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Traveling Huntleys

Inspiring travel stories, tips, and guides from a couple exploring the world one destination at a time.

North Yellowstone & Gardiner, Montana

July 27, 2018 by Michael Huntley

Last Updated: May 25, 2026

We spent a full week in Gardiner, Montana, at the north entrance to Yellowstone National Park. It was the perfect base — a short drive to the entrance gate, and each morning we were greeted by elk and pronghorn antelope right along the road. We explored the park on multiple days, covering the Lamar Valley, Mammoth Hot Springs, Norris Geyser Basin, the Madison River corridor, and more thermal features than we could fit into one visit.

The Lamar River flowing through a wide, green valley with snow-capped mountains in the distance, northern Yellowstone National Park

Gardiner, Montana

The Yellowstone River flowing past the Yellowstone RV Park in Gardiner, Montana, at the north entrance to Yellowstone National Park

From Little Bighorn we traveled a few hours west to Gardiner. We stayed at the Yellowstone RV Park, which sits right on the Yellowstone River — hands down the best feature of the place. They offered 50-amp service, high water pressure (bring a water pressure regulator), sewer, cable, and decent internet. Verizon service was solid. Gardiner itself has a good selection of shops and restaurants, and the park entrance is just minutes away.

Flying Pig Adventure Company

Address: 511 Scott St W, Gardiner, MT 59030. Hours: Seasonal, typically May through September; trip times vary. Phone: (406) 848-7510. Website: flyingpigrafting.com.

A Flying Pig Adventure Company whitewater raft on the Yellowstone River near Gardiner, Montana, viewed from the RV park

We took a two-hour raft trip down the Yellowstone River with Flying Pig Adventure Company. Water levels were running high from snowmelt, which meant the current was fast but the rapids were washed out — not a white-knuckle ride, but a beautiful float through the canyon with great scenery. We barely got wet and had a lot of fun. The photo was taken from our motorhome as another raft came past.

Yellowstone National Park — North Entrance

North Entrance: US-89, Gardiner, MT 59030. Hours: The North Entrance is open year-round, 24 hours a day — it is the only entrance open to wheeled vehicles all winter. Interior road access varies seasonally. Admission: $35 per vehicle (valid for seven days); the America the Beautiful annual pass is accepted. Phone: (307) 344-7381. Website: nps.gov/yell.

The Lamar River winding through the broad green Lamar Valley, northern Yellowstone National Park

Yellowstone from the north is a different experience than from the east or west — quieter in some areas, and the Lamar Valley alone is worth the trip for wildlife watchers. The only real downside to any Yellowstone visit is the crowds at the most popular stops and the long driving distances between features, but a week-long stay smoothed all of that out. We could spread the highlights across multiple days and pick our timing.

Lamar Valley

The broad Lamar Valley with the Lamar River and snow-capped Absaroka Mountains in the distance, northern Yellowstone National Park

The Lamar Valley stretches east of Tower-Roosevelt in the northern section of the park — wide-open grassland, the Lamar River winding through the valley floor, and snow-capped peaks on every horizon. It is known as the Serengeti of North America for good reason. A large bison herd had taken up residence here, and the wildlife viewing from the road was exceptional morning after morning.

Undine Falls cascading through a forested canyon in northern Yellowstone National Park, near the Mammoth to Tower road

On the way to the Lamar Valley we passed Undine Falls — a lovely two-tiered waterfall tucked into a canyon just off the road between Mammoth and Tower. Most people drive right past it.

A mule deer grazing in a meadow in northern Yellowstone National Park
A coyote trotting through the Lamar Valley in Yellowstone National Park
A black bear foraging along the roadside in Yellowstone National Park

In and around the valley we came across mule deer, a coyote moving at a fast trot through the grass, and a black bear foraging along the road — all in a single morning.

A bull elk with large antlers still in velvet, northern Yellowstone National Park
A pronghorn antelope on the open grasslands near the north entrance of Yellowstone National Park

Bull elk with antlers still in summer velvet were common near the entrance road, and pronghorn antelope grazed on the flats between Gardiner and the park boundary.

A bison grazing close to the road in the Lamar Valley, Yellowstone National Park
A bison bull standing in the open grasslands of the Lamar Valley, Yellowstone National Park
A bison crossing the road through the Lamar Valley, Yellowstone National Park

The bison herd in the Lamar Valley was massive — animals scattered across the valley floor and along the river, often right on the road. There is nothing quite like sitting in your car while a herd of bison walks past the windows.

A yellow-bellied marmot sunning on a rock outcrop in Yellowstone National Park, spotted by Sandy Huntley

Sandy spotted this yellow-bellied marmot basking on a rocky outcrop — one of those small delights that rewards anyone who slows down and looks beyond the obvious attractions.

Sticky purple geranium wildflowers blooming along Dunraven Pass in northern Yellowstone National Park
Rocky Mountain phlox in full bloom along Dunraven Pass, Yellowstone National Park
Rydberg's penstemon wildflowers blooming along the road over Dunraven Pass, Yellowstone National Park
Colorful spring wildflowers blooming in a mountain meadow along Dunraven Pass, Yellowstone National Park

Going over Dunraven Pass — the highest road in Yellowstone at 8,859 feet — we stopped repeatedly for wildflowers: sticky purple geranium, Rocky Mountain phlox, Rydberg’s penstemon, and more blooming in every direction.

Mammoth Hot Springs

The sweeping white and orange travertine terraces of Mammoth Hot Springs, Yellowstone National Park, Montana

Mammoth Hot Springs sits just inside the north entrance and covers a large area of hillside in layered travertine terraces — an entirely different visual experience from the geysers and hot springs in the rest of the park. Here, superheated water carrying dissolved limestone rises to the surface and deposits calcium carbonate as it cools, building the terraces inch by inch over thousands of years. The patterns and colors are extraordinary.

Colorful mineral-rich water cascading over the active travertine terraces at Mammoth Hot Springs, Yellowstone National Park
Layered white and orange travertine formations at Mammoth Hot Springs glowing in afternoon light, Yellowstone National Park
Hot mineral water flowing over stepped terrace pools at Mammoth Hot Springs, Yellowstone National Park
Steam rising from the active upper terraces at Mammoth Hot Springs, Yellowstone National Park, Montana

An extensive boardwalk system winds through the terraces, getting you close to the active pools and formations without damaging the fragile surface. The colors shift depending on which thermophile bacteria are active — white where there are none, orange and pink where the water is cooler and microbes thrive.

Beryl Spring

Beryl Spring steaming beside the Gibbon River in Yellowstone National Park — one of the hottest springs in the park at an average of 198°F

Beryl Spring sits right alongside the road on the Gibbon River, easy to miss but worth stopping for. It averages 198°F — one of the hottest springs in the entire park — and the water roils and steams visibly even in summer. A quick pull-off with almost no crowds.

Terrace Springs

Steam rising from the thermal pools at Terrace Springs along the Norris-Madison Road, Yellowstone National Park
The vivid blue and orange mineral-rich pools at Terrace Springs along the Norris-Madison Road, Yellowstone National Park
A vivid thermal pool at Terrace Springs, a hidden gem on the Norris-Madison Road in Yellowstone National Park

Terrace Springs is a small cluster of thermal pools just off the Norris–Madison road, and almost nobody stopped while we were there. With the crowds pushing toward Old Faithful and Norris, this hidden spot was peaceful and just as beautiful. Worth the two-minute detour.

Norris Geyser Basin

The stark, steaming otherworldly landscape of Norris Geyser Basin, the hottest and most dynamic geyser basin in Yellowstone National Park

Norris took us a few attempts over multiple days before we finally found parking — it is that popular. The wait was worth every bit of frustration. Norris Geyser Basin is the hottest in the park: a drill test here was abandoned when steam temperatures exceeded 400°F. The landscape is stark, barren in places, and deeply otherworldly.

Yellow sulfur deposits surrounding boiling acidic pools at Norris Geyser Basin, Yellowstone National Park
Small geysers erupting in Porcelain Basin at Norris Geyser Basin, Yellowstone National Park

Porcelain Basin is the open, barren section of Norris — its sulfuric acid environment kills most vegetation, giving it a lunar quality. Pink, red, and orange iron oxides and vivid yellow sulfur deposits brighten the pale ground, and small geysers erupt continuously across the basin floor.

Steam rising from dozens of active thermal vents across Norris Geyser Basin, Yellowstone National Park
Sandy Huntley on the boardwalk at Norris Geyser Basin, Yellowstone National Park
The vivid emerald green water of a thermal pool in the Back Basin at Norris Geyser Basin, Yellowstone National Park

Steamboat Geyser

Steamboat Geyser in minor eruption at Norris Geyser Basin, Yellowstone National Park — the world's tallest active geyser at up to 380 feet

Steamboat Geyser is the world’s tallest active geyser, capable of erupting to 380 feet — more than three times the height of Old Faithful. Major eruptions are unpredictable and rare, but even the minor eruptions we witnessed were impressive. Being near it when it goes off is said to be unforgettable.

Emerald Spring

The vivid emerald green pool of Emerald Spring at Norris Geyser Basin, Yellowstone National Park — its color created by yellow sulfur lining a clear blue pool

Emerald Spring is a beautiful clear blue pool, but because of the yellow sulfur lining its interior, the combined effect produces a striking emerald green. Simple geology, stunning result.

Artists Paintpots

Pink and grey bubbling mud pots at Artists Paintpots thermal area in Yellowstone National Park
A thick grey mud pot slowly churning at the Artists Paintpots, Yellowstone National Park
Milky blue hot spring pools and bubbling mud pots at Artists Paintpots in Yellowstone National Park

The Artists Paintpots area, a short mile-long trail south of Norris, is one of the more accessible and underrated stops in the park. The trail winds past bubbling grey and pink mud pots, milky blue pools, and small geysers — a compact sampler of Yellowstone’s hydrothermal range with far fewer people than the big attractions.

Waterfalls

Gibbon Falls tumbling 84 feet over the edge of the Yellowstone volcanic caldera rim, Yellowstone National Park
A waterfall on the Gardner River near the north entrance of Yellowstone National Park, Montana, swollen with spring snowmelt

Both Gibbon Falls and the Gardner River falls were running spectacularly full from spring snowmelt. Gibbon Falls drops 84 feet right over the rim of the Yellowstone caldera — geology and scenery in one stop. Easy pull-offs for both.

Wildflowers

Colorful wildflowers blooming in a meadow alongside a stream in Yellowstone National Park
A carpet of wildflowers blooming in the open meadows of Yellowstone National Park
Purple lupine wildflowers in bloom along the roadside in Yellowstone National Park
Vibrant wildflowers blooming along a trail in Yellowstone National Park in early summer

June in Yellowstone is wildflower season across the park — meadows, roadsides, and mountain slopes all in bloom at once. We stopped constantly.

Madison River

A newborn elk calf resting in the tall grass along the Madison River, Yellowstone National Park
Two newborn elk calves lying in the grass beside their mother along the Madison River, Yellowstone National Park
Sandy Huntley standing near the Madison River with a herd of elk in the meadow behind her, Yellowstone National Park

The drive along the Madison River near the west entrance was one of the highlights of our entire week. A large elk herd with newborn calves had settled into the meadows along the river — the calves were tiny and wobbly on their legs, barely days old. Sandy stood quietly on the road’s edge with the herd grazing all around her. A moment we won’t forget.

Practical Tips for Visiting Gardiner and North Yellowstone

Stay at least a week if you can. Yellowstone is enormous — the park covers 3,500 square miles — and a week based in Gardiner let us spread the highlights across multiple days, pick our timing for crowds, and revisit favorites. Two days is not enough. Four is the minimum to feel like you have seen the park.

The North Entrance is the only year-round vehicle entrance. All other entrances close in winter, but the road from Gardiner to Cooke City via Mammoth stays open. If you visit in the off-season, this is your gateway, and Mammoth in winter is stunning.

The Lamar Valley at dawn is unmatched for wildlife. Get there by 6 or 7 a.m. and drive slowly. Bison, elk, pronghorn, coyotes, bears, and — if you are lucky — wolves are all active in the early morning in the valley. Bring binoculars and a spotting scope if you have one.

Norris Geyser Basin requires patience. The parking lot fills fast on summer mornings. We tried three times before we got a spot. Go early, or try late afternoon. The basin is worth as much time as you can give it — the Back Basin and Porcelain Basin together take a solid two hours.

Gardiner is a great base for an RV trip. The Yellowstone RV Park sits right on the river, hookups are solid, and the drive to the north entrance is minutes. The town has restaurants, outfitters, and gear shops. Flying Pig Adventure Company is right in town for rafting on the Yellowstone River.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the Lamar Valley known for?

The Lamar Valley in northern Yellowstone is known as the “Serengeti of North America” for its exceptional wildlife density. It is the best place in Yellowstone — and arguably in the lower 48 states — to see wolves, bison, elk, bears, and pronghorn in the wild, often in a single morning. The valley is wide, open, and easily viewed from the road.

How is Mammoth Hot Springs different from other Yellowstone thermal features?

Unlike the geysers and hot pools in the rest of the park, Mammoth Hot Springs is built from travertine — calcium carbonate deposited by hot water carrying dissolved limestone from deep underground. The result is a cascading series of stepped terraces, white and orange and pink, that look unlike anything else in the park. The terraces change constantly as water flow shifts and new formations grow.

What is Steamboat Geyser?

Steamboat Geyser at Norris Geyser Basin is the world’s tallest active geyser, capable of erupting to heights of 300–380 feet during a major eruption — more than three times the height of Old Faithful. Major eruptions are irregular and unpredictable, sometimes years apart, sometimes several per year. Minor eruptions happen more frequently. If you are near Norris when a major eruption begins, you will hear it before you see it.

Is rafting on the Yellowstone River worth it?

Yes, especially for a relaxed scenic float when water is running high in early summer. Companies like Flying Pig Adventure Company in Gardiner offer two-hour trips on the Yellowstone River through the Black Canyon. High water washes out the rapids but makes the current fast and the scenery dramatic. For serious whitewater, earlier or lower-water trips can be more exciting.

What wildlife can you see near the north entrance to Yellowstone?

The stretch between Gardiner and Mammoth is one of the best wildlife corridors in the park. Elk and pronghorn are nearly always visible near the entrance road. In the Lamar Valley, bison herds, coyotes, black bears, and grizzly bears are regularly spotted. We also saw a black bear, mule deer, a marmot, and a large elk herd with newborn calves along the Madison River in a single week.

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Filed Under: USA, Montana Tagged With: Bison, Elk, Gardiner, Gardiner Montana, Lamar Valley, Madison River, Mammoth Hot Springs, Montana, Norris Geyser Basin, Pronghorn, RV Travel, Steamboat Geyser, Wildlife, Yellowstone, Yellowstone National Park

About Michael Huntley

Travel photographer and blogger at Traveling Huntleys. Documenting adventures across the American Southwest and beyond since 2016.

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Comments

  1. jeffrey huntley says

    July 29, 2018 at 1:40 am

    thanks for sharing, beautiful photos as always!

    • Michael says

      July 29, 2018 at 1:25 pm

      Yellowstone is one of our favorites. Thank you!

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