Nothing fully prepares you for Petra. You’ve seen the photographs — the rose-red Treasury façade framed at the end of a narrow canyon — and you think you know what to expect. Then you walk through the Siq, the walls rising 80 meters on either side and narrowing to a whisper, and when it opens you understand immediately why this is one of the most visited archaeological sites on earth. Carved into the living rock of southern Jordan’s desert mountains by the Nabataean people over two thousand years ago, Petra is vast, impeccably strange, and genuinely moving in a way that few ancient places manage to be. We arrived from Wadi Rum by bus through the desert, and the anticipation built the entire way.
A Brief History of Petra
The area around Petra has been inhabited since around 7000 BC, but it was the Nabataeans — nomadic Arabs of remarkable engineering intelligence — who built the city into a thriving capital around the 4th century BC. Their mastery of water management in an arid desert was extraordinary: channels, dams, and cisterns carved into rock sustained a population of up to 20,000 at the city’s peak. Petra sat at the intersection of trade routes carrying spices, frankincense and myrrh between Arabia, Egypt and Syria, and the wealth that flowed through it is visible in every monument. Rome absorbed the city into the province of Arabia Petraea under Emperor Trajan in 106 AD, adding colonnaded streets and temples to the existing Nabataean fabric. Earthquakes — particularly the catastrophic event of 363 AD — combined with shifting trade routes led to Petra’s gradual decline and abandonment. It lay largely unknown to the outside world until Swiss explorer Johann Ludwig Burckhardt arrived in 1812, and was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1985. It’s sometimes called the Rose City for the color of the sandstone it’s carved from — a name that becomes completely self-evident the moment you arrive.
The Siq: Gateway to Petra
The Siq is a 0.8-mile natural fissure formed by tectonic forces splitting the sandstone millions of years ago, then smoothed over millennia by Wadi Musa flash floods into towering, colorful walls that reach 80 meters high and narrow in places to just 3 meters across. The layered rock shows extraordinary colors — deep red, ochre, lavender, cream — in horizontal bands that shift as the light changes throughout the day. Even the resident dogs seem unbothered by the grandeur; one was asleep in the middle of the path.
The Nabataeans enhanced the Siq as both a strategic caravan route and a sacred ceremonial path. Water conduits carved along both walls — still clearly visible — channeled water into the city. Small niches cut into the rock at intervals held baetyls, stone representations of the gods Dushara and al-Uzza, so that anyone entering Petra was walking through a continuous sacred procession route. The effect is still powerful today: the curving walls create a constant sense of anticipation, and around each bend the canyon shifts in color and light until, quite suddenly, you turn a corner and see it.
Al-Khazneh: The Treasury
The Treasury fills the end of the Siq like a painting hung at the end of a corridor — except it’s 40 meters tall and carved directly out of the rose-red cliff face. The shock of it after the narrow canyon is deliberate: the Nabataeans designed this entrance to maximize the impact of the reveal, and two thousand years of visitors experiencing exactly the intended effect is proof that they got it right. No photograph, however good, conveys the scale or the quality of the silence that falls over a crowd the moment they turn that last corner.
Al-Khazneh — “The Treasury” in Arabic — got its name from a 19th-century Bedouin legend claiming that the decorative stone urn atop the façade concealed the hidden treasure of an Egyptian pharaoh who had been chasing Moses. Bedouins fired bullets at the solid sandstone urn seeking the riches inside; the pockmarks are still clearly visible today. The structure is almost certainly a royal tomb from the 1st century AD, likely built for the Nabataean king Aretas IV, its elaborate Hellenistic façade blending Greek, Egyptian, and Nabataean elements into something that belongs entirely to none of them.
Monuments, Tombs & the Roman Theater
The Treasury is Petra’s most famous face, but it represents a fraction of what the city contains. Over 800 carved monuments spread across the valley — royal tombs, temples, colonnaded streets, high places of sacrifice, and an enormous Roman theater. The Urn Tomb and the Street of Facades show the full range of Nabataean funerary architecture, from modest rock-cut chambers to elaborate multi-story façades with urns, friezes and carved figures. The blend of Greco-Roman, Egyptian and Arabian influences is everywhere, often all three on a single building.
One of the more surreal sights of the day: an ancient tomb repurposed as a souvenir shop. A Nabataean king’s resting place, selling spices. Jordan doesn’t always draw a sharp line between the ancient and the commercial, and somehow it mostly works — the presence of everyday life inside these ruins gives them a vitality that velvet-roped museum spaces don’t have.
The Roman theater was carved directly into the hillside — cutting through existing rock-cut tombs in the process, their interiors left exposed along the upper tiers — and seated approximately 8,500 spectators. It’s a striking example of how thoroughly Roman urban culture was layered over the existing Nabataean city after annexation in 106 AD, with little apparent concern for what was already there.
Combining Petra with Wadi Rum, the Dead Sea, Madaba, Amman, and Aqaba into a single Jordan journey was the right call. Each place is remarkable on its own terms; together they form a complete picture of a country with more layers of history, culture, and landscape than most people realize. Petra is the high note — but the whole trip earned it.
Visitor Information
Petra Archaeological Park is located in southern Jordan near the town of Wadi Musa, approximately 240 kilometers south of Amman and 130 kilometers north of Aqaba. The main entrance gate and visitor center are at the edge of Wadi Musa; all trails and monuments begin from there. The walk from the gate to the Treasury through the Siq is approximately 1.2 kilometers each way.
Hours: Daily from 6:00 AM to 6:00 PM (summer) and 6:00 AM to 4:00 PM (winter). Arriving at opening is strongly recommended — the Siq and Treasury are dramatically less crowded in the first two hours of the day, and the morning light is better for photography.
Admission: Single-day entry costs JD 50 per person (approximately $70 USD); a two-day ticket is JD 55 and a three-day ticket JD 60. Entry is included in the Jordan Pass — at these prices, Petra alone justifies the cost of the pass. The Jordan Pass also covers the visa fee if purchased before arriving in Jordan.
Getting There: From Amman, the JETT bus to Wadi Musa takes approximately 3 hours and runs once daily; private taxis cost around JD 55–70 one way. From Aqaba, the journey is approximately 2 hours by private transfer. Many organized tours include Petra as part of a broader Jordan itinerary. There is no shortage of accommodation in Wadi Musa itself — staying overnight allows you to visit early both days on a two-day ticket.
Petra by Night: Three evenings per week (Monday, Wednesday, and Thursday), the site opens after dark for a candlelit walk through the Siq to the Treasury. The path is lined with hundreds of paper bag candles and the Treasury is lit dramatically from below. Check availability and book in advance through your hotel or at the visitor center.
Frequently Asked Questions
What exactly is Petra and who built it? Petra is a vast ancient city carved into rose-red sandstone cliffs in southern Jordan, built primarily by the Nabataeans — a nomadic Arab civilization that established a powerful trading empire around the 4th century BC. At its peak the city housed up to 20,000 people and controlled the spice and incense trade routes connecting Arabia, Egypt, and Syria. After Rome annexed it in 106 AD, the city continued to develop with additional Roman-style structures layered over the existing Nabataean foundations. It was largely abandoned after a series of earthquakes and is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the New Seven Wonders of the World.
How long does it take to visit Petra properly? A minimum of six to eight hours is needed to see the main monuments — the Siq, Treasury, Street of Facades, Roman theater, and Urn Tomb. A full day is better. A two-day visit is ideal if you want to hike to the Monastery (Al-Deir) and explore the more remote areas of the site. The two-day ticket costs only JD 5 more than the single-day entry and is well worth it.
Is the Jordan Pass worth buying for Petra? Yes — emphatically. Single-day Petra entry is JD 50, and the Jordan Pass (which includes Petra) also covers the Jordan visa fee (JD 40 for most nationalities), plus Jerash, most other major sites, and numerous smaller attractions. Even a conservative itinerary makes the pass pay for itself many times over. Buy it online before leaving home — it must be purchased before arrival to include the visa fee.
Can you go inside the Treasury? The interior of Al-Khazneh is largely inaccessible to visitors — the carved chambers are empty, having long since been cleared of any contents. The experience of Petra is primarily about the extraordinary exterior façades and the landscape rather than interior rooms. The Siq walk and the moment of first seeing the Treasury emerge at the canyon’s end is the defining experience.
What is the Monastery and is it worth the climb? Al-Deir (the Monastery) is Petra’s other great carved façade — actually larger than the Treasury at 47 meters wide and 48 meters tall — set high in the mountains about 800 rock-cut steps above the main valley. The hike takes 45–60 minutes each way and is steep, but the combination of the climb, the view from the top, and the monument itself makes it the highlight of a second day for many visitors. Donkeys are available for hire if the stairs are not an option.
What is Petra by Night and is it worth it? Three evenings per week, the site opens after dark for a candlelit walk through the Siq to the Treasury. The path is lined with paper bag lanterns and the Treasury is lit from below in warm light. It’s a quieter, more atmospheric experience than the daytime visit and takes about 90 minutes. It’s not a substitute for a daytime visit — you won’t see much beyond the Treasury — but as an addition to your Petra experience it’s genuinely memorable.
When is the best time to visit Petra? Spring (March–May) and autumn (September–November) are the most comfortable seasons — mild temperatures, manageable crowds, and good light. Summer is very hot; winter is cool and occasionally rainy but uncrowded. Whatever the season, arriving at opening (6:00 AM) is the single most important thing you can do: the Siq and Treasury in the first hour are a completely different experience from midday when tour groups arrive en masse.
Practical Tips for Visiting Petra
Go early: Petra opens at 6am and the crowds build significantly by mid-morning. Arriving at opening gives you the Siq and Treasury nearly to yourself — a completely different experience from the midday rush. The light is also better for photography in the early hours.
Allow a full day: The Treasury is only the beginning. The full archaeological site covers over 60 square kilometers. A minimum of six to eight hours is needed to see the major monuments; a two-day ticket (available at modest extra cost) is worth it if your schedule allows.
Wear serious walking shoes: The terrain is uneven stone, sand, and steep climbs. Sandals or fashion sneakers will make the day unpleasant. The hike to the Monastery (Al-Deir) — Petra’s other great façade, larger than the Treasury — involves 850 rock-cut steps and is worth every one of them if you have the time and energy.
Water and sun protection: The desert heat is intense and there is little shade once you’re past the Siq. Carry more water than you think you’ll need, wear a hat, and apply sunscreen before you enter — there’s no going back to the car once you’re inside.
Jordan Pass: Petra entry is included in the Jordan Pass, which also covers the visa fee if purchased before arrival. At peak single-entry prices, the pass pays for itself with Petra alone. Buy it online before your trip.
Petra by Night: Three nights a week (Monday, Wednesday, Thursday) the site offers a candlelit evening walk through the Siq to the Treasury. The experience is atmospheric and memorable — worth checking availability when you book.
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