Last Updated: May 24, 2026
From Capitol Reef we drove Utah’s Scenic Byway 12 to Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. The route was beautiful and very curvy, climbing high over Boulder Mountain — there was still snow on the ground at the upper elevations.

Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument

This was one of the most remote regions in the country and among the last to be mapped. It is a landscape of natural bridges, arches, monoliths, and slot canyons. The name “Grand Staircase” describes the immense sequence of cliffs and plateaus that steps down across the region, exposing layer upon layer of geologic history — a record that draws geologists, paleontologists, and biologists from around the world.

Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument was established in 1996, and it was the first national monument placed under the management of the Bureau of Land Management. Its boundaries were controversially reduced in 2017 and then restored to the full monument — nearly 1.9 million acres — in 2021. The land remains the subject of ongoing political debate involving mining, ranching, recreation, and road access.



Burr Trail Road

The Burr Trail is paved from the town of Boulder to the Capitol Reef boundary, and it is one of the most scenic backroads in America. It felt like a combination of all the southern Utah parks rolled into one — without the crowds.

We followed a dirt road to the Waterpocket Fold, the great geologic wrinkle that defines Capitol Reef National Park. It is a buckle in the earth’s crust roughly 100 miles long, running north to south from Thousand Lake Mountain down toward Lake Powell.



Along the way we came across a small slot canyon.
Grosvenor Arch

In a remote corner of Grand Staircase-Escalante stands Grosvenor Arch, a striking double arch. The formation towers roughly 150 feet above the ground, and the larger of its two openings is about 100 feet across.

There was no one else around, so we enjoyed a quiet walk beneath the arches.
Escalante

The town of Escalante was settled in 1875. It was named for Silvestre Vélez de Escalante, a Franciscan missionary who, in 1776, sought a route from New Mexico to the missions of California. He never actually reached this spot, but members of a later John Wesley Powell survey expedition suggested the settlement be named in his honor. Sandy’s niece Tabitha has lived here for a number of years, and we thoroughly enjoyed our visit. For such a small town, Escalante has a handful of very good places to eat, including IDK Barbecue and Circle D Eatery.
Pine Creek

We hiked the Pine Creek Trail and passed only two other people in miles of walking — a rare kind of solitude, even in our travels. The trail runs through the Box-Death Hollow Wilderness Area.


The Pine Creek Trail was a great chance for Jake to stretch his legs. He had a wonderful time turning over river rocks at the water crossings and chasing lizards along the trail — and earned a bath when we got home.

Sandy enjoyed catching up with Tabitha.

It was a wonderful day of hiking with Richard and Tabitha, and afterward we had an outstanding pizza at Escalante Outfitters Cafe — Tabitha’s favorite spot. This is an incredible area that still feels undiscovered, and we hope it holds on to that quiet, unhurried character. Beyond the monument itself, the region is surrounded by remarkable places to explore, including Bryce Canyon, Zion, Cedar Breaks, Kodachrome Basin, Glen Canyon, and Capitol Reef. We had only a brief introduction to Grand Staircase-Escalante, and we will gladly return to see more.

Jake, as always, made the most of every trail.
Practical Tips for Visiting Grand Staircase-Escalante
When to visit. Spring and fall are the most comfortable seasons here. April, May, September, and October bring mild days and cool nights — though, as we found, a spring visit at higher elevations can still mean snow. Summer is hot, and flash floods are a real danger in the slot canyons. Winter is cold, and many backroads become impassable.
Access and fees. There is no entrance fee for Grand Staircase-Escalante — the monument is BLM land, open and free. Scenic Byway 12 and US Highway 89 frame the monument with paved access, but most of the interior is reached by unpaved roads. Stop at a BLM visitor center in Escalante, Cannonville, Big Water, or Kanab for current road conditions, maps, and any required permits.
Roads and backcountry. Routes like Cottonwood Canyon Road, Hole-in-the-Rock Road, and the unpaved sections of the Burr Trail are graded dirt that can turn to impassable clay when wet — even light rain can strand a vehicle for days. Carry water, food, a full tank of gas, and a spare tire, and do not rely on cell service. A high-clearance vehicle is strongly recommended, and four-wheel drive is wise.
Slot canyons. The monument’s slot canyons are a highlight, but they are dangerous in wet weather. Never enter a slot canyon if rain is in the forecast anywhere upstream — flash floods can arrive with no warning, even under a clear sky overhead. Check conditions with a ranger before you go.
Where to stay. The town of Escalante has lodging, cafes, and outfitters, and the nearby towns of Boulder, Cannonville, and Tropic offer more options. Grand Staircase-Escalante sits at the heart of southern Utah’s park country, making an easy pairing with the other national parks and monuments along Scenic Byways 12 and 143.
Frequently Asked Questions
Where is Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument?
Grand Staircase-Escalante covers nearly 1.9 million acres of southern Utah, between Bryce Canyon to the west and Capitol Reef and Glen Canyon to the east. Scenic Byway 12 and US Highway 89 run along its edges, and the town of Escalante is a central gateway.
Is there an entrance fee for Grand Staircase-Escalante?
No. The monument is public land managed by the Bureau of Land Management and is free to enter. Some developed campgrounds and certain backcountry permits carry small fees, but there is no entrance station or entry charge.
Do you need a four-wheel-drive vehicle?
It depends where you go. Scenic Byway 12 and Highway 89 are paved, and the Burr Trail is paved as far as the Capitol Reef boundary. Most of the monument’s interior, however, is reached by unpaved roads that require high clearance and, in poor conditions, four-wheel drive. These dirt roads can become impassable when wet.
What happened to the monument’s boundaries?
Grand Staircase-Escalante was established in 1996. Its boundaries were reduced in 2017 and then restored to the full monument — nearly 1.9 million acres — in 2021. The monument’s management remains a subject of political debate, but it is open to visitors as it always has been.
What is there to do in Grand Staircase-Escalante?
Highlights include the slot canyons off Hole-in-the-Rock Road, Grosvenor Arch, the scenic Burr Trail, hiking near Escalante such as the Pine Creek Trail, and simply driving Scenic Byway 12, often called one of the most beautiful roads in America.
When is the best time to visit?
Spring (April and May) and fall (September and October) are ideal, with mild temperatures. Summer is hot with a real flash-flood risk in the canyons, and winter is cold with many backroads impassable.
Jakey!!!!!
How fun that Sandy’s niece lives there! Looks like you had a great time – amazing shots of the whole area!
We really enjoyed the area.
I love your blog and post ! I miss you two !
Thank you!!! Hopefully in San Diego after the New Year, miss you too and would love to visit!