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Traveling Huntleys

Inspiring travel stories, tips, and guides from a couple exploring the world one destination at a time.

Central Coast California & Pinnacles

February 13, 2019 by Michael Huntley

Last Updated: June 6, 2026

The Central Coast of California stretches roughly from Santa Barbara to Monterey — a sweep of beautiful coastline dotted with small cities, agricultural valleys, and some of the most dramatic scenery on the Pacific Coast. No major airports, no snowbird crowds, no rush. We based ourselves in Paso Robles and explored the entire region on day trips.

Powerful waves breaking against the rocky Big Sur coastline, California Central Coast

California Central Coast

Sandy Huntley gazing out at the Pacific Ocean from a dramatic cliff overlook on the California Central Coast

The Central Coast is one of those rare places that genuinely recharges the soul. The coastline is rugged and largely undeveloped, the towns are small and unhurried, and the wildlife — from Monarch butterflies to elephant seals to California condors — is spectacular. Paso Robles sits just inland and makes an ideal base for day trips in every direction.

Pismo Beach

Visitor Information: Pismo State Beach Monarch Butterfly Grove, Highway 1 at Dolliver Street, Pismo Beach, CA 93449. Admission: Free. Hours: Open year-round; Monarch butterflies typically present November through February. Docents available on weekends during butterfly season. Website: monarchbutterfly.org.

Sandy Huntley and Jake the Great Dane-Lab mix on the nearly empty winter beach at Pismo Beach State Beach, California

Winter storms were rolling through the coast during our visit, keeping nearly everyone off the beach. That suited us perfectly — we had the sand almost entirely to ourselves. Jake, predictably, discovered that squirrels exist even at sea level.

Sandy Huntley and Jake the Great Dane-Lab mix at the entrance to the Monarch Butterfly Grove at Pismo Beach State Beach, California
Thousands of Monarch butterflies (Danaus plexippus) clustered on eucalyptus branches during winter migration at the Pismo Beach Butterfly Grove, California

We timed our visit perfectly for the peak of the Monarch butterfly migration. Every year between 20,000 and 50,000 Monarch butterflies migrate to Pismo Beach to escape freezing northern winters — those west of the Rocky Mountains head to the California coast, while those east of the Rockies fly to Mexico. The Pismo Beach grove hosts the largest concentration of overwintering Monarchs at a single location in the United States.

Hundreds of Monarch butterflies (Danaus plexippus) covering a eucalyptus tree at the Pismo Beach Monarch Butterfly Grove, California
Dense cluster of Monarch butterflies (Danaus plexippus) hanging from a eucalyptus branch at the Pismo Beach Monarch Butterfly Grove, California

The butterflies form dense clusters in the eucalyptus canopy, protecting themselves from wind and cold. Each individual butterfly lives only about six months, meaning the ones returning each year are several generations removed from those that made the same journey before. Unfortunately, Monarch populations have been declining steadily — habitat loss and diminishing milkweed, their sole food source for larvae, are primary drivers. Seeing them in such numbers at Pismo Beach feels like a genuine privilege.

Morro Bay

Visitor Information: Morro Bay State Park, State Park Road, Morro Bay, CA 93442. Phone: (805) 772-6200. Website: parks.ca.gov. Morro Rock is a free, year-round landmark accessible from the Embarcadero waterfront. The town of Morro Bay has excellent seafood restaurants and kayak rentals on the estuary.

Sandy Huntley and Jake the Great Dane-Lab mix on the Morro Bay waterfront with the iconic 581-foot Morro Rock in the background, California

Morro Rock rises 581 feet from the ocean at the entrance to Morro Bay — a massive volcanic plug that has dominated this coastline for 23 million years. This was our second visit to the area, and it never loses its drama. The estuary behind the rock is a rich bird habitat and well worth exploring by kayak or on foot along the waterfront.

San Simeon & the Piedras Blancas Elephant Seal Rookery

Visitor Information: Piedras Blancas Elephant Seal Rookery, Highway 1, approximately 1.5 miles north of San Simeon, CA 93452. Admission: Free. Hours: Open year-round; viewing boardwalks accessible during daylight hours. Peak pupping season December–February. Docents present most weekends. Website: elephantseal.org. Hearst Castle: hearstcastle.org.

Northern elephant seals (Mirounga angustirostris) hauled out on the beach at the Piedras Blancas Rookery, San Simeon, California

San Simeon is best known for Hearst Castle — a must-see that we had already visited on previous trips and skipped this time. What brought us here was the Piedras Blancas Elephant Seal Rookery, and it was extraordinary. The boardwalk gives you remarkable access to these massive animals with no admission charge and no crowds.

Northern elephant seal (Mirounga angustirostris) hauling out of the Pacific Ocean onto the beach at Piedras Blancas Rookery, San Simeon, California
Northern elephant seals hauled out on the beach at the Piedras Blancas Rookery, San Simeon State Beach, California
Two massive male Northern elephant seals fighting for dominance on the beach at Piedras Blancas Rookery, San Simeon, California

When we arrived, the bulls were fighting for dominance — rearing up, slamming their massive chests together, and filling the air with deep, resonant bellowing. Even the females are surprisingly loud. The sheer size of the adult males — up to 5,000 pounds — makes every confrontation feel prehistoric.

Newborn Northern elephant seal pup on the sand at Piedras Blancas Rookery during pupping season, San Simeon, California
Newborn Northern elephant seal pup nursing from its mother at the Piedras Blancas Rookery, San Simeon, California

It was also pupping season. Newborns were everywhere, and it was remarkable that any survived given the sheer mass of adults moving around them. Pups are born weighing about 75 pounds and gain up to 10 pounds a day nursing — their mothers fast for the entire nursing period of four weeks.

Western gulls competing for afterbirth following the delivery of a Northern elephant seal pup at Piedras Blancas, San Simeon, California
Northern elephant seal cow and her newborn pup on the beach at Piedras Blancas Rookery, San Simeon, California

We watched one cow give birth right in front of us — the seagulls descended instantly, squabbling over the afterbirth with remarkable efficiency. Nature at the beach is not always polite.

Northern elephant seal mother bonding with her newborn pup on the beach at Piedras Blancas Rookery, January 2019, San Simeon, California

Big Sur

Sandy Huntley driving the Jeep along the dramatic Pacific Coast Highway through Big Sur, California

Big Sur is the most scenic and dramatic stretch of undeveloped coastline in California — sheer cliffs dropping into the Pacific, redwood canyons, and almost no development for 90 miles. Road repairs from the catastrophic 2017 fires and mudslides were still ongoing during our visit, but Highway 1 was open for travel. Check CalTrans QuickMap before driving — sections of this road close periodically due to slides, and it is always worth confirming the route is open before making the drive.

Pinnacles National Park

Visitor Information: Pinnacles National Park — East Entrance: 5000 CA-146, Paicines, CA 95043. West Entrance: CA-146, Soledad, CA 93960. Note: there is no through road — the east and west entrances do not connect. Admission: $35 per vehicle (7-day pass); America the Beautiful Annual Pass accepted. Hours: Open year-round. Phone: (831) 389-4486. Website: nps.gov/pinn.

Sandy Huntley holding an enormous Coulter pine cone on a trail at Pinnacles National Park, California

Pinnacles became a National Monument in 1908 and was elevated to National Park status in 2013. It is a small, relatively uncrowded park packed with geological drama — rock spires, crags, sheer-walled canyons, talus caves formed by house-sized boulders, and the enormous pine cones from the Coulter pines that line the trails. The distinctive topography was shaped by a combination of volcanic activity, millions of years of erosion, and the ongoing influence of the nearby San Andreas Fault.

Cattle grazing on the lush green winter hills of the California Central Coast near Pinnacles National Park
Pastoral rolling hills with grazing cattle on the Central California coast near Pinnacles National Park

The drive to Pinnacles winds through miles of rolling hills carpeted in winter-green grass and cattle. Jake was transfixed every time we passed a herd — he would whine and strain toward them from the window, and they seemed genuinely curious about him in return.

California coyote (Canis latrans) spotted in the distance on the rolling grasslands of the Central Coast near Pinnacles National Park
Turkey Vulture (Cathartes aura) feeding on roadkill on the Central California grasslands near Pinnacles National Park

Hawks, Turkey Vultures, and coyotes kept us company along the roadsides. Pinnacles is also one of the critical release sites for the California Condor recovery program — the park is home to a free-flying condor population, and sightings are possible on the higher trails.

Sandy Huntley squeezing through a narrow passage between massive boulders in the talus caves of Pinnacles National Park, California
Sandy Huntley navigating a narrow rocky hiking trail through the crags of Pinnacles National Park, California

The hiking trails wind through the talus caves and narrow passages between boulders — a unique experience that feels part hike, part scramble. The caves require headlamps and a willingness to squeeze through some tight spots. Dogs are not permitted on most trails in Pinnacles, so plan for one person to stay with the pet at the trailhead.

Practical Tips

Time the Monarch butterflies correctly. The Pismo Beach grove is most spectacular from November through February, peaking in December and January. Outside this window the butterflies are gone. Check monarchbutterfly.org for current season counts before planning your visit.

Visit Piedras Blancas during pupping season. December through February is when newborn elephant seal pups are present. The viewing is free, close, and completely extraordinary. Arrive on a weekday morning for the thinnest crowds and the most active animal behavior.

Check CalTrans before driving Big Sur. Highway 1 through Big Sur is subject to closures from slides, fires, and storm damage. Always check quickmap.dot.ca.gov before making the drive — closures can appear with little notice.

Pinnacles has no through road. The east and west entrances are separate — you cannot drive from one to the other through the park. Decide which entrance you want before you go. The east entrance has the visitor center and access to the talus caves.

Use Paso Robles as your base. All five of these destinations are within one to two hours of Paso Robles. It is far more convenient — and far better for RV travel — than trying to position yourself along the congested coastal highway.

Frequently Asked Questions

When is the best time to see Monarch butterflies at Pismo Beach? Peak migration is typically mid-November through January, with the largest concentrations in December. The butterflies are temperature-sensitive — on warm sunny days they spread their wings and become active; on cold or overcast days they cluster tightly for warmth and are easier to photograph in large groups.

When can you see elephant seal pups at San Simeon? Pupping season at Piedras Blancas runs from mid-December through February. January is the peak month — newborns are present in large numbers, bulls are still fighting for dominance, and nursing mothers are everywhere. Admission is free and no reservations are needed.

Is Big Sur worth visiting in winter? Yes — winter brings dramatic waves, moody skies, and very few tourists. The road can close during heavy rain events, so check conditions before going. Many of the parks and beaches along Big Sur are open year-round and are far more atmospheric in winter than during the summer crowds.

What is Pinnacles National Park known for? Pinnacles is known for its dramatic volcanic rock formations — towering spires, crags, and talus caves formed by massive boulders. It is also one of the primary release and recovery sites for the California Condor, North America’s largest flying land bird. The park became a National Park in 2013 and remains relatively uncrowded compared to other California national parks.

Are dogs allowed at Pinnacles National Park? Dogs are permitted in parking areas, campgrounds, and on paved roads, but are not allowed on most hiking trails. If you are traveling with a pet, plan for one person to stay behind with the dog while others hike the main trails.

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Filed Under: USA, California Tagged With: Big Sur, California, Central Coast, Elephant Seals, Monarch Butterflies, Morro Bay, Pinnacles National Park, Pismo Beach, RV Travel, San Simeon

About Michael Huntley

Travel photographer and blogger at Traveling Huntleys. Documenting adventures across the American Southwest and beyond since 2016.

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