Last Updated: July 17, 2026
After a busy summer in San Diego catching up on house repairs, RV service, and a string of medical procedures, we were finally ready to hit the road again. Our route took us north through Nevada and Utah before crossing into Wyoming’s Star Valley — a part of the country we had visited years ago but were thrilled to rediscover. Fall colors were just beginning to show their brilliance, and the mountain air felt like a reward after months at sea level.
Beaver, Utah
Our first stop heading north from San Diego was an overnight in Las Vegas at Oasis RV Resort — a convenient fuel-and-rest stop after a long drive through the Nevada and Arizona deserts. The next day we pushed on to Beaver, Utah, where we stayed at the KOA, which had all the essentials: full hookups, clean facilities, and an easy location for exploring the small historic town. Beaver punches well above its size with handsome pioneer-era architecture, colorful building murals celebrating the region’s wildlife, and a surprising culinary gem just off the highway.
The Creamery was a perfect stop after a couple of days on the road. With deep roots in Beaver’s dairy farming history, The Creamery produces small-batch cheeses and ice cream that are worth a detour on their own. We indulged in their ice cream and left with two cheeses tucked in the cooler — a gouda and a green onion jack that turned out to be excellent camping companions over the following days.
Not every moment on the road is glamorous. While filling up with diesel at a Pilot travel center, Sandy’s flip flop blew out and she hit the pavement on all fours, scraping both knees. She was a trooper about it — margaritas were declared the official medicine of the evening, and the knees healed just fine.
Heber City, Utah
Heber City sits at about 5,600 feet elevation in Wasatch County, Utah, cradled by mountains that seem to rise in every direction. After months at sea level in San Diego, it took a day to adjust to the altitude — but what a place to acclimatize. Our first outing took us into Provo Canyon to see Bridal Veil Falls, a dramatic two-tiered waterfall that drops nearly 600 feet down a near-vertical cliff face. It’s one of the most photogenic spots in the region and well worth the short walk from the parking area.
Heber City was first settled in 1859 and has maintained much of its small-town Western character while growing into a popular four-season destination. The valley is ringed by three large reservoirs and sits within 30 minutes of some of Utah’s most celebrated ski areas — Park City, Deer Valley, and Sundance among them — places we had visited many times over the years as a skiing family.
We drove the Big Cottonwood Canyon Scenic Byway, one of Utah’s most beautiful canyon roads. The aspen trees were just beginning their fall transformation — flickers of gold and orange against the evergreen slopes. Jake had a wonderful time on the trails, sniffing every rock and log with characteristic enthusiasm. We think he may be part mountain goat.
Sundance Mountain Resort, Heber City
Sundance holds a very special place in our hearts. About 25 years ago, Michael proposed here on the mountain — not quite in the way he had planned. He had carefully packed champagne and chocolates, but hiding them while skiing all day without falling was a feat unto itself. Michael claims he post-holed while eating lunch in the snow; Sandy interpreted it as kneeling and said “I will” before he could even ask. Returning to this beautiful resort after all these years brought back a flood of happy memories, and we were grateful to wander the grounds together on a crisp fall afternoon.
Mountain Valley RV Resort, Heber City, Utah
Mountain Valley RV Resort was an excellent base for exploring Heber City. Surrounded by mountain views on every side, the resort offered full hookups, generously sized sites, a large dedicated dog park (Jake approved), an adults-only pool, spa, and gym, and reliable internet service. It’s one of those parks that ticks every box — we would not hesitate to book it again on a future Utah trip.
Thayne, Wyoming
From Heber City we headed north into Wyoming’s Star Valley, settling in at the Wolf Den RV Park in Thayne. The park had large gravel sites with full hookups and dependable internet — everything we need as full-timers. Thayne itself is a quiet ranching community, but the surrounding Star Valley is stunning: broad meadows ringed by aspen and pine-covered mountains, with the Salt River cutting through the valley floor. It’s the kind of landscape that makes you want to slow down and stay longer.
Just south of Thayne is Afton, Wyoming, home to the world’s largest elk antler arch. More than 3,000 naturally shed antlers were woven together to construct the arch, which spans the width of the main street and has become the defining symbol of this small town. It’s an impressive and unusual landmark — well worth a short drive to see and photograph in person.
One of the most remarkable natural phenomena in the area is Periodic Spring, located in Swift Creek Canyon near Afton. Recognized as the largest rhythmic spring in the world, its on-and-off flow is caused by a natural siphon: water fills an underground cavern, the siphon activates and drains it completely, then breaks — only for the cycle to begin again. The result is a spring that surges and stops on a repeating schedule. We were lucky enough to arrive at just the right moment to watch the spring switch from a trickle to a rushing stream and back again. It sounds like something from a geology textbook, but watching it happen live is genuinely magical.
The hike to Periodic Spring is easy and family-friendly — dog-friendly too, which Jake appreciated enormously. The trail winds along Swift Creek through a shady canyon, and we think Jake may be part billy goat given how eagerly he scrambled over every rock and root along the way.
Also in Swift Creek Canyon is Janet Falls, a lovely waterfall tucked within the same drainage. It’s a worthwhile add-on if you’re already making the trip out to Periodic Spring — both hikes together make for a satisfying half-day in the mountains.
Jackson, Wyoming
We drove north along the Snake River to Jackson — a route of extraordinary beauty, with the river glinting below and the Tetons materializing on the horizon. Jackson is a vibrant small town that punches well above its weight: world-class skiing, galleries, fine restaurants, live music, and boutique shops, all framed by the grandeur of Grand Teton and Yellowstone National Parks just up the road. Even with COVID protocols in place, the town had energy and life.
The highlight of our Jackson day was a visit to the National Museum of Wildlife Art, set dramatically into a hillside overlooking the National Elk Refuge. The museum holds one of the most significant collections of wildlife art in North America — paintings, sculptures, and photography spanning centuries and continents. We spent a couple of leisurely hours moving through the galleries, genuinely impressed by both the quality of the work and the way the region’s natural history is woven throughout.
After touring the galleries we had lunch at the museum’s restaurant — a genuinely good meal with mountain views. Sandy ordered the bison gyro and declared it a trip highlight. This was our first time dining indoors since March, and the restaurant handled COVID protocols thoughtfully: diners were seated at every other table, and masks were worn by everyone except while eating. It felt both safe and wonderfully normal.
Visitor Information
Mountain Valley RV Resort is located at 2400 S. Highway 40, Heber City, UT 84032. The resort offers full hookups, large pull-through and back-in sites, a dedicated dog park, adults-only pool and spa, fitness center, and reliable WiFi. Call (435) 654-5455 or visit mountainvalleyrvresort.com for reservations.
The Creamery is located at 580 N. Main Street, Beaver, UT 84713. They produce artisan cheeses, ice cream, and other dairy products with a long history in Beaver County. Visit thecreameryutah.com for current hours and product offerings.
Periodic Spring is accessed via Swift Creek Road approximately 5 miles east of Afton, Wyoming. The round-trip hike is roughly 4 miles on an easy-to-moderate trail through Swift Creek Canyon. Dogs are welcome on leash; no admission fee. Open seasonally — best visited late summer through fall when the rhythmic flow is most dramatic.
National Museum of Wildlife Art is located at 2820 Rungius Road, Jackson, WY 83001, overlooking the National Elk Refuge. The museum is open daily; general admission fees apply with discounts available for seniors and members. The on-site restaurant is open to the public and parking is free. Visit wildlifeart.org for current hours and exhibitions.
Wolf Den RV Park is located in Thayne, Wyoming, in the heart of Star Valley. The park offers full hookup gravel sites with good internet in a quiet setting convenient to Afton, Periodic Spring, and the drive north to Jackson.
Practical Tips
Time your visit for fall color. Late September to early October is peak timing for fall foliage in both the Heber City/Big Cottonwood Canyon area and Wyoming’s Star Valley. Aspens typically turn in the third week of September at elevation — check the local ranger station websites for current conditions before heading out, as the window can be short.
Plan your Periodic Spring visit for late summer or fall. The rhythmic flow is most dramatic when the water table is high, typically August through October. Earlier in summer the effect may be less pronounced. Arrive with patience — the cycle repeats every few minutes, so give yourself time to watch a full surge and stop before heading back down.
Sundance is beautiful year-round. While best known as a ski destination and host of the Sundance Film Festival, the resort is lovely in fall for hiking, the artist studios, the spa, and the excellent Tree Room restaurant. Day visitors are welcome and no lift ticket is needed to explore the grounds — just expect the parking lot to fill up on weekends.
Book ahead for Jackson-area RV parks. Grand Teton and Yellowstone proximity makes this one of the most visited corridors in the West. RV sites within range of Jackson sell out months in advance, especially for summer and early fall. If you’re visiting in September, reserve your site by May or June at the latest.
Dog-friendly trails in the area. Both the Big Cottonwood Canyon Scenic Byway trails and the Swift Creek/Periodic Spring trail welcome leashed dogs. Bring plenty of water for your pup — the canyon trails have creek access but mountain water should always be treated. Check current trail conditions at the local ranger district website before heading out.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is Periodic Spring and why is it unusual? Periodic Spring near Afton, Wyoming is considered the largest rhythmic or intermittent spring in the world. Unlike a typical spring that flows continuously, it surges and stops on a repeating cycle caused by a natural underground siphon. Water fills a subterranean cavern, the siphon activates and drains it, then breaks — and the cycle begins again. The result is a creek that turns on and off every few minutes, which is genuinely fascinating to watch in person.
Is Sundance Mountain Resort worth visiting when there’s no snow? Absolutely. While Sundance is famous as a ski destination and home of the Sundance Film Festival, fall is one of its loveliest times. The surrounding Wasatch Mountains are draped in golden aspens, the resort’s restaurants and shops are open, and the grounds are peaceful. The canyon drive alone is worth the trip, and it holds special meaning for us — Michael proposed here about 25 years ago.
What is the antler arch in Afton, Wyoming? The antler arch in Afton is the world’s largest elk antler arch, constructed from more than 3,000 naturally shed elk antlers woven together into a massive structure spanning the main street. Elk naturally shed their antlers each year, so no animals were harmed. It’s a beloved local landmark and a fun photo stop on the drive through Star Valley.
Is the National Museum of Wildlife Art in Jackson worth visiting? We think so, even if you’re not a dedicated art fan. The collection is exceptional — spanning centuries and styles from John James Audubon to contemporary Western artists — and the building itself is architecturally remarkable, built into a hillside overlooking the National Elk Refuge. Budget at least two hours, and don’t skip the restaurant.
What is there to do near Thayne, Wyoming? Star Valley’s surroundings offer far more than the small town suggests. The area has excellent fishing on the Salt River, hiking in Bridger-Teton National Forest (including Periodic Spring and Janet Falls), and easy day trips to Afton and Jackson. In late September the valley’s aspen groves are spectacular, and wildlife sightings — deer, moose, and raptors — are common along the back roads.
