Last Updated: May 2026
Willcox sits in the Sulphur Springs Valley at 4,167 feet — cooler and wetter than the desert floor at Tucson or Phoenix, and surrounded by some of the most historically significant and visually dramatic country in southeastern Arizona. We’ve stopped here twice, drawn first by the wine country and again in spring 2020 when we needed a low-key base after a long drive from Elephant Butte, New Mexico. The wineries were closed on that 2020 visit — COVID stay-at-home orders were in effect — but the backcountry around Willcox was very much open, and we spent a week exploring Chiricahua National Monument’s back roads, the Fort Bowie National Historic Site, and the remote Leslie Canyon National Wildlife Refuge. The area more than earned its place on our return list.
Willcox, Arizona
Willcox is in Cochise County — the same county as Tombstone, Bisbee, and the Chiricahua Mountains. The Sulphur Springs Valley is a broad agricultural basin that occasionally holds a seasonal lake, the Willcox Playa — a remnant of ancient Lake Cochise that for most of the year is a large, dry, dusty lake bed. The elevation gives Willcox a noticeably milder climate than the lower Sonoran Desert: cooler summers, more rainfall, and cold winters. That combination of elevation, soil, and diurnal temperature swings makes it one of the most productive wine-growing areas in Arizona — the Willcox area produces approximately 74 percent of Arizona’s wine grapes.
Freight trains run through Willcox day and night — but without horns, which keeps the ambient noise at a low, distant rumble.
From Elephant Butte, New Mexico we traveled about 4 hours though an insane amount of bugs to reach Arizona. This was the jeep windshield after 2 hours of driving and after cleaning it at a gas station. Disgusting.
Despite the 95°F daytime heat, late April still had wildflowers blooming in the valley — the higher elevation extends the spring season well past what you’d find in the lower desert.
Grande Vista RV Park
Grande Vista RV Park had full hookups, fast WiFi, and was nearly empty when we arrived — exactly what we were looking for in April 2020. The staff were excellent and the price was reasonable. While we were there, we discovered that the Roadmaster tow bar baseplate was detaching from the Jeep — Camping World had neither torqued nor applied Loctite Red to the bolts at original installation. Sandy did the heavy lifting while Michael handled the tools; Roadmaster sent a repair kit for free, YouTube provided the instructions. Two hours and we were considerably more confident pulling the Jeep than we’d been for the previous thousand miles.
Chiricahua National Monument
Chiricahua National Monument was closed to visitors in spring 2020. We’d been before and knew what we were missing: the remarkable rhyolite rock pinnacles and balanced rocks formed by a catastrophic volcanic eruption 27 million years ago. With the monument closed, we found high-clearance back roads adjacent to the boundary that gave access to low-use trails in the surrounding Coronado National Forest. Not the same as the monument itself — but the landscape is spectacular throughout this range and the solitude was complete.
The claret cup cactus were blooming in the backcountry — those intensely scarlet-red flowers that seem almost too vivid to be real against the gray and tan of the rocky terrain.
The Chiricahuas are one of the most biodiverse mountain ranges in North America — a Sky Island bridging the Rocky Mountains and Sierra Madre, home to elegant trogons, Mexican spotted owls, coati, black bear, and white-tailed deer. We were moving too quickly and on the wrong roads for most of the good habitat. We’ll do it properly on a dedicated future visit.
Visitor Information: Chiricahua National Monument is about 36 miles southeast of Willcox on AZ-186. Current hours, fees, and conditions at nps.gov/chir. America the Beautiful pass accepted.
Fort Bowie National Historic Site
Fort Bowie National Historic Site is one of the most historically significant and least-visited sites in the American Southwest — which makes it consistently one of our favorites. NPS facilities were closed during our 2020 visit but the trails were open, and volunteer rangers were still on site and genuinely happy to talk. The hike is about 3 miles round trip at around 5,000 feet — easy enough for Jake, with historic markers along the way that tell the full Apache Wars story from establishment of the post through Geronimo’s surrender.
The story centers on Apache Pass — the critical water source at Apache Spring that both the Butterfield Overland Mail and the U.S. Army needed to control the route between the Rio Grande and California. Fort Bowie was established in 1862 by California Volunteers and expanded in 1868 into a permanent installation. The Apache Wars continued until Geronimo’s final surrender in 1886, after which the Chiricahua Apache were shipped to Florida and Alabama as prisoners of war — we cover Geronimo’s imprisonment at Fort Pickens on the Gulf Coast in our Gulf Islands National Seashore post. The fort was abandoned in 1894.
The cemetery near the trail predates the fort, contains 112 graves, and is remarkably well preserved. The site’s isolation, the scale of what happened here, and the absence of crowds give Fort Bowie a weight that many more-visited historic sites can’t match.
Visitor Information: Fort Bowie is off Apache Pass Road, approximately 22 miles southeast of Willcox. There is no road access to the ruins — the 1.5-mile trail is the only way in. No entrance fee. Dogs permitted on the trail on leash. Current conditions at nps.gov/fobo.
Leslie Canyon National Wildlife Refuge
Leslie Canyon National Wildlife Refuge was established to protect two critically endangered fish species: the Yaqui chub and the Yaqui topminnow, both native to the Yaqui River drainage of northern Mexico and found in only a handful of U.S. locations. The refuge encompasses a narrow riparian corridor in a remote canyon near the Mexican border — startling to encounter in the middle of dry southern Arizona. The hiking trail was open during our visit; the access roads were dirt, remote, and entirely empty.
Visitor Information: Leslie Canyon NWR is approximately 25 miles southeast of Douglas, Arizona via dirt roads. High clearance vehicles recommended. Managed by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service — information at fws.gov/refuge/leslie-canyon. No entrance fee.
Willcox Wine Country
The Willcox wine region produces approximately 74 percent of Arizona’s wine grapes. The elevation (most vineyards sit between 4,000 and 5,000 feet) and diurnal temperature swings create ideal conditions for concentrated flavors and good natural acidity. We’d wine-tasted here on a previous trip and were impressed; on our 2020 visit the tasting rooms were closed under COVID orders. We later tasted Flying Leap Vineyards’ Willcox-sourced grenache at their Tubac tasting room in spring 2021 — very good wine. The tasting rooms are now fully open and worth building into any visit.
Practical Tips
Willcox as a base: The location is excellent — within an hour of Chiricahua National Monument, Fort Bowie, Dragoon/Cochise Stronghold, Tombstone, Bisbee, and the Sonoita wine country. Grande Vista RV Park is our recommendation for budget-conscious RV travelers: full hookups, reliable WiFi, quiet. Wine tasting: Tasting rooms are clustered on and around Highway 186 south of town — check the Willcox Wine Region website for current locations and hours. Fort Bowie timing: The trail is fully exposed — go early, especially in spring and summer. Leslie Canyon: High clearance vehicle strongly recommended; do not attempt after heavy rain.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is Willcox, Arizona worth visiting? Yes — particularly for history, wine, or the Sky Island mountain ranges. Fort Bowie, Chiricahua National Monument, and the Willcox wine country in a single base make it one of the most content-rich areas in southeastern Arizona.
What is the Willcox wine region? Willcox and the Sulphur Springs Valley produce approximately 74 percent of Arizona’s wine grapes. High elevation (4,000–5,000 feet) and large diurnal temperature swings suit varietals like grenache, tempranillo, malvasia, and viognier. The Sonoita-Elgin area to the west is Arizona’s other significant wine region — see our Sonoita post.
What is Fort Bowie National Historic Site? Fort Bowie protects the ruins of a U.S. Army fort established in 1862 in Apache Pass — a critical water source through the Dos Cabezas Mountains. The site is central to the history of the Apache Wars; Geronimo surrendered nearby in 1886 and was subsequently imprisoned at Fort Pickens, Florida — see our Gulf Islands National Seashore post for that story. Accessible only via a 1.5-mile hiking trail with no vehicle access to the ruins. No entrance fee.
What is Chiricahua National Monument? A remarkable landscape of volcanic rock pinnacles and balanced rocks in the Chiricahua Mountains — one of the most biodiverse Sky Island ranges in North America, with exceptional wildlife including species found nowhere else in the United States. Current information at nps.gov/chir.
