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Traveling Huntleys

Inspiring travel stories, tips, and guides from a couple exploring the world one destination at a time.

Copenhagen & Skagen, Denmark: Little Mermaid, Nyhavn, Grenen & Baltic Cruise

September 8, 2024 by Michael Huntley

Last Updated: May 2026

Copenhagen is the capital and largest city in Denmark, with a population of about 1.4 million people spread across the city and its surrounding metropolitan area. Settlements dating back to the Stone Age have been found here, making it one of Scandinavia’s oldest inhabited places. Originally a Viking fishing village established in the 10th century, the city flourished over the centuries into a major trading hub and royal capital — surviving devastating fires, waves of plague, and wars — to become the cosmopolitan, design-forward metropolis it is today. Copenhagen consistently ranks among the world’s most livable cities, celebrated for its cycling culture, sustainability, world-class cuisine, and remarkably preserved historic core. On our Baltic cruise aboard the Sky Princess, we had a full day to explore before the ship continued north. From Stonehenge we had sailed to Denmark.

Copenhagen, Denmark cityscape viewed from the Sky Princess cruise ship

Copenhagen, Denmark

Sandy Huntley posing with The Little Mermaid bronze statue, Copenhagen, Denmark
The Little Mermaid bronze statue on the Langelinie promenade, Copenhagen, Denmark

The Little Mermaid is one of Copenhagen’s most beloved — and most photographed — landmarks. The fairy tale was written by Hans Christian Andersen in 1837: a tragic story of a mermaid who falls in love with a human prince and gives up her voice and her ocean home in pursuit of that love. The small bronze statue has sat at the edge of the Langelinie promenade since 1913, a gift from the Carlsberg Brewery founder. Despite its worldwide fame, the statue is deceptively modest in size — just 1.25 meters (about 4 feet) tall — which surprises many visitors expecting something grander. It has also been vandalized and temporarily decapitated several times over the decades, yet has always been restored.

Stumbling stone (Stolperstein) brass memorial plaque embedded in a Copenhagen cobblestone sidewalk, Denmark

These small brass memorial plaques embedded in cobblestone sidewalks are known as “stumbling stones” — or Stolpersteine in German, the language of their origin. Created by German artist Gunter Demnig, these memorials now exist in over 20 European countries. Each plaque, roughly the size of a cobblestone, is inscribed with the name, birth year, and fate of a Jewish person or other victim persecuted by the Nazis, and is installed outside the last known address where that person freely lived before being arrested, deported, or forced into hiding. Stumbling across one in the middle of an ordinary Copenhagen sidewalk is a quiet but powerful encounter with history.

CopenHill (Amager Bakke) waste-to-energy plant with rooftop ski slope, Copenhagen, Denmark

CopenHill — officially known as Amager Bakke — is one of Copenhagen’s most extraordinary modern structures. This state-of-the-art waste-to-energy plant burns local garbage and converts the exhaust into clean heat and electricity that supplies thousands of Copenhagen homes. But the building’s true genius lies in its rooftop: the sloped surface has been transformed into a 400-meter artificial ski and snowboard slope, complete with a running track, a rock climbing wall, and a café perched at the summit. Designed by the architecture firm BIG (Bjarke Ingels Group), CopenHill opened in 2019 as a symbol of Copenhagen’s commitment to sustainability and creative urban design. Its smokestack is even engineered to emit a smoke ring each time the plant burns one metric ton of carbon dioxide — a playful visual reminder of the environmental cost of waste.

Gefion Fountain depicting Norse goddess Gefjon driving oxen, Copenhagen, Denmark

The Gefion Fountain is one of Copenhagen’s largest and most dramatic monuments. It depicts the Norse goddess Gefjon, who — according to legend — tricked the Swedish king Gylfi out of a large piece of his land. The king had promised Gefjon as much land as she could plough in a single day and night. She transformed her four sons into oxen and ploughed a massive section of land away from Sweden, dragging it into the sea to form the island of Zealand — the very island on which Copenhagen sits today. Created by sculptor Anders Bundgaard, the powerful bronze fountain was unveiled in 1908 as a gift from the Carlsberg Foundation, and stands just steps from The Little Mermaid on the waterfront.

Marble Church (Frederiks Kirke) copper dome, Copenhagen, Denmark

The Marble Church — officially Frederiks Kirke — is one of Copenhagen’s most recognizable architectural landmarks. Construction began in 1749 under King Frederik V as part of a grand redevelopment of the Frederiksstaden district, but the project ran dramatically over budget and stalled for more than a century, leaving the unfinished structure exposed to the elements. It was finally completed in 1894, funded by Danish industrialist C.F. Tietgen. The church’s enormous copper dome — one of the largest in Scandinavia at 31 meters in diameter — dominates the skyline of the Frederiksstaden neighborhood and is visible from the Amalienborg Palace courtyard just steps away. Visitors can climb to the rim of the dome for sweeping views over Copenhagen.

Nyhavn colorful canal waterfront with historic 17th-century townhouses, Copenhagen, Denmark

Nyhavn — which translates to “New Harbour” — is Copenhagen’s most iconic and colorful waterfront district. The 17th-century canal is lined on both sides with brightly painted townhouses dating back to the 1600s and 1700s, now home to restaurants, cafés, and bars with outdoor seating that fills to capacity on warm sunny days. Hans Christian Andersen lived in three different houses along Nyhavn over the course of his life, including at No. 20 and No. 67, making the canal not only visually stunning but historically significant. A collection of historic wooden ships is permanently moored along the quayside, adding to the maritime charm. Whether you’re sitting with a cold Danish beer watching the boats go by or simply strolling the cobblestones, Nyhavn is the beating heart of Copenhagen’s tourist experience.

Agnete and the Merman bronze sculpture fountain, Copenhagen, Denmark

The Agnete and the Merman fountain stands in a quiet courtyard in central Copenhagen. As the legend goes, Agnete — a young village girl — was walking alongside the water when a merman emerged from the waves. She was instantly enamored with him, and the feeling was mutual. She accepted his invitation and went into the water to live with him. Together they gave birth to seven mer-sons. One day, swimming too near the surface, Agnete heard the ringing of church bells and was overcome with homesickness. She begged the merman to allow her to go to church, and reluctantly, he consented. At the church, she encountered her mother and learned the bells were ringing for the funeral of her own father, who had died of sorrow after years of searching for her. Back on land, she forgot her love for the merman and her children and decided to stay. The bronze sculpture, cast in 1921 by sculptor Aksel Hansen, captures this melancholy moment with remarkable intimacy — seven small mermen children reaching upward from the water as their mother turns away. It is a lesser-known gem compared to The Little Mermaid, but arguably more emotionally affecting.

Decorative granite stone bollards protecting pedestrians on a Copenhagen cobblestone street, Denmark

Decorative large stone spheres — known as bollards — are a common sight throughout Copenhagen’s historic streets and plazas. These massive granite spheres serve a practical purpose: protecting pedestrians and historic building facades from vehicle traffic on narrow cobblestone lanes. But they’re also distinctly Copenhagener in their aesthetic, blending seamlessly into the historic streetscape. Copenhagen takes its pedestrian and cycling infrastructure seriously; the city regularly ranks as the world’s most bicycle-friendly capital, with more bikes than people and an extensive network of protected cycling lanes.

Colorful flowers at a Copenhagen market or garden, Denmark
Bronze equestrian statue in Copenhagen, Denmark
Sandy Huntley at a landmark in Copenhagen, Denmark
Swan swimming on a canal in Copenhagen, Denmark
Michael Huntley exploring the streets of Copenhagen, Denmark
Royal Guard in ceremonial uniform at Amalienborg Palace, Copenhagen, Denmark
Amalienborg Palace courtyard, Copenhagen, Denmark
Colorful historic building facades in Copenhagen, Denmark

We spent a good part of the day walking around Copenhagen, and it was easy to see why it consistently ranks among the world’s most beautiful and livable cities. Around nearly every corner there was something worth stopping for — ornate baroque facades, immaculate flower markets, cobblestone squares anchored by bronze fountains, and the kind of effortless urban elegance that feels both deeply historic and refreshingly modern. Locals moved through the city at a relaxed pace, many of them by bicycle, reinforcing Copenhagen’s well-earned reputation as the world’s most cycling-friendly capital.

Michael Huntley at a Copenhagen canal or waterfront, Denmark
Ornate historic building facade in Copenhagen, Denmark
Ornate building with tower in Copenhagen, Denmark
Colorful flowers along a Copenhagen street, Denmark
Michael Huntley on a cobblestone street in Copenhagen, Denmark
Colorful flowers blooming in Copenhagen, Denmark

More highlights from a full day of wandering the city. One of the recurring themes of Copenhagen is the seamless coexistence of centuries of history alongside cutting-edge contemporary design — from baroque domes and Renaissance fortresses to sleek modern waterfront architecture and the warm, convivial gathering culture the Danes call hygge. Copenhagen was undoubtedly one of our favorite stops on the entire Baltic cruise, and easily deserving of far more than a single day.

Skagen, Denmark

Colorful traditional yellow houses along a street in Skagen, Denmark
Skagen coastal fishing village landscape, Denmark

Skagen is a charming fishing village nestled at the northernmost tip of Denmark, where the Skagerrak and Kattegat seas meet in a dramatic and visible clash of currents. Known for its breathtaking quality of light, sweeping coastal sand dunes, and the distinctive yellow-painted houses that gave birth to the term “Skagen Yellow,” this small town has been drawing artists, naturalists, and travelers since the 19th century. The light here is genuinely unlike anywhere else in Europe — shaped by the flat landscape and the reflective proximity of two seas. Unfortunately, it was raining the day we visited, but luckily we had packed rain gear, and the moody overcast skies gave the landscape a dramatic, atmospheric quality all its own.

Sandy Huntley at Grenen, the northernmost point of Denmark where two seas meet, Skagen

One of Skagen’s most iconic attractions is Grenen, the northernmost point of Denmark, where the North Sea and the Skagerrak meet in a visible line on the surface of the water. The ever-changing landscape, with its shifting sands and powerful waves from two competing seas, is a mesmerizing and slightly surreal sight — you can stand with one foot in each sea. Swimming is prohibited due to the dangerously strong currents created where the two bodies of water collide, but walking out to the very tip of the narrow, wave-battered spit of land is an unforgettable experience. A tractor-pulled sand shuttle called the Sandormen runs visitors out to the point when conditions allow.

Baby bird fledglings in a fallen nest near Tilsandede Kirke, Skagen, Denmark
Tilsandede Kirke (Sand-Covered Church) ruins, Skagen, Denmark
Sandy Huntley outside the Tilsandede Kirke (Buried Church), Skagen, Denmark

We visited the Tilsandede Kirke — the “Sand-Covered Church” or “Buried Church” — a medieval church that was slowly swallowed by the advancing Råbjerg Mile sand dune over the course of the 18th and 19th centuries. By 1795 the dune had made it impossible to keep the church clear of sand, and it was finally deconsecrated and abandoned; today only the tower remains visible above the dune. Near the base of the structure, a bird’s nest had blown to the ground, but it appeared the babies had survived. At least they were out of the weather — small mercies on a rainy Danish day.

Råbjerg Mile migrating coastal sand dune, Skagen, Denmark
Sandy Huntley walking on Råbjerg Mile sand dunes, Skagen, Denmark

Råbjerg Mile is a remarkable natural phenomenon — a massive migrating coastal sand dune that moves northeast by approximately 15 meters every year. Stretching roughly 1 kilometer in both length and width, it is the largest moving dune in Northern Europe. The dune began forming around 1500 after a series of storms destroyed the coastal vegetation in the area, and it has been slowly migrating inland ever since, occasionally swallowing fences, roads, and other structures in its path. Walking across the dune feels like being transported to a desert — entirely incongruous with the surrounding Danish countryside landscape. Admission is free, and there is parking nearby.

Oil drilling platform visible from the North Sea near Denmark

From the deck of the ship as we passed the Danish coast, we spotted a number of large oil drilling platforms standing in the shallow waters of the North Sea. Denmark has been a significant oil and gas producer since reserves were discovered beneath the seabed in the 1970s, and the country became self-sufficient in energy by the mid-1990s. However, Denmark has also committed to being one of the world’s greenest energy producers, generating over 50% of its electricity from wind power, and has ambitious plans to phase out all North Sea oil and gas extraction by 2050.

Blue hour over the Baltic Sea near Skagen, Denmark, from the Sky Princess

Blue hour at sea. The concept of the “blue hour” — that brief twilight period just after sunset when the sky takes on a deep, luminous blue — was particularly celebrated by the Skagen Painters, a group of Scandinavian Impressionist artists who gathered in Skagen during summers from approximately 1870 until the turn of the century. Drawn by Skagen’s extraordinary quality of light — shaped by the flat coastline and the reflective proximity of two seas — artists such as P.S. Krøyer, Michael Ancher, and Anna Ancher painted scenes of local fishermen, social gatherings, and the glowing blues and golds of the Danish coastal dusk with remarkable sensitivity. Their legacy lives on today at the Skagens Museum, one of Denmark’s most visited art museums, located in the heart of the village.

Visitor Information

Copenhagen, Denmark

Getting There: Copenhagen Airport (Kastrup/CPH) is one of Scandinavia’s busiest international hubs, with direct flights from major cities across North America, Europe, and beyond. By rail, Copenhagen is connected to Hamburg, Stockholm, and Malmö via the iconic Øresund Bridge. Cruise ships dock at the Copenhagen Cruise Terminal (Oceankaj), approximately 3 km from the city center; shuttle buses and taxis are readily available.

Currency: Danish Krone (DKK). Credit cards are accepted almost universally — Denmark is one of the most cashless societies in the world.

Getting Around: Copenhagen is famously bicycle-friendly, with rental bikes available citywide. The Metro, S-Tog rail system, and buses cover the city comprehensively. The historic core around Nyhavn, Amalienborg, and The Little Mermaid is very walkable.

Best Time to Visit: Late spring through early fall (May–September) for the best weather. Summer days are very long, with sunsets well after 10 pm.

Skagen, Denmark

Getting There: Skagen is located at the northern tip of the Jutland peninsula, approximately 100 km (62 miles) north of Aalborg. By train, the journey from Aalborg takes about 1.5 hours. Cruise ships visiting Skagen typically offer organized shore excursions from Copenhagen or nearby ports.

Top Attractions: Grenen (northernmost point of Denmark), Tilsandede Kirke (Buried Church), Råbjerg Mile sand dune, Skagens Museum (Skagen Painters collection), and the charming yellow-painted Old Town.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is Copenhagen most famous for?

Copenhagen is famous for The Little Mermaid statue, the Nyhavn canal waterfront, Tivoli Gardens, world-class New Nordic cuisine, its cycling culture, and Amalienborg Palace — home of the Danish royal family. It is also known for the Danish concept of hygge — the art of cozy, convivial living — and consistently ranks among the world’s most livable cities.

How big is The Little Mermaid statue in Copenhagen?

The Little Mermaid statue is surprisingly small — just 1.25 meters (about 4 feet) tall. Many visitors are surprised by how modest it is compared to its worldwide fame. It has sat on a rock at the edge of the Langelinie promenade since 1913 and has been vandalized several times, but always restored.

What is CopenHill in Copenhagen?

CopenHill (Amager Bakke) is a waste-to-energy power plant with a spectacular rooftop transformation: the sloped roof has been converted into a 400-meter ski and snowboard slope, a running track, and a climbing wall — making it one of the most creative examples of sustainable urban design in the world. Designed by the BIG architecture firm, it opened in 2019 and is open to the public year-round.

What are stumbling stones (Stolpersteine) in Copenhagen?

Stolpersteine (“stumbling stones”) are small brass memorial plaques, roughly the size of a cobblestone, embedded in the sidewalk outside the last known residence of victims of Nazi persecution. Created by German artist Gunter Demnig, they exist in over 20 European countries and serve as intimate, street-level memorials to individuals lost in the Holocaust and other Nazi atrocities.

Where is Skagen, Denmark, and why is it famous?

Skagen is a historic fishing village at the very northern tip of Denmark, where the North Sea and the Skagerrak visibly meet. It is famous for its extraordinary quality of light — which attracted a celebrated colony of Scandinavian Impressionist painters in the late 19th century — its distinctive yellow-painted houses, the Grenen point where two seas collide, and the massive Råbjerg Mile migrating sand dune.

What is Grenen in Skagen?

Grenen is the northernmost point of Denmark, a narrow spit of sand at the tip of Skagen where two seas visibly meet. You can stand with one foot in each sea and watch the two sets of waves collide. Swimming is prohibited due to dangerous rip currents. A tractor-pulled shuttle called the Sandormen takes visitors out to the point.

What is Råbjerg Mile and why is it significant?

Råbjerg Mile is the largest migrating coastal sand dune in Northern Europe, located near Skagen. Measuring approximately 1 km × 1 km, it moves northeast by about 15 meters every year and has been migrating since around 1500, gradually engulfing historic structures including the Tilsandede Kirke (Buried Church). Walking across it feels more like the Sahara than Scandinavia — admission is free.

Practical Tips

Arrive early at The Little Mermaid. The statue gets very crowded midday. Early morning visits (before 9 am) offer a much more peaceful experience and better photography conditions.

Wear comfortable shoes. Copenhagen’s historic center is wonderfully walkable, but most streets are cobblestone — comfortable footwear is essential for a full day of sightseeing.

Visit Nyhavn at golden hour. The colorful canal facades glow at their best in the evening light, and the crowds thin out considerably after the dinner rush.

Pack rain gear for Skagen. Skagen’s weather can change quickly regardless of the forecast. Waterproof layers are a wise investment even on sunny mornings.

Visit Råbjerg Mile in dry weather. The dune is best explored when dry — after rain, the sand becomes heavy and walking more difficult. Wear shoes you don’t mind getting sandy.

Copenhagen is nearly cashless. Credit and debit cards are accepted virtually everywhere, including food stalls and markets. You are unlikely to need Danish Krone for most purchases.

Budget a full day for Copenhagen. The city rewards slow exploration. If you’re on a Baltic cruise with just one day, a good route is: The Little Mermaid + Gefion Fountain → Nyhavn → Marble Church / Amalienborg Palace → CopenHill (if interested). Skagen is typically offered as a separate shore excursion.

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Filed Under: Denmark, Copenhagen, Skagen Tagged With: Baltic Cruise, Copenhagen, Copenhagen Denmark, Denmark, Nyhavn Copenhagen, Skagen, Skagen Denmark, Sky Princess

About Michael Huntley

Travel photographer and blogger at Traveling Huntleys. Documenting adventures across the American Southwest and beyond since 2016.

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