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Traveling Huntleys

Inspiring travel stories, tips, and guides from a couple exploring the world one destination at a time.

Ouray, Mount Sneffels & Silverton, Colorado

November 6, 2020 by Michael Huntley

Last Updated: July 19, 2026

Ouray was established by gold and silver miners around 1875, when precious metals were extracted from these rugged and colorful San Juan Mountains. The mountainsides still show remnants of miners’ tailings and dilapidated structures — ghosts of a boom era that shaped this corner of Colorado. Today the area is all about tourism: ice climbing, hiking, mountain biking, and hundreds of miles of Jeep trails offer stunning views and a sense of genuine remoteness that’s hard to find anywhere else. Ouray sits about an hour’s drive south of Montrose, tucked into a dramatic box canyon in the San Juan Mountains — a setting so spectacular it’s earned the town the nickname “the Switzerland of America.”

An abandoned gold and silver mine building in the San Juan Mountains above Ouray, Colorado, remnant of the town's 19th-century mining history

Ouray, Colorado

Visitor Information — Ouray, Colorado: Ouray is located at 7,792 feet elevation in the San Juan Mountains of southwest Colorado, approximately 70 miles north of Durango and 23 miles south of Montrose via US-550. The Ouray Visitor Center is at 1230 Main St, Ouray, CO 81427; phone (800) 228-1876; website ouraycolorado.com. The Ouray Hot Springs Pool at 1200 Main St is open year-round, typically daily 10am–9pm; admission approximately $12–$15 for adults (check current hours and rates at ourayhotsprings.com). Most restaurants and shops operate seasonally, with peak activity from June through October. The town is busiest in summer and during ice climbing season (January–February).

Historic Main Street in Ouray, Colorado, a mountain town nestled in a dramatic box canyon in the San Juan Mountains

Only about one thousand people call Ouray home year-round. The city has all the bars, restaurants, and visitor amenities you’d expect, but it doesn’t look dramatically different than it did 35 years ago — and that’s entirely a good thing. This part of Colorado is absolutely stunning, and photographs genuinely fail to capture what it feels like to be here.

Brilliant red rock cliffs and fall foliage in the San Juan Mountains surrounding Ouray, Colorado in late October

Summer wildflowers and fall aspen colors are spectacular. Even though Ouray enjoys over 300 sunny days per year, the elevation keeps winters cold and snowy. Because of its mountain isolation, the rapid Colorado population growth isn’t nearly as noticeable here. The San Juan Mountains are also where, in the winter of 1874, Alferd Packer — the Colorado Cannibal — consumed five of his fellow prospectors amid the brutal conditions near Lake City. Michael spent many hours studying in the Alferd Packer Grill at the University of Colorado, Boulder, during his college years there.

Golden evening light over the San Juan Mountains surrounding Ouray, Colorado in late October
Our Newmar motorhome parked at the Ouray KOA campground beside a mountain stream in Ouray, Colorado
Our Newmar motorhome facing a rushing mountain creek at the Ouray KOA campground, Colorado

We stayed at the Ouray KOA. They offered full hookups and the typical near-nonexistent campground wifi, but the site was quiet and a mountain stream ran right past the front of the coach. Surprisingly, they had an on-site restaurant — though hours were limited this late in the season, and COVID had reduced them further.

Yankee Boy Basin, Ouray, Colorado

Visitor Information — Yankee Boy Basin & Mount Sneffels Wilderness: Yankee Boy Basin is accessed via Camp Bird Road from Ouray (follow 4th Avenue west, then south on Camp Bird Road). A high-clearance 4WD vehicle is required for the upper basin road. The basin sits at approximately 11,000–12,500 feet elevation within the Uncompahgre National Forest; access is free. The Mount Sneffels Wilderness trailhead at the end of the road leads to Mount Sneffels summit (14,150 ft), one of Colorado’s 58 fourteeners. For trail conditions and road status, visit fs.usda.gov/gmug. Best wildflower season is mid-July through early August; peak fall color typically runs late September through mid-October.

The rugged 4WD dirt road leading up to Yankee Boy Basin through the San Juan Mountains near Ouray, Colorado

The drive to Yankee Boy Basin was scenic from the first mile. Eventually the road required four-wheel drive, but the remoteness and near-total absence of other people made it feel like we had the mountains to ourselves — a rare and welcome thing.

Mount Sneffels rising to 14,150 feet in the San Juan Mountains near Ouray, Colorado, one of Colorado's celebrated fourteeners

Yankee Boy Basin is an alpine meadow that fills with wildflowers in summer and glows with golden aspen in fall. It’s also where the trailhead for Mount Sneffels begins — a fourteener at 14,150 feet that Michael climbed in his twenties, a long time ago. This visit, we were perfectly content to take in the views from the basin floor.

Jake the dog enjoying time off leash beside a mountain waterfall at Yankee Boy Basin near Mount Sneffels, Colorado

Jake had a wonderful time off leash with virtually no one else around — one of the great pleasures of visiting the high country late in the season.

A Canada Jay (Gray Jay) perched on a rock at Yankee Boy Basin near Ouray, Colorado — the bird locals call a campground robber
Canada Jays — formerly called Gray Jays, still known locally as campground robbers
Yarrow wildflowers still blooming in late October at Yankee Boy Basin in the San Juan Mountains near Ouray, Colorado
Dramatic rock formations and rugged alpine terrain at Yankee Boy Basin in the Uncompahgre National Forest, Colorado

We didn’t encounter much wildlife — we should have left a bit earlier in the morning for that. We were surprised to find a few flowers still blooming this late in the year. Canada Jays (formerly called Gray Jays) are always present in the high country, though they rarely hold still long enough for a clean photograph.

Dr. Michael Huntley, Sandy Huntley, and Jake the dog posed beside a waterfall at Yankee Boy Basin near Mount Sneffels, Colorado
A cascading waterfall in Yankee Boy Basin below the Mount Sneffels Wilderness trailhead in the San Juan Mountains, Colorado

We came across a couple of beautiful small waterfalls tucked into the basin — perfect spots to stop, breathe the thin air, and take it all in.

Red Mountain Pass & the Million Dollar Highway

A waterfall tumbling beside the Million Dollar Highway on US-550 near Red Mountain Pass, Colorado

The drive over 11,018-foot Red Mountain Pass along the Million Dollar Highway (US-550) to Silverton is one of the most breathtaking stretches of road in the American West. The highway earned its colorful name from the gold-bearing gravel originally used in its construction — or, depending on which legend you prefer, from the staggering cost of blasting it through sheer mountain faces. Either way, the name fits.

Dr. Michael Huntley MD travel blogger photographer standing beside the vivid orange Uncompahgre River below Red Mountain Pass, Ouray, Colorado, stained by acid mine drainage
The bright orange waters of the Uncompahgre River below Red Mountain Pass, Colorado, colored by iron and heavy metals leaching from abandoned mine tailings

The river running alongside the road was a striking shade of orange — an unusual and almost otherworldly sight. The color comes from decades of acidic leaching from the multitude of abandoned mines upriver. Lead, copper, zinc, and iron from the mine tailings discolor the water of the Uncompahgre River — a Ute word meaning “red water” — creating a vivid rust-orange palette that is simultaneously beautiful and sobering. It’s a stark reminder that mining left lasting environmental consequences in these mountain watersheds.

A Steller's Jay perched in a conifer in the San Juan Mountains near Ouray, Colorado, identified by its black crest and vivid blue plumage
A vintage mountain rescue vehicle on display in historic downtown Ouray, Colorado, a nod to the town's rugged backcountry heritage

Silverton, Colorado

Visitor Information — Silverton, Colorado: Silverton is a National Historic Landmark district at 9,318 feet elevation in San Juan County, approximately 23 miles south of Ouray via the Million Dollar Highway (US-550). The Silverton Visitor Center is at 414 Greene St, Silverton, CO 81433; phone (970) 387-5654; website silverton.org. The Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad — a National Historic Landmark in its own right — operates seasonal excursions between Durango and Silverton; tickets and schedules at durangotrain.com. Most Silverton businesses operate late May through October.

Silverton is a former mining town now almost entirely dependent on tourism and the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad. The well-preserved Victorian streetscape gives it an authentically historic feel. We had lunch, explored the main drag, and then made the dramatic drive back over Red Mountain Pass to Ouray — a return trip that’s just as spectacular as the first time through.

Practical Tips for Visiting Ouray & the San Juan Mountains

Bring a 4WD vehicle — or rent a Jeep in town. The lower portion of Camp Bird Road to Yankee Boy Basin is manageable in most vehicles, but the upper basin requires high-clearance 4WD. Without it, you’ll need to park lower and hike — which adds significant mileage at high altitude. Jeep rentals and guided 4WD tours are readily available in Ouray if you’re arriving in a standard vehicle.

Start early for the best wildlife viewing. The alpine terrain around Yankee Boy Basin harbors marmots, pikas, mountain goats, and a variety of raptors — but most activity happens in the early morning hours. We arrived mid-morning and missed most of it. Aim to be on the road by 7 or 8 a.m. for the best chance at sightings, and you’ll also beat the afternoon thunderstorms that build over the peaks in summer.

Time your visit to what you most want to see. For wildflowers, mid-July through early August is peak season in Yankee Boy Basin. For fall color, late September to mid-October is spectacular, with golden aspen lining every canyon. We visited in late October and caught the tail end of fall — still beautiful, but the peak was behind us. Winter brings world-class ice climbing in the Ouray Ice Park, which is free and open to the public.

Respect the altitude. Ouray sits at nearly 8,000 feet and Yankee Boy Basin climbs above 12,500 feet. If you’re arriving from sea level, give yourself at least a day to acclimate before strenuous hiking. Altitude sickness — headache, nausea, fatigue, shortness of breath — is genuinely common here and can ruin an otherwise spectacular trip. Drink extra water, avoid alcohol the first day, and take it slow.

Drive the Million Dollar Highway with full attention. US-550 between Ouray and Silverton is one of the most spectacular and genuinely thrilling mountain drives in the country — narrow, steep, and with very limited guardrails in places. Take it slow, yield to oncoming traffic, and do not let the views pull your eyes from the road. Drive it in both directions if you can, because the perspective changes completely going uphill versus down.

Soak in the Ouray Hot Springs after a day in the mountains. The Ouray Hot Springs Pool is a genuine local institution — geothermal pools ranging from warm to quite hot, open year-round. After miles of hiking or Jeeping at altitude, a long soak is exactly what your legs need. It’s especially magical in the evening when the canyon walls catch the last of the light.

Book early if visiting in summer. Ouray is a small town that fills up fast in July and August. The Ouray KOA offers full hookups with a mountain stream running alongside — a wonderful setup for RV travelers. For summer visits, reserve your campsite or hotel months in advance. Late September and October are slightly less crowded, with the bonus of fall color and cooler temperatures.

Frequently Asked Questions About Ouray, Colorado

When is the best time to visit Ouray, Colorado? Ouray is a genuine four-season destination. Summer (June–August) brings wildflowers, hiking, and Jeeping in the San Juan Mountains. Fall (September–October) delivers spectacular aspen color in the canyons and far fewer crowds than summer. Winter is famous for the Ouray Ice Park, a free man-made ice climbing venue that draws climbers from around the world. Spring can be muddy and unpredictable at higher elevations, though the town itself is lovely.

Do I need a 4WD vehicle to visit Yankee Boy Basin? Yes, for the upper portion you do. The Camp Bird Road is a graded dirt road at first, but past a certain point it becomes steep, rocky, and narrow — high-clearance 4WD is essential. Jeep rentals are available in Ouray for visitors without one. The lower section still offers beautiful scenery and is accessible in a standard vehicle, so don’t skip it entirely if you can’t make it all the way up.

Is Mount Sneffels difficult to climb? Mount Sneffels (14,150 ft) is considered a moderately difficult fourteener, rated Class 3 — meaning some hands-and-feet scrambling is required, especially near the summit. It’s one of the more popular fourteeners in Colorado because of its accessibility from Yankee Boy Basin, but it should not be underestimated. Start early to avoid afternoon thunderstorms, which are common in summer at this elevation. Solid boots, layers, and a map are essential.

What is the Million Dollar Highway? The Million Dollar Highway is the stretch of US-550 between Ouray and Silverton that crosses Red Mountain Pass at 11,018 feet. It’s one of the most famous mountain roads in the United States — carved from sheer cliff faces with limited guardrails and stunning views in every direction. The name’s origin is disputed: some say it refers to the gold-bearing gravel used in construction, others to the cost of building it. Whichever story you prefer, the road fully lives up to the name.

What causes the orange color in the Uncompahgre River? The vivid orange color comes from acid mine drainage — acidic water seeping through the rock and tailings of the many abandoned mines in the mountains above Red Mountain Pass. As the water flows downhill it picks up iron, lead, copper, and zinc, creating an iron oxide-rich solution that stains the riverbed and water a bright rust-orange. The word “Uncompahgre” comes from the Ute language and roughly means “red water” — suggesting the river had some natural coloration even before the mining era altered it dramatically.

Is there a free ice climbing area in Ouray? Yes — the Ouray Ice Park is one of the most unique attractions in Colorado and it’s completely free to access. The park is created each winter by piping water from a local creek over a series of canyon walls, forming a massive complex of ice routes ranging from beginner to expert. It typically opens in January and runs through late February or early March depending on temperatures. Even if you’re not climbing, walking through the park and watching climbers scale the ice is an extraordinary experience.

How far is Ouray from other Colorado destinations? Ouray is approximately 325 miles and five to six hours from Denver. It’s about 70 miles north of Durango (roughly 1.5 hours via the scenic Million Dollar Highway) and 23 miles south of Montrose (about 40 minutes). Telluride is roughly 50 miles away by road (about 1.5 hours) or just 12 miles as the crow flies over the mountains. Most visitors combine Ouray with Telluride, Silverton, and Durango for a spectacular San Juan Mountain loop.

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Filed Under: USA, Colorado Tagged With: COVID-19, Fall Foliage, Fourteeners, Million Dollar Highway, Mount Sneffels, Ouray, Ouray Colorado, Road Trip, San Juan Mountains, Silverton Colorado, Siverton, Yankee Boy Basin

About Michael Huntley

Travel photographer and blogger at Traveling Huntleys. Documenting adventures across the American Southwest and beyond since 2016.

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