Last Updated: July 12, 2026
From Amarillo, Texas, we headed west and then north into the mountains of northern New Mexico — a five-hour drive that climbed steadily from the flat Texas Panhandle to the high alpine country around Eagle Nest at 8,300 feet. The drive itself provided an early complication: somewhere along the route, either diesel fuel contamination with water or the rapid change in altitude was causing the engine to run rough under load. Purging the fuel filter helped, but a visit to the Freightliner dealer in Albuquerque was clearly going to be necessary. We filed it away and pressed on. What was waiting at the end of the drive was worth every mile of it.
Visitor Information — Cimarron Canyon State Park: Located along US Highway 64 between Cimarron and Eagle Nest, NM 87718. Open daily year-round; a day use fee or New Mexico State Parks Pass is required. The park offers fishing on the Cimarron River, hiking trails along the dramatic Palisades cliffs, and excellent wildlife viewing. Phone: (575) 377-6271. Visit emnrd.nm.gov for current conditions and fees.
The Enchanted Circle Scenic Byway
The approach to Eagle Nest follows the Enchanted Circle Scenic Byway — an 83-mile loop through the Sangre de Cristo Mountains that connects Taos, Angel Fire, Eagle Nest, Red River, and Questa in one continuous circuit. It is one of the most beautiful drives in the American Southwest, and the section through Cimarron Canyon State Park is its dramatic centerpiece. The Cimarron River carved a narrow gorge through volcanic rock over millions of years, and the road follows the river through walls of towering granite columns called the Palisades — a canyon passage that feels almost theatrical in its scale and beauty.
We had originally reserved a site in Angel Fire, but the Governor of New Mexico had restricted RV park occupancy to a maximum of 25 percent due to COVID-19. As full-time RVers, the practicality of this troubled us — with over a million people living full-time in their rigs, water, sewer, and electricity are not optional amenities. They are essential utilities. We scrambled and found availability at Golden Eagle RV Park in Eagle Nest instead, which turned out to be a stroke of good fortune.
The drive through the high grasslands approaching Eagle Nest offered something we had not expected: herd after herd of pronghorn antelope grazing and crossing the road without much concern for our slow-rolling motorhome. The pronghorn is the fastest land animal in North America — capable of sustaining speeds of 55 mph for extended distances — and the second fastest land animal in the world after the cheetah. Watching them move across the landscape, those distinctive horns silhouetted against the mountains, was one of the highlights of the entire drive.
Golden Eagle RV Park, Eagle Nest
Golden Eagle RV Park turned out to be exactly what we needed. The owners were warm, knowledgeable, and full of enthusiasm for their region — the kind of hosts who know every back road and wildlife hotspot and are genuinely happy to share them. Under normal circumstances they host BBQs, live music, and wine tastings at the park. COVID had put all of that on hold, but the hospitality came through anyway.
The name of the park was well chosen. Golden eagles were a regular presence in the area — one of the most powerful raptors in North America, with a wingspan that can exceed seven feet. This one had claimed a utility pole as its hunting perch and was watching the prairie dog colony below with a level of focused patience that was remarkable to observe. The prairie dogs, for their part, were going about their business with cheerful obliviousness.
The Eagle Nest and Cimarron areas carry one of the richest and most colorful histories in the American Southwest. The Apache, Ute, and Ancestral Pueblo peoples lived here for centuries before European contact. The region later became a branch of the Santa Fe Trail — one of the great commercial highways of the 19th century — and experienced the full arc of frontier history: mining booms, cattle empires, and the particular brand of violence that defined the era. Kit Carson, the legendary frontiersman and army officer who made his home in Taos for decades, operated throughout this territory. “Black Jack” Ketchum, an outlaw who terrorized the region’s railroads and was ultimately hanged in Clayton in 1901, added his own chapter. In Spanish, Cimarron means “wild and unruly” — and the name fit.
Valle Vidal and Wildlife
Our hosts at Golden Eagle suggested an excursion to Valle Vidal — the “Valley of Life” — a 100,000-acre roadless wilderness unit within Carson National Forest tucked into the highest reaches of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains. The area is legendary among wildlife enthusiasts for its enormous elk herds; during the fall rut, bugling bull elk fill the valley at dawn and dusk. We drove about 25 miles down a remote dirt road, seeing no other vehicles and nobody at all — until we rounded a bend and found a sign posted by order of the New Mexico governor declaring the area off limits due to the coronavirus. We turned around. Twenty-five miles in either direction of no one, declared a public health hazard. The elk were no doubt untroubled by the policy.
We did not find elk, but we found mule deer — and plenty of them. These are large animals; adult bucks can weigh up to 330 pounds. They take their name from their outsized ears, which move independently and give them exceptionally acute hearing. A group of bucks near the road regarded us with the calm, slightly bored assessment that large ungulates have perfected over millennia.
A red-tailed hawk was working the same prairie dog colony as the golden eagle — apparently there was enough business for both. The hawk alternated between perching on a pine branch and making low passes over the colony, wings spread wide. Red-tails are among the most widespread and adaptable raptors in North America, and watching one hunt in the high mountain air of New Mexico felt like a different experience from the suburban red-tails we are used to seeing on highway signs back home.
Jake the dog was every bit as focused on the prairie dog colony as the raptors were — and considerably less subtle about it. Prairie dogs are highly social animals that live in large underground colonies; their alarm calls and sentinel behavior are a fascinating thing to watch once you understand what you are seeing. Jake understood none of the social dynamics but was deeply committed to making his interest known.
Alongside the cattle ranches, several operations in the area run bison herds — a sight that never loses its impact, no matter how many times you encounter it. There is something about seeing bison on the open range that restores a sense of the landscape as it once was. Sandy was inspired enough to plan a painting from the encounter.
Taos, New Mexico
We drove the Enchanted Circle south to Taos, and the stretch between Questa and Taos through the Rio Grande del Norte corridor produced one of the great wildlife moments of the entire trip: bighorn sheep, multiple individuals at close range, moving through the rocky terrain above the road with extraordinary confidence and agility. Rocky Mountain bighorn sheep have hooves specifically designed for cliff travel — concave undersides that grip rock like suction cups. Watching them navigate terrain that would be impassable for any other large mammal is one of those experiences that stops you mid-sentence.
Taos itself is one of the most extraordinary small cities in America — an ancient art colony at 6,967 feet, home to one of the oldest continuously inhabited communities on the continent. Taos Pueblo, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, has been continuously occupied for over 1,000 years and remains home to the Taos Pueblo people today. The town built up around it over the centuries as a Spanish colonial settlement and later became a magnet for artists — Georgia O’Keeffe, Ansel Adams, and D.H. Lawrence all spent significant time here. Kit Carson’s home, now a museum, sits in the heart of town. The galleries, restaurants, and the extraordinary landscape of the Rio Grande Gorge just west of the city make Taos one of the places we most want to return to properly. During our COVID visit, nearly all of it was closed. We drove through, took in what we could from the road, and made our list for next time.
Red River, New Mexico
Red River sits at about 8,750 feet in a narrow valley carved by its namesake river, surrounded by the peaks of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains. It is primarily known as a ski destination — Red River Ski Area is a compact, family-friendly mountain with a genuine old-west mining town aesthetic — but in summer and fall it draws hikers, fly fishermen, and motorcyclists riding the Enchanted Circle. Snow was still on the upper slopes when we passed through in late April, the lifts still, the town almost entirely shut down. Taos Ski Valley, just a few miles further along the byway, is widely regarded as one of the premier ski mountains in the American Southwest. We will have to come back when the snow is deep and the lifts are running.
The hardest part of traveling through northern New Mexico during COVID-19 was the particular cruelty of passing one extraordinary place after another — hiking trails, galleries, breweries, wineries, hot springs — and being unable to stop. The Enchanted Circle region is the kind of place that deserves a dedicated week, not a pass-through. We will be back.
Practical Tips for the Enchanted Circle and Eagle Nest Area
Drive the full Enchanted Circle loop. The 83-mile circuit connecting Taos, Angel Fire, Eagle Nest, Red River, and Questa is one of the most scenic drives in New Mexico. Allow a full day if you want to stop and explore along the way. The loop is manageable in a passenger vehicle; large RVs should check road conditions and turning radii at Red River before committing to the full loop.
Look for bighorn sheep between Questa and Taos. The highway through the Rio Grande del Norte corridor is one of the most reliable places in New Mexico to spot Rocky Mountain bighorn sheep. They are frequently seen on the rocky slopes close to the road, especially in early morning. Pull completely off the pavement and give them space.
Valle Vidal requires planning. The road to Valle Vidal is unpaved and can be rough; high-clearance vehicles are recommended. The area is typically accessible from May through November depending on snowmelt. Fall is the prime season for elk viewing — the bugling rut peaks in late September and early October. Check with Carson National Forest for current road and access conditions before making the drive.
Eagle Nest Lake is excellent for fishing. Eagle Nest Lake State Park offers some of the best high-altitude fishing in New Mexico — rainbow trout and kokanee salmon are the primary targets. A New Mexico fishing license is required. The lake sits at 8,200 feet and the views across the water to the Sangre de Cristo peaks are stunning.
Taos deserves its own dedicated visit. Taos Pueblo, the Rio Grande Gorge Bridge, the historic plaza, and the gallery district all warrant far more time than a drive-through allows. Plan to spend at least two to three days if you want to experience the town properly. The shoulder seasons — late spring and early fall — offer comfortable temperatures and fewer crowds than summer.
Altitude adjustment is real. Eagle Nest sits at 8,300 feet and Red River at 8,750 feet. If you are coming from lower elevations, give yourself a day to acclimatize before attempting strenuous hikes. Drink extra water and be aware that alcohol hits harder at altitude.
For more of our spring 2020 road trip through the Southwest, see our previous stop at Cadillac Ranch and Palo Duro Canyon in Amarillo, Texas.
