marks Lighthouse? The current St. Marks Lighthouse was built in 1842 — the third lighthouse constructed on this site, replacing two earlier structures that failed due to soft ground and poor construction. It guided Gulf Coast maritime traffic through the shallow waters of Apalachee Bay for over a century before being automated in 1960. During the Civil War the lighthouse changed hands multiple times, and Confederate forces removed its Fresnel lens to deny Union ships a navigational aid. The lighthouse is listed on the National Register of Historic Places and remains an active navigational aid today.
What are the white squirrels at Wildwood Golf and RV Resort? The white squirrels at Wildwood are leucistic eastern grey squirrels — a rare color variant caused by partial pigmentation loss rather than albinism. Unlike albino animals (which have pink eyes from a complete absence of melanin), leucistic animals retain normal eye color. The white coloring makes them significantly more visible to predators than their grey relatives, which is why they are rare in wild populations. Wildwood has maintained a small resident population of these remarkable animals for years, making the RV resort an unexpectedly memorable wildlife stop in its own right.
