Last Updated: May 2026
From Revelstoke we headed east to Golden, BC, positioned between Yoho National Park and the Columbia Mountains. The fires that had followed us since Kelowna persisted — we could see smoke rising from burning trees on the surrounding mountainsides. Yoho, Banff, Kootenay, and Jasper National Parks all share borders; the only highway closed by fire was the one through Kootenay, which we had already driven.
Yoho National Park
Address: Hwy 1, Field, BC V0A 1G0. Hours: Park open year-round; Field Visitor Centre open daily in summer with seasonal hours. Admission: CAD $10.50 per adult per day or CAD $21.00 per vehicle per day; Parks Canada Discovery Pass accepted. Phone: (250) 343-6783. Website: pc.gc.ca/yoho.
Yoho sits on the western slope of the Canadian Rockies, wedged between Banff to the east and Kootenay to the south. The park is known for its near-vertical rock walls, exceptional hiking, and some of the most dramatic waterfalls in Canada. Despite its relatively small size, Yoho packs more concentrated spectacle per kilometre than almost anywhere in the mountain parks system.
Natural Bridge
The Natural Bridge is a short walk from the parking area near Emerald Lake — an extraordinary geological feature where the entire Kicking Horse River has carved a passage through solid rock and squeezes through a crevice barely wide enough to believe. Standing at the edge and watching all that water compress into that gap is one of those experiences that photographs genuinely cannot capture. Go see it.
Emerald Lake
Emerald Lake earns its name completely — the colour is an almost unrealistic vivid green, produced by light refracting off the glacial rock flour suspended in the water. A lovely, mostly flat loop trail circles the entire lake and is one of the most beautiful easy walks in the Canadian Rockies. The historic Emerald Lake Lodge sits at the far end, making it a natural turnaround point for a coffee or a meal.
Hamilton Falls
We took an easy 3-kilometre round-trip hike to Hamilton Falls — and were entirely alone on the trail, which got us wondering why we had not brought the bear spray. We got very noisy very quickly. Thimbleberries were beginning to ripen along the trail — similar in flavour to raspberries, high in vitamin C, and their large leaves are reportedly a natural substitute for toilet paper in the backcountry. We are taking that on faith.
Takakkaw Falls
Takakkaw Falls is the undisputed highlight of Yoho National Park. At 302 metres (991 feet) it is the second-tallest waterfall in Canada and roughly five times the height of Niagara Falls. The falls are fed by meltwater from the Daly Glacier high above, and by late summer they are thundering at full force. A short walk from the parking area brings you to the base where the mist and noise are overwhelming — in the best possible way. “Takakkaw” means “it is magnificent” in the Cree language. Accurate.
Golden, BC
Golden is a small mountain town at the confluence of the Kicking Horse and Columbia Rivers — an outdoor recreation hub with all the necessary provisions and a surprisingly good food scene. We stopped for lunch at Rockwater Grill and Bar, where Sandy had a pecan-crusted yam burger that she declared amazing, and Michael had a fried dill pickle that was also very good. The kind of unexpected lunch that makes a town worth remembering.
Golden Eco Venture Ranch
We stayed at Golden Eco Venture Ranch — a very large and private site in the trees with 30-amp power, water, a dump station, adequate satellite, and marginal Wi-Fi. The mosquitoes were aggressive enough that entering and exiting the coach required speed. Jake, unbothered by insects, enjoyed being off leash and spent his time in joyful pursuit of the numerous ground squirrels in the area — whether to catch them or simply to run, we were never entirely sure.
Fairmont Hot Springs
Address: 5225 Fairmont Creek Rd, Fairmont Hot Springs, BC V0B 1L1. Hours: Hot springs pools open daily; hours vary seasonally — check the website. Admission: Pool admission approximately CAD $13.50 adult; resort guests included. Phone: (800) 663-4979. Website: fairmonthotsprings.com.
Fairmont Hot Springs was our last stop in Canada for the year. The resort combines a full-service RV park with restaurants, a golf course, and a large commercial hot springs pool complex. Our site was on a new undeveloped section — enormous, private, and flat with 50-amp service and decent Wi-Fi. The first couple of days were still heavily smoke-affected, but the air cleared by our third day. The hot springs pool is large and family-oriented, with diving boards popular with the kids. Fun to watch from a distance; not particularly conducive to quiet soaking.
Columbia Lake Provincial Park
Columbia Lake Provincial Park sits just south of Fairmont Hot Springs and offers hiking trails along the shores of Columbia Lake — the headwaters of the Columbia River. We had the place entirely to ourselves, which meant Jake got to explore off leash. The hoodoos visible in the hills above the lake are an unexpected geological bonus — striking earth pillars that look distinctly out of place among the mountains.
Lussier Hot Springs
Lussier Hot Springs is the antidote to the commercial pools at the resort — a series of natural rock pools along the Lussier River, fed by mineral water emerging at around 43°C (110°F) and cooled naturally as it flows toward the river. The springs are non-commercial, undeveloped, and free. The pools are small and popular, so arrive early — by 9 a.m. if you want a spot. Sitting in the hot pools while the cold river rushes past a few feet away is a genuinely wonderful experience.
Practical Tips for Yoho National Park & Fairmont Hot Springs
Large RVs cannot drive to Takakkaw Falls: The road to Takakkaw Falls includes tight switchbacks that require vehicles to reverse around the corners — motorhomes and trailers over roughly 7 metres are not permitted. Drive your tow vehicle or a rental. The falls are absolutely worth the extra effort of unhitching, and the parking area is only a short walk from the base.
Arrive at Lussier Hot Springs early: The natural pools at Lussier are small, free, and well-known. By mid-morning on a clear day they can be packed. Aim to arrive by 9 a.m. for a comfortable soak. The drive from Fairmont Hot Springs to Lussier is about 25 kilometres on a paved road through the Kootenay Valley — scenic and easy.
Always carry bear spray in Yoho: Yoho has active grizzly and black bear populations, and several of the trails — including Hamilton Falls — are remote enough to feel isolated. Carry bear spray, make noise on the trail, and do not hike solo in dense forest. The bears are there; the smart ones are just quiet.
Combine Natural Bridge and Emerald Lake in one loop: Natural Bridge is located on the access road to Emerald Lake — they are less than 2 kilometres apart. Stop at Natural Bridge on the way in, do the Emerald Lake loop trail, and stop again on the way back for a different angle of the light on the river. The loop trail around Emerald Lake takes about two hours at a comfortable pace.
Golden is worth a lunch stop: Between Glacier National Park and Yoho, Golden is perfectly positioned and has an excellent restaurant scene for a small mountain town. Rockwater Grill and Bar is a solid choice. The town also has a strong whitewater kayaking and rafting culture on the Kicking Horse River if you want an afternoon activity between parks.
Frequently Asked Questions
How tall is Takakkaw Falls and how does it compare to Niagara?
Takakkaw Falls drops 302 metres (991 feet) — making it the second-tallest waterfall in Canada (after Della Falls on Vancouver Island) and approximately five times the height of Niagara Falls, which drops about 57 metres. Unlike Niagara, which is defined by its enormous volume of water, Takakkaw is defined by its extraordinary height. It is fed by the Daly Glacier and is at its most powerful in late summer when glacier melt is at its peak.
Is Yoho National Park worth visiting if you’re already going to Banff?
Yes — absolutely. Yoho is less crowded than Banff, shares the same mountain scenery, and has attractions you will not find in Banff: Takakkaw Falls, the Natural Bridge, Emerald Lake, and the Burgess Shale fossil beds (one of the most significant fossil sites in the world). The Trans-Canada Highway runs right through the park, making it easy to combine with a Banff visit in a single day. Many people drive past Yoho without stopping — which is their loss.
What is the difference between Lussier Hot Springs and Fairmont Hot Springs?
Fairmont Hot Springs is a large commercial resort with manicured pools, diving boards, restaurants, a golf course, and full RV hookups — a family resort experience. Lussier Hot Springs is a series of small, natural, undeveloped rock pools along the Lussier River, free to use, with no facilities whatsoever. Both are fed by naturally occurring mineral springs. If you want a relaxed wilderness soak, Lussier wins hands down. If you want amenities and a comfortable RV site, Fairmont is excellent.
What is the Natural Bridge in Yoho National Park?
The Natural Bridge is a geological formation where the Kicking Horse River has carved a tunnel through a solid rock outcrop, forcing the entire river through a narrow passage. Over thousands of years, the water has gradually widened and deepened the gap, and the rock arch above — the “bridge” — has become progressively thinner. Geologists expect it to eventually collapse entirely. It is a short, easy walk from the parking area on the Emerald Lake road and well worth the five-minute detour.
Can large RVs access Yoho National Park and Takakkaw Falls?
The Trans-Canada Highway through Yoho is fully accessible to large RVs and motorhomes. The park’s main attractions — Natural Bridge, Emerald Lake, and the Field visitor centre — are all reachable without restriction. However, the Takakkaw Falls access road has tight switchbacks with mandatory reversing sections, and vehicles over approximately 7 metres are prohibited. Plan to use your tow vehicle or arrive in a smaller vehicle for that specific excursion.
What are thimbleberries and where can you find them?
Thimbleberries (Rubus parviflorus) are wild berries native to western North America that ripen in late summer. They resemble a wide, flat raspberry, taste similar — tart and sweet — and are rich in vitamin C. They grow abundantly along forest trails in the Canadian Rockies, including the Hamilton Falls trail in Yoho. They are delicious fresh off the plant. The large, soft leaves of the thimbleberry are also well known in wilderness survival circles as a natural substitute for toilet paper. We have not verified this personally.
