Last Updated: July 20, 2026
Pagosa Springs sits at about 7,000 feet in the southern San Juan Mountains, tucked just north of the New Mexico border on the west side of the Continental Divide. That position gives it a milder climate than most of Colorado — over 300 sunny days per year and winters that don’t punish the way they do at higher elevations to the north. The town’s name comes from the Ute word “Pagosah,” meaning “healing waters,” a reference to the remarkable geothermal hot springs that have drawn people here for centuries. The Mother Spring in Pagosa Springs holds a Guinness World Record as the deepest geothermal hot spring aquifer on Earth, at over 1,000 feet deep. Combine that with its position as a gateway to the San Juan Mountains and Durango’s high-altitude Jeep country, and you have one of the most rewarding stops in all of southwestern Colorado.
Pagosa Springs, Colorado
Visitor Information — Pagosa Springs, Colorado: Pagosa Springs is located at approximately 7,126 feet elevation in Archuleta County, about 60 miles east of Durango on US-160. The Pagosa Springs Visitor Center is at 402 San Juan St, Pagosa Springs, CO 81147; phone (970) 264-2360; website visitpagosasprings.com. The hot springs are operated by several resorts downtown including The Springs Resort & Spa at 165 Hot Springs Blvd (thespringsresort.com) and the Overlook Hot Springs Spa at 322 Hot Springs Blvd. The Mother Spring — the world’s deepest geothermal hot spring aquifer at over 1,000 feet — sits on the banks of the San Juan River and is accessible from the resort area. Peak season runs May through October; fall is less crowded with spectacular aspen color in the surrounding mountains.
Only about 2,000 people call Pagosa Springs home year-round, but the town punches well above its weight for visitors — good restaurants, a walkable downtown, and a genuine community feel. We skipped the hot springs on this visit because of COVID precautions, which we regret. Soaking in geothermal pools with the San Juan Mountains reflected in the water is the kind of experience that deserves its own afternoon.
Chimney Rock National Monument
Chimney Rock National Monument is one of the most dramatic Ancestral Puebloan sites in the American Southwest. The two rock pinnacles — Chimney Rock and Companion Rock — served as a celestial calendar for the people who built a great house on the ridge between 1000 and 1125 CE, aligned with the northern lunar standstill. It was designated a National Monument in 2012 and is managed by the U.S. Forest Service. Guided tours are required to reach the archaeological sites at the top of the mesa. Unfortunately, it was closed for the season when we visited in late October — Chimney Rock operates only from mid-May through September. It’s firmly on the list for a return visit.
Navajo State Park
Visitor Information — Navajo State Park: Navajo State Park is located at 1526 CO-151, Arboles, CO 81121; phone (970) 883-2208; website cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/parks/navajo. The park sits on the Colorado portion of Navajo Lake, which formed when the Navajo Dam was completed in 1963 near Navajo, New Mexico, backing the San Juan River approximately 35 miles into southern Colorado. The park offers boating, fishing, hiking, and camping, and is especially spectacular during fall color season in late September and early October. Colorado State Park pass or day-use fee required.
The fall color along the San Juan River at Navajo State Park was outstanding — one of the best we saw on the entire trip. Cottonwoods and willows line the river with brilliant golds, and the water acts like a mirror, doubling the color. Despite being off the main tourist radar, it’s a gem worth going out of your way for.
Pagosa Riverside Campground
We stayed at Pagosa Riverside Campground, which had full service and decent wifi — a rarity. The sites were large and oriented to face the San Juan River, with deer grazing the willows along the bank most mornings. It’s an excellent base for exploring the Pagosa Springs area, within easy reach of Chimney Rock, the hot springs, Navajo State Park, and the surrounding San Juan National Forest.
Exploring the mountain roads around Pagosa Springs was well worth the time. Even at the tail end of fall foliage, the aspen trees were stunning — golden canopies against that impossible Colorado blue sky. These mountains reward slow driving and frequent stops.
Elk hunting season was in full swing, which limited our hiking in the San Juan National Forest — bright orange vests are required in the backcountry during season, and moving through the brush when hunters are active isn’t ideal for people or dogs. We stuck to the roads and pull-offs and still found plenty to photograph.
We watched two coyotes work a field for rodents from a respectful distance — an unhurried, absorbing spectacle. They hunted with total focus, pouncing and pausing, completely unbothered by our presence. Jake watched from the window with enormous interest.
A Canada Jay (formerly called a Gray Jay, renamed by the American Ornithological Society in 2018), a late-season blue aster, and a grouse so well-camouflaged it nearly disappeared against the forest floor. These are the sightings that reward patient, slow travel in the mountains.
Treasure Falls
Treasure Falls is a 105-foot waterfall just east of Pagosa Springs along US-160, reached by a short half-mile trail from a roadside pullout. A couple of years earlier we visited in spring and the falls were thundering — genuinely awe-inspiring. This time, in mid-October after a dry season, it was running as a thin ribbon. Still worth the short walk, but it’s a reminder that timing matters with waterfalls. Peak flow is typically April through June.
Durango, Colorado
Visitor Information — Durango, Colorado: Durango is located at 6,512 feet elevation in La Plata County, approximately 60 miles west of Pagosa Springs via US-160. The Durango Welcome Center is at 111 S Camino del Rio, Durango, CO 81301; phone (970) 247-3500; website durango.org. The Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad — a National Historic Landmark operating since 1882 — departs from 479 Main Ave; phone (970) 247-2733; tickets and schedules at durangotrain.com. Full-season service runs May through October; the train books up weeks in advance in summer. Durango’s historic Main Avenue is walkable with excellent restaurants, breweries, and galleries within blocks of the depot.
Durango was organized in 1880 to serve as a supply hub for the San Juan Mining District — a role it played for decades as ore from the surrounding mountains moved through town on the narrow gauge. Today it’s a university city and outdoor recreation capital with a lively historic downtown, excellent food and drink, and more Jeep trails than a person could explore in a season. We were last here about two years earlier; it was good to be back.
We stopped at Four Leaves Winery on Durango’s Main Avenue — they source their juice from Lodi, California, which makes for an interesting comparison with wines we’d tasted in Lodi itself. The wines were pleasant but showed the limitations of that sourcing: low tannins, low acids, low alcohol, and not much individuality between the varietals. Still an enjoyable stop in a beautiful location.
Snowstorm Peak — High-Altitude Jeeping near Durango
The Jeep road to Snowstorm Peak climbs to over 12,000 feet — well above timberline, where snow can arrive any month of the year and the landscape becomes stark, windswept, and extraordinary. The kind of terrain you only reach by 4WD, and that most visitors to Durango never see.
The views from the ridge were pure Colorado — pine valleys sweeping away below, golden aspen patches catching the light, and nothing but open sky above. Michael has always loved being at altitude above treeline in Colorado; there’s something clarifying about that scale and that thin air.
We were surprised to find orange sneezeweed (Helenium hoopesii) still blooming at over 12,000 feet in mid-October. Alpine wildflowers are remarkably resilient, and the high-elevation terrain offers surprises even late in the season.
Alpen Rose RV Park, Durango
Alpen Rose RV Park offered full service with marginal wifi — typical for the region. The park is well-positioned near the Animas River and walking distance from downtown Durango’s restaurants and shops. The cottonwoods were in full golden color, and a hot air balloon drifted over the mountains one morning — one of those unexpected moments that makes slow travel feel particularly right.
Practical Tips for Visiting Pagosa Springs & Durango
Don’t skip the hot springs. We bypassed them due to COVID, but the Pagosa Springs hot springs — anchored by the world’s deepest geothermal spring aquifer — are genuinely world-class. The Springs Resort & Spa and Overlook Hot Springs both offer soaking pools ranging from warm to very hot, with the San Juan Mountains visible from the water. An evening soak after a day of driving mountain roads is one of the best things you can do in southwestern Colorado.
Check Chimney Rock National Monument’s seasonal hours before visiting. The monument operates only from mid-May through September — we arrived in late October and found it closed. If Ancestral Puebloan archaeology interests you, plan accordingly. Guided tours are required to access the archaeological sites at the mesa top, and special events like the lunar standstill tours sell out well in advance.
Visit Navajo State Park for fall color. It’s off the main tourist circuit but consistently stunning in late September and early October, when cottonwoods and willows lining the San Juan River turn brilliant gold. The park is an easy detour off CO-151, about 17 miles south of Pagosa Springs. Good fishing and camping if you want to linger.
Visit Treasure Falls in spring for full effect. The 105-foot falls along US-160 east of Pagosa Springs are spectacular in April through June when snowmelt feeds them at peak volume. In a dry October, they’re reduced to a trickle. It’s always worth the quick half-mile walk from the parking area, but if the falls are your main goal, time your visit to spring.
Bring a 4WD vehicle for high-altitude Jeep roads near Durango. The road to Snowstorm Peak and similar trails above timberline require high-clearance 4WD. Conditions above 12,000 feet can change fast — afternoon thunderstorms in summer, early snow any time from September onward. Start early, know your vehicle’s capabilities, and carry emergency gear. Durango has Jeep rental and guided 4WD tour options if you’re arriving in a standard vehicle.
Explore Durango’s historic Main Avenue on foot. The Victorian-era downtown is compact and walkable, with excellent restaurants, craft breweries, galleries, and the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad depot at the south end. A ride on the narrow gauge — either the full day to Silverton or a shorter excursion — is one of the classic experiences in Colorado. Book well ahead in summer; the train fills up weeks in advance.
Choose your campground to match your priorities. Pagosa Riverside Campground is the better choice for Pagosa Springs: large sites facing the San Juan River, full service, decent wifi, deer on the bank most mornings. Alpen Rose RV Park in Durango is solid — well-located near downtown, full service, marginal wifi. If wifi matters, call ahead and confirm current conditions at both parks before booking.
Frequently Asked Questions About Pagosa Springs & Durango
What is Pagosa Springs, Colorado known for? Pagosa Springs is famous for its geothermal hot springs — including the Mother Spring, recognized by Guinness as the world’s deepest geothermal hot spring aquifer at over 1,000 feet deep. The town is also a gateway to the San Juan Mountains and San Juan National Forest, with world-class hiking, mountain biking, Jeep trails, and spectacular fall aspen color. Chimney Rock National Monument, a remarkable Ancestral Puebloan site, is just 26 miles west.
What is Chimney Rock National Monument? Chimney Rock National Monument is an NPS unit near Pagosa Springs protecting a dramatic Ancestral Puebloan archaeological complex built between 1000 and 1125 CE. The site is anchored by two dramatic rock spires — Chimney Rock and Companion Rock — aligned with the northern lunar standstill to serve as a celestial calendar. It was designated a National Monument in 2012 and is managed by the U.S. Forest Service. Guided tours are required; the site is open mid-May through September only.
What is Navajo State Park in Colorado? Navajo State Park sits on the Colorado portion of Navajo Lake, formed when the Navajo Dam was completed in 1963 in New Mexico. The dam backed the San Juan River about 35 miles into southern Colorado, creating the reservoir. The park offers boating, fishing, camping, and some of the best fall color in the region — cottonwoods and willows turn brilliant gold along the river arms in late September and early October.
What is Treasure Falls near Pagosa Springs? Treasure Falls is a 105-foot waterfall located on US-160 about 12 miles east of Pagosa Springs, reachable by a half-mile trail from a roadside pullout. It’s most impressive in spring when snowmelt from the surrounding peaks peaks the water volume; by mid-to-late fall, the falls are often reduced significantly. The parking area is signed from the highway and the walk is easy and family-friendly year-round.
How far is Durango from Pagosa Springs? Durango is approximately 60 miles west of Pagosa Springs via US-160 — about an hour’s drive through attractive mountain scenery. The two towns pair naturally on a southwestern Colorado itinerary. Durango is also the southern terminus of the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad and a hub for high-altitude Jeep trails in the San Juan Mountains.
What is the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad? The Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad is a historic steam-powered train that has operated continuously since 1882, covering 45 miles between Durango and Silverton through the spectacular Animas River canyon. It was designated a National Historic Landmark in 1961 and is one of the most popular tourist attractions in Colorado. The full round trip takes most of a day; shorter excursion options are also available. Tickets sell out weeks in advance in summer.
When is the best time to visit Pagosa Springs and Durango? Summer (June–August) is peak season with mild weather, full access to all trails and attractions, and the Narrow Gauge running daily. Fall (late September–mid-October) brings spectacular aspen color with smaller crowds, though Chimney Rock NM will be closed by then. Winter is quiet, with the hot springs at their most appealing in cold weather and skiing at Purgatory Resort about 25 miles north of Durango. Spring is the best time for Treasure Falls, when snowmelt brings the waterfall to full volume.
