Buffalo Bill, Cody & Yellowstone, Wyoming

Last Updated: May 25, 2026

From the Bighorn Mountains, we headed west to Cody, Wyoming — the eastern gateway to Yellowstone and one of the most historically rich small towns in the American West. It rained for much of our stay, but that didn’t slow us down. We spent a half-day at the extraordinary Buffalo Bill Center of the West, made a full day trip into Yellowstone through the dramatic east entrance, and enjoyed every bite of the local homemade food.

Cody, Wyoming

Buffalo Bill Cody was struck by Yellowstone’s potential and the irrigation opportunities offered by the Shoshone River. He was instrumental in founding the town of Cody in 1896, opened the Irma Hotel there in 1902 — naming it after his daughter — and eventually came to own about 8,000 acres, a thousand head of cattle, a ranch, and an inn in the area. His vision for the town as the gateway to Yellowstone proved enduring: Cody remains the most direct and scenic approach to the park’s east entrance.

Buffalo Bill Center of the West

Address: 720 Sheridan Ave, Cody, WY 82414. Hours: Open daily; hours vary by season — typically 8 a.m.–6 p.m. in summer, shorter hours in spring and fall, closed in winter. Check centerofthewest.org for current hours before visiting. Admission: Adults $21, seniors $18, youth ages 6–17 $12, children under 6 free. Phone: (307) 587-4771. Website: centerofthewest.org.

The Buffalo Bill Center of the West is one of the finest museums in the American West and an absolute must if you are passing through Cody. Five separate museums share one roof: the Buffalo Bill Museum, the Whitney Western Art Museum, the Plains Indian Museum, the Cody Firearms Museum, and the Draper Natural History Museum with its Yellowstone exhibit. We spent four hours and barely scratched the surface.

Buffalo Bill

William Frederick Cody was born in the Iowa Territory in 1846. He rode for the Pony Express as a boy, served the Union during the Civil War, scouted for the U.S. Army during the Indian Wars, and held a contract to supply Kansas Pacific Railroad workers with buffalo meat. In eighteen months he killed 4,282 bison and earned the nickname “Buffalo Bill.” At 23, he partnered with writer Ned Buntline to publish embellished adventure stories that made him a celebrity in an era enthralled with the Wild West. He went on to create the legendary traveling show “Buffalo Bill’s Wild West,” which toured both the United States and Europe for decades. He died in Denver in 1917 and, at his own request, was buried on Lookout Mountain in Golden, Colorado.

Seeing that painting of Buffalo Bill brought back a strong personal memory. As a teenager, I spent time with my good friend Parker exploring Lookout Mountain in a VW bus — listening to music, taking in the Denver city lights spread out below, and talking about life, love, and our ambitions to travel and see the country. It was on one of those nights that we came across Buffalo Bill’s gravesite and spent a while just sitting with it. Looking back, most of those ambitions came true.

Yellowstone National Park

East Entrance: US-14/16/20, approximately 53 miles west of Cody, WY. Hours: The East Entrance is typically open from mid-May through early November; some interior roads open later or close earlier depending on snow. Admission: $35 per vehicle (valid for seven days); the America the Beautiful annual pass is accepted. Phone: (307) 344-7381. Website: nps.gov/yell.

Yellowstone is our favorite national park, and this visit reminded us why. Beyond the waterfalls, lakes, rivers, geysers, mountains, valleys, and hydrothermal features, the wildlife is simply extraordinary. Staying in Cody let us enter through the east entrance — a spectacularly scenic approach through the Wapiti Valley that most visitors never see.

Bison were scattered throughout the park — on roadsides, in meadows, and crossing rivers — as they have roamed this landscape for thousands of years.

We also spotted bighorn sheep on the rocky slopes and a bull elk in the meadows — both common in Yellowstone but never less than thrilling to see up close.

The birds were equally impressive. An osprey sat in the rain without the slightest concern for us, and a pair of sandhill cranes moved slowly through the meadow grass.

The hydrothermal features are otherworldly. The hot springs glow in vivid blues, oranges, and yellows because of heat-loving microorganisms called thermophiles — bacteria that thrive in near-boiling water and form the colored mats around the edges of each pool. Grand Prismatic Spring is the largest hot spring in the United States and one of the most visually stunning things we have ever seen.

Yellowstone Falls were spectacular, especially with spring runoff swelling the river and a steady rain adding to the drama. The canyon walls drop nearly 1,000 feet, and the Lower Falls plunge 308 feet — nearly twice the height of Niagara.

Despite the rain, it was peak wildflower season, and the meadows were full of color — lupine, paintbrush, and a dozen other species blooming in every direction.

Yellowstone Valley RV Park

We stayed at Yellowstone Valley RV Park in Wapiti, about halfway between Cody and the east entrance to Yellowstone, with beautiful views of the Shoshone River. The park offered 50-amp service, good water pressure, sewer, and reliable internet. The rainy weather meant some mud, but the setting along the river made up for it entirely.

Practical Tips for Visiting Cody and Yellowstone

Give the Center of the West a full day. We spent four hours and only scratched the surface across five museums. If history, western art, Native American culture, natural history, or firearms interest you at all, plan to spend a full day. It is genuinely world-class.

The east entrance approach is spectacular. Entering Yellowstone from Cody via US-14/16/20 through the Wapiti Valley and Shoshone National Forest is one of the most dramatic drives in the West — far less crowded than the north or west entrances. The canyon narrows and the peaks close in before the park opens wide.

Start early in Yellowstone. Wildlife is most active in the early morning and evening, and the popular thermal features draw crowds by midday. Getting out by 7 a.m. gives you the best chances with animals and a much quieter experience at the geysers and springs.

Bring rain gear in any season. Yellowstone’s weather is unpredictable year-round, and afternoon thunderstorms are common in summer. We visited in June and it rained heavily — the falls and hydrothermal features were magnificent in the mist, but we were glad to have layers and waterproof shells.

Cody makes a great base. Staying in Cody rather than inside the park puts you near excellent restaurants, the Center of the West, and the Irma Hotel — and the 53-mile drive to the east entrance through the Wapiti Valley is a destination in itself. RV sites along the Shoshone River corridor are plentiful and scenic.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the Buffalo Bill Center of the West?

The Buffalo Bill Center of the West in Cody, Wyoming is a world-class complex of five museums under one roof: the Buffalo Bill Museum, the Whitney Western Art Museum, the Plains Indian Museum, the Cody Firearms Museum, and the Draper Natural History Museum. It is widely considered one of the finest museums in the American West.

How far is Cody from Yellowstone’s east entrance?

Cody is approximately 53 miles from Yellowstone’s East Entrance via US-14/16/20. The drive takes about an hour and passes through the dramatic Wapiti Valley and Shoshone National Forest — one of the most scenic approaches to any national park in the country.

Why are the hot springs in Yellowstone so colorful?

The vivid blues, oranges, yellows, and greens around Yellowstone’s hot springs come from thermophiles — heat-loving microorganisms, mostly bacteria, that thrive in near-boiling water. Different species colonize water at different temperatures, creating distinct rings of color around each pool.

What wildlife can you see in Yellowstone?

Yellowstone has one of the most diverse and accessible wildlife populations in North America. On a single day trip we saw bison, bighorn sheep, elk, osprey, and sandhill cranes. The park also supports wolves, grizzly and black bears, moose, pronghorn, and hundreds of bird species. Dawn and dusk offer the best sightings.

Was Buffalo Bill a real person?

Yes. William Frederick “Buffalo Bill” Cody (1846–1917) was a real frontiersman — a Pony Express rider, Civil War veteran, Army scout, and bison hunter who became one of the most famous showmen of the 19th century. His Wild West shows brought the frontier experience to audiences across America and Europe, and he founded the town of Cody, Wyoming in 1896.

Is the east entrance to Yellowstone open year-round?

No. The East Entrance is typically open from mid-May through early November, depending on snowpack. It is one of the later entrances to open in spring and one of the earlier ones to close in fall. Check the National Park Service website at nps.gov/yell for current road conditions before you go.