Last Updated: May 24, 2026
After visiting Mesa Verde National Park, we settled in at the western-slope towns of Durango and Pagosa Springs, Colorado. The area sits only about 35 miles from New Mexico, enjoys a milder climate than much of the state thanks to its 7,000-foot elevation, and is framed by a stunning Rocky Mountain backdrop. We split our stay between the two towns, soaking in hot springs, chasing snowmelt waterfalls, and wandering historic streets.
Durango
Durango was organized in 1880 to serve the local mining district. Today its historic Main Avenue is lined with galleries, restaurants, bars, boutiques, and other businesses. Durango is best known for the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad — a heritage steam train that climbs roughly 45 miles through the San Juan Mountains to the old mining town of Silverton — along with Purgatory Resort, miles of hiking and biking trails, Fort Lewis College, and its proximity to Mesa Verde National Park and Chimney Rock National Monument.
Lightner Creek
The sites were a little tight, but we had very good neighbors and ours overlooked the creek. We had a patio and grill, which we took advantage of each night — grilling steak, shrimp, and fish. Lightner Creek offered 50-amp service, 60-psi water pressure, and sewer, but no Wi-Fi. Our Verizon signal was only two bars of 3G; thanks to our weBoost Drive 4G-X, it was boosted to four bars of LTE, letting us use our phones as hotspots. We were also able to get our teeth cleaned in Durango — doctors and dentists can be a challenge when traveling, since they are often booked far ahead.
Eno Wine Bar
Eno had a very nice atmosphere, good wines, and tapas. We enjoyed a charcuterie board paired with a flight of wine — a relaxed way to cap off a day in town.
Pagosa Springs
Pagosa Springs was incorporated in 1891. The town has a population of only about 1,700, though roughly 60% of property owners are non-residents. Pagosa Springs is famous as the home of the Mother Spring — recognized by Guinness World Records as the world’s deepest geothermal hot spring, measured past 1,000 feet without ever reaching the bottom. People are drawn here to soak in the warm mineral water, hike, fish, ski, and hunt amid stunning Rocky Mountain views.
Treasure Falls
It was a short hike to the 105-foot waterfall, and we came across only one other couple along the way. Treasure Falls takes its name from a local legend about a cache of gold buried in the mountain the falls plunge from.
Red columbine and creeping mahonia were blooming along the trail.
Piedra Falls
Another short hike led us to Piedra Falls. It was springtime, so the Piedra River was running full and the falls were intense — the mist even threw a rainbow across the canyon.
Along the way we spotted mule deer, wild turkey, and a few wild strawberry plants in bloom.
The Springs Resort and Spa
The geothermal spring’s source water reaches a temperature of about 144°F. By regulating how much spring water flows into each soaking pool, the resort can fine-tune the temperature of every pool. When we visited, The Springs had 23 terraced soaking pools spanning a wide range of temperatures — plus access to the chilly San Juan River — so everyone could find their perfect spot. We gravitated to the 92, 100, and 106-degree pools. A major expansion completed in 2025 has since more than doubled the resort’s pools and added new guest rooms, a thermal spa, and a panoramic sauna. “Pagosa” comes from the Ute word Pagosah, most often translated as “healing waters,” though some interpretations point to “boiling water” or, with a nod to the spring’s mineral aroma, “water with a strong smell.” We did notice a faint sulfur scent, but it was very tolerable.
The Springs was a sacred place of peace and healing for the Ute people long before settlers and the U.S. Army became enamored with the soothing water. U.S. Army physicians studied the water’s medicinal effects in the 1860s, and their reports concluded: “The waters of Pagosa are without doubt the most wonderful and beneficial in medicinal effects that have ever been discovered.”
The Springs became a hot spot for healing in the early 1900s, but with the advent of modern medicine, interest in Pagosa Springs’ curative powers waned. The area was revitalized in the 2000s and is once again popular — not just for the springs, but for all the other activities the region offers.
Mountain Landing
The RV park was less than 50% full during our stay. Our site was huge and private, with 50-amp service, good water pressure, sewer, and solid internet — though Netflix was blocked. The dog park sat right next to our RV, which Jake really enjoyed, since he could watch every dog in the park stroll by. This is definitely a town we could see ourselves living in: lots of culture, amazing night skies, and plenty of fun activities.
Practical Tips for Visiting Durango and Pagosa Springs
Getting there. Durango sits in southwest Colorado where US Highway 550 meets US Highway 160, roughly 35 miles from the New Mexico state line. Pagosa Springs is about 60 miles east along Highway 160, an easy hour’s drive. Durango–La Plata County Airport handles regional flights, and the drive from Mesa Verde National Park to Durango takes well under an hour.
When to visit. We came in late May, when spring snowmelt had the Piedra River and the waterfalls running at full force and the wildflowers were just opening. Summer brings the biggest crowds and the full Durango & Silverton train schedule, fall paints the hillsides with golden aspens, and winter draws skiers to Purgatory Resort. The hot springs are a year-round draw and are arguably most magical on a cold, snowy day.
Soaking at The Springs. Bring water shoes, a refillable water bottle, and a cover-up for walking between pools. The resort recommends soaks of 10 to 20 minutes with cool-down breaks, and it sells day passes if you are not staying overnight. Because the 2025 expansion more than doubled the number of pools, check current pricing and hours before you go.
Waterfall hikes. Treasure Falls is an easy, short walk right off Highway 160, while Piedra Falls requires a few miles of unpaved forest road followed by a brief trail — a higher-clearance vehicle helps after rain or snow. Both are at their best in late spring when the rivers are full and loud.
RV and connectivity notes. We stayed at Lightner Creek near Durango and Mountain Landing in Pagosa Springs; both offered full hookups, though cell and streaming service varied. A signal booster like our weBoost made a real difference in Durango, where coverage was thin. Book well ahead in summer, and keep in mind that medical and dental appointments can fill up fast for travelers.
Frequently Asked Questions
How far apart are Durango and Pagosa Springs?
The two towns are about 60 miles apart, connected by US Highway 160. The drive takes roughly an hour and passes through scenic San Juan Mountain country.
What is Pagosa Springs known for?
Pagosa Springs is famous for the Mother Spring, recognized by Guinness World Records as the world’s deepest geothermal hot spring. The town is a year-round destination for soaking in mineral water, hiking, fishing, skiing, and hunting.
Can you visit The Springs Resort without staying overnight?
Yes. The Springs Resort and Spa sells day passes for its terraced geothermal soaking pools, so you can enjoy the hot springs even if you are lodging elsewhere. Check the resort’s website for current rates and hours, especially after the major 2025 expansion.
What does the name “Pagosa” mean?
“Pagosa” comes from the Ute word Pagosah. It is most often translated as “healing waters,” though some interpretations render it as “boiling water” or as a reference to the spring’s distinctive mineral smell.
Are Treasure Falls and Piedra Falls worth the hike?
Both are short, rewarding hikes. Treasure Falls is a 105-foot cascade reached by a quick walk off Highway 160, and Piedra Falls thunders with snowmelt in spring after a brief trail. Late spring is the best time for full, dramatic flows.
What is there to do in Durango?
Durango’s historic Main Avenue is full of galleries, restaurants, and shops. The town is the home of the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad and Purgatory Resort for skiing, offers abundant hiking and biking trails, and makes a great base for visiting Mesa Verde National Park.
When is the best time to visit Durango and Pagosa Springs?
Late spring brings powerful waterfalls and wildflowers, summer offers the full railroad schedule and warm weather, fall delivers golden aspens, and winter is ideal for skiing and snowy hot-spring soaks. There is no bad season — it depends on what you want to do.
