Last Updated August 1, 2026
Ho-Hum RV Park is at 1 Brown Circle, Carrabelle, FL 32322; (850) 697-3926; waterfront and near-water sites, full hookups, beach access, dog-friendly; hohum.net. Apalachicola is approximately 30 miles west of Carrabelle on US-98. St. Marks National Wildlife Refuge is at 1255 Lighthouse Rd, St. Marks, FL 32355; (850) 925-6121; open daily dawn to dusk; vehicle entry fee $5; lighthouse grounds free to walk; excellent birding, kayaking, and wildlife drive; fws.gov/refuge/st-marks.
Carrabelle is a small coastal city located in the eastern Florida Panhandle about 70 miles south of Georgia. This is our third stay. Its appeal can probably be summarized by the expression for the area, “the forgotten coast.” It’s relatively undeveloped, has a low population, and minimal commercialization. But it has just enough of the sugar white sand beaches, sights, amenities and restaurants for our needs. The beaches are not only dog friendly, but it’s rare for us to even see another person on one. We were here for a couple of weeks in mid December, so the weather was cold, overcast, and wet.
Ho-Hum RV Park, Carrabelle
We usually book a waterfront site, but they can be tight and noisy with the only view straight out the back towards the water. This time, we booked a funky end site with beach and water access. It offered broader water views, but we were under an oak tree, so when it rained, the water drops and small acorns would fall off the tree for hours afterward. It was nice to have the swings in the evening for a drink and watch the sunset, when it wasn’t raining.
There were a few wildflowers near our Airstream. These Gulf Fritillary butterflies love them.
Dolphins would come close to shore and chase fish. Jake enjoyed watching, wanting to run out into the water to see what all the commotion was about — we frequently had to call him back out of deeper water because there are sharks in the area too. He also tried chasing stingrays and caught a snake. His snake training must have worn off.
Jake loved his two or three times a day, thirty-minute walks off leash to explore. Great exercise for him. He just needed frequent baths to get the salt and sand off.
Carryout-only Korean food — a nice and delicious alternative that we didn’t expect to find out here on the forgotten coast.
Almost daily we saw a bald eagle, but because of the weather, dense trees, and them being skittish, we struggled to get a good photo of one. Red-bellied woodpeckers were in the trees every day above our Airstream.
A heron hanging out in front of the Airstream.
Carrabelle Parade of Lights
Carrabelle put on a small street fair that included a boat parade of lights followed by fireworks for the holiday season. There was quite a turnout. Over 20 boats were decked out. Sandy’s favorite was a kayak covered in lights.
It’s the holiday season and decorations were everywhere.
Alligator Point was isolated with no one else there. The beach seemed to go for miles. The shelling was amazing. We went a couple of times, but there is only so much room in the Airstream for Sandy’s future art projects.
Apalachicola, Florida
Many believe the Apalachicola oysters are the best in the United States. After having oysters around the country at many restaurants, I was extremely cautious of ever eating them again unless covered by cheese, breadcrumbs, bacon and pepper sauce, or oysters Rockefeller, to disguise their old seafood funky disgusting taste. In Apalachicola, they are so fresh that wild and raw on a saltine with a little horseradish is perfect. The oysters do well here — they grow fast, flat, and sweet because they are protected in a large bay by barrier islands fed by the nutrient-rich Apalachicola River. Our favorite oyster bar is The Station Raw Bar with a nice atmosphere, friendly people, good beer, and fair prices.
The local accent and hospitality are pure southern. There is an air of independence and freedom. Half-ton, three-quarter-ton, or one-ton trucks are the norm. Camouflage shirts are still in style and look good. Bar conversations are friendly and could be about what’s in season to hunt or fish. You are addressed as ma’am or sir. There are no crowds and no pretense. Their economy is doing just fine. We love it here.
Half Shell Dockside is also a favorite because of good food and water views. The oyster stew was amazing.
Two Brothers is also on the water and had friendly staff, but their seafood selection wasn’t as good as the other restaurants. Inexpensive dining outside with a water view is hard to beat.
Oyster City Brewing makes good IPA. These birds were consuming spent grains from the brewing process.
Apalachicola isn’t just about restaurants — there are quite a few wonderful specialty stores to shop, leaving Michael on a bench with Jake.
St. Marks National Wildlife Refuge
A nice drive out to the lighthouse with lots of birding opportunities. Along the way there were numerous hiking trails and areas to put in a kayak or canoe.
There are plenty of birding opportunities. In the past we saw a nesting bald eagle with chicks, but not this time.
So many butterflies too, but it was windy so it was difficult getting photos of them.
Florida alligators and turtles everywhere.
It’s a beautiful area that we enjoy visiting.
The best brisket we’ve had. No BBQ sauce required. The meat was incredibly tender, flavorful and moist — melted in the mouth.
Carrabelle Sunrises and Sunsets
Even though there were only a handful of partially sunny days in our two-week stay, we did have a few spectacular sunrises.
Some amazing sunsets too. Looking forward to coming back.
Good to Know
Ho-Hum RV Park
Ho-Hum is right on the water at the edge of Carrabelle — waterfront sites are available but can feel tight; the end sites with beach access give you more elbow room and broader views. Full hookups, dog-friendly beach, and a genuinely laid-back vibe. Book early for the better sites. The park is steps from the Gulf and walking distance to town. This is our third stay and we keep coming back.
Apalachicola Oysters and Restaurants
Apalachicola is about 30 miles west of Carrabelle on US-98 — an easy day trip. The oysters are legitimately extraordinary: the combination of the barrier island bay, the Apalachicola River nutrients, and the harvesting practices produces a sweet, clean oyster unlike anything from other parts of the coast. Our top picks: The Station Raw Bar for atmosphere and freshness, Half Shell Dockside for oyster stew and water views, and Oyster City Brewing for a cold IPA. Park on the main street and walk — there are also some excellent specialty shops.
St. Marks National Wildlife Refuge
About 45 miles east of Carrabelle, St. Marks NWR is one of the best birding spots on the Gulf Coast. The wildlife drive runs all the way to the historic 1830s lighthouse at the end of the peninsula — bald eagles, great blue herons, egrets, cormorants, kingfishers, and a remarkable concentration of butterflies in season. The road passes multiple freshwater impoundments with gators and turtles visible from the car. We’ve seen nesting eagles with chicks on a previous visit. Entry fee is $5 per vehicle; open dawn to dusk daily.
