Last Updated: May 2026
Traveling south from Acadia, we pulled into Belfast, Maine for a few days — and the primary reason was simple: the view from our motorhome was of the ocean. What followed turned out to be one of the more enjoyable stops of the whole 2017 summer trip. Belfast is a small city that has continually reinvented itself over three centuries, and it wears that history well — in its architecture, its waterfront, and its remarkably good food scene.
A Brief History of Belfast, Maine
Belfast’s history reads like a compressed survey of American economic development. The area was a favored gathering place for the local Penobscot Indians, who came for the fishing, shellfish, and sea fowl along the bay. European settlers arrived in force in 1770, when a group of Scottish and Irish immigrants named the settlement after Belfast, Ireland. The town was demolished during the War of 1812 and rebuilt, going on to become a significant shipbuilding center producing multi-masted schooners that worked the Atlantic trade routes.
With the advent of refrigeration, the regional economy shifted to harvesting seafood for the Boston and New York markets. Shoe manufacturing then became a major industry, followed by poultry after World War II — at its peak the area processed up to 200,000 birds per day. When the poultry industry collapsed in the 1970s recession, housing became inexpensive and Belfast attracted a wave of artists and young college graduates. In the 1990s the credit card company MBNA established two large facilities in town, bringing significant employment. Shipbuilding was reestablished in 1996. Today Belfast is a port city with a wealth of antique architecture, several historic districts, and a growing reputation as a small cruise ship and tourist destination. Few places of its size have reinvented themselves so many times.
Moorings Oceanfront RV Resort
Our home base was Moorings Oceanfront RV Resort — and the oceanfront designation is not an exaggeration. The pull-in sites face the water directly, giving us stunning bay views right from the coach. Full hookups: 50-amp service, 50 psi water pressure, and sewer on both sides of the site (though we did need to route water and electric under the coach). The park’s position right on the water made it one of the more memorable RV locations of the summer.
The bay views shifted beautifully through the day — from glassy morning light to dramatic evening colors. We made good use of both.
Jake was in his element at the rocky Belfast beach. He has always been drawn to tidepools and submerged rocks — we call him “the rock turner” — and the beach here gave him plenty to investigate. He was thoroughly entertaining to watch, methodically exploring the shoreline from one end to the other.
Despite the rocky shoreline, the beach was easy to walk on. The water during our stay was calm and the air cool — classic Maine September conditions.
Exploring Belfast
Belfast’s waterfront and downtown punched well above their weight for a city of this size. Over the course of a few days we worked our way through the local food and drink scene — and came away impressed every time.
Three Tides & Marshall Wharf Brewing Company
Three Tides and its attached Marshall Wharf Brewing Company occupy a rustic waterfront space right on the wharf. The beers were delicious — a broad, well-executed lineup — and there was also a good selection of wines for non-beer drinkers. The food is simple and small-plate focused, but very good. The atmosphere is unpretentious and genuinely local; this is clearly where Belfast residents go, not tourists. We loved it.
Nautilus Seafood & Grill
Nautilus Seafood & Grill sits right on the wharf with an outdoor patio overlooking the harbor. The food was good and the people-watching excellent — we spent a pleasant meal watching boats come and go in Belfast Bay. The harbor-side setting made everything taste a little better.
Cellardoor Winery
Cellardoor Winery is located in Lincolnville, about a twenty-minute drive from downtown Belfast, with a second location in Portland. The setting alone is worth the trip: a beautifully restored 200-year-old barn surrounded by vineyards, with tastings that are completely free and guided winery tours available. The grounds are gorgeous in early fall, and the barn interior has been converted into a warm, atmospheric tasting room.
An interesting note: although Cellardoor has a substantial vineyard on-site, most of their red varietals are sourced from Washington State or California grapes. The Maine climate is better suited to cold-hardy whites and fruit wines than to big reds — but the winemaking is accomplished regardless of grape origin. We genuinely enjoyed the wines and left with a few bottles.
Young’s Lobster Pound
Young’s Lobster Pound was a wonderful find. The tanks are enormous — row after row of live lobster, crab, clams, and mussels — and the staff (largely Jamaican, friendly and efficient) cook everything to order right in front of you. You pick your live seafood, they steam or boil it, and you take it to one of the picnic tables outside to eat by the water. No table service, no pretense. Prices were outstanding. Locals apparently bring their own tablecloths and wine and make an evening of it — watching the sunset over the harbor with fresh lobster in front of them. We could completely understand the appeal.
Belfast Sunsets
With oceanfront sites at Moorings, we had an unobstructed view west over the bay each evening. The sunsets in September along the Maine coast have a particular quality — low golden light, long shadows, and the water going from blue to copper to deep red. We made a point of being outside for all of them.
Visitor Information
Belfast, Maine is located on US Route 1 along Penobscot Bay, roughly midway between Acadia National Park and Rockland. The downtown is compact and walkable, with the wharf restaurants, historic architecture, and local shops all within easy reach. Belfast is a natural stopping point for anyone doing the Maine coast by RV — particularly for those moving between Acadia and the mid-coast or Portland.
Cellardoor Winery in Lincolnville is about 20 minutes from Belfast and well worth the detour. Free tastings, beautiful grounds, and an exceptional restored barn tasting room. Check mainewine.com for seasonal hours before visiting.
Practical Tips for RV Travelers
Moorings Oceanfront RV Resort is one of the better RV parks on the Maine coast. The oceanfront pull-in sites are exceptional — worth specifically requesting when you book. Full hookups with 50-amp service, 50 psi water pressure, and sewer. Note that water and electric connections may need to be routed under the coach depending on your rig’s hookup configuration.
Belfast’s wharf restaurants fill up on summer and early fall weekends. Three Tides in particular tends to draw a crowd — arriving early or on a weekday gives you a better shot at a table. Young’s Lobster Pound is cash-and-carry with picnic table seating; if you want the full experience, bring a bottle of wine and plan to eat outside watching the harbor.
