• Skip to main content
  • Skip to footer

Traveling Huntleys

Inspiring travel stories, tips, and guides from a couple exploring the world one destination at a time.

California Central Valley Wine Country: Amador, Lodi & the Road Between

March 31, 2019 by Michael Huntley

Last Updated: June 18, 2026

California’s Central Valley stretches roughly 450 miles from Bakersfield in the south to Redding in the north, flanked by the Coast Ranges to the west and the Sierra Nevada to the east. It’s one of the most agriculturally productive regions in the world, producing more than half of the United States’ fruits, vegetables, and nuts. It’s also home to two of California’s most underrated wine destinations — Amador County and Lodi — where old-vine Zinfandels grow in volcanic soil that wine drinkers in Napa have never even heard of. We spent several weeks here by RV, working our way between river marinas, lakeside resorts, foothill wineries, and an orange grove in Bakersfield. Because of ongoing winter storms we skipped the northern end of the valley, but what we found in the middle and south was more than enough.

Sandy Huntley standing in front of a large colorful mural celebrating Lodi wine country, downtown Lodi, Central Valley, California

Visitor Information

Amador County Wine Country: 9313 Pacific Street, Plymouth, CA 95669. Wineries are generally open daily with tasting rooms typically running 10am–5pm; hours vary by winery, so check ahead. Phone: 209-245-6992. Website: amadorwine.com. Lodi Wine Country: Lodi Wine Visitor Center, 2545 West Turner Road, Lodi, CA 95242. Open daily 10am–5pm. Phone: 209-365-0621. Website: lodiwine.com. Both wine regions are free to explore; individual wineries charge tasting fees ranging from complimentary to $20, many of which are waived with a bottle purchase.

The Central Valley

A retired old flatbed pickup truck rusting in a Central Valley field, California — a scene typical of the valley's agricultural heritage

The Central Valley is the agricultural backbone of California and one of the most productive farming regions on the planet. Orchards, vineyards, dairies, and row crops stretch as far as the eye can see in every direction. In late winter and early spring, the valley floor is lush and green from seasonal rains, and roadside stands begin filling up with the first citrus and early vegetables of the season. It’s a working landscape — not a tourist one — and that’s exactly what makes it interesting to explore.

Sacramento Area

The Huntleys' Newmar Dutch Star motorhome parked facing a lake at Laguna Del Sol resort in Wilton, California, south of Sacramento

We based ourselves south of Sacramento at Laguna Del Sol, a large resort in Wilton, California with lakefront RV sites, four pools, two hot tubs, a sauna, fitness room, game room, and restaurant. Our site faced the lake — a beautiful setting that unfortunately arrived in the middle of one of the rainiest stretches of the trip. It rained almost daily, areas around the park flooded, and the grass was covered in ducks and geese.

A Common Merganser duck at the lake at Laguna Del Sol resort in Wilton, California, south of Sacramento
A standup paddleboarder on the lake in front of the Huntleys' motorhome at Laguna Del Sol resort, Wilton, California

Jake picked up Giardia from the geese — poor dog — but it responded well to Flagyl and he bounced back quickly. The indoor pools and hot tubs at Laguna Del Sol were a lifesaver during the wet and windy weather. When the rain let up we used the resort as a base to explore the wine country to the east.

Indoor pool and spa at Laguna Del Sol resort in Wilton, California, south of Sacramento — perfect during winter rainy weather

Amador County Wine Region

Sandy Huntley outside a tasting room in the Amador County wine region, California Gold Country, Sierra Nevada foothills

Amador County wine country is nestled in the western foothills of the Sierra Nevada, in the heart of Gold Rush country. Wine was being made here during the Gold Rush era, but Prohibition in 1920 devastated the frontier wine community. It had a strong resurgence beginning in the 1960s and today produces some of California’s finest wines — particularly Zinfandel and Barbera grown on volcanic soils with decomposed granite.

Spring tulips in a vase inside a tasting room at an Amador County winery, California Sierra Nevada foothills

The region has over 3,700 acres of vines planted on rolling hills at elevations between 1,200 and 2,000 feet. Roughly 600 acres are planted with vines 65 years or older. Warm days, cool nights, volcanic Sierra soil, and decomposed granite allow growers to dry-farm some of the best Zinfandels in the state — high in alcohol, richly fruited, with complexity you simply don’t find in the better-known appellations. With over 46 wineries and minimal tasting fees, it’s an extraordinary region to explore.

A painting by a local artist displayed in an Amador County winery tasting room, California Sierra Nevada foothills

The tasting rooms here are smaller and far less ostentatious than Napa — which is a feature, not a bug. Tasting fees were minimal or nonexistent, bottles were reasonably priced, and we got to talk with owners and winemakers directly. The rolling hills and large oak trees reminded us of Paso Robles. Just beautiful country.

Wine bottles from Convergence Vineyards lined up for tasting, Amador County wine country, California
A vintage bathtub repurposed as garden art at Convergence Vineyards, Amador County wine country, California
Spring daffodils blooming in the garden at Convergence Vineyards, Amador County, California
A retired vintage tractor on display at Convergence Vineyards, Amador County wine country, California

The foodie scene in the foothills was modest but good. We had a delicious lunch at Marlene & Glen’s Dead Fly Diner — exactly the kind of hidden local gem you find when you slow down and actually explore a place.

Sandy Huntley at a booth inside Marlene and Glen's Dead Fly Diner in Amador County, California

Jackson Rancheria

The Huntleys' Newmar Dutch Star motorhome parked at the RV resort at Jackson Rancheria Casino, Amador County, California

After our patience for mud and geese ran thin at Wilton, we relocated to Jackson Rancheria, a casino resort run by the Miwuk tribe in Jackson, California. It has a very well-appointed RV park, cleaner sites, and a completely different vibe. The peacocks roaming the grounds were an unexpected and delightful bonus.

A peacock with its colorful tail feathers on the grounds of Jackson Rancheria Casino Resort, Amador County, California
A peacock strutting across the landscaped grounds of Jackson Rancheria Casino Resort in the Amador County foothills, California

We were a couple of weeks too early for the daffodil bloom, but the grounds were beautifully maintained and the peacocks provided their own entertainment.

Kirkwood Mountain Resort

Deep snow at Kirkwood Mountain Resort ski area in the Sierra Nevada above Amador County, California, shortly after a winter storm
The Huntleys' Jeep parked in deep snow at Kirkwood Mountain Resort, Sierra Nevada, California
Sandy Huntley enjoying a salad lunch and glass of wine on an outdoor deck at Kirkwood Mountain Resort, Sierra Nevada, California

Kirkwood Mountain Resort is a ski area in the Sierra Nevada above the Amador County foothills, about an hour’s drive from Jackson. They were still digging out from a recent snowstorm when we visited — deep snow and clear mountain air after days of valley rain was exactly the change of scenery we needed. The mountain scenery was spectacular and we had a refreshing lunch on an outdoor deck that felt like a genuine luxury.

Stockton

A brilliant sunset over the San Joaquin River at Stockton, Central Valley, California

From the foothills we dropped back down into the valley and stayed at a marina on the San Joaquin River in Stockton, California. Our RV site faced the river directly — an unusual and fascinating vantage point. The San Joaquin connects to the San Francisco Bay, and Stockton’s deepwater port sees regular commercial shipping traffic.

The Huntleys' Newmar Dutch Star motorhome parked at a marina facing the San Joaquin River at Stockton, Central Valley, California
A large container ship passing on the San Joaquin River directly in front of the Huntleys' motorhome at the Stockton marina, California
A large cargo ship navigating the San Joaquin River shipping channel at Stockton, Central Valley, California
A tugboat working on the San Joaquin River at Stockton, California, one of the state's major deepwater inland ports
A large bulk cargo vessel passing the Huntleys' motorhome on the San Joaquin River, Stockton, California at dusk

Each day brought container ships hauling liquid fertilizer, cement, sulfur, steel, and molasses. Watching those massive vessels slide silently past the RV at arm’s length was surreal — one of the more unexpected experiences of the whole trip.

A rowing crew team training on the San Joaquin River at Stockton, California at dawn
A sailboat gliding on the San Joaquin River at Stockton, California, with the flat Central Valley landscape behind
Competitive rowers in a shell boat training on the San Joaquin River at Stockton, California in the early morning

Between the commercial traffic, there were fishing boats, sailboats, and rowing crews out on the water every morning. The San Joaquin River at Stockton is a surprisingly active waterway.

Sandy Huntley picking up trash and debris along the bank of the San Joaquin River at Stockton, Central Valley, California

Unfortunately, there was a significant amount of trash washed up along the riverbanks — backpacks, sneakers, beer bottles, and plastic. Sandy spent time each day bagging up as much as she could. It was a reminder of how much debris flows through an unmanaged riverbank, and how much difference one person can make.

Lodi Wine Country

Sandy Huntley standing beneath the Welcome to Lodi arch at the entrance to downtown Lodi, Central Valley, California — heart of Zinfandel wine country

We were in the Lodi area twice — once while heading through, and again when we needed to replace a hot water circulation pump for the front coach heater at a service center in nearby Manteca. Both times we made the most of it. Lodi is Zinfandel country — arguably the best Zinfandel country in California — and the concentration of old vines here is extraordinary. Many of the vineyards date to the late 1800s, with some blocks over 125 years old.

Jessie’s Grove Winery

Outdoor wine barrels and vineyard at Jessie's Grove Winery, home to the oldest vines in the San Joaquin Valley, Lodi, California
Sandy Huntley with Wanda, Jessie's granddaughter, looking through historic family photo albums at Jessie's Grove Winery, Lodi, California
A historic portrait photograph of Jessie, founder of Jessie's Grove Winery, whose family has farmed in the San Joaquin Valley since 1889, Lodi, California

Jessie’s Grove was one of the most memorable stops of our entire Central Valley stay. The winery holds the oldest vines in the San Joaquin Valley, planted in 1889. What made the visit truly special was meeting Wanda — Jessie’s granddaughter — who sat with us and talked about the pioneer history of her family’s ranch and winery. She shared her magnificent historic photographs and stories of a rapidly changing California. Wanda published a book, Jessie’s Grove: One Hundred Years in the San Joaquin Valley, which chronicles the family’s journey from frontier settlers to California wine pioneers. She is an extraordinary woman and her story — and her wines — deserve to be far better known.

Colorful poster art celebrating ZinFest, Lodi's annual Zinfandel wine festival, Lodi, Central Valley, California
Artistic festival poster for ZinFest, celebrating Lodi's world-famous old-vine Zinfandel wines, Lodi, California

Lodi Zinfandels tend to be full-bodied with high alcohol — around 16% — low tannins, vibrant fruit, and wonderful fragrance. Our consistent favorite winery in Lodi is Macchia: not only are the wines delicious and distinctive, but they are very reasonably priced. Highly recommended.

A glass of red Zinfandel wine at Viaggio Estate Winery, Lodi wine country, Central Valley, California
A vintage bicycle with a wine bottle in the basket, whimsical decor at Viaggio Estate Winery, Lodi, Central Valley, California
Sandy Huntley outside Vino Del Vita winery on a wine tasting day in Lodi, Central Valley, California
Spring daffodils in bloom at a Lodi winery, Central Valley, California, a sign of the season arriving in wine country

With so many excellent wineries concentrated in a small area, we disciplined ourselves to one winery per day — the only responsible approach when you are also driving an RV.

An American flag artwork assembled from wine barrel staves on display at KlinkerBrick Winery, Lodi, Central Valley, California
Dr. Michael Huntley travel blogger and physician relaxing on a wooden bench at KlinkerBrick Winery, Lodi, Central Valley, California

KlinkerBrick Winery was a standout — very affordable, full-bodied wines we genuinely enjoyed. The name comes from a brickmaking term: when bricks are fired unevenly in a kiln, some areas get hotter than others, causing those bricks to become vitrified — harder, darker, and misshapen. They make a metallic sound when struck. Originally discarded as defective, these “klinker bricks” became essential building materials during the Great Depression when every fired brick was needed for construction.

Sandy Huntley at a restaurant table in downtown Lodi, California — the downtown area has a growing food and wine scene
A California poppy in full bloom near downtown Lodi, Central Valley, California in early spring
The mirror of a vintage freight train locomotive on display in downtown Lodi, California — a nod to the city's railroad history
Sandy Huntley enjoying lunch at a bistro in downtown Lodi, California during a wine tasting road trip through the Central Valley

Downtown Lodi has a small but growing foodie scene, with charming restaurants and cafés concentrated around the historic town center. The neighborhood has abundant Craftsman bungalows in excellent condition — we kept wondering if Lodi is the next HGTV remodel destination waiting to be discovered.

Bakersfield

An orange grove in full production near Bakersfield, Central Valley, California — the southern end of the valley's agricultural heartland

Bakersfield anchors the southern end of the Central Valley and is a hub for both agriculture and oil production — the landscape around town is dotted with pump jacks and citrus orchards in equal measure. It’s also the birthplace of the Bakersfield Sound, the twangy, stripped-down style of country music pioneered by Buck Owens and Merle Haggard in the 1950s and 60s, later carried forward by Dwight Yoakam. The sound was a direct reaction to the overproduced Nashville style of the era, and its influence runs through roots country to this day.

The Huntleys' Newmar Dutch Star motorhome parked among orange trees at Orange Grove RV Park, Bakersfield, Central Valley, California

We stayed at Orange Grove RV Park — the sites are literally in the middle of a working orange grove. The ripe oranges were free to pick during our stay, and we made fresh juice every morning with the small, seedless, intensely sweet oranges straight from the tree. It was one of the most enjoyable RV park experiences of the entire trip.

Practical Tips for the Central Valley

Visit Amador County and Lodi wine regions on separate trips if possible. Each one deserves at least two or three days to explore properly. Trying to do both in a single day visit will leave you rushing. We visited multiple times over several weeks, which is the ideal pace.

One winery per day is the right pace. Especially if you’re RV camping, the temptation to hit multiple wineries in a day needs to be resisted. Linger, talk to the winemaker, enjoy a proper tasting, and buy a few bottles. The experience is far richer and safer at this pace.

Lodi tasting rooms are excellent and relaxed. Most charge minimal or no tasting fees, bottles are very reasonably priced, and you’ll often pour with the owner or winemaker. It’s the anti-Napa experience, in the best possible way.

Jessie’s Grove is not to be missed. This is one of the most historically significant wineries in California, with vines planted in 1889. Go, taste the wine, and if Wanda is there, listen to every word she says. Her family’s story is a genuine piece of California history.

The Central Valley in winter and spring is green and beautiful. Most visitors experience the valley in summer, when it is baking hot and brown. In late winter and early spring, the fields are lush, the wildflowers are beginning, citrus is ripe, and the wine country is quietly gorgeous. It is our favorite time to visit.

The Stockton marina RV experience is genuinely unique. Watching container ships pass your motorhome at arm’s length is something you can’t replicate elsewhere. If you don’t mind an industrial working waterfront, it is a fascinating overnight stop along the San Joaquin River.

Orange Grove RV Park in Bakersfield is a hidden gem. Parking your RV in the middle of an active orange grove, picking your own breakfast citrus, is the kind of thing that makes RV travel special. Book it if you’re passing through the southern valley.

FAQ

What wine is Lodi, California known for? Lodi is most famous for Zinfandel, particularly old-vine Zinfandel grown on volcanic soil with decomposed granite. Many of Lodi’s vineyards were planted in the late 1800s, giving the wines a complexity and depth that newer vineyards simply cannot replicate. Lodi Zinfandels are typically full-bodied with high alcohol, low tannins, and abundant ripe fruit. The region also produces excellent Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Sirah, and a growing range of Spanish and Italian varieties.

What wine is Amador County known for? Amador County is best known for Zinfandel and Barbera, though the region excels with a wide range of Italian and Rhône varieties. The volcanic Sierra Nevada foothill soils and the combination of warm days and cool nights create ideal growing conditions. Wineries here tend to be small and family-owned, with a Gold Rush-era history that adds significant character to the experience.

How far is Amador County wine country from Sacramento? Amador County’s wine country — centered around Shenandoah Valley near Plymouth — is approximately 45 to 60 minutes southeast of Sacramento via Highway 16 or Highway 49. It makes an easy day trip from the Sacramento area, though an overnight stay allows for a much more relaxed and enjoyable experience.

How far is Lodi from Sacramento? Lodi is approximately 35 miles south of Sacramento, roughly a 35 to 45 minute drive via Highway 99. It is extremely easy to combine a Lodi wine tasting day with time in the Sacramento area.

What is the Bakersfield Sound? The Bakersfield Sound is a style of country music that emerged from Bakersfield, California in the 1950s and 60s, pioneered by Buck Owens and Merle Haggard. It is characterized by a raw, electric guitar-driven sound, straightforward lyrics, and a harder edge compared to the polished Nashville sound of the same era. Dwight Yoakam later revived and popularized the style in the 1980s. The Bakersfield Sound is considered one of the most influential movements in American country music history.

Is the Central Valley worth visiting as a tourist? Absolutely — particularly for wine lovers, food enthusiasts, history buffs, and RV travelers who enjoy off-the-beaten-path destinations. The Amador County and Lodi wine regions are world-class but largely undiscovered by mainstream tourism. Prices are a fraction of Napa, the welcome is warmer, and the wines are genuinely excellent. Add the agricultural scenery, the Gold Rush history in the foothills, and the quirky roadside character of Central Valley towns, and it is a very rewarding region to spend time in.

Related

Filed Under: USA, California Tagged With: Amador County, Bakersfield, California, Central Valley, Lodi, Lodi Wine Country, Modesto, Road Trip, Stockton, Wine Tasting, Zinfandel

About Michael Huntley

Travel photographer and blogger at Traveling Huntleys. Documenting adventures across the American Southwest and beyond since 2016.

Copyright © 2026 · Atmosphere Pro on Genesis Framework · WordPress · Log in

Loading Comments...