Last Updated: May 2026
From Greenwood, South Carolina we crossed into the mountains of western North Carolina and settled in at Lake Toxaway — a 640-acre privately held lake in Transylvania County, the largest of its kind in the state. The mountains were just waking up for spring, the waterfalls were running full from snowmelt, and the Blue Ridge Parkway was almost entirely to ourselves. It turned out to be one of the most beautiful stretches of the entire trip.
Lake Toxaway
Lake Toxaway has a layered history that goes back well before most people would expect. The Lake Toxaway Company began developing the area in 1890, but the original earthen dam collapsed in 1916 — draining the lake entirely and ending the first era of the resort. The second era began in 1960 when the company repurchased the land and rebuilt, eventually adding the Lake Toxaway Country Club and a golf course in 1963.
In its Gilded Age heyday, the Toxaway Inn was one of the most fashionable resorts in the American South. From its opening in 1903 it drew guests including Henry Ford, Harvey Firestone, the Vanderbilt family, John D. Rockefeller, James Buchanan Duke, R.J. Reynolds, and Thomas Edison. The list reads like a who’s-who of the industrial revolution — all of them coming to the same quiet mountain lake in North Carolina to escape the heat and the city.
The Land of Waterfalls
Transylvania County bills itself as the Land of Waterfalls — and with more than 260 of them within its borders, it earns the name. We spent several days exploring the surrounding communities of Cashiers, Sapphire, Sylva, and Cherokee, finding as many as we could. Along the way we came across another couple doing the exact same thing, which felt like confirmation that this was the right approach.
The roads in this part of North Carolina are something else entirely. You can be following a 55 mph sign and look ahead to see a 25 mph sign for the next curve. The highway crew was actively blasting granite to carve a straighter route through the mountains — but honestly, we preferred the curves. Highway crews blasting granite is also just deeply satisfying to drive past.
Wildflowers in Bloom
The trails to the waterfalls were lined with dogwood in bloom — that particular April white that makes the whole forest look like it’s celebrating something. The woods floors were covered in wild violets in every color: blue, white, and yellow, sometimes all three in the same patch.
Jake was off-leash on most of the trails, which he treated as his rightful natural state. At one point he stopped and stared for a long time at a large, grey, smooth, oblong boulder submerged in a clear pool — apparently undecided about whether it was a threat or a manatee.
Blue Ridge Parkway
We drove the southern end of the Blue Ridge Parkway to its terminus at Great Smoky Mountains National Park — in the Jeep, not the RV. Some of the tunnels have less than 13-foot clearance, which would have ended the trip for our rig. The Parkway was almost empty, being early spring with the trees just beginning to bud. We’ve heard the fall colors make it one of the slowest, most beautiful drives in the country. The spring version was its own reward — quiet, clean air, dogwood and wildflowers everywhere, and a highest elevation of 6,053 feet that felt genuinely remote.
All along the Parkway there are pull-offs and overlooks, and we stopped at most of them. The dogwood was spectacular. We came across a cooperative butterfly who held still long enough for several good shots, and a turkey hen who was technically shy but clearly understood the concept of posing — she waited until we had the camera ready before moving on.
Mountain Falls Luxury Motorcoach Resort
We stayed at Mountain Falls Luxury Motorcoach Resort — right in Lake Toxaway, at an elevation of 3,200 feet. It was the off-season, so the resort was nearly empty, which suited us perfectly. Our site sat on a ridge with beautiful views on both sides. Construction was ongoing throughout the property, with a wide range of lot types taking shape: some with minimal amenities and peaceful surroundings, others going fully over the top with tiny homes featuring washer/dryers, bedrooms, full kitchens, and massive patios with commanding views.
The wifi was the best we’d encountered anywhere — 50 Mbps download, 30 Mbps upload — and the cable was crystal clear, both of which are genuinely rare at RV parks of any kind. We streamed Netflix every evening, typically with a glass of wine. Or two.
The clubhouse was massive — bocce ball, gym, tennis courts, and two pools with two spas. All of it closed until May. We were slightly early. The 9-hole par-3 golf course was open, though, and Sandy made good use of it. They had just aerated the greens and left some ambitious ant mounds in place, which made putting an adventure.
The spring wildflowers around the resort were exceptional. Forget-me-nots were everywhere — covering whole hillsides in blue. And columbines, which feel particularly right in a mountain setting, were scattered throughout the property.
Visitor Information
Lake Toxaway is located in Transylvania County, western North Carolina, approximately 55 miles southwest of Asheville via US-64. Mountain Falls Luxury Motorcoach Resort is at 10 Bald Rock Rd., Lake Toxaway, NC 28747; it is a Class A motorcoach resort (no pull-through sites or tow-behind rigs). The Blue Ridge Parkway runs 469 miles from Shenandoah National Park in Virginia to Great Smoky Mountains National Park in North Carolina; the southern terminus near Cherokee, NC is about 45 minutes from Lake Toxaway. Note that the Parkway has numerous tunnels with restricted clearance — always check height limits before taking a taller vehicle. The surrounding communities of Cashiers, Sapphire, and Brevard offer restaurants, shops, and trail access to many of the 260+ waterfalls in Transylvania County.
Practical Tips
Mountain Falls is strictly Class A motorcoach — if you’re in a fifth wheel or a tow-behind, call ahead. The off-season (before May) means lower rates, emptier roads, and the full resort nearly to yourself, though the pools and spa will be closed. Spring is genuinely spectacular for wildflowers and waterfalls — the dogwood and violet season peaks in mid-to-late April. Pick up a waterfall map from any local visitor center in Brevard or Cashiers; the 260+ waterfalls range from roadside pullouts to serious hikes, and a good map keeps you from doubling back on the curvy mountain roads. For the Blue Ridge Parkway, check the NPS website before heading out — sections can close for weather or maintenance, and clearance restrictions apply to the tunnels. Early spring and late fall are the best times to have it to yourself; summer and peak fall foliage bring significant traffic.
