Kelowna, Clearwater & Valemount, British Columbia, Canada

Last Updated: May 2026

From Jasper National Park in Alberta, we headed west over the mountains into British Columbia, making stops in Valemount and Clearwater before reaching our wine country destination of Kelowna in the Okanagan Valley.

Valemount

Address: Valemount is located on Hwy 16 in the Rocky Mountain Trench, British Columbia; Mount Robson Provincial Park Visitor Centre is 16 km west of Valemount on Hwy 16. Hours: Visitor centre open daily in summer with seasonal hours. Admission: Day use is free; camping fees vary. Phone: (250) 566-4325. Website: bcparks.ca/mount-robson-park.

Valemount is famous for being the terminus of one of the world’s longest salmon migrations. Chinook salmon begin at the mouth of the Fraser River at the Pacific Ocean and travel roughly 1,300 kilometres upstream to spawn in Swift Creek. We arrived just before the run was due — the creek was beautiful but empty of fish. Timing a salmon run to the day is ambitious even at the best of times.

Rearguard Falls

Rearguard Falls is a short, easy walk from the parking area — the very falls the Chinook must clear on their upstream journey. We watched rafters float by below and admired the berry-laden shrubs lining the trail. Salmon or not, it is a lovely stop.

Kinney Lake

The hike to Kinney Lake inside Mount Robson Provincial Park is long but almost entirely flat — about 9 kilometres return — and rewards with some of the most vivid turquoise water in the Canadian Rockies. The Robson River feeding the lake gets its extraordinary colour from glacial flour, the ultra-fine silt ground by the glacier above and carried downstream in suspension. Mount Robson itself — at 3,954 metres the highest peak in the Canadian Rockies — looms at the head of the valley, though cloud cover kept it hidden during our visit.

The trail passes through old-growth forest with very few wildflowers this late in the season — but fungi were everywhere, from delicate clusters on fallen logs to solitary caps pushing up through the damp forest floor.

iRVin’s RV Park

We stayed at iRVin’s RV Park — nothing remarkable about the park itself, but it had 50-amp service and marginal Wi-Fi. Jake found the spacious off-leash area very much to his liking.

Clearwater

Address: Wells Gray Provincial Park, 10 km north of Clearwater on Wells Gray Park Rd, Clearwater, BC V0E 1N0. Hours: Open year-round; visitor centre open daily in summer. Admission: Day use is free; camping fees vary. Phone: (250) 674-2646. Website: wellsgray.ca.

We stayed at Dutch Lake Resort and Campground in Clearwater. Our site was generously sized with 30-amp service and water but no sewer — and satellite reception was spotty. The draw is the lake itself: warm, calm water perfect for swimming, and one of the most peaceful evenings we spent on the entire trip.

Dutch Lake’s main attraction is exactly what the name promises — the lake itself, along with a well-regarded restaurant on-site.

Wells Gray Provincial Park

Wells Gray is known as the “Waterfall Park” — it has over 40 named waterfalls. Dawson Falls was a short hike to a pair of viewpoints over a broad, basalt-edged cascade that earns comparisons to a miniature Niagara. It is one of the most accessible waterfalls in the park and easy to combine with the others along the main road.

Helmcken Falls is the fourth-largest waterfall in Canada, dropping 141 metres into a bowl it has carved from volcanic rock over thousands of years. The day we visited was hazy from wildfire smoke — a reminder that August in British Columbia increasingly means smoke season — but even filtered through a hazy sky the scale of the falls is extraordinary.

Moul Falls required a 1.5-hour round-trip hike but was very much worth the effort. A trail leads directly behind the falls, putting you inside the curtain of water — one of those completely soaking, completely worth-it experiences.

Spahats Falls drops 122 metres into a dramatic volcanic canyon at the park entrance and is reached by a short walk to a fenced viewpoint. The falls are spectacular, but exercise extreme caution — the drop-off beyond the barriers is severe, and this viewpoint has seen serious accidents. Stay well back from the edge at all times.

Kelowna

Address: Kelowna is located in the Okanagan Valley on Hwy 97, British Columbia. Hours: Most wineries open daily 10 a.m.–5 p.m. in summer; hours vary by estate — call ahead. Admission: Tasting fees typically CAD $5–15 per person, often waived with a purchase. Phone: Tourism Kelowna (250) 861-1515. Website: tourismkelowna.com.

Kelowna was a revelation — mountains, lakes, and wine country all in one place. We stayed at Scenic RV Park, which is built on an active peach orchard. Full hookups with 50-amp service, good satellite reception, and reliable internet. The day we arrived the temperature hit 100°F, making early morning departures and air conditioning essential for the rest of the stay.

Okanagan Wine Trail

Our first day on the wine trail took us to Blind Tiger, Arrowleaf Cellars, and Gray Monk Estate Winery — three very different personalities on the same stretch of lakeshore road. Blind Tiger leans artistic and irreverent; Arrowleaf is classic and refined; Gray Monk is one of the oldest and most established estates in the Okanagan and rarely disappoints.

There was enough wildfire smoke in the air to limit outdoor activity, which made wine tasting the obvious choice. Grizzli Winery produces some excellent reds — their Meritage stood out as one of the best wines of the trip.

The Hatch had a free-spirited, counter-culture vibe — and their white wines were delicious. It is one of those places that makes you feel like you discovered something.

Vibrant Vine was the most unusual tasting room of the trip — funky, artistic, and entirely committed to its 3D theme. Every piece of poster art was designed in 3D, the wine labels were in 3D, and guests were handed 3D glasses in the parking lot before even reaching the door. The wines were good; the experience was unforgettable.

Saint Hubertus Estate Winery, Summerhill Pyramid Winery, and Cedar Creek Estate Winery rounded out our wine trail — all three excellent, each with its own distinct character. Saint Hubertus in particular has a beautiful estate feel with garden sculptures and classic winery aesthetics.

Carmelis Goat Cheese Artisan

Carmelis Goat Cheese Artisan was an unexpected highlight — a working goat farm producing an impressive range of artisan cheeses. We tasted our way through the selection and could not resist the goat cheese ice cream. Do not skip it.

Practical Tips for Kelowna, Clearwater & Valemount

Plan a full day for Wells Gray Provincial Park: The four main waterfalls — Helmcken, Dawson, Moul, and Spahats — are spread along a single road north of Clearwater, but each requires its own walk or hike. Moul Falls alone takes 1.5 hours return. Start early, bring water and rain gear for the Moul Falls trail (you will get wet walking behind it), and allow plenty of time for each stop.

Start Kelowna winery visits early: In August, temperatures regularly hit 35–38°C (95–100°F) by midday. Book your first tasting appointment at opening — 10 or 11 a.m. — and plan to be done by early afternoon. Many wineries have patios and picnic grounds that are only comfortable in the cooler morning hours. Most tasting rooms are air-conditioned, which helps, but the drive between them in peak heat is brutal.

Base at Scenic RV Park for the wine trail: Scenic RV is centrally located among the wineries on the east side of Okanagan Lake, with full 50-amp hookups, good internet, and the novelty of waking up in a working peach orchard. It is one of the best-positioned RV parks for Kelowna wine country exploration.

Do the Kinney Lake hike in Mount Robson Provincial Park: The out-and-back trail is about 9 kilometres and almost entirely flat — accessible for most fitness levels. The turquoise colour of Kinney Lake is extraordinary and rarely crowded compared to Banff or Jasper. Go early to secure parking and for the best chance of clear skies on Mount Robson.

Don’t miss Carmelis Goat Cheese Artisan: Most visitors to Kelowna focus on the wineries and overlook Carmelis entirely — a mistake. The cheese selection is outstanding, tasting is free (with purchases strongly encouraged), and the goat cheese ice cream is genuinely special. It pairs beautifully with a bottle from any of the nearby estates.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the Chinook salmon run at Valemount and when does it happen?

The Chinook salmon run at Swift Creek in Valemount is one of the longest inland salmon migrations in the world — roughly 1,300 kilometres from the mouth of the Fraser River at the Pacific Ocean. The salmon typically arrive in late August through September. We arrived slightly early and missed them, so timing matters. Check with the Valemount visitor centre or BC Parks for current conditions before planning your visit around the run.

Is the Kinney Lake trail suitable for families and beginners?

Yes — the Kinney Lake trail in Mount Robson Provincial Park is about 9 kilometres return with minimal elevation gain, making it one of the most accessible backcountry-feel hikes in the Canadian Rockies. The turquoise lake and old-growth forest make it worth every step. Good footwear is recommended as the trail is dirt and can be muddy after rain.

How many wineries are in the Kelowna area?

The Kelowna area within the Okanagan Valley has over 40 estate wineries, with many more across the broader Okanagan wine region. We visited nine on our trip — Blind Tiger, Arrowleaf, Gray Monk, Grizzli, The Hatch, Vibrant Vine, Saint Hubertus, Summerhill, and Cedar Creek — and still only scratched the surface. Tourism Kelowna’s website has an excellent map and self-guided wine trail itineraries.

How smoky is Kelowna in August?

August is peak wildfire season in British Columbia, and the Okanagan Valley can be significantly affected by smoke from regional fires. During our visit the smoke was heavy enough to limit outdoor photography and make the heat feel oppressive. Check BC Wildfire Service and the Air Quality Health Index before planning outdoor activities. Indoor wine tasting is a perfectly good fallback when air quality is poor.

What are the best waterfalls to see in Wells Gray Provincial Park?

The four most visited falls are Helmcken (Canada’s fourth-highest at 141 metres), Dawson (a broad Niagara-like cascade), Moul (with a unique trail behind the falls), and Spahats (a dramatic 122-metre drop into a volcanic canyon at the park entrance). If you have limited time, prioritize Helmcken for sheer scale and Moul Falls for the experience of walking behind the curtain of water.

Is Wells Gray Provincial Park worth the detour?

Absolutely. Wells Gray is one of British Columbia’s most underrated provincial parks — sometimes called the “Waterfall Park” for its over 40 named falls — and sees a fraction of the crowds of Banff or Jasper despite comparable natural beauty. If you are driving between Jasper and Kelowna, the Clearwater and Wells Gray detour via Hwy 5 adds relatively little time and a great deal of reward.