Last Updated: May 24, 2026
From Zion National Park in Utah, we traveled to the southwestern corner of Colorado to explore the remarkable concentration of Ancestral Puebloan ruins scattered across Mesa Verde National Park, Canyons of the Ancients National Monument, and Hovenweep National Monument.
Traveling
On our way to Mesa Verde we stayed once again at Goulding’s in Monument Valley. It was just as beautiful the second time.
We drove through Four Corners and could not resist stopping to stand in four states at once.
Dolores, Colorado
We stayed at the Circle C RV Park, which had large sites, 50-amp service, high water pressure, a sewer hookup, and good internet. Dolores is a small town, and we had meant to sample its whole food scene — but after our first visit to the Dolores River Brewery, we simply kept going back. We loved the craft beer, the pizzas, and the stuffed portabella salad, and there was a friendly crowd of regulars at the bar every day.
One of our ongoing struggles on the road is finding places to recycle — most RV parks don’t, but we can usually count on a national park to have receptacles.
Mesa Verde National Park
Around AD 550, Ancestral Puebloan people moved into this area and stayed for roughly 700 years. In the late 1200s, they left their homes and moved away. It is thought that prolonged drought, the depletion of natural resources, and social strife led to their migration south into present-day Arizona and New Mexico.
Before they became cliff dwellers, the Ancestral Puebloans built sunken homes in the ground called pit houses. They hunted deer, rabbit, and turkey, and cultivated corn, beans, and squash. They made baskets and pottery and traded widely. Over time their masonry skills improved, and they built houses two and three stories high. Most settlements included a kiva — a round, usually underground chamber used as a gathering and ceremonial space.
Each family lived in a cluster of several rooms. Over time, they moved their homes into the cliffs themselves. Exactly why is still debated — the alcoves may have offered better shelter and defense, or perhaps the people simply wanted the view.
Canyons of the Ancients National Monument
The monument covers more than 170,000 acres. People have lived in this area for some 12,000 years, and Ancestral Puebloans occupied it from roughly AD 750 to AD 1300 — it holds one of the highest densities of archaeological sites anywhere in the United States.
The visitor center had an incredible exhibit on the history, artifacts, daily life, and art of the Ancestral Puebloans.
Spanish explorers — including the 1776 Domínguez-Escalante Expedition, searching for a route to the California missions — passed through this region and gave the Dolores River its name.
Hovenweep National Monument
The masonry at Hovenweep is remarkable. A pleasant trail loops around the rim of Little Ruin Canyon, passing a series of well-preserved stone towers. It is believed the Ancestral Puebloans built here, along the canyon’s edge, to be near and to protect their spring-fed water supply.
Penstemon and antelope bitterbrush were both in flower.
We found this anise swallowtail butterfly at about 8,000 feet. It was only 42 degrees out, so the butterfly was soaking up what warmth it could — it could hardly move, let alone fly.
Practical Tips for Visiting Mesa Verde and the Ancestral Puebloan Country
When to visit. Late spring through early fall is the prime season here. The ranger-led cliff dwelling tours at Mesa Verde typically run from spring into October, and the high mesa stays comfortable in summer when the surrounding desert is hot. Winter is quiet and can be beautiful with snow on the ruins, but the cliff dwelling tours and some roads close.
Mesa Verde fees. Mesa Verde National Park charges a per-vehicle entrance fee — about $30 in peak season, roughly May through late October, and $20 in the off-season — valid for seven days, with the America the Beautiful pass accepted. The entrance stations are cashless, so bring a card.
Touring the cliff dwellings. The famous cliff dwellings — Cliff Palace, Balcony House, Long House, and others — can only be entered on a ranger-led tour, and these require a separate, inexpensive ticket reserved in advance through Recreation.gov. Tours sell out and capacity is limited, so book as soon as your reservation window opens. Many sites, including overlooks and mesa-top ruins, can still be seen on your own without a tour.
Hovenweep and Canyons of the Ancients. Both monuments are free and far quieter than Mesa Verde. Hovenweep has a small visitor center and an excellent rim trail past its stone towers — bring water and sun protection, as there is little shade. Canyons of the Ancients is best begun at its visitor center and museum, which puts the whole region’s history in context.
Respect the sites, and where to stay. These ruins are fragile and remain sacred to today’s Pueblo peoples — never climb on the walls or remove anything. For lodging, the towns of Cortez, Mancos, and Dolores all make good bases; we stayed at an RV park in Dolores and happily kept returning to the Dolores River Brewery. The region also pairs well with the Ancestral Puebloan sites near Bluff, Utah and the cliff dwellings of Canyon de Chelly in Arizona.
Frequently Asked Questions
Where is Mesa Verde National Park?
Mesa Verde is in the southwestern corner of Colorado, near the town of Cortez. It is roughly an hour from the Four Corners Monument and is the largest archaeological preserve in the United States.
How much does it cost to visit Mesa Verde?
Mesa Verde charges a per-vehicle entrance fee — about $30 in peak season and $20 in the off-season — good for seven days, and the America the Beautiful pass is accepted. The entrance stations are cashless. Ranger-led cliff dwelling tours require a separate, low-cost ticket.
Do you need a tour to see the cliff dwellings?
To go inside the major cliff dwellings — such as Cliff Palace, Balcony House, and Long House — yes. They can only be entered on a ranger-led tour, booked in advance through Recreation.gov, and tours fill up quickly. Many other sites, overlooks, and mesa-top ruins can be seen on your own without a tour.
Who built the Mesa Verde cliff dwellings?
The Ancestral Puebloans, ancestors of today’s Pueblo peoples, built them. They lived in the Mesa Verde area for about 700 years, beginning around AD 550, and moved into the cliff alcoves in their final centuries before migrating south in the late 1200s.
Is there an entrance fee for Hovenweep or Canyons of the Ancients?
No. Hovenweep National Monument and Canyons of the Ancients National Monument are both free to visit, and both see far fewer crowds than Mesa Verde. Each has a visitor center worth a stop.
What is a kiva?
A kiva is a round chamber, usually built underground, that Ancestral Puebloan communities used as a gathering place for social and ceremonial life. Nearly every settlement in this region included one.
When is the best time to visit?
Late spring through early fall, when the ranger-led cliff dwelling tours operate and the high mesa is pleasant. Winter is quiet and scenic with snow on the ruins, but tours and some roads close for the season.
