Last Updated: July 17, 2026
Grand Teton National Park is in northwestern Wyoming, just south of Yellowstone National Park, established in 1929 and covering approximately 310,000 acres of some of the most spectacular mountain scenery in North America. We hadn’t been here in over ten years, and were looking forward to reuniting with the striking Teton Range — though wildfire smoke from blazes across the West would test our patience, nearly obscuring the peaks on some days. From Thayne, Wyoming it was a two-hour drive north along the Snake River corridor.
Grand Teton National Park
The park is not just about mountains. With 310,000 acres, the lakes, rivers, and wildlife diversity are immense — and Grand Teton consistently delivers some of the best large-mammal wildlife viewing in North America. The Snake River winds through the park’s broad glacial valley, providing crucial habitat for moose, bison, black bear, and hundreds of bird species. We spent several days exploring slowly, following wildlife reports from fellow visitors and park rangers to find where the animals were most active each morning.
Near Jenny Lake, after sunset, we came across a bull moose in an open meadow. At over 100 yards away with little remaining light, we were thrilled to capture a couple of images. Bull moose in September are in the early stages of the rut — their neck muscles are swollen and their behavior is unpredictable — so we kept a respectful distance and enjoyed the sighting from the safety of the vehicle.
Near the Moose Junction entrance the following morning, we found a cow moose with a calf in better light. Moose calves stay with their mother for roughly 18 months — until she enters estrus again and drives the calf off on its own. Even though moose are abundant in both Grand Teton and Yellowstone, the highest moose populations in the lower 48 states are actually found in Maine and Idaho, not Wyoming.
In the same Moose Junction area, we spotted a black bear gorging on serviceberries — a common late-summer and fall behavior called hyperphagia, when bears consume enormous quantities of food to build fat reserves before hibernation. This bear was fully committed to the task, working through the berry-laden branches with single-minded efficiency and impressive climbing ability.
At Oxbow Bend and along the Teton Park Road we encountered more black bears. One stood up on its hind legs for a better look around — a common behavior bears use to assess their surroundings rather than a sign of aggression. The park’s abundant berry crops in September make this one of the best months of the year for black bear sightings.
Also along the Teton Park Road, a small group of bison grazed and wandered with the unhurried confidence of animals that know they have right of way. Bison were reintroduced to Grand Teton in 1948, and the park’s herd has grown to several hundred animals spread across the valley floor.
We returned to Oxbow Bend multiple times — it is one of the most reliable birding spots in the park. The oxbow is a calm, curved section of the Snake River where osprey nest in the tall pines, white pelicans rest on the sandbars, and great blue herons stalk the shallows. On clear days the Teton Range reflects in the still water; during our visit the wildfire smoke gave the scene a moody, painterly quality instead.
The fall foliage hadn’t quite peaked during our visit, but the aspens were beautiful nonetheless — pools of gold and amber against dark evergreen slopes. Rose hips glowed red along the roadsides, and the cottonwoods along the river bottoms had begun their own golden transformation. Even muted by smoke haze, the landscape had a richness that made it difficult to leave.
The drive up Signal Mountain offered sweeping views of the Jackson Hole valley despite the smoke haze — the oxbow of the Snake River spread out below, the valley floor stretching north toward Yellowstone. Mule deer were grazing near the summit road, unbothered by passing cars. Signal Mountain is one of the best viewpoints in the park and takes only about 15 minutes to drive from the valley floor.
Colter Bay Village RV Park, Grand Teton, Wyoming
Colter Bay Village RV Park is one of the few full-service RV campgrounds inside a national park, and it delivered on the basics: 50-amp service with water and sewer on large sites tucked among mature pines. What it couldn’t offer was connectivity — the trees blocked our satellite completely, Verizon signal was barely one bar, and there was no cable or WiFi. For full-timers who depend on reliable internet, plan accordingly and download everything you need before arriving. The setting more than compensates — Jackson Lake is steps away, and wildlife wanders through the campground as casually as any other part of the valley.
Jackson Lake sits directly adjacent to the campground, and the smoke haze turned the Tetons into a ghostly silhouette behind it — not the crystal alpine panorama we had hoped for, but dramatic in its own way. The lake itself covers over 25,000 acres, and even shrouded in smoke it was beautiful to sit beside in the evenings.
The Grassy Lake Reservoir drive along the Ashton-Flagg Ranch Road is a beautiful backcountry route connecting the north end of Grand Teton to Yellowstone’s southern boundary. The road is gravel but passable for most vehicles in dry conditions, and the scenery — high meadows, dense lodgepole forest, and mountain views — is a world apart from the main park roads. Worth the detour for those seeking solitude.
Along the Grassy Lake Road, Sandy paused to photograph butterflies working the late-season wildflowers — a Painted Lady and a Spring White, both common in the mountains but rewarding subjects. The Painted Lady is one of the world’s most widespread butterfly species, found on every continent except Antarctica and Australia.
Mormon Row Historic District, Grand Teton
Mormon Row is a preserved cluster of homestead buildings in the Jackson Hole valley, settled by Latter-day Saint families in the 1890s. The most photographed structure is the John Moulton Barn — a weathered, iconic wooden structure that in clear conditions would be framed by the Teton peaks rising dramatically behind it. During our visit the smoke haze nearly erased the mountains entirely. Even so, the historic character of the site and the story it tells of homesteading in a harsh mountain valley made it a worthwhile stop.
Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming
The southern section of Yellowstone is surprisingly close to Grand Teton — just a short drive along the scenic John D. Rockefeller, Jr. Memorial Parkway. We made a full day trip north into Yellowstone, the world’s first national park, covering more than 2.2 million acres across Wyoming, Montana, and Idaho. Even on a single visit, the sheer variety of geothermal features, wildlife, and landscape is staggering.
Our first stop inside Yellowstone was Moose Falls, a small but lovely waterfall near the south entrance where Crawfish Creek drops over a lava outcrop. It’s a quick, easy stop and a nice introduction to the volcanic landscape that defines the park.
A short distance further north is Lewis Falls, where the Lewis River plunges over a wide basalt ledge. It’s one of the most accessible waterfalls in Yellowstone — right off the main road — and significantly more dramatic than Moose Falls, with a broad powerful cascade that’s especially impressive in early fall.
West Thumb Geyser Basin
West Thumb Geyser Basin sits on the western shore of Yellowstone Lake and was one of the park’s earliest tourist attractions in the 1800s. The basin sits inside a small caldera formed roughly 150,000 years ago within the larger Yellowstone supervolcano, creating a remarkable concentration of hot springs, mud pots, fumaroles, and geysers right at the lake’s edge. A well-maintained boardwalk loops through the features and is accessible to all visitors.
Abyss Pool is one of the deepest hot springs in Yellowstone at over 53 feet, and its ultramarine hue is breathtaking — the color intensifies with depth as the water absorbs longer wavelengths of light. Standing at the boardwalk’s edge, the clarity and color of the water are almost otherworldly.
The diversity of features at West Thumb is remarkable — hot springs ranging from crystal-clear ultramarine to milky turquoise, mud pots bubbling gray clay slurry, fumaroles venting sulfurous steam, and runoff channels painted in brilliant oranges, yellows, and greens by thermophilic bacteria and archaea. These microscopic heat-loving organisms are responsible for the vivid colors that make Yellowstone’s geothermal areas so photogenic and scientifically significant.
Dragon’s Mouth Spring is aptly named — hot water and steam surge rhythmically from a cavern opening in the hillside, producing a deep thumping sound like the breathing of some subterranean creature. The sulfur smell is intense. It’s one of Yellowstone’s most theatrical geothermal features, and the air smells of rotten eggs that only a photographer could love.
The most remarkable wildlife moment of the entire trip came in Hayden Valley along the Yellowstone River — a massive, mature grizzly bear guarding and feeding on a freshly killed bull elk. The park ranger on scene explained that while grizzlies taking down bull elk does happen, this animal was likely exhausted by the rut or had been injured beforehand. Someone else had captured the kill on video; we arrived shortly afterward and watched the grizzly defend its cache for well over an hour. Few wildlife moments match the raw power of watching a grizzly bear at a kill site — it’s Yellowstone at its most wild and unfiltered.
Grand Teton National Park is a genuinely special place — a wild, preserved landscape of mountains, water, and wildlife that we hope to return to time and again. It’s slightly less crowded than Yellowstone, which makes wildlife encounters feel more intimate and the roads less congested. If you can, visit both — but if you can only do one, Grand Teton offers a tremendous concentration of natural wonders in a compact, accessible setting.
Visitor Information
Grand Teton National Park is located in northwestern Wyoming, accessible via US-191/89 from Jackson to the south or from Yellowstone to the north. The park is open year-round, though some roads close in winter. A 7-day vehicle pass is required for entry; America the Beautiful annual passes are accepted. Visit nps.gov/grte for current fees, road conditions, and campground reservations.
Colter Bay Village RV Park is located inside Grand Teton National Park near the north end of Jackson Lake. The park offers 50-amp service with water and sewer on large sites surrounded by mature pines. Note that satellite reception is blocked by trees, cell service is minimal (one bar Verizon at best), and there is no cable or WiFi. Book well in advance at recreation.gov. The campground is typically open May through September.
Mormon Row Historic District is located off Antelope Flats Road in the Jackson Hole valley, Grand Teton National Park. Free to visit; the historic barns and homestead structures are accessible year-round. The John Moulton Barn is approximately 2 miles north of Moose Junction — arrive early morning for the best light and to beat the crowds.
West Thumb Geyser Basin is located on the western shore of Yellowstone Lake in Yellowstone National Park. Access requires a valid Yellowstone entry pass (7-day vehicle passes available; America the Beautiful accepted). A paved boardwalk loops through the geothermal features in about 30–45 minutes. Open year-round; no additional fee beyond park entry. Visit nps.gov/yell for current conditions.
Oxbow Bend is located on the main park road between Moran Junction and Jackson Lake Junction in Grand Teton National Park. No fee or permit is required beyond park entry; a small pullout provides a wide-angle view of the oxbow. Best visited in early morning for calm water reflections and peak wildlife activity.
Practical Tips
Check wildfire smoke forecasts before you go. Late summer and fall in the northern Rockies can bring significant smoke from fires across the West, which can obscure the Teton peaks entirely on bad days. The AirNow website (airnow.gov) provides real-time air quality maps. Build extra days into your itinerary so you have a better chance of catching a clear day — the difference between a smoky and a clear day in Grand Teton is dramatic.
Oxbow Bend and Moose Junction are your best wildlife stops. Both areas reliably produce moose, black bear, osprey, white pelicans, and waterfowl. Go in the first two hours after sunrise when animals are most active. Bring binoculars and a telephoto lens; animals are often distant and the best viewing is from pullouts along the road without leaving your vehicle.
Plan your connectivity before arriving at Colter Bay. Mature trees block satellite, cell service is minimal, and there is no park WiFi. If you work remotely or depend on internet, consider Gros Ventre Campground further south, or plan to work from Jackson (about 40 miles away) during your stay. Download all maps, guides, and entertainment before you arrive.
A Yellowstone day trip from Grand Teton is very doable. The south entrance of Yellowstone is about 10 miles north of Colter Bay via the John D. Rockefeller Parkway. Budget a full day — West Thumb, Hayden Valley, Dragon’s Mouth Spring, and the drive back make for a packed but satisfying itinerary. Your America the Beautiful pass covers both parks.
September is one of the best months to visit both parks. Summer crowds thin noticeably after Labor Day, fall colors begin in the aspens and cottonwoods, and wildlife is exceptionally active — bulls are in rut, bears are in hyperphagia, and migratory birds are moving through. Temperatures are cooler and more comfortable. The main trade-off is potential wildfire smoke; check air quality reports and build flexibility into your plans.
Frequently Asked Questions
When is the best time to visit Grand Teton National Park? September is one of our favorite months — summer crowds thin, fall color is building in the aspens and cottonwoods, and wildlife is exceptionally active with bulls in rut and bears in hyperphagia. The trade-off is potential wildfire smoke from western fires; check airnow.gov before you go and build flexibility for clear days. July and August are peak season with the most predictably smoke-free weather, but also the largest crowds.
What wildlife can you see in Grand Teton National Park? Grand Teton offers some of the best large-mammal wildlife viewing in North America. Moose are commonly seen near Moose Junction, Oxbow Bend, and the willow flats. Black bears appear frequently in berry season. Bison graze the valley floor along Teton Park Road. Pronghorn inhabit the sage flats near Antelope Flats Road. Raptors — osprey, bald eagles, and great blue herons — are regulars at Oxbow Bend. Grizzly bears are less common in Grand Teton than in Yellowstone but do appear, especially in fall.
What is Oxbow Bend in Grand Teton? Oxbow Bend is a calm, curved section of the Snake River where the current slows around a wide bend, creating rich habitat for wildlife. It’s one of the most reliable birding locations in the park, with osprey nesting in the tall cottonwoods, white pelicans resting on sandbars, and moose feeding in the willows. On calm, clear mornings the Teton Range reflects beautifully in the still water — one of the most iconic scenes in the American West.
What is the West Thumb Geyser Basin? West Thumb is a remarkable concentration of hot springs, geysers, mud pots, and fumaroles on the western shore of Yellowstone Lake, formed by a small caldera within the larger Yellowstone supervolcano. Several hot springs extend directly into the lake. The paved boardwalk loop takes about 30–45 minutes and is one of the most accessible and visually stunning geothermal areas in the park — don’t miss the Abyss Pool and the colorful bacterial mats in the runoff channels.
What is Mormon Row Historic District? Mormon Row is a preserved cluster of homestead buildings in the Jackson Hole valley, settled by Latter-day Saint families in the 1890s who farmed and raised cattle here despite the harsh mountain climate. The most iconic structure is the John Moulton Barn, photographed millions of times with the Teton peaks rising behind it. The site is free to visit inside Grand Teton National Park and is located off Antelope Flats Road — arrive early morning for the best light and to avoid the crowds that gather at the barn later in the day.
