Last Updated: May 2026
We left the vineyards of Kelowna and traveled northeast into the smoke-filled Columbia Mountains, bound for Mount Revelstoke and Glacier National Parks in British Columbia. There were over 566 wildfires burning across the province — a state of emergency had been declared, most fires sparked by lightning. Even though the smoke took away from the rugged beauty of the Columbia Mountains and severely limited our activities, we still found outstanding trails and waterfalls worth exploring.
Sicamous
On our way to Revelstoke we stopped overnight in Sicamous. Our site was private and surrounded by trees — beautiful, but the tree cover meant no satellite reception and no internet. They had 30-amp service and a large open field where Jake was able to run free, which he made full use of.
Mount Revelstoke National Park
Address: 313 3rd St W, Revelstoke, BC V0E 2S0. Hours: Park open year-round; Revelstoke visitor centre open daily in summer with seasonal hours. Admission: CAD $10.50 per adult per day or CAD $21.00 per vehicle per day; Parks Canada Discovery Pass accepted. Phone: (250) 837-7500. Website: pc.gc.ca/revelstoke.
Mount Revelstoke is known as a hiker’s park — it has over 65 kilometres of maintained trails ranging from easy boardwalks to challenging alpine routes. The smoke during our visit obscured the mountain views from most viewpoints, but the forest trails at lower elevations were still gorgeous and the subalpine meadows above were spectacular even under a hazy sky.
Meadows in the Sky Parkway
The Meadows in the Sky Parkway climbs 26 kilometres from the valley floor to over 1,900 metres elevation — the only paved road in Canada that ascends to subalpine meadows. Even though wildfire smoke obscured the distant views from the numerous pullouts, the meadows themselves were extraordinary. At the trailhead, a Parks Canada ranger had silicone replicas of animal scat from species found along the trail — including grizzly bear. Bear scat at this time of year, when they are gorging on berries in preparation for winter, comes out looking more like a purple-blue blob than a solid mass. Jake’s would be smaller.
The hiking trail toward Eva Lake passes through subalpine meadows bursting with wildflowers — western anemone (in seed they become fluffy white mop-tops; Sandy calls them “Cousin It”), purple lupine, and vivid orange-red Indian paintbrush. Even on a smoky August day the colour was remarkable.
Skunk Cabbage Boardwalk Trail
The Skunk Cabbage Boardwalk Trail is a lovely elevated walk through a lush wetland teeming with birdlife. A Steller’s Jay — the bold, crested corvid of the Pacific Northwest — supervised our progress from a nearby branch. Unlike most US national parks, dogs are allowed on leash on the majority of Canadian national park trails, which made these walks far more enjoyable for the whole family. Based on the abundance of wildlife we encountered throughout Canada, the US National Park Service argument that dogs scare away wildlife does not appear to hold up.
Giant Cedars Boardwalk Trail
The Giant Cedars Boardwalk Trail passes through a cathedral of old-growth western red cedars — some over 500 years old and nearly 2 metres in diameter. It truly is like walking through an enchanted forest. The soft light filtering through the canopy, the deep moss, the silence — this is one of the most peaceful and beautiful short walks we have ever done. The Lord of the Rings comparison is not an exaggeration.
We stopped for lunch at the Main Street Café in downtown Revelstoke — a carrot ginger soup, a turkey breast and cranberry chutney sandwich, and a bánh mì with pork, pickled carrots, cucumber, and cilantro. All excellent. The town of Revelstoke has a surprisingly vibrant food and coffee scene for its size.
We stayed at the Revelstoke Campground. Between the smoke, the surrounding trees, and the mountains, satellite reception was impossible. The campground had 50-amp service, sewer hookups, and good water pressure — solid full-hookup RVing despite the connectivity issues. Jake had an unexpected bonus: the campground kept resident goats, and he spent a considerable amount of time standing at the fence watching them with complete fascination.
Glacier National Park, British Columbia
Address: Trans-Canada Hwy (Hwy 1), Rogers Pass, BC V0E 2S0. Hours: Park open year-round; Rogers Pass Discovery Centre open daily in summer with seasonal hours. Admission: CAD $10.50 per adult per day or CAD $21.00 per vehicle per day; Parks Canada Discovery Pass accepted. Phone: (250) 837-7500. Website: pc.gc.ca/glacier.
Glacier National Park in British Columbia — not to be confused with Glacier National Park in Montana — protects a rugged stretch of the Columbia Mountains along the Trans-Canada Highway at Rogers Pass. The mountains here are steep and the valleys narrow, giving the park a wilder, more enclosed feel than the broad parks of the Rockies. We enjoyed the trails and Jake was rewarded with the occasional squirrel sighting, which counts as a major victory in his book.
Hemlock Grove Boardwalk
The Hemlock Grove Boardwalk is a short loop through old-growth cedar and hemlock forest — enchanting in a way that photographs cannot fully capture. The forest here is dense, dark, and cathedral-quiet. The photographs genuinely do not do it justice. If you are passing through Glacier National Park on the Trans-Canada, stop for this walk even if you stop for nothing else.
Rock Garden Trail
The Rock Garden Trail is a short, easy hike through a landscape of enormous moss-covered boulders — the remnants of ancient rockslides from the steep Columbia Mountain slopes above. Wildflowers push up from every crevice. The combination of bright blooms against deep green moss and grey rock makes it one of the most photogenic short trails in the park.
Bear Creek Falls
The Bear Creek Falls trail is one of the least-visited in the park — a quiet, uncrowded walk through forest to a beautiful waterfall. We had it essentially to ourselves. If you want solitude in a park that sees significant Trans-Canada traffic, this is your trail.
Practical Tips for Mount Revelstoke & Glacier National Parks
Check wildfire air quality before visiting in summer: August is peak wildfire season in British Columbia, and both Mount Revelstoke and Glacier National Parks can be heavily impacted by smoke. Check the BC Wildfire Service dashboard and the Air Quality Health Index before planning activities. High-elevation viewpoints are the first to be obscured; forest trails at lower elevations often remain enjoyable even on smoky days.
Drive the Meadows in the Sky Parkway early: The parkway climbs to over 1,900 metres through 26 kilometres of switchbacks — vehicles longer than 8 metres are prohibited. The summit parking area fills quickly in summer; arrive early or take the free Parks Canada shuttle from the upper parking lot to the Heather Lake trailhead. Morning light is also better for photography before the smoke builds up through the day.
Do both the Giant Cedars and Hemlock Grove boardwalks: These are two of the finest old-growth forest walks in Canada and both are short, flat, and dog-friendly on leash. Giant Cedars is in Mount Revelstoke National Park; Hemlock Grove is in Glacier National Park along the Trans-Canada. Neither takes more than 45 minutes. Do not drive through either park without stopping for at least one of them.
Rogers Pass is historically significant: Glacier National Park’s Rogers Pass was the key to completing the Canadian Pacific Railway in 1885 and is now a National Historic Site. The Rogers Pass Discovery Centre at the summit has excellent exhibits on the railway, the record-setting snowfall the area receives, and the world’s largest mobile avalanche control program. It is worth a stop even if you do not hike.
Revelstoke town is worth a lunch stop: Downtown Revelstoke has a surprisingly good food scene for a small mountain town — cafés, breweries, and restaurants that punch above their weight. The Main Street Café is an excellent choice for lunch. If you have extra time, Revelstoke has a strong craft beer culture and a small but thriving arts community.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is Glacier National Park in British Columbia the same as Glacier National Park in Montana?
No — they are two entirely separate parks in different countries. Glacier National Park in British Columbia protects the Columbia Mountains along the Trans-Canada Highway at Rogers Pass, and is administered by Parks Canada. Glacier National Park in Montana is a US National Park Service site in the Rocky Mountains. They share a name but are hundreds of kilometres apart with no connection.
Are dogs allowed on trails in Mount Revelstoke and Glacier National Parks?
Yes — unlike most US national parks, Parks Canada allows dogs on leash on the majority of frontcountry hiking trails in both Mount Revelstoke and Glacier National Parks. Dogs must be leashed at all times and owners must clean up after them. It is one of the most welcome differences between Canadian and American national park policy for traveling pet owners.
What caused the 2018 British Columbia wildfire emergency?
The 2018 BC wildfire season was one of the worst on record, with over 566 active fires at its peak and a provincial state of emergency declared. The fires were primarily caused by a combination of dry lightning storms, drought conditions, and an extended heat wave. Smoke spread across interior BC for weeks, significantly affecting air quality from the Okanagan through the Columbia Mountains. The situation has repeated itself in subsequent summers as climate conditions have continued to worsen.
What is the Meadows in the Sky Parkway and can RVs drive it?
The Meadows in the Sky Parkway is a 26-kilometre paved road that climbs from Revelstoke townsite to the subalpine meadows near the summit of Mount Revelstoke at nearly 1,900 metres elevation — the only such road in Canada. Vehicles longer than 8 metres (approximately 26 feet) are not permitted on the upper portion of the parkway, so large motorhomes cannot drive to the top. Shorter tow vehicles or passenger cars must be used. A free Parks Canada shuttle runs from the upper parking area to the Heather Lake trailhead at the summit.
What are the best easy hikes in these two parks?
For easy walks, the Giant Cedars Boardwalk Trail and Skunk Cabbage Boardwalk Trail are the best options in Mount Revelstoke National Park — both are flat, dog-friendly, and extraordinarily beautiful. In Glacier National Park, the Hemlock Grove Boardwalk and the Rock Garden Trail are similarly easy and scenic. Bear Creek Falls adds a slightly longer but still straightforward option in Glacier. All five can be done in a single day of leisurely exploring.
