Last Updated: May 2026
From Missoula, Montana we headed north to Glacier National Park. The rugged, snow-capped mountains straddling the Continental Divide were breathtaking. The drive from Missoula was scenic throughout, especially along the western shore of Flathead Lake. We stocked up in Kalispell — it has a Costco — though we had to be strategic, as fresh vegetables, fruits, meat, dairy, poultry, and alcohol are restricted when crossing into Canada.
Glacier National Park
Address: 64 Grinnell Dr, West Glacier, MT 59936. Hours: The park is open year-round; the Going-to-the-Sun Road typically opens late May or June and closes in October depending on snowpack. Admission: $35 per vehicle (valid for seven days); the America the Beautiful annual pass is accepted. Phone: (406) 888-7800. Website: nps.gov/glac.
Glacier National Park encompasses over one million acres in northern Montana, sharing its border with Canada’s Waterton Lakes National Park. Together they form the Waterton-Glacier International Peace Park, the world’s first international peace park designated in 1932. The park’s rugged terrain ranges from dense cedar forests at lower elevations to permanent snowfields and glaciers at the summits.
Even though it was mid-July with temperatures in the high 80s, the spring wildflowers were still abundant — shooting stars, columbine, and countless other species thriving in the high mountain meadows.
Going-to-the-Sun Road
The Going-to-the-Sun Road is one of the most spectacular drives in North America. Completed in 1932, this 50-mile engineering marvel traverses the full width of the park between West Glacier and St. Mary, crossing the Continental Divide at Logan Pass at 6,646 feet. It cuts through every terrain the park has to offer — old-growth forest, river valleys, sheer cliff faces, alpine meadows, and glacially carved peaks.
The road can be very crowded, especially in summer. We left at 6:30 a.m. one morning — significantly better for avoiding traffic and finding parking at the trailheads. If you want to enjoy the road without the crowds, an early start is essential.
The road offers stunning vistas, abundant wildlife, and cascading waterfalls around nearly every bend. At Logan Pass the road reaches its highest point, and in July the snowfields can still be several feet deep.
At Logan Pass we were treated to mountain goats with a kid — completely accustomed to people and wandering through the parking area without a care. A highlight of the entire trip.
We also came across a herd of male bighorn sheep using the remaining snowfields to cool off in the summer heat — a remarkable sight along the road.
St. Mary sits on the east side of the park at the terminus of the Going-to-the-Sun Road. Along the way we spotted a grizzly bear in the distance — always an awe-inspiring moment in bear country.
Many Glacier is north of St. Mary and is widely considered the most scenic valley in the park. The wildflower displays in this area were extraordinary — fields of color stretching from the valley floor up toward the peaks.
In Many Glacier we came across two black bears playing — one was a striking cinnamon-phase black bear, a natural color variant that can be mistaken for a brown bear. A true wildlife spectacle.
Because it is a National Park, dogs are not permitted on most trails — Jake had limited opportunities to hike, but he was perfectly content watching wildlife from the Jeep window and seemed to have strong opinions about every bear and goat we passed.
Since seeing my first Sierra Club engagement calendar in the 1970s — which featured a stunning photograph of Glacier — I have always dreamed of photographing beargrass with the park’s iconic peaks in the background. Sandy thinks it is funny to photograph me photographing. I think she has a point.
The Two Medicine road leads to one of the park’s quieter and more beautiful corners — a lake with an astonishing concentration of wildflowers along its shores, far fewer crowds than Logan Pass or Many Glacier, and a real sense of wilderness solitude.
The surrounding communities of Kalispell, Coram, Columbia Falls, and Whitefish all had plenty to offer. We rented a storage locker for our excess supplies, ammunition, and firearms — required when crossing into Canada. In Whitefish we had a wonderful time meeting up with our friends Kelly and Sal. The area is a bit touristy but genuinely beautiful, surrounded by mountains, rivers, and wildlife. Jake spent much of his campground time attempting to excavate ground squirrels from their burrows — we finally had to redirect his energy before he completely relandscaped the site.
Practical Tips for Glacier National Park
Go early on Going-to-the-Sun Road: Summer crowds are intense and parking at Logan Pass fills by 8 a.m. or earlier. Leave your campsite by 6 a.m. to get a spot, beat the traffic, and experience the road at its very best in the morning light.
Vehicle size restrictions: Vehicles over 21 feet in length (including tow vehicles) are not permitted on certain sections of Going-to-the-Sun Road between Avalanche Creek and the Sun Point parking area. Large RVs must park at the Apgar or St. Mary visitor centers and use the park’s free shuttle system.
Dogs in the park: Dogs are not permitted on most trails in Glacier — they are allowed in parking areas, campgrounds, and within 100 feet of roads. If you are traveling with a dog, plan your hikes accordingly and bring a vehicle shade cover for warm days.
Bear safety: Glacier has one of the highest grizzly bear densities in the lower 48 states. Carry bear spray at all times on trails, hike in groups, make noise, and never approach wildlife. Rangers take this seriously and so should you.
Crossing into Canada: If your itinerary continues to Waterton or beyond, be aware of customs restrictions. Firearms, ammunition, and certain foods require declaration or storage before crossing. We rented a storage locker in Whitefish — a practical and straightforward solution.
Frequently Asked Questions
When is the best time to visit Glacier National Park?
Mid-July through mid-August offers the best combination of open roads, wildflowers, and wildlife activity. The Going-to-the-Sun Road is typically fully open by late June or early July, depending on snowpack. September is also excellent — fewer crowds and brilliant fall color — though some facilities begin to close after Labor Day.
Can you drive an RV on Going-to-the-Sun Road?
Vehicles over 21 feet in length are restricted from the central section of Going-to-the-Sun Road. Large RVs should park at Apgar (west side) or St. Mary (east side) and use the free park shuttle to access Logan Pass. The shuttle system is efficient and lets you enjoy the scenery without worrying about parking.
What wildlife can you see in Glacier National Park?
Glacier is one of the best wildlife-watching destinations in North America. We personally saw grizzly bears, black bears, mountain goats, bighorn sheep, and ground squirrels on a single visit. Moose, elk, deer, wolves, and lynx also inhabit the park. Many Glacier and the east side generally offer the best wildlife viewing.
Is the Many Glacier area worth the drive?
Absolutely — it is arguably the most scenic valley in the park. The access road branches off from US-89 on the east side and leads to Swiftcurrent Lake, surrounded by some of the most dramatic peaks in Glacier. Wildlife sightings in this area are frequent, and the hiking is outstanding. Do not skip it.
What is Two Medicine and is it worth visiting?
Two Medicine is one of the park’s hidden gems — quieter than Many Glacier or Going-to-the-Sun, with beautiful lake scenery, impressive wildflower meadows, and great hiking. It sits in the southeastern corner of the park and is often overlooked by visitors focused on the main road. If you have the time, it is well worth a half-day visit.
What should we do in Whitefish and Kalispell near Glacier?
Whitefish is a charming mountain town with excellent restaurants, a historic downtown, and Whitefish Mountain Resort nearby. Kalispell is the regional hub with full services including a Costco — useful for RVers stocking up. Columbia Falls and Coram are convenient bases for park access on the west side. The whole area is genuinely beautiful and worth taking time to explore.
great photos as always, thanks for sharing!
Thank you, currently in Canada!