Flying from Cairo to Luxor takes just under an hour, but the journey feels like crossing millennia. Luxor was ancient Thebes — the capital of Egypt’s New Kingdom pharaohs for nearly five centuries — and from the air you can begin to see why they chose it: the Nile cutting a narrow band of green through absolute desert, the cliffs on the west bank where they carved their tombs into the rock, the temples rising on both sides of the river below. Karnak was the first thing on the agenda, and nothing quite prepares you for the scale of it.
