Last Updated: May 2026
We timed our visit to Acadia National Park deliberately. By waiting until after Labor Day, we traded peak-season crowds for cooler air, changing foliage, and the kind of unhurried pace that lets you actually absorb a place. Between two very different campgrounds — one perched close to the wild, uncrowded Schoodic Peninsula and the other deep in the Southwest Harbor woods — we spent a full week exploring granite headlands, tidal pools, carriage roads, and the sweeping panoramic views from Cadillac Mountain.
Main Stay Cottages and RV Park
Our first base was Main Stay Cottages and RV Park in Winter Harbor, Maine. The location was excellent — solid water views, 50-amp service, 45 psi water pressure, full sewer hookup, and internet noticeably better than most of the Canadian parks we had stayed in over the previous weeks. The real appeal, though, was the proximity to Schoodic Peninsula, the quieter mainland segment of Acadia that most visitors miss entirely.
We also had exceptional neighbors. Parked next to us were Billy, Jen, and their kids from martinsgonemad.com, traveling full-time in a beautifully restored retro 40-foot bus. The interior was stunning — custom woodwork and oversized windows that framed the passing scenery like a moving gallery. We thoroughly enjoyed getting to know them and comparing notes on the full-time RV life.
Schoodic Peninsula
The Schoodic Peninsula is the only mainland section of Acadia National Park, and it is routinely underrated. At over 2,000 acres, it represents about 5% of the park — and it delivers rugged coastal scenery with far fewer visitors than the main Mount Desert Island section. A one-way loop road circles the peninsula with frequent pullouts along the rocky shore. The Schoodic addition to Acadia has a remarkable origin: an anonymous donor purchased the entire 3,200-acre tract, funded the construction of Schoodic Woods Campground and miles of gravel bike paths, and donated the whole thing to the national park in 2015. It is one of the more quietly extraordinary acts of conservation philanthropy we’ve come across.
Pickled Wrinkle
We stopped for lunch at Pickled Wrinkle, a local spot near the peninsula. A “wrinkle” — a winkle, or periwinkle — is a small sea snail that comes up as a byproduct of lobster fishing. The locals pickle it and consider it a regional specialty, something like New England’s answer to conch: briny, chewy, and decidedly an acquired taste. Sandy tried them. Once was enough.
Rain was forecast that day, so rather than retreat we leaned into the fog. The Schoodic coastline in low cloud and mist takes on a character entirely its own — granite headlands disappearing into grey, the sea a little rougher, the spruce trees dripping. It was genuinely atmospheric and made for some of the more evocative photographs of the trip.
Even with fall arriving, wildflowers were still blooming along the trail edges. The wild roses were particularly striking, and where the blooms had faded, the rose hips had swelled into dense clusters of vivid orange-red. Rich in Vitamin C and historically used in teas, jams, jellies, wines, and soups, it was gratifying to see them thriving in such abundance in the wild.
Salt Box
For dinner in Winter Harbor, we tried Salt Box, a well-regarded restaurant right on the bay. The space was open-concept with high ceilings, an exposed kitchen, and water views — comfortable without being pretentious. We had haddock, steak, and a bottle of pinot. The food was excellent, and the setting made it better still.
Smugglers Den Campground
For the Mount Desert Island portion of our Acadia visit, we moved to Smugglers Den Campground in Southwest Harbor, which has been welcoming guests since 1969. The sites were generously sized and well-separated — ours was so large it could have comfortably fit two rigs. We had 50-amp service, 45 psi water pressure, and internet fast enough for surfing and occasional streaming. The campground is heavily wooded, so satellite was not an option, but the campground’s cable service covered the gap. There was a pool, though with air temperatures in the low 60s, it had no takers.
That perk: Smugglers Den sold live lobster for $7.99 per pound and supplied everything needed — the pot, lid, fire grate, salt, and tools. We started a campfire, filled the pot, and steamed two lobsters right at our site. The result was spectacular: sweet, tender, impossibly fresh. It is hard to imagine a more quintessentially Maine evening.
There is a small irony in this. Michael’s grandparents were from Petite Roche, New Brunswick — just up the coast. His grandmother considered lobster the “cockroach of the sea.” A scavenger. Poor man’s food. She would never serve it and his father followed suit. And yet here we were, an afternoon’s drive from that same coastline, steaming the same creature over a campfire as one of the great meals of the trip. Times, and tables, change.
Acadia National Park
Acadia National Park carries one of the richer origin stories in the national park system. Samuel de Champlain sailed past the island in 1604 and named it l’Isle des Monts Déserts — Island of Barren Mountains — for the exposed granite summits he observed. A French missionary colony established itself in 1613. The island was granted to Antoine de la Mothe Cadillac by Louis XIV in 1688 before being ceded to England in 1713. The Maine Legislature created a charter in 1901 to hold land on the island in the public interest. The first parcel was donated by Mrs. Eliza Homans of Boston in 1908, and by 1914 more than 5,000 acres had been assembled.
President Woodrow Wilson established Sieur de Monts National Monument in 1916, and it became Lafayette National Park in 1919 — honoring the Marquis de Lafayette’s support of the American Revolution — before being renamed Acadia in 1929. John D. Rockefeller, Jr. financed and personally oversaw the construction of over 50 miles of carriage roads through the park, complete with 17 granite bridges and two lodges. Those roads are now among the most beloved walking and cycling trails in New England.
Wildlife
The park’s forests and wetlands were full of wildlife evidence. We found extensive beaver activity throughout — dams, ponds, dens, and trees felled with that remarkable incisor precision. Despite all the signs, we never once spotted an actual beaver. They are nothing if not elusive. Jake had better luck with a deer along the trail; he was very interested in making friends, though the deer had other plans.
Along the tidal shoreline, mussel beds carpeted the exposed rock — dense clusters of blue-black shells glistening in the low light. The intertidal zone at Acadia is remarkably rich and accessible, and it is nearly impossible to walk the coast without stopping every few minutes to examine what the tide has revealed.
Cadillac Mountain
Cadillac Mountain is the highest point on the US Atlantic seaboard north of Brazil, and from October through early March it is the first place in the contiguous United States to greet the sunrise. The summit road is paved and accessible, but nothing about the views is ordinary. Bar Harbor spread out below us in Frenchman Bay, surrounded by dark green islands and glittering water, the Porcupine Islands dotting the bay like a loose scattering of punctuation. It was among the finest panoramic views of the entire trip.
Visitor Information
Acadia National Park charges an entrance fee; the America the Beautiful annual pass covers entry. The park is open year-round, though some facilities and roads close in winter. The park’s free Island Explorer shuttle bus operates late June through Columbus Day, connecting campgrounds, trailheads, and Bar Harbor — an excellent option for avoiding the narrow mountain roads during busy periods.
Schoodic Peninsula is accessible as part of the park and is a highly recommended addition to any Acadia itinerary. Schoodic Woods Campground (NPS-operated) accepts reservations through recreation.gov. For those who want the Acadia experience with far fewer people, Schoodic is the answer.
Practical Tips for RV Travelers
Main Stay Cottages and RV Park in Winter Harbor is an excellent base for Schoodic and the quieter eastern side of Acadia. Full hookups, reliable utilities, and a friendly atmosphere — the easy access to Schoodic Peninsula makes it particularly appealing for those seeking the park experience without the crowds.
Smugglers Den Campground is the natural choice for exploring Mount Desert Island and Bar Harbor. The wooded sites offer excellent privacy and space. Satellite will not function under the tree canopy, but the campground cable is adequate. Do not miss the live lobster program — $7.99 per pound with all the equipment supplied. It is one of the better campground experiences we have had anywhere.
Acadia’s popularity means parking and road congestion can be significant at peak times. The post-Labor Day timing we chose paid real dividends: trailhead parking was easy, the carriage roads were peaceful, and the park felt generous. If your schedule allows a September visit, take it.
These are great. I love that area