Traveling Huntleys

Inspiring travel stories, tips, and guides from a couple exploring the world one destination at a time.

Missouri

Blue Springs, Missouri to Yankton, South Dakota: Wind, the Nelson-Atkins and the Council at Calumet Bluff

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Last Updated: September 11, 2026

This was a week governed almost entirely by the weather. We left Branson and ran north up the Missouri River valley in three hops — an hour to Springfield for an Airstream repair, then Blue Springs outside Kansas City, then Onawa in western Iowa, then Yankton, South Dakota, on the river below Gavins Point Dam. Rain cut Kansas City short. Iowa gave us three days of steady thirty-mile-an-hour wind with gusts to sixty. And the whole route was shaped by wanting to stay out of the way of spring storms on the Plains.

Glassy still water on Lake Yankton below Gavins Point Dam, Yankton, South Dakota

That is Lake Yankton at the end of it, flat as a sheet of glass, three days after we had been building windbreaks out of the truck in Iowa. If you want the argument for why we planned our travel the way we did for nine years, this week is the whole thing in miniature — and it is written out properly in Crossing Tornado Country in an RV.

It is also where the spring finally caught us. We had been traveling inside the bloom since Florida, moving north at roughly the pace the season moves. By the time we reached the Missouri there were Canada geese with goslings on the bank and wild turkeys displaying in the campground, which is the point at which you stop arriving early and start arriving on time.

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Branson, Missouri: The Ozark Plateau, the Bald Knobbers and a Thousand Butterflies

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Last Updated: September 9, 2026

From Eminence we drove west and then south, three hours across the width of the Ozarks, to Branson. Branson sits in the far southwestern corner of Missouri, in Taney County, close enough to the Arkansas line that the Boston Mountains start just over the horizon. It is a town of about 12,000 people that takes in something on the order of nine million visitors a year, and it got that way because of a novel.

Elevated view over a horseshoe bend of the White River seen from Table Rock, Branson, Missouri

The Ozarks cover about 47,000 square miles across southern Missouri and northern Arkansas, which makes them the largest area of high ground between the Appalachians and the Rockies. The highest point reaches 2,561 feet, in Newton County, Arkansas — and it is no longer called Buffalo Lookout. On November 15, 2023, after our visit, the United States Board on Geographic Names renamed it Wahzhazhe Summit, at the request of the Osage Nation’s tribal historic preservation office, which argued that the peak should carry the name of the people who lived on this plateau for 1,300 years before removal rather than the name of a fire tower that used to stand on top of it. We met the Osage a week earlier, at Blue Spring near Eminence, in the name they gave that water.

And “plateau” is the right word, because the Ozarks are not mountains. Nothing collided here and nothing erupted. Around 300 million years ago the continental collision that built the Ouachitas to the south pressed down on the crust, and the Ozark block levered upward in response — a slow seesaw. Everything since has been water cutting down into a broad dome of limestone and dolomite. Which is why the country here reads the way it does — hilly, and full of rivers. The hills are what is left standing between the valleys, not anything that was pushed up. It is also why this is the fourth place in a month where the same soluble rock has run the story, after Mammoth Cave, Bowling Green and Eminence.

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Eminence, Missouri: Blue Spring, Alley Mill and the Country’s First Scenic Riverways

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Last Updated: September 3, 2026

Eminence is in the center of the Ozark National Scenic Riverways. It’s one of the nation’s first protected waterways — in fact it was the first of them, established in 1964, four years before the Wild and Scenic Rivers Act existed at all. The park encompasses the Current and Jacks Fork rivers. These rivers are known for their clear, calm and cool water which is ideal for swimming, fishing, paddling and tubing. Eminence is a small town, less than 600 people live here. The post office was established in 1844. We knew this because we needed it to mail our taxes on time.

A rainbow over the Jacks Fork River seen from our RV site in Eminence, Missouri
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