Arizona

Sonoran Desert Life in Three Quarter Time: Tucson, Tubac & the Desert Museum

May 12, 2021 by Michael Huntley

Last Updated: May 4, 2026

So much of travel moves at a pace set by logistics — the next destination, the checkout time, the reservation that can’t be changed. The Sonoran Desert has a way of overruling all of that. You slow to three-quarter time whether you intend to or not, because the things worth seeing here don’t reveal themselves to anyone moving too fast. The cactus wren sitting three feet away on a saguaro arm. The bobcat stretched out in a patch of morning sun. The Costa’s hummingbird hovering in front of a blooming aloe, iridescent purple gorget catching the light. You have to be moving at the desert’s pace to see any of it. Continuing our spring stay at Western Way RV Resort near Tucson Mountain Park, we had two more weeks to let the desert set the tempo — with a day trip south to the artist colony at Tubac and daily visits to the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum thrown in. Jake set the pace each morning, and it was always exactly right.

Saguaro cactus and spring desert landscape in the Sonoran Desert near Tucson, Arizona

Western Way RV Resort is located on Tucson’s west side near Tucson Mountain Park, Saguaro National Park West, and the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum — check wwrvresort.com for current rates and availability. The Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum is at 2021 N. Kinney Road, Tucson, AZ 85743; open daily — check desertmuseum.org for current hours and admission. Arrive at opening time for the best wildlife activity and smallest crowds. Tubac is about 45 miles south of Tucson on I-19; the Flying Leap Vineyards tasting room is in the Tubac village center.

Western Way RV Resort

This was our third stay at Western Way, and it keeps earning its place on the return list. It is an adult-only resort on the west side of Tucson, close to Tucson Mountain Park and within easy reach of Saguaro National Park West and the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum — the exact cluster of things we want to do every time we are in Tucson. The resort has full hookups, reliable WiFi, a pool, and a hot tub. Some sites can feel a bit close if you land between two park models, but our site this visit faced west and the sunsets out the window were compensation enough for any proximity issues. The trails around the property run out into genuine desert — on any given morning walk with Jake we might encounter rattlesnakes on the path, coyotes working the washes, hawks overhead, Gambel’s quail families darting through the brush, or the occasional bobcat moving along the rock faces. It is one of those RV parks where the surrounding landscape is as much an amenity as anything on the property.

Desert surroundings and RV sites at Western Way RV Resort near Saguaro National Park West, Tucson, Arizona

Spring sunset over the Sonoran Desert viewed from Western Way RV Resort, Tucson, Arizona

Tubac, Arizona

About 45 miles south of Tucson on I-19, Tubac is one of the oldest European settlements in Arizona — established as a Spanish presidio in 1752, it predates Tucson by more than two decades. Today it is best known as an arts colony, with galleries, studios, and shops spread through a compact village center that manages to feel genuinely unhurried. Michael first visited in 1983, and while there has been development and the range of galleries and restaurants has expanded, the essential character of the place has stayed intact. We stopped at the Flying Leap Vineyards tasting room, which sources its grenache grapes from the Willcox wine country east of Tucson. Sandy was particularly taken with their habanero-infused wine — a warm, fruity grenache that builds slowly into a genuine spicy finish. Not what you expect from an Arizona wine tasting, in the best possible way.

Sandy Huntley exploring the galleries and studios of Tubac, Arizona, one of the state's oldest communities

Spring in the Desert

April and May bring the desert to peak color. Wildflower season technically peaks in March, but the cactus blooms and later-season species carry the show well into spring, and the wildlife activity that comes with all those flowers makes the desert feel almost crowded with life — even when you are the only person on the trail. Coyotes move at dawn and dusk, pausing to watch you with that characteristic mix of curiosity and calculation. We had hoped for a strong lupine and poppy year but the winter had been dry and we arrived slightly early for the peak; what we found instead was an abundance of Parry’s penstemon, aloe blooms drawing hummingbirds in numbers, desert primrose, and cactus flowers just beginning to open.

Coyote in the Sonoran Desert near Tucson, Arizona in spring — a common sight at dawn and dusk

Parry's penstemon in bloom, a tall pink-purple spike of the Sonoran Desert spring near Tucson, Arizona

Parry's penstemon flower spike in the Sonoran Desert, Tucson Mountain Park, Arizona

Aloe in bloom is one of the most reliable hummingbird attractors in the desert garden, and the plants around Western Way and Tucson Mountain Park were covered with flowers. We spent more than a few mornings sitting still with a camera waiting for hummingbirds to work the tall orange spikes — the results were worth the patience.

Hummingbird feeding on blooming aloe in the Sonoran Desert near Tucson, Arizona in spring

Hummingbird hovering at an aloe bloom in the Sonoran Desert, Tucson Mountain Park area, Arizona

Desert wildflower bloom in spring near Tucson Mountain Park, Sonoran Desert, Arizona

Cactus bloom opening in early spring in the Sonoran Desert near Tucson, Arizona

Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum

The Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum is not really a museum in any conventional sense — it is an outdoor living natural history institution spread across 98 acres of Sonoran Desert, with living plants, free-roaming wildlife, and enclosed habitats for species that can no longer survive in the wild. We have been coming here for years, and Michael has been visiting since the early 1980s. The trick is to arrive when the gates open. The animals are most active in the first two hours of morning, the light is best, and the crowds are thin. We would get there with coffee and a toasted bagel and settle in near a feeding area or flowering plant and simply wait. The desert museum rewards exactly the same patience the desert itself does — slow down, stay still, and the wildlife comes to you.

Birds

The cactus wren — Arizona’s state bird — is not remotely shy at the Desert Museum. They land on the nearest saguaro arm and regard you with complete indifference, which makes them a pleasure to photograph. The American kestrel is the smallest falcon in North America, and watching one perched on top of a saguaro with a white-winged dove somewhere nearby in its field of view captures the whole predator-prey dynamic of the desert in a single frame. Scott’s oriole, vivid yellow and black, is a spring and summer visitor to the Sonoran Desert and one of the more striking birds in the region.

Cactus wren perched on a saguaro arm at the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum, Tucson, Arizona — Arizona's state bird

American kestrel perched on top of a saguaro cactus at the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum, Tucson, Arizona

White-winged dove in the Sonoran Desert at the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum, Tucson, Arizona

Scott's oriole in vivid yellow and black plumage at the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum, Tucson, Arizona

Black vulture at the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum, Tucson, Arizona — a year-round resident of the Sonoran Desert

Gambel's quail at the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum, Tucson, Arizona — a signature bird of the Sonoran Desert

Masked bobwhite quail at the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum, Tucson — an endangered species reintroduced in southern Arizona

Coyotes

Coyotes are everywhere in the Tucson area, and the Desert Museum has both free-roaming individuals who have figured out that the museum grounds are a productive hunting territory and a fenced habitat for long-term resident coyotes that cannot be returned to the wild. The free-roamers are the more surprising encounter — we came out to the Jeep one afternoon and found one working the parking lot not ten feet away, completely unbothered. The resident coyotes in their habitat are equally comfortable with human presence and make for excellent close-range photography.

Coyote in the parking lot of the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum, Tucson, Arizona — free-roaming and completely unbothered

Resident coyote at the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum habitat enclosure, Tucson, Arizona

Coyote close-up at the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum, Tucson, Arizona

Large Mammals

Many of the Desert Museum’s larger animals are rescued individuals that cannot survive in the wild. The mountain lion in the exhibit arrived as a 15-pound orphaned cub from the San Jose, California area — now fully grown and entirely at home in the desert habitat the museum provides. The desert bighorn sheep occupy rocky terrain that closely resembles their natural range in the Sky Islands and surrounding ranges. The black bear rounds out a predator-prey community that gives a real sense of the full ecological web of the Sonoran Desert, even if the circumstances that brought each animal here were not ideal. The rock squirrels, it should be noted, are entirely wild and entirely aware that the museum grounds are an excellent place to be.

Black bear at the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum, Tucson, Arizona — a rescued animal that cannot be returned to the wild

Desert bighorn sheep at the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum, Tucson, Arizona

Rock squirrel at the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum, Tucson, Arizona — wild and very much at home on the museum grounds

Bobcats

The bobcats at the Desert Museum are always a highlight. They have a large, naturalistic habitat and on cool spring mornings they find a sunny rock and stretch out in a way that makes it impossible not to stop and watch for a while. They are not indifferent to human observers the way the coyotes are — they are simply relaxed, which is a different and more satisfying thing.

Bobcat basking in morning spring sun at the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum, Tucson, Arizona

Bobcat resting in the sun at the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum habitat, Tucson, Arizona

Hummingbirds

The Desert Museum’s hummingbird enclosure and the flowering plants throughout the grounds put on a show in spring that is difficult to match anywhere in the country. We photographed five species over our visits. Anna’s hummingbird is a year-round resident we also see at our feeder in San Diego — familiar and always beautiful. The broad-billed hummingbird, with its vivid iridescent blue-green body and red bill, is primarily a Mexican species that reaches the northern edge of its range in Arizona. The rufous is a migrant passing through northbound, feisty and orange. The Costa’s was the standout of this visit — we found a male actively defending a flowering area while a female was building a nest nearby, and watched the whole scene play out over two mornings. And then there was one more: a female hummingbird that we tentatively identified as a Lucifer hummingbird, a rare species at the very northern edge of its range in southeastern Arizona. We couldn’t be certain, but the field marks were compelling, and sometimes you take the exciting ID and move on.

Anna's hummingbird at the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum, Tucson, Arizona — also a regular visitor at feeders in San Diego

Broad-billed hummingbird with iridescent blue-green plumage and red bill at the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum, Tucson

Male Costa's hummingbird with purple gorget defending territory at the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum, Tucson, Arizona

Costa's hummingbird perched near a nesting area at the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum, Tucson, Arizona in spring

Brilliant Arizona sunset over the Sonoran Desert near Tucson, viewed from near the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum

Practical Tips

Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum timing: Arrive at opening — ideally the first 30 minutes — for the best wildlife activity and smallest crowds. By mid-morning the heat quiets the animals and the visitor numbers climb. Bring coffee and settle near a flowering plant or feeding station for 15 minutes before moving on; patience produces better encounters than covering ground quickly. Western Way RV Resort is adult-only and fills quickly in spring — book well ahead if visiting March through May. The west-facing sites offer the best sunset views. Tubac day trip: About 45 miles south of Tucson on I-19, plan 2–3 hours to walk the galleries comfortably. The Flying Leap Vineyards tasting room is a worthwhile stop; their Willcox-sourced wines are good and the habanero infusion is a genuine surprise. Tubac is free to visit; individual galleries set their own hours. Hummingbird photography: The best conditions are early morning with overcast or side light — direct midday sun blows out the iridescent colors. Sit still near a flowering aloe or penstemon and let the birds come to you rather than chasing them. Wildlife on the trails: The paths around Western Way RV Resort and Tucson Mountain Park have rattlesnakes, coyotes, and bobcats. Stay alert, keep Jake on a leash near rocky terrain, and enjoy the fact that you are walking through a genuinely wild desert.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum worth visiting? Without hesitation, yes — it is one of the finest natural history institutions in the American Southwest and one of the best wildlife photography venues in Arizona. It is not a conventional museum or a zoo in the traditional sense; it is a living, largely outdoor experience set in genuine Sonoran Desert, with resident wildlife, naturalistic habitats, and an extraordinary diversity of birds that move through freely. We have visited many times and it has never disappointed.

What is Tubac, Arizona known for? Tubac is one of Arizona’s oldest communities, established as a Spanish presidio in 1752. Today it is best known as an arts colony — a compact village of galleries, studios, and shops south of Tucson. It is unhurried and genuinely pleasant to walk, with a range of fine art, pottery, jewelry, and photography. The surrounding Santa Cruz Valley wine country makes it a natural pairing with a stop at one of the local tasting rooms.

How many hummingbird species can you see at the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum? The number varies by season, but spring visits commonly produce five or more species. The flowering plants and feeding stations throughout the grounds create ideal conditions. On our spring 2021 visits we photographed Anna’s, broad-billed, rufous, Costa’s, and a probable female Lucifer — five species in a single stay, which is exceptional by any standard.

Are there dangerous animals on the trails around Tucson Mountain Park? Yes — western diamondback rattlesnakes, Mojave rattlesnakes, coyotes, bobcats, and Gila monsters all occur in the area. Standard desert trail precautions apply: stay on marked trails, watch where you step, avoid putting hands or feet where you cannot see, and keep pets on leash near rocky terrain. The wildlife is part of what makes the area exceptional; treated with appropriate respect, it is not a reason to avoid the trails.

When is the best time to visit Tucson for wildlife and wildflowers? March through May offers the best combination of wildflowers, wildlife activity, comfortable temperatures, and long days. Spring migration brings the greatest hummingbird diversity. Summer brings intense heat and monsoon storms — spectacular for photography but demanding for hiking. Fall is underrated: temperatures drop, the desert greens up after the monsoon, and the crowds thin considerably. Winter is quiet and surprisingly beautiful, with excellent bird diversity and cool clear days.

Spring in the Sonoran Desert: Gila Bend to Tucson, Arizona

April 17, 2021 by Michael Huntley

Last Updated: May 4, 2026

Spring is the Sonoran Desert at its absolute best — wildflowers carpeting the desert floor, saguaros preparing to bloom, hummingbirds working every flowering shrub, and evenings that turn the western sky a deep molten orange behind the Tucson Mountains. We drove in from the west in April 2021, stopping overnight in Gila Bend before continuing to our favorite base camp on the west side of Tucson near Saguaro National Park West and the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum. We needed some minor repairs done on the RV — this was our third stay at Western Way RV Resort — and once the work was sorted, we spent two weeks photographing wildflowers, raptors, woodpeckers, numerous species of hummingbirds, and the kind of sunsets that make you understand why people choose to live in Tucson. Jake was entirely in his element.

Brilliant spring sunset over saguaro cactus and the Sonoran Desert near Tucson, Arizona

Gila Bend is located along I-8 in Maricopa County, about 70 miles southwest of Phoenix. The Sonoran Desert RV Park offers large sites with full hookups — check sonorandesertrvpark.com for current rates and availability. Western Way RV Resort in Tucson is on the west side of town near Tucson Mountain Park — well-positioned for Saguaro National Park West and the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum. Saguaro National Park accepts the America the Beautiful annual pass. The Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum charges a separate admission; check desertmuseum.org for current hours and pricing.

Gila Bend, Arizona

Gila Bend is a small desert crossroads community of about 1,900 people at the junction of I-8 and Highway 85 in Maricopa County. We had driven through dozens of times on various routes across the Southwest but had never stopped for an overnight stay. The Sonoran Desert RV Park had large, level sites with full hookups and decent internet — perfectly suited as a one-night waypoint before continuing east to Tucson. The surrounding desert is open BLM land with ATV trails running out in every direction, and the sunset light on the saguaros was a pleasant preview of what was coming.

Tucson, Arizona

We have been coming to Tucson for years — Michael has been visiting since the early 1980s — and it never gets old. The Sonoran Desert around Tucson is one of the most biologically diverse deserts on Earth, and in spring the combination of wildflowers, resident wildlife, migrating birds, and that extraordinary desert light makes it genuinely difficult to leave. We stayed at Western Way RV Resort on the west side of town, close to Tucson Mountain Park and within easy reach of Saguaro National Park West and the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum. The desert is uncrowded, quiet, scenic, and deeply peaceful — even summers have their moments, the intense monsoon thunderstorms building over the mountains and breaking in spectacular fashion each afternoon.

Desert Wildlife

The desert around Tucson Mountain Park rewards patience. Black vultures are year-round residents in the Tucson area, soaring on thermals above the ridgelines and occasionally landing quite close with the sort of calm, attentive stare that makes you glad you are not a carcass. They are large, deliberate birds, and when one drops off a ridge and opens those broad wings directly overhead the scale of them is striking. The Gila woodpecker is one of the signature birds of the saguaro desert: it excavates nest cavities directly into saguaro trunks, creating a hollow known as a “boot” — the cactus tissue hardens around the excavation, producing a cool, insulated chamber well-suited for raising young. Once the woodpeckers move on, the boots are used by elf owls, cactus wrens, purple martins, and a long list of other cavity-nesting species.

Black vulture perched in the Sonoran Desert near Tucson Mountain Park, Arizona

Black vulture on the desert floor near Tucson, Arizona — year-round resident of the Sonoran Desert

Gila woodpecker excavating a nest cavity boot in a saguaro cactus, Tucson Mountain Park, Arizona

Abandoned Gila woodpecker boot nest in a saguaro cactus near Tucson, Arizona — reused by elf owls and cactus wrens

Early Spring Wildflowers

Wildflower season in the Sonoran Desert typically peaks from mid-February through late March, with different species staggering their blooms across those weeks. By April the earliest bloomers are past peak but plenty remains in flower — and in a good year the desert floor is so completely covered that it barely resembles desert at all. Brittlebush was everywhere on our visit, its bright yellow flowers covering every south-facing slope. Desert and dune sunflowers were in full bloom across the open flats. Parry’s penstemon — a tall, vivid pink-purple spike — was one of the most striking sights of the trip.

Brittlebush in full yellow bloom covering the Sonoran Desert near Tucson, Arizona in early spring

Dune sunflower in bloom in the Sonoran Desert near Tucson, Arizona in spring

Desert sunflower blooming in early spring, Tucson Mountain Park, Arizona

Parry's penstemon in bloom — a tall vivid pink-purple spike of the Sonoran Desert spring, Tucson, Arizona

A few cactus were already blooming in early April — earlier than usual, reflecting a warm winter. Dune evening primrose was scattered across open sand; desert globemallow added deep orange to the palette; purple nightshade bloomed along shaded rocky slopes. We photographed more than a dozen species across our two weeks without ever covering the same ground twice.

Cactus bloom in early spring in the Sonoran Desert near Tucson, Arizona

Spring cactus flower in the Sonoran Desert, Tucson Mountain Park, Arizona

Dune evening primrose blooming in the Sonoran Desert near Tucson, Arizona in spring

Desert globemallow blooming orange in the Sonoran Desert, Tucson Mountain Park, Arizona

Purple nightshade blooming along rocky desert slopes near Tucson, Arizona in spring

Purple nightshade flower closeup, a spring wildflower of the Sonoran Desert near Tucson, Arizona

Hummingbirds

With all the wildflowers in bloom, hummingbirds were everywhere. We photographed four species during our stay. The broad-billed hummingbird — iridescent blue-green throat, bright red bill — is a Sonoran Desert specialty. Anna’s hummingbird is a year-round resident whose rose-red gorget flashes almost supernaturally in direct sun. The smaller Costa’s hummingbird has a distinctive purple crown and elongated throat feathers that flare outward in display. The rufous hummingbird is a migrant passing through northbound in spring, vivid orange-rufous and famous for being aggressively territorial for a bird that size — it will drive off hummingbirds considerably larger than itself. Tucson in spring is exceptional hummingbird country, and the diversity of flowering desert plants creates natural staging areas where multiple species can be photographed without waiting long.

Broad-billed hummingbird with iridescent blue-green throat and red bill, Tucson, Arizona in spring

Anna's hummingbird with rose-red gorget, a year-round resident of the Sonoran Desert near Tucson, Arizona

Desert Sunsets

Tucson sunsets are reliably spectacular, and spring brings a particular quality of light — warm, low-angle, and when there are clouds on the western horizon the colors can be extraordinary. The Tucson Mountains amplify everything: saguaro silhouettes against an orange-pink sky are one of those images that photograph well but still somehow undersell the real thing. We walked out into the desert most evenings with Jake, who appreciated the cool night air as much as we appreciated the light. April temperatures drop quickly after sunset, and with daytime highs in the 60s there was no concern about rattlesnakes underfoot after dark.

Spring sunset over saguaro cactus and the Sonoran Desert near Tucson, Arizona

Vivid orange and pink spring sunset sky over the Tucson Mountains and Sonoran Desert, Arizona

Practical Tips

Best time for wildflowers near Tucson: Peak bloom runs mid-February through late March; timing varies with winter rainfall. April still offers good viewing for cactus blooms, penstemon, globemallow, and other later-season species. The Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum and the Arizona Native Plant Society both post current bloom conditions during the season. Western Way RV Resort on Tucson’s west side is ideally positioned for Saguaro National Park West, Tucson Mountain Park, and the Desert Museum — sites fill quickly in spring, so book well ahead. Hummingbirds: Greatest diversity from March through September; spring migration brings the widest variety of species. The Desert Museum’s hummingbird area is excellent for photography with multiple species in close proximity. Wildlife photography timing: The first two hours after sunrise are consistently the most productive — birds are most active, light is best, and temperatures are comfortable before the desert heats up. Gila Bend as a stopover: The Sonoran Desert RV Park is a convenient overnight stop between the Phoenix area and Tucson, with large full-hookup sites and open BLM land immediately adjacent for walking.

Frequently Asked Questions

When is the best time to see wildflowers in the Sonoran Desert near Tucson? Peak bloom is typically mid-February through late March, depending heavily on winter rainfall. A wet winter produces a spectacular display across the desert floor; a dry winter significantly reduces it. April still offers cactus blooms and later-season wildflowers, particularly at slightly higher elevations in the Tucson Mountains. The Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum and the Arizona Native Plant Society publish current bloom updates during the season.

What hummingbird species can you see in Tucson in spring? Tucson is one of the finest hummingbird destinations in North America. Year-round residents include Anna’s and broad-billed hummingbirds. Spring brings Costa’s, rufous, and black-chinned hummingbirds, among others. The rufous hummingbird — despite being one of the smallest species — is notably aggressive and will defend a flower patch against birds twice its size. By summer, species diversity in Tucson and the nearby Sky Islands increases even further.

Is the America the Beautiful pass accepted at Saguaro National Park? Yes. Both Saguaro National Park West (Tucson Mountain District) and Saguaro National Park East (Rincon Mountain District) accept the America the Beautiful annual pass. The Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum is a separate, privately operated nonprofit institution with its own admission fee and is not covered by the pass.

What is a saguaro boot? A saguaro boot is a nest cavity excavated by a Gila woodpecker or gilded flicker directly into the flesh of a saguaro cactus. The cactus responds by hardening the surrounding tissue, creating an insulated chamber ideal for nesting. Once the woodpecker abandons it, the boot is used by elf owls, cactus wrens, purple martins, and other cavity-nesting species. If you find a fallen saguaro with a boot-shaped hollow inside, that is what you are looking at.

Are rattlesnakes a concern when hiking in Tucson Mountain Park? Western diamondback and Mojave rattlesnakes both occur in the area and are most active from late spring through early fall. In April, cool evenings significantly reduce snake activity. Standard desert hiking precautions apply year-round: stay on trails, watch where you step, and never put hands or feet where you cannot see. We walked the desert after sunset regularly during our April visit without concern.

Page, Arizona & Glen Canyon NRA: Lake Powell, Marble Canyon & the Toadstool Hoodoos

January 2, 2021 by Michael Huntley

Last Updated: May 4, 2026

We had been to Page before — in April 2018 we explored Antelope Canyon, Lake Powell, and Horseshoe Bend on a spring trip through the Southwest. This January 2021 visit was different in almost every way: it was winter, the Navajo Nation had closed all tourist activities because of COVID — no Antelope Canyon, no Horseshoe Bend tours, no guided slot canyon access — and we arrived coming south from Goulding’s Lodge and Monument Valley. What we found was Page in its quietest form: nearly empty roads, a half-occupied RV park with unobstructed views of Lake Powell, and the freedom to explore Marble Canyon, Lee’s Ferry, and the Toadstool Hoodoos in Grand Staircase-Escalante with almost no one else around. Jake loved every minute of it.

Lake Powell and sandstone canyon walls seen from the rim near Page, Arizona, Glen Canyon NRA

Page, Arizona is located in the northwest corner of the state near the Utah border, within Glen Canyon National Recreation Area. Wahweap RV Park and Marina is managed by Aramark at the southern end of Lake Powell — check lakepowell.com for current rates and reservations. Glen Canyon NRA day use is covered by the America the Beautiful annual pass; overnight RV fees are separate. Antelope Canyon tours are operated by Navajo Nation-licensed guides only — check availability at navajonationparks.org. Lee’s Ferry and the Toadstool Hoodoos trailhead are both within easy driving distance of Page and free to access.

Page, Arizona & Lake Powell

Page was built in 1957 as a construction camp for workers building Glen Canyon Dam, which was completed in 1966 and created Lake Powell behind it. The reservoir fills 186 miles of the canyon that once carried the Colorado River through some of the most remote country in the Southwest — a landscape now submerged, beautiful in its own right, and deeply controversial. In high-water years, Lake Powell stretches into dozens of side canyons, creating a labyrinth of turquoise water and orange sandstone. In January 2021, with COVID keeping visitors away, the town felt almost entirely to ourselves.

Sandstone canyon walls and blue water of Lake Powell, Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, Page, Arizona

Wahweap RV Park

Wahweap RV Park sits on a point above Wahweap Bay at the southern end of Lake Powell, with open water and canyon walls visible from most sites. Full hookup sites, a marina with boat rentals, a restaurant, and a small store are all on-site. In normal seasons it fills quickly, particularly in summer when the lake is busy with boaters; in January 2021 the park was running at maybe ten to twenty percent capacity. We had full service, workable internet, and an almost unobstructed view of the lake. Jake had the walking paths essentially to himself.

Jake Huntley the Great Dane Lab mix exploring the paths at Wahweap RV Park, Page, Arizona

Lake Powell shoreline and canyon walls from Wahweap, Page, Arizona, Glen Canyon NRA

Sandstone formations and blue water at Lake Powell, Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, Arizona

On our 2018 visit we rented a boat and spent a day exploring the side canyons — one of the better days of that whole trip. This time the water was calm and empty, and we were content to walk the shore and watch the light change on the canyon walls.

The New Wave

Just outside Wahweap Marina, on BLM land accessible without a permit or fee, a sandstone formation known as The New Wave sits a short walk from a roadside pullout. The swirling, layered rock was sculpted by wind and water over millions of years into a series of undulating ridges that curve and fold in on themselves — vivid orange, cream, and pink banding through the stone. It is one of Page’s less-visited highlights, easy to reach and entirely free.

Lone Rock

About four miles north of Wahweap on US 89 into Utah, Lone Rock rises from the edge of Lake Powell — a single sandstone monolith standing at the water’s edge at Lone Rock Beach. The beach is one of the rare spots at Lake Powell where dispersed camping is permitted right at the waterline, and in summer it becomes a crowded collection of boats, ATVs, and tents. In January it was deserted and perfectly quiet.

Marble Canyon & Lee’s Ferry

About 25 miles south of Page on US 89A, the highway crosses Navajo Bridge and enters Marble Canyon — the uppermost stretch of the Grand Canyon, carved by the Colorado River through cream-colored Kaibab Limestone. Despite the name, there is no marble; the limestone simply polishes smooth and pale. The walls rise hundreds of feet on both sides of the river and the scale is staggering. This section of canyon is not as well known as the Grand Canyon proper, but the drive along the rim above it is one of the better drives in northern Arizona.

Marble Canyon carved by the Colorado River through Kaibab Limestone, northern Arizona

California Condors

Marble Canyon is one of the premier locations in North America to see California Condors in the wild. The area supports around 100 birds — a significant portion of the total wild population, which was brought back from the brink of extinction through a captive breeding program that began in the late 1980s. Condors are the largest flying land birds in North America, with a wingspan up to nine and a half feet and a weight of up to 23 pounds. They feed exclusively on carrion and can soar hundreds of miles a day on thermals with barely a wingbeat. Watching one drop off the canyon rim and open those enormous wings is something you don’t forget quickly. We saw several circling the canyon walls and managed to get reasonably close.

California Condor on the rim at Marble Canyon, Arizona — rescued from extinction through captive breeding programs

Lee’s Ferry

A few miles south of Marble Canyon, the road drops to the Colorado River at Lee’s Ferry — the only point along a 750-mile stretch of the river accessible by road, and the historic crossing that gave the area its name. John D. Lee established the ferry in 1872 after fleeing south following the Mountain Meadows Massacre. He was eventually captured, tried, and executed at the massacre site in 1877. The ferry continued operating until 1928, when Navajo Bridge was completed upstream. Today Lee’s Ferry is the put-in point for every Grand Canyon river rafting trip — nearly all multi-day rafting expeditions through the Grand Canyon begin here. The historic Lonely Dell Ranch is also on site, a preserved homestead that gives a clear picture of what isolated, self-sufficient life looked like for the families who ran the crossing. Some day we will book that Grand Canyon rafting trip.

Colorado River at Lee's Ferry, gateway to the Grand Canyon river corridor, Glen Canyon NRA, Arizona

Colorful canyon walls and the Colorado River at Lee's Ferry, Glen Canyon NRA, Arizona

Sandy Huntley along the Colorado River at Lee's Ferry, put-in for Grand Canyon rafting trips, Arizona

The Lonely Dell Ranch historic homestead at Lee's Ferry, Glen Canyon NRA, Arizona

Colorado River canyon walls at Lee's Ferry, the historic put-in for Grand Canyon rafting, Glen Canyon NRA

Toadstool Hoodoos, Utah

About 20 miles north of Page on US 89, just across the Utah border, a short dirt road leads to the Toadstool Hoodoos trailhead in Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. The trail is an easy 1.5-mile round trip across open desert to a collection of hoodoos — balanced rock formations where a harder caprock of Dakota Sandstone sits atop softer Entrada Sandstone pedestals. Wind and water erode the softer base far faster than the cap, creating the characteristic mushroom or toadstool shape. No fee, no permit required, and in January 2021 we had the entire trail to ourselves. Jake was off leash for the first part before another group arrived.

Sandy Huntley approaching the Toadstool Hoodoos in Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, Utah

Sandy Huntley among the Toadstool Hoodoos, Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, Utah

Jake Huntley the Great Dane Lab mix exploring the Toadstool Hoodoos trail, Grand Staircase-Escalante NM, Utah

Toadstool Hoodoo balanced rock formation in Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, Utah

Balanced rock hoodoos formed by erosion of Entrada Sandstone, Grand Staircase-Escalante NM, Utah

Sunset over Lake Powell and the canyon country from Page, Arizona

Practical Tips

Wahweap RV Park reservations: Essential in summer — the park fills months in advance during peak boating season. Winter is much more relaxed with lower rates. Full hookup sites with lake views are available; the Glen Canyon NRA entrance is covered by the America the Beautiful annual pass but the RV park charges a separate overnight fee. Check lakepowell.com for current rates. Antelope Canyon and Horseshoe Bend: Both were closed during our COVID-era January 2021 visit but are typically open year-round. Antelope Canyon requires a licensed Navajo guide — you cannot enter independently. Lower and Upper Antelope Canyon are run by separate operators; book well in advance in spring and fall. Horseshoe Bend has a short walk from a paid parking area on US 89 south of Page. California Condors at Marble Canyon: The Navajo Bridge area is one of the most reliable condor-watching locations in the country — arrive in the morning when birds are most active and scan the canyon rim. Lee’s Ferry: No day-use fee; world-class trout fishing below Glen Canyon Dam requires a fishing license. The Lonely Dell Ranch historic site is a short walk from the parking area. Toadstool Hoodoos: No fee or permit. The trailhead is off US 89 approximately 20 miles north of Page in Utah. The 1.5-mile round trip is flat and easy, suitable for all fitness levels and leashed dogs. The dirt access road is usually passable for standard passenger vehicles.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is the America the Beautiful pass accepted at Lake Powell? Yes. Glen Canyon National Recreation Area — which includes the Wahweap area, Lake Powell day use, Lee’s Ferry, and surrounding lands — accepts the America the Beautiful annual pass. The Wahweap RV campground charges a separate fee for overnight stays.

Can you visit Antelope Canyon without a tour guide? No. Both Upper and Lower Antelope Canyon are on Navajo Nation land and require a licensed Navajo guide — independent access is not permitted. Tours book up quickly in spring and summer. The Navajo Nation occasionally closes these areas, as happened during our January 2021 COVID-era visit.

What is the best time of year to visit Page, Arizona? Spring and fall offer the most comfortable temperatures and the best light for photography. Summer is extremely hot — temperatures regularly exceed 100°F — but the lake is at its most active with boaters. Winter is quiet and uncrowded; most attractions remain open at reduced capacity, and the canyon light in January is exceptional for photography.

Is the Toadstool Hoodoos hike suitable for dogs? Yes. It is an easy, flat trail on open BLM and National Monument land with no technical sections. Dogs must be on leash. We took Jake and he made excellent use of the extra space to roam among the formations.

Where do Grand Canyon river rafting trips launch from? All commercial and permit-based multi-day whitewater rafting trips through the Grand Canyon begin at Lee’s Ferry, about 25 miles south of Page on US 89A. The launch beach is open to visitors whether or not you are joining a trip — and if you have ever wanted to raft the Grand Canyon, this is where it starts.

Ajo & Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument, Arizona

June 7, 2020 by Michael Huntley

Last Updated: May 2026 | Originally published June 2020

Ajo sits at the western edge of the Tohono O’odham Nation, about 40 miles north of the Mexican border and roughly 2.5 hours from Tucson. It’s one of the closest towns to Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument, and in late May 2020 it was one of the few places in southern Arizona with an available RV spot — most parks in the area were full, partly because of workers constructing the border wall nearby.

The name has two competing explanations. In Spanish, ajo means garlic — and some early Spanish explorers apparently found wild garlic growing in the area. But the Tohono O’odham people have a similar-sounding word, o’oho, meaning paint: they obtained red pigment from mineral deposits in this region for centuries before any Spanish explorer arrived. Take your pick.

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Saguaro National Park, Tucson: Spring Bloom & Desert Wildlife in a Quiet May

May 24, 2020 by Michael Huntley

Last Updated: May 2026 | Originally published May 2020

Tucson in late May 2020 was different. COVID-19 had shuttered the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum, closed Western Way’s pool and clubhouse, and pushed most snowbirds north weeks earlier than usual. The campground was nearly empty. But the Sonoran Desert didn’t get the memo — it was putting on one of the most spectacular bloom seasons we’ve seen in years, and we had it almost entirely to ourselves.

The catch: it was running about 20 degrees hotter than normal. We’d timed the trip for the saguaro bloom, which typically peaks in late April to early May when highs hover in the low 80s. Instead, we got 100°F every afternoon. Early mornings cooled into the 60s, which made dawn walks and hikes genuinely pleasant — we just had to be done before 9 a.m.

Saguaro cactus in bloom, Tucson, Arizona

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Willcox, Arizona: Wine Country, Fort Bowie & the Chiricahua Mountains

May 19, 2020 by Michael Huntley

Last Updated: May 2026

Willcox sits in the Sulphur Springs Valley at 4,167 feet — cooler and wetter than the desert floor at Tucson or Phoenix, and surrounded by some of the most historically significant and visually dramatic country in southeastern Arizona. We’ve stopped here twice, drawn first by the wine country and again in spring 2020 when we needed a low-key base after a long drive from Elephant Butte, New Mexico. The wineries were closed on that 2020 visit — COVID stay-at-home orders were in effect — but the backcountry around Willcox was very much open, and we spent a week exploring Chiricahua National Monument’s back roads, the Fort Bowie National Historic Site, and the remote Leslie Canyon National Wildlife Refuge. The area more than earned its place on our return list.

Sulphur Springs Valley and open desert landscape around Willcox, Arizona at 4,167 feet elevation in Cochise County

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