Last Updated: May 2026
We thoroughly enjoyed exploring British Columbia and Alberta over the past two months. Back in the USA at West Glacier, Montana — the border crossing was quick, easy, and uneventful. The storage locker we rented in the US worked out well despite the stories other RVers had warned us about regarding theft; we chose one that was gated, fenced, and under 24-hour surveillance. After watching a couple of seasons of NatGeo border crossing documentaries, we left our firearms, ammunition, exceptional bottles of single malt whisky, and medications beyond the six-week supply limit in the USA rather than chance any complications at the crossing.
West Glacier
Address: 64 Grinnell Dr, West Glacier, MT 59936. Hours: Park open year-round; Going-to-the-Sun Road typically open late June through mid-October. Admission: $35 per vehicle (7-day pass); America the Beautiful Pass accepted. Phone: (406) 888-7800. Website: nps.gov/glac.
Being back in the USA we needed to restock — our supplies had dwindled very low during the Canada leg, even though there had been a Costco in Kelowna. It was good to see lower food and gas prices again. While in Jasper National Park, a chip-sealed section of road sent a stone into our Jeep windshield. Safelite handled the repair excellently; it was difficult to find the original crack afterward.
Glacier Distilling Company
Address: 10 Going-to-the-Sun Rd, Coram, MT 59913. Hours: Open daily in summer; check website for seasonal hours. Admission: Free to enter; tasting fees vary. Phone: (406) 387-4123. Website: glacierdistilling.com.
We had driven past the Glacier Distilling Company in Coram numerous times before finally stopping — a mistake we corrected. They produce a full range of spirits including whisky, gin, vodka, rum, and liqueur. After a tasting, they offer a cocktail menu to enjoy indoors or on their patio. Their Mule Kick — infused with jalapeños, garlic, and black peppercorn — was outstanding. A perfect decompression stop after the border crossing.
KOA West Glacier
KOAs are easy to book online and reliably equipped, but they tend to be overpriced, crowded, and close to highways and railways. This one is the exception. KOA West Glacier was, without question, the best KOA we have ever stayed at. The sites were large, private, beautifully landscaped, and surrounded by mountains on every side. They also had a privately operated grill on the property offering salmon, steak, and ribs — not the typical pancake-and-coffee operation you find at most KOAs.
A pine forest trail wound through the campground property, giving Jake the opportunity to run off leash every morning — an amenity he rated very highly. The trail was quiet and never crowded, even when the campground was full.
The amenities were far above the KOA standard: a private adults-only pool heated to 82°F, two uncrowded and very clean hot tubs, and a separate family pool for kids. This campground would hold its own against any luxury RV resort we visited on the entire trip.
Glacier National Park
The Howe Ridge Fire had been burning for over two weeks inside Glacier National Park, and access to the Going-to-the-Sun Road was blocked from the West Glacier entrance. We drove the long way around — entering from the St. Mary entrance on the east side to reach Logan Pass. A considerable detour, but the only option if we wanted to see the park at all.
The weather from the east side was cold and misty, and the air quality was still poor from the fire. The views that the Going-to-the-Sun Road is famous for were largely obscured. But the wildflowers — beargrass, fireweed, and a scattering of late-summer species — were bright and undiminished by the smoke. Sometimes a park visit under difficult conditions produces its own kind of beauty.
Despite the smoke and the cold, it was worth the drive. Logan Pass at over 2,000 metres elevation was frigid in late August, and Sandy was very glad to have packed layers. The air quality was poor enough that we kept the visit short, but even a partial day at Logan Pass is better than none.
Trout Creek, Montana
We rarely drive the motorhome more than a few hours in a day. On our way from West Glacier to Coeur d’Alene, Idaho, we needed a two-day stop to break up the distance and do some exploring. Trout Creek’s campground had 30-amp service, water, sewer, too many trees for satellite, but solid internet. A train ran nearby — a minor annoyance we had learned to tune out by this point in the trip.
Two fawns and their mother took up residence in front of the motorhome — extraordinary images for shots taken through a bug-splattered windshield. Jake watched them eat rosehips with riveted attention. A working farm adjoined the RV park with chickens and turkeys, and every morning the turkeys came running to the fence when we walked Jake past. They thought we had food, but we told Jake they were just fans of his. He seemed to accept this.
Kootenai Falls
Address: Kootenai Falls Trailhead, US Hwy 2, Libby, MT 59923. Hours: Open year-round; daylight hours recommended. Admission: Free. Phone: (406) 293-6211 (Kootenai NF Libby Ranger District). Website: fs.usda.gov/kootenai.
Kootenai Falls is one of the largest undammed waterfalls in the Rocky Mountain region — a short but spectacular hike through mixed forest to a series of powerful cascades on the Kootenai River. The access route includes metal-grate stairs with open treads, which Jake flatly refused to navigate. Michael went ahead to photograph while Sandy and Jake waited below — which they reported was a perfectly acceptable arrangement. A street vendor at the trailhead was selling hot dogs, which we attempted to eat while walking tight circles to fend off the yellow jackets. That satisfied the hot dog craving for another year.
Ross Creek Cedars
Address: Ross Creek Rd, Troy, MT 59935 (4 miles south of Troy off Hwy 56). Hours: Open year-round; daylight hours. Admission: Free day use. Phone: (406) 295-4693 (Three Rivers Ranger District). Website: fs.usda.gov/kootenai.
Ross Creek Cedars Scenic Area is a grove of ancient western red cedars — some over 8 feet in diameter and more than 400 years old — tucked into the Cabinet Mountains south of Troy. It is completely free, very lightly visited, and one of the most beautiful short walks in Montana. The forest floor is deep with moss and fern, the light is cathedral-soft, and the scale of the trees is genuinely humbling. Jake was entranced by the smells of old-growth forest in a way he was not by anything else on the trip. If you are near Libby or Troy, do not skip this.
Practical Tips for West Glacier & Trout Creek
Have a backup plan for Going-to-the-Sun Road: The iconic Going-to-the-Sun Road can be closed from the West Glacier entrance due to fire, weather, or construction at any point in the season. If the west entrance is blocked, entering from the St. Mary entrance on the east side adds significant driving time but gives access to Logan Pass and the east-side scenery. Check the NPS Glacier website for road conditions and closures before departing — they update daily.
Stop at Glacier Distilling Company: If you are driving the US-2 corridor near Coram on the way into or out of West Glacier, Glacier Distilling Company is worth a stop. Their spirits are made with local water and ingredients, the tasting room is relaxed, and the patio has mountain views. The Mule Kick cocktail alone justifies the detour.
Dogs cannot do the Kootenai Falls stairs: The trail to the best viewpoints at Kootenai Falls includes metal-grate stairways with open treads that many dogs — including Jake — refuse to walk on. If you are traveling with a dog, plan for one person to stay at the base while the other photographs the upper falls. The lower river area is accessible without the stairs and still impressive.
Ross Creek Cedars is massively undervisited: Despite being one of the finest old-growth groves in the Northern Rockies, Ross Creek Cedars sees a fraction of the visitors it deserves. It is free, the loop trail is short and flat, and the trees are extraordinary. Budget 45 minutes minimum — most people stay longer. Dogs are welcome on leash.
KOA West Glacier books out early: This is not a typical KOA — the sites are large, private, and beautiful, and the pool and hot tub facilities are genuinely excellent. Book as far in advance as possible, especially for summer weekends. It is one of the few campgrounds in the West Glacier area that combines premium amenities with direct access to the park.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why was Going-to-the-Sun Road closed from the West Glacier entrance in 2018?
The Howe Ridge Fire started in August 2018 on the western edge of Glacier National Park and burned for several weeks, forcing the closure of the West Glacier entrance and the western section of Going-to-the-Sun Road. It was one of several significant wildfires affecting the Northern Rockies and British Columbia that summer. The fire burned approximately 9,600 acres and caused significant tree loss along the western lakeshore of Lake McDonald.
What can you do at Glacier NP if Going-to-the-Sun Road is closed from the west?
Enter from the St. Mary entrance on the east side of the park — it provides access to Going-to-the-Sun Road from Logan Pass eastward, the St. Mary Visitor Center, and the Many Glacier area. The drive around the park from West Glacier to St. Mary on US-89 takes about 1.5 hours but passes through beautiful ranch country. Alternatively, the Two Medicine and Cut Bank areas offer trails and scenery with no road closure impacts.
What is Kootenai Falls and is it worth the drive from West Glacier?
Kootenai Falls is one of the largest undammed waterfalls in the Rocky Mountain West, located on the Kootenai River near Libby, Montana — about 75 miles west of West Glacier on US-2. It is free, easily accessible, and requires only a short hike. The falls are sacred to the Kootenai Tribe of Idaho and the Ksanka Band of the Confederated Salish and Kootenai Tribes, and are featured in the film The Revenant. Worth a stop if you are heading west toward Coeur d’Alene or Spokane.
Is Ross Creek Cedars accessible by large RV?
The road to Ross Creek Cedars is paved for most of the route but narrow and winding for the final few miles. Large motorhomes should use a tow vehicle rather than driving the coach directly to the trailhead. The parking area is small. Plan to leave the motorhome at your campsite and drive the tow vehicle — the roads around Troy and the Cabinet Mountains are genuinely tight for large rigs.
What should RVers know about crossing the US-Canada border?
The Canada-US border crossing at Roosville (south of Fernie, BC) or at Piegan/Carway are the most practical for RVers heading between Glacier NP and the Canadian Rockies. Canada prohibits bringing firearms and certain medications (specifically quantities beyond a 90-day supply) across the border. Declare all alcohol — duty-free limits are modest. Storage lockers on the US side near border towns are available for items you cannot bring across. The crossings are generally efficient for well-prepared travelers but can have significant waits in peak summer season.
