Heidelberg, Germany, is a city steeped in history, culture, and academic excellence, making it one of the most enchanting destinations in Europe. First mentioned in 1196, Heidelberg’s origins trace back to Roman and Celtic settlements, with its medieval foundation centered around the iconic Heidelberg Castle and the Church of the Holy Spirit. From Rüdesheim we went upriver on the Rhine to the Main River and docked in Frankfurt. From there we took a bus to Heidelberg, Germany, which is on the Neckar River.
Heidelberg University
One of Heidelberg’s most distinguished claims to fame is its university, founded in 1386 by Rupert I, Elector Palatine. Heidelberg University is Germany’s oldest and one of Europe’s most prestigious institutions, renowned for its research and intellectual heritage. Over the centuries, it has been home to influential scholars and thinkers, including those who shaped Renaissance humanism and the Protestant Reformation. The university’s reputation for academic excellence continues today, with cutting-edge research clusters and a vibrant international student body.
Hans Himmel defended his doctoral thesis at this Heidelberg University building. He was a Nazi Party member and SA affiliate who held high academic and administrative positions at the university during the Nazi era. He played a key role in the university’s Nazification and the exclusion of Jewish scholars and others deemed enemies of the regime. The SA was a violent, paramilitary wing of the Nazi Party responsible for street-level intimidation and political violence, and Hans Himmel’s membership in the SA placed him within this organization that was integral to the Nazi seizure and consolidation of power.
Martin Luther did not attend Heidelberg University, but did attend the Heidelberg Disputation which was an early theological debate where Martin Luther expanded and clarified his ideas, particularly on salvation by grace through faith and the bondage of the will, but the Lutheran Church as an institution had not yet formed.
Heidelberg Castle
Heidelberg Castle is one of Germany’s most iconic landmarks, renowned for its striking Renaissance architecture and dramatic hilltop setting overlooking the Neckar River valley.
The castle’s history dates back to the early 13th century, with the first structures built before 1214 by the Counts Palatine of the Rhine, who later became prince-electors of the Holy Roman Empire.
Heidelberg Castle is surrounded by numerous fascinating legends and myths that add to its romantic and mysterious allure. Here are some of the most notable ones:
One of the castle’s most famous legends is about Perkeo, the royal court jester known for his incredible capacity to drink wine. According to the story, Perkeo was the guardian of the castle’s enormous wine barrel, the Heidelberg Tun. He was reputed to drink vast quantities of wine daily and never seemed to get drunk. However, water was said to be his undoing—when he accidentally drank water, it led to his demise. Perkeo remains a beloved figure and mascot associated with the castle.
Another intriguing legend tells of a witch who attempted to bite through the iron-ring door-knocker on the castle’s residential courtyard door. The myth claims that whoever could bite through the knocker would inherit the castle. The witch managed to sink her teeth into the ring but failed to bite it through completely, leaving a mysterious mark that visitors can still see today.
Visitors to the castle are often intrigued by a foot imprint found on the Great Terrace. The origin of this footprint remains unexplained, and it has become part of the castle’s many “inexplicable” features that invite curiosity and speculation. One theory is that it was of a lover who jumped from a window after being caught with the ruler’s wife.
Walking Around
Heidelberg’s architectural charm is a blend of medieval and Baroque styles. The city was largely rebuilt in the Baroque style after suffering destruction during the War of the Palatinate Succession in the late 17th century, yet it retained its medieval street layout. The Heidelberg Castle, perched above the city, stands as a symbol of its rich history and resilience.
The city also played a significant role in German intellectual and political history. It was a center for Romanticism, attracting poets and philosophers like Friedrich Hölderlin and Clemens Brentano, who contributed to Heidelberg’s nickname as the “City of Romanticism.” In the 19th and 20th centuries, Heidelberg became a beacon of liberal thought and scientific progress, even serving as the headquarters for the US Army in Europe after World War II.
The bronze monkey sculpture next to the Neckar River is known as the Heidelberg Bridge Monkey or Brückenaffe, and has a rich history dating back to the 15th century. Originally, it was a stone statue placed on the tower of the Old Bridge, serving as a symbol of mockery and a reminder to passersby to reflect on themselves critically. The monkey famously showed its bare backside toward the town of Mainz across the river, symbolizing defiance against the Bishops of Mainz and their lack of power over the Electors of the Palatinate.
The original statue was destroyed during the Nine Years’ War (late 17th century). In 1979, a new bronze version was created by sculptor Gernot Rumpf and installed at the Old Bridge. Unlike the original, this monkey does not clutch its rear but instead shows the “horned hand” gesture, meant to ward off the evil eye. The monkey holds a mirror in one paw, symbolizing vanity and encouraging self-reflection, and wears a ring on its other paw. Small bronze mice accompany the statue, which are part of the artist’s signature. The statue is steeped in symbolism: its naked rear end represents ugliness and shamelessness; the mirror and ring symbolize vanity; and the hand gesture is a protective sign. Visitors often touch the statue for good luck—rubbing the mirror is said to bring wealth, touching the monkey’s fingers ensures a return to Heidelberg, and stroking the mice is believed to bring fertility and blessings for children.
We enjoyed a nice outdoor cafe pizza made with a pretzel crust and a couple glasses of Riesling wine. Today, Heidelberg is a dynamic city that balances its historical legacy with modern innovation and 9-10 universities/colleges. Its a young city with approximately 40% of it’s population under the age of 30. With its picturesque landscapes along the Neckar River, historic sites, and vibrant academic community, Heidelberg remains a captivating destination for visitors and scholars alike.
