Wertheim, Germany is nestled in southwestern Germany’s Baden-Württemberg state. It is a captivating town known for its rich history, picturesque medieval architecture, and scenic location where the Tauber and Main rivers meet. With a population of around 23,400, Wertheim offers visitors a unique blend of natural beauty, cultural heritage, and vibrant local traditions. From Heidelberg we traveled along the Main River to Wertheim, Germany.
Wertheim, Germany
Wertheim’s origins trace back to the early Middle Ages, with the first settlement recorded as early as 779. The town developed around a castle built by the Counts of Wertheim in the 12th century, which still dominates the skyline today. This castle, constructed starting around 1180, served as a powerful fortification and symbol of regional authority. Although it suffered damage during the Thirty Years’ War and a gunpowder explosion in the early 1600s, the castle ruins remain a focal point for cultural events including concerts and weddings.
The town received city rights in 1306, allowing it to flourish as a market and trade center. Wertheim’s strategic position on the Main River facilitated commerce and travel between eastern and western Germany, contributing to its economic vitality through the centuries. The town was also notable for its early support of the Protestant Reformation in the 16th century.
Wertheim’s medieval old town enchants visitors with its narrow cobblestone streets, half-timbered houses, and historic landmarks. Another iconic structure is the “Leaning Tower of Wertheim” (Spitzer Turm), a 13th-century lookout tower that leans due to centuries of river flooding. It seems like all the buildings leaned just a bit. This was in part because taxation was based on the size of the ground floor, so the upper floors were larger.
The Stiftskirche, a Gothic Protestant church dating back to the late 1300s, features a distinctive clock tower that punctuates the skyline.
Many of the businesses have their unique and artistic signs displayed outside because not everyone could read in those times.
There are small brass plaques called Stolpersteine (“stumbling stones”) embedded in cobblestones or pavements that commemorate Jewish people and other victims who lived at those locations and were persecuted or murdered by the Nazis during World War II. These plaques typically bear the name, birth year, fate, and sometimes the date of death of the victims. The Stolpersteine project was initiated by artist Gunter Demnig in 1992 and has become the world’s largest decentralized memorial, with over 100,000 stones laid across Europe.
Wertheim’s location at the confluence of two rivers provides stunning river valley views and access to nearby natural landscapes such as the Odenwald hills and Spessart forest. Visitors can enjoy leisurely walks along the Main River, explore the historic Main Bridge, or simply soak in the charming atmosphere of this riverside town.
Most towns along the river have flood levels/high water marks displayed over the years. It’s so hard to imagine that much water, but after the recent floods in Texas, we understand.
In summary, Wertheim is a quintessential German town that combines medieval history, architectural beauty, and cultural richness, making it a must-visit destination for those exploring the Romantic Road and the scenic Main-Tauber region.
Weingut Alte Grafschaft Winery
The winery is located in Kreuzwertheim near Wertheim. This historic winery dates back to 1594 and has a long tradition of winemaking. It is recognized for its high-quality Riesling wines, among other varieties like Pinot Blanc, Pinot Noir, and Silvaner. Their Pinot was highly rated by Robert Parker and we concur. The winery practices natural wine making methods and is in the process of obtaining organic certification. Their Riesling wines have received international acclaim and are a highlight of the Franconian wine region known as Mainviereck, where Wertheim is a central town.
Fortunately, we were able to meet the owner and winemaker. The winery acquired a significant amount of local whisky and bottled it under the Alte Grafschaft name. This whisky is noted for being aged in bourbon barrels and is highly regarded. However, it is unclear whether they have continued operating a distillery themselves or if they source the whisky from existing local distilleries. We purchased a bottle and enjoyed it on the cruise.
Bäckerei Gerd Frischmuth Bakery
A bakery specializing in pretzels in Wertheim is run by the 13th generation of the Frischmuth family. The bakery was founded in 1551 by Bernhard Frischmuth, and since then, at least one family member from each generation has worked as a baker. The current owner, Gerd Frischmuth, has been a master baker for over 40 years and continues this long-standing family tradition in the historic bakery located at Marktplatz 9 in Wertheim. Visitors to Wertheim enjoy the authentic pretzel-making experience offered by this baker, who shares the traditional techniques and history of pretzel baking, including the unique lye-dipping process that gives pretzels their distinctive crust and flavor.
It was spring, so there were flowers blooming everywhere. Easter was recently celebrated.
