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Traveling Huntleys

Inspiring travel stories, tips, and guides from a couple exploring the world one destination at a time.

Grand Portage National Monument & Duluth, Minnesota: Fur Trade History, High Falls & Lake Superior

September 1, 2019 by Michael Huntley

Last Updated: June 22, 2026

Grand Portage sits at the very tip of Minnesota’s Arrowhead region, pressed against the Canadian border on the western shore of Lake Superior. It was once one of the most strategically important spots in North America — a crossroads where French and British fur traders, Ojibwe people, and voyageurs converged on the greatest of the Great Lakes. The scenic drive from Voyageurs National Park is curvy and beautiful, hugging the Lake Superior shoreline through dense boreal forest as you climb toward the Canadian border.

Sunset over Lake Superior at Grand Portage, Minnesota — on the shore of the largest freshwater lake in the world by surface area, photographed by Michael Huntley travel blogger

Grand Portage National Monument

Visitor Information: Grand Portage National Monument, 170 Mile Creek Rd, Grand Portage, MN 55605. Phone: (218) 475-0123. Admission: $7/person. Open: Late May through mid-October. The reconstructed fur trade post and Great Hall are staffed by interpreters in period attire. Website: nps.gov/grpo.

Beaver, otter, and fox fur pelts on display at Grand Portage National Monument, Minnesota — representing the commodities that drove the North American fur trade

The Pigeon River flows into Lake Superior just north of Grand Portage, forming part of the boundary between Minnesota and Ontario. For centuries this river was a critical artery of the North American interior — a route connecting the vast fur-bearing forests of Canada to the markets of Europe. The problem was the High Falls of the Pigeon River, an impassable 120-foot drop just miles from Lake Superior. The solution was the Grand Portage: an 8.5-mile overland trail that bypassed the falls and allowed voyageurs to carry their birchbark canoes and trade goods between the river and the lake. That trail gave this place its name, and gave the entire fur trade economy its lifeline.

Long wooden pier extending into Lake Superior at Grand Portage National Monument, Minnesota — the same waters where voyageurs launched their canoes laden with beaver pelts

By the early 1600s, French and then British merchants had recognized the enormous commercial value of North America’s beaver population. European fashion had made beaver felt hats a status symbol, and demand was insatiable. The trade expanded rapidly inland — paddled by voyageurs in birchbark canoes through thousands of miles of rivers and lakes, converging each summer at Grand Portage for the great annual rendezvous where goods and furs were exchanged.

The Great Hall interior at Grand Portage National Monument, Minnesota — a reconstructed long dining table that once seated North West Company fur traders during their annual summer rendezvous

By the late 1700s, American independence complicated Britain’s commercial interests on this side of the border. The Jay Treaty of 1794 eased tensions over trade and shipping but crucially required British withdrawal from American territory. The North West Company — the most profitable British fur trading enterprise in North America — gathered in the Great Hall here at Grand Portage and made a fateful decision: move the entire operation north into Canada. They relocated to Fort William, on the Canadian side of the Pigeon River, and Grand Portage’s era as a fur trade capital came to an end.

Sandy Huntley standing next to a reconstructed birch bark teepee at Grand Portage National Monument, Minnesota — representing traditional Ojibwe dwellings at the historic fur trading post

The Ojibwe people had been central to the fur trade from the beginning — as trappers, guides, and trading partners. In 1854 they signed a treaty with the United States establishing the Grand Portage Indian Reservation. By 1887 the treaty terms were altered to allow outside settlement, and in 1958 the site was designated a National Monument. The reconstructed Ojibwe dwellings at the monument are covered in birch bark, with cedar boughs on the floor — fragrant, practical, and a world away from the European trading post just steps away.

Reconstructed stockade buildings at Grand Portage National Monument, Minnesota — faithfully rebuilt on the original site of the North West Company fur trading post
Original birch bark canoe on display at Grand Portage National Monument, Minnesota — the primary vessel used by voyageurs to transport fur trade goods across thousands of miles of waterways
National Park Service interpreter in period 18th-century attire performing kitchen duties at the reconstructed fur trading post, Grand Portage National Monument, Minnesota — living history demonstration
Original fur trade ledger book on display at Grand Portage National Monument, Minnesota — recording the transactions of the North West Company's annual rendezvous

The original post has been faithfully reconstructed on its historic footprint. Walking the property with the NPS interpreters and volunteers dressed in period attire brought the whole story to life in a way that reading about it simply cannot. They were knowledgeable, enthusiastic, and clearly loved what they were doing — one of the better living history experiences we’ve encountered in the national park system.

High Falls of the Pigeon River

Visitor Information — Grand Portage State Park: 9393 East Highway 61, Grand Portage, MN 55605. Phone: (218) 475-2360. Admission: Minnesota State Park vehicle permit required ($7/day or $35/year). The High Falls trail is 1 mile round trip and is paved and accessible. Website: Minnesota DNR — Grand Portage State Park.

High Falls of the Pigeon River at Grand Portage State Park, Minnesota — the highest waterfall in Minnesota at 120 feet, straddling the Minnesota-Ontario border

The High Falls of the Pigeon River are the highest waterfall in Minnesota — a dramatic 120-foot drop right on the Minnesota-Ontario border. The trail to the overlook is an easy one-mile round trip from the parking area, paved and accessible, making this one of the most rewarding short hikes in the state. It’s the very obstacle that made the Grand Portage trail necessary in the first place: standing at the overlook, you can see immediately why no canoe was getting through here. The falls are spectacular in their own right, and the historical context makes them even better.

Grand Portage Lodge and Casino

Visitor Information: Grand Portage Lodge and Casino, 70 Casino Drive, Grand Portage, MN 55605. Phone: (800) 543-1384. Full-service RV park with marina. Restaurant on site. Website: grandportage.com.

Michael Huntley's Newmar Dutch Star motorhome with a sweeping view of Lake Superior at the Grand Portage Lodge and Casino RV Park, Minnesota
Lake Superior shoreline at Grand Portage, Minnesota — the world's largest freshwater lake by surface area, photographed by Michael Huntley travel blogger

We stayed at the Grand Portage Lodge and Casino RV park, which has full hookups, a marina, and genuinely stunning views of Lake Superior. The restaurant was good and the location hard to beat. There is, however, one significant caveat worth knowing: the resort heats itself using an industrial wood chipper and pellet-burning stove located immediately adjacent to the RV park. Depending on the wind direction, the smoke and noise can be relentless — day and night. It was bad enough that we cut our stay short by a day. If you go, check the wind forecast and ask which sites are farthest from the stove.

Duluth, Minnesota

Sandy Huntley riding Dino the Sinclair dinosaur at an unmanned Sinclair gas station in Duluth, Minnesota

We stopped at an unmanned Sinclair station in Duluth to fuel the rig — and with no attendant in sight, Sandy seized the moment. Dino the dinosaur has been the Sinclair mascot since 1930, a nod to the prehistoric origins of petroleum. Sandy made the most of the photo opportunity.

Michael Huntley's Newmar Dutch Star motorhome and Jeep tow vehicle at Buffalo Valley RV Park in Duluth, Minnesota
Sandy Huntley and Jake the dog enjoying a campfire at Buffalo Valley RV Park in Duluth, Minnesota
Sandy Huntley sitting by a campfire at Buffalo Valley RV Park in Duluth, Minnesota

We settled in at Buffalo Valley RV Park — a nicely laid out park with full hookups, a bar and restaurant on property, and three baseball fields. Our end site was pleasantly private. The ground, however, turned out to be exceptionally soft: when we set the motorhome’s leveling jacks, they sank straight through our wooden jack pads into the earth. A trip to Home Depot for heavier 2×8 hardwood pads went on the to-do list. In the meantime, we took the opportunity to enjoy a proper campfire — one of the simple pleasures that makes the road life worthwhile. Jake agreed.

Practical Tips

Combine the National Monument and the State Park in one day. Grand Portage National Monument and Grand Portage State Park (High Falls) are just a few miles apart and make a natural pairing. Plan two to three hours at the monument for the full living history experience, then drive up to the High Falls trailhead — the one-mile walk takes about 30 minutes and is accessible to most visitors.

Talk to the interpreters. The NPS staff and volunteers at Grand Portage National Monument are exceptional. The living history demonstrations — cooking, canoe-building, period crafts — are genuinely engaging, and the interpreters can answer detailed questions about both the fur trade era and the Ojibwe history of the site. Allow more time than you think you need.

Grand Portage Lodge RV Park smoke warning. The views of Lake Superior are outstanding, but the industrial wood burner next to the park is a real issue. Ask which sites are on the upwind side of the stove, and check wind forecasts before booking. If smoke sensitivity is a concern, consider staying in Grand Marais (about 36 miles south) and day-tripping to Grand Portage.

Soft ground at Buffalo Valley RV Park. Bring extra jack pads or a set of leveling boards — the ground can be surprisingly soft. The park’s amenities and privacy more than compensate, but come prepared for leveling challenges.

Lake Superior is cold. Even in August, Lake Superior water temperatures hover around 50–55°F. Swimming is for the brave. The views and the shoreline walks, however, are spectacular at any temperature.

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Filed Under: USA, Minnesota Tagged With: Crater Lake National Parks Oregon Sisters Oregon RV Travel, Duluth Minnesota, Grand Portage, Grand Portage National Monument, High Falls Minnesota, Lake Superior, Minnesota, Pigeon River, RV Travel

About Michael Huntley

Travel photographer and blogger at Traveling Huntleys. Documenting adventures across the American Southwest and beyond since 2016.

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