Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, Page, Arizona: Lake Powell, Antelope Canyon & Horseshoe Bend

Last Updated: May 4, 2026

Page, Arizona sits at the edge of something extraordinary — a small city of roughly 7,000 perched on a mesa above the Colorado River, where the Colorado Plateau meets the Navajo Nation, surrounded by some of the most spectacular canyon country in North America. It was founded in 1957 as a housing community for the workers who built Glen Canyon Dam, and it has served as a gateway to the canyon country ever since. From this single base in April 2018, we reached Lake Powell by boat, walked deep into Lower Antelope Canyon beneath Navajo land, stood at the rim of Horseshoe Bend, and drove to the Colorado River at Lees Ferry where the Grand Canyon begins. We could have spent another week and still not covered everything.

Visitor Information: Glen Canyon National Recreation Area is managed by the National Park Service. The Carl Hayden Visitor Center is located at 691 AZ-89, Page, AZ 86040, adjacent to Glen Canyon Dam. Open daily; hours vary by season. Entrance fees apply; the America the Beautiful annual pass is accepted. Phone: (928) 608-6200.

Lake Powell

Lake Powell was created by the Colorado River and Glen Canyon Dam, completed in 1966 and dedicated by Lady Bird Johnson. The reservoir took approximately eleven years to fill. At capacity it covers nearly 250,000 acres and extends nearly 190 miles up the Colorado River into Utah — making it the second largest man-made reservoir in the United States by volume, after Lake Mead downstream. Glen Canyon National Recreation Area encompasses 1.25 million acres of canyon country surrounding it, spanning the Arizona-Utah border.

The lake is named after John Wesley Powell — a one-armed Civil War veteran and geologist who led the first documented expedition down the Colorado River through the Grand Canyon in 1869, navigating with three wooden boats through some of the most formidable whitewater on the continent. The Colorado River and its tributaries — including the Dirty Devil, Paria, Escalante, and San Juan rivers — carve through the Colorado Plateau over millions of years to form the canyon landscape that makes this region so visually extraordinary.

The deep blue water against the eroded red and orange sandstone canyon walls is simply stunning — a color combination that photographs cannot fully prepare you for. We rented a 22-foot, 260-horsepower boat from Wahweap Marina and took it 50 miles up the lake. The morning was glassy and perfect. Jake was in full boat-dog mode, stationed at the bow with complete authority over the proceedings.

The return trip was a different story entirely. By late afternoon the winds had picked up to 20 mph and the lake had built 2 to 3 feet of chop — slow, punishing going in a 22-foot boat. It took twice as long to get back as it had to get out there. Sandy couldn’t see the buoys through the waves, and we were genuinely relieved when a local boat appeared heading back toward Wahweap and we could tuck in behind them and follow their lead. Jake, who had been the picture of nautical confidence all morning, was miserable on the way back. We are still not sure whether he will ever voluntarily board a boat again. To properly explore all of Lake Powell’s canyons and side corridors you’d really need a houseboat — a week on the water and you still wouldn’t see everything.

Rainbow Bridge

Among the highlights of the boat run was approaching Rainbow Bridge — one of the world’s largest natural bridges, and a sacred site to several Native American tribes including the Navajo, Hopi, and Paiute. The bridge spans 275 feet across Bridge Creek and reaches 290 feet above the streambed, with the arch ranging from 33 to 42 feet thick. It is accessible only by boat from Lake Powell (roughly 50 miles from Wahweap Marina, or 14 miles from Dangling Rope Marina) or by a very long and strenuous overland hike from Navajo Mountain — an approach that almost no one makes. Seeing it from the water, framed by the canyon walls, is a genuine privilege.

Wahweap Marina & RV Campground

Wahweap is an exceptional base for exploring Glen Canyon. Our site was large — 50-amp service, good water pressure, and full sewer — with a direct view of Lake Powell. The sunsets over the reservoir from the campground were extraordinary, the kind of light that justifies the entire trip. The complex also includes a full marina, a lodge, and a restaurant on site, so everything you need for a lake stay is within walking distance. The one drawback was spotty internet, which in this part of the canyon country is largely unavoidable. Boat rentals are available directly from the marina.

A black-tailed jackrabbit had claimed the area in front of our RV as its personal territory and appeared there with remarkable regularity. Jake was beside himself. The jackrabbit appeared entirely unbothered. This standoff continued for the duration of our stay, with the jackrabbit winning on points.

Visitor Information: Wahweap Marina and RV Park is operated by Aramark under a National Park Service concession. Located at 100 Lakeshore Dr., Page, AZ 86040. For current rates, reservations, and boat rental information, visit the NPS Wahweap page or contact Aramark’s Lake Powell Resorts directly.

Lees Ferry

Lees Ferry is one of those places that earns its significance in multiple directions at once. It is the only point within Glen Canyon — and for over 700 miles of the Colorado River — where you can drive a vehicle to the water’s edge. It marks the official beginning of the Grand Canyon, and it is where virtually every commercial and private river running expedition launches its boats for the journey through the canyon. If you have ever seen photographs of river rafters putting in for a Grand Canyon trip, they were almost certainly standing here.

Mormon settlers first crossed the Colorado River at this location in 1864. In the early 1870s, John D. Lee was sent to establish a permanent ferry crossing here — a critical crossing point for wagon trains of Mormon colonists moving into Arizona. The ferry operated for decades and the location took his name. Lee’s history is complicated and dark: he was one of the leaders of the Mountain Meadows Massacre of September 1857, in which a Utah Territorial Militia force attacked and killed approximately 120 men, women, and children from the Baker-Fancher emigrant wagon train passing through southern Utah Territory. It remains one of the most disturbing episodes in American frontier history. Lee was the only person ever held legally accountable for the massacre — he was executed by firing squad at the site in 1877, more than twenty years after the event.

The geology at Lees Ferry is as striking as its history. Balanced Rock — a massive boulder that broke from the cliff above — sits near the river’s edge, the softer rock beneath it having eroded faster than the harder capstone above. It is a clean illustration of differential erosion, the same process that has shaped the entire Colorado Plateau over millions of years. Standing at the river here, looking upstream toward Glen Canyon and downstream toward the beginning of the Grand Canyon, you feel the full weight of the landscape.

Lower Antelope Canyon

While we waited to enter Lower Antelope Canyon, a Navajo hoop dancer performed for the group outside the entrance — working a series of hoops through an impressive sequence of formations, including a butterfly shape and a large pair of wings worn around his body. It was a genuine and skillful demonstration, and a reminder that this canyon sits on Navajo land with Navajo guides and Navajo culture at the center of the experience.

From the surface, Lower Antelope Canyon is easy to underestimate — a narrow crack in the sandstone, easy to walk past if you didn’t know what lay below. Then you descend.

Antelope Canyon is a slot canyon carved into Navajo Sandstone east of Page, on Navajo Nation land. It takes its name from the herds of pronghorn antelope that once grazed in the area — we saw none during our stay. The canyon was formed by flash floods during monsoon season, which funnel enormous quantities of water and sediment through the narrow corridor at high velocity, smoothing and sculpting the sandstone walls into the flowing, wave-like shapes that make this one of the most photographed places in the American Southwest.

Both the Lower and Upper Antelope Canyons are accessible only through Navajo-guided tours — you cannot enter independently. Lower Antelope Canyon (also known as The Corkscrew) is longer, involves more ladder and stair climbing, and is generally considered a more physically demanding visit than Upper Antelope Canyon. Upper Antelope Canyon is wider and is known for the dramatic light beam photographs achievable in late morning during spring and summer. Both are extraordinary, and we would return to either without hesitation.

Visitor Information: Both Lower and Upper Antelope Canyon are located on Navajo Nation land east of Page and are accessible only through licensed Navajo tour operators. Tours must be booked in advance — walk-ups are not accepted, and spring and summer visits especially sell out well ahead of time. Multiple tour companies operate out of Page; search for current operators and availability online. Expect a tour of 1–1.5 hours for Lower Antelope Canyon. Wear closed-toe shoes; the canyon floor is sandy and involves stair and ladder climbing.

Horseshoe Bend

Horseshoe Bend is exactly what the name promises — a nearly perfect horseshoe-shaped meander of the Colorado River, carved roughly 1,000 feet below the canyon rim. The rock walls contain iron oxides that create extraordinary warm reds and oranges even at midday when the light is at its harshest. The parking lot was filled well past capacity when we arrived, with two tour buses adding to the crowd — but the view from the rim is so remarkable that the people around you fade quickly. This is one of those places that earns its reputation completely. Glen Canyon National Recreation Area as a whole could easily fill another week of exploration; we left already planning to return.

Visitor Information: Horseshoe Bend is located within Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, approximately 5 miles south of Page off US-89. A day-use fee applies (Glen Canyon NRA entrance fee or America the Beautiful pass accepted). The round-trip hike from the parking area to the overlook is approximately 1.5 miles with modest elevation change. No shade on the trail — bring water and sun protection. Current fee and access information at nps.gov/glca.

Practical Tips for Page & Glen Canyon

Book Antelope Canyon tours well in advance. Both Lower and Upper Antelope Canyon sell out weeks or months ahead during spring and summer. Do not plan to walk up the day of your visit — it will not work. Research the licensed Navajo tour operators in Page before your trip and secure your reservation early.

Rent a boat for Lake Powell — but watch the afternoon weather. A rented powerboat gives you access to the canyon arms, Rainbow Bridge, and stretches of the lake that no shore-based visit can reach. Morning conditions on the lake are typically calm. By afternoon, winds can build quickly and create significant chop that makes the return trip considerably more difficult — especially in smaller boats. Check the forecast, plan to be heading back well before the afternoon winds arrive, and don’t underestimate the distance.

For a full Lake Powell exploration, consider a houseboat. The lake has nearly 2,000 miles of shoreline and dozens of canyon arms. A powerboat day trip shows you a fraction of it. A houseboat stay of several days lets you anchor in side canyons, explore at your own pace, and access areas that day trippers never reach. Aramark operates houseboat rentals out of Wahweap Marina.

Wahweap is an excellent RV base. Full hookups, 50-amp service, good water pressure, lake views, and the full marina and restaurant complex on site. Internet is spotty — this is canyon country. If reliable connectivity is important, plan accordingly. Book your site in advance, especially in spring.

Visit Horseshoe Bend early or late. Midday sun at Horseshoe Bend is harsh, the parking lot fills to overflowing, and the light is flat for photography. Early morning or late afternoon gives better light, smaller crowds, and the opportunity to catch the warm red-orange tones of the canyon walls at their best. Sunrise is spectacular from the rim.

Drive to Lees Ferry even if you’re not running the river. The short drive from Page to Lees Ferry delivers remarkable geology, river history, and the unusual experience of standing at the official start of the Grand Canyon. It’s an easy half-day addition to a Page itinerary and one that most visitors skip entirely.

Frequently Asked Questions About Glen Canyon & Page, Arizona

What is the difference between Lower and Upper Antelope Canyon? Both are slot canyons on Navajo land accessible only by guided tour, but they have distinct characters. Upper Antelope Canyon (also called The Wave) is wider, easier to walk, and famous for the dramatic light beams that stream through the narrow opening above in late morning during spring and summer. Lower Antelope Canyon (also called The Corkscrew) is longer, narrower, involves more ladder and stair climbing, and offers a more physically engaged experience. Both are extraordinary — which you choose depends on your mobility and what draws you more.

Can you visit Rainbow Bridge without a boat? Technically yes — there is an overland trail from the Navajo Mountain area that reaches Rainbow Bridge, but it is a very long, strenuous, multi-day hike through remote Navajo backcountry that very few visitors attempt. For all practical purposes, the boat from Lake Powell is the way to get there. Most visitors reach it from Wahweap Marina (approximately 50 miles by water) or Dangling Rope Marina (approximately 14 miles).

Who was John D. Lee and why is Lees Ferry named after him? John D. Lee was a Mormon pioneer sent to establish a ferry crossing at this point on the Colorado River in the early 1870s. The crossing became essential for Mormon colonists moving into Arizona. Lee was also one of the leaders of the Mountain Meadows Massacre of 1857, in which approximately 120 members of an emigrant wagon train were killed by a Utah Territorial Militia force. He was the only person ever prosecuted for the massacre and was executed in 1877. The ferry and the location retained his name.

Is Page, Arizona a good base for canyon country exploration? It is one of the best bases in the American Southwest for anyone interested in the Colorado Plateau. From Page you can reach Lake Powell, Glen Canyon NRA, Antelope Canyon, Horseshoe Bend, Lees Ferry, Monument Valley, Navajo National Monument, and the Utah canyon country all within reasonable driving distance. It is a small city with limited dining options, but the geographic position is exceptional.

How much time do you need in Page? A minimum of three to four days to cover the main sites — Antelope Canyon, Horseshoe Bend, Lees Ferry, and a boat day on Lake Powell. A week or more if you want to explore the lake properly, drive into Monument Valley, or make day trips into southern Utah. We left wishing we had stayed longer.

Part of our spring 2018 Arizona road trip — pairs naturally with Monument Valley just to the south and the broader Colorado Plateau canyon country.